Discussion
Finally got around to flaring the last of the brake pipes up yesterday, the ones that have been pointing straight up from the chassis since Justin helped us with the rest of the system on Easter day, 2002! Quite where the last year has gone I have no idea!
Once we'd got them all secured up, we put the new Automec silicone fluid in, and bled them using an eezi-bleed pressure system, and we were done within 10 mins or so.
The question is, when the engine is running (which is a story for another day, watch the web site!), and the car is moving, it takes a lot of pressue for the car to even start to brake, and my foot had to go right down before I felt any pressure.
I think the servo is ok, as if the engine is off I can pump the brake and it'll firm up, then when starting the engine, it'll go down, but can't figure out how to make the brake kick in earlier.
Any suggestions welcome!
Cheers, Tony
Once we'd got them all secured up, we put the new Automec silicone fluid in, and bled them using an eezi-bleed pressure system, and we were done within 10 mins or so.
The question is, when the engine is running (which is a story for another day, watch the web site!), and the car is moving, it takes a lot of pressue for the car to even start to brake, and my foot had to go right down before I felt any pressure.
I think the servo is ok, as if the engine is off I can pump the brake and it'll firm up, then when starting the engine, it'll go down, but can't figure out how to make the brake kick in earlier.
Any suggestions welcome!
Cheers, Tony
I recently used one of those one man brake bleeders on my 2500m. It didn't work worth a damn so I went back to the tried and true method of pumping the brake pedal until all air was out of the system, then tightened up on the bleeder valve. It worked like a charm and the brakes stop the car better than ever. I can't say why the ezbleeder didn't get the job done as it has worked on my other cars, but there it is. Good luck!
zefarelly said: I think it may be something to do with the servo.
Ive had problems with the vixen pedal being low. it seems ok now now Ive adjusted the rear shoes up a bit more
Thats an interesting point actually, as if the shoes are a long way from connecting with the drums, it'll need more travel on the pedal. We do have an issue with the handbrake as it happens, in that it needs to be pulled almost vertical to be able to hold the car on the slightly sloping driveway.
That seems like the plan then, re-bleed the brakes manually, and then adjust the rear shoes. Whats the deal with the shoes, do them up so they connect, then back them off a little so they almost touch, but not quite?
Thanks for that!
Tony
from this weeks brake fiddling . . . . .
the rear adjusters on the vixen are manual, like mini brakes thayre shyte, Ive wound mine up a bit so theyre just binding a nats cocks worth!, the pedals higher, but still not that high, the front end is all new, I bled them through with the hand brake on (what it says in the manual) backs first then fronts
Im still not impressed, I think braided hoses, and removing the servo is the way to get the best feel to them, I dont think you need the servo with a vixen, its lighter than a cortina and the same power output, and that stopped on a sixpence when I did the same rebuild with braided hoses.
they work though, I did a masive skid to check, just outside my local, made a few people jump
the rear adjusters on the vixen are manual, like mini brakes thayre shyte, Ive wound mine up a bit so theyre just binding a nats cocks worth!, the pedals higher, but still not that high, the front end is all new, I bled them through with the hand brake on (what it says in the manual) backs first then fronts
Im still not impressed, I think braided hoses, and removing the servo is the way to get the best feel to them, I dont think you need the servo with a vixen, its lighter than a cortina and the same power output, and that stopped on a sixpence when I did the same rebuild with braided hoses.
they work though, I did a masive skid to check, just outside my local, made a few people jump
From last nights brake fiddling....:
Decided that the adjusters were the way to go first, so wound them up so they bound, then backed off a little bit, so the shoes still hit occasionally, but the drums move with a bit of pressure.
Then attached the pressure bleed system and bled the system starting from the furthest from the reservoir, and moving to the closest, but with the addition of pressing the pedal down while the nipple was released and tightening it back up while fully depressed - a surprising amount of air came out, but we cycled it through a number of times, and it seems to be clear now.
We obviously can't pick up too much speed on the driveway (unfortunately!), but it does stop a lot better now, and the handbrake stops within about 6 clicks instead of being vertical.
Just hope things are up to the job when out on the road now!
Cheers, Tony
Decided that the adjusters were the way to go first, so wound them up so they bound, then backed off a little bit, so the shoes still hit occasionally, but the drums move with a bit of pressure.
Then attached the pressure bleed system and bled the system starting from the furthest from the reservoir, and moving to the closest, but with the addition of pressing the pedal down while the nipple was released and tightening it back up while fully depressed - a surprising amount of air came out, but we cycled it through a number of times, and it seems to be clear now.
We obviously can't pick up too much speed on the driveway (unfortunately!), but it does stop a lot better now, and the handbrake stops within about 6 clicks instead of being vertical.
Just hope things are up to the job when out on the road now!
Cheers, Tony
zefarelly said: aahhhh . . .Ive got my handbrake down to two or three clicks!
beat that
hope your test runs good
HOW?! We've got new shoes and original slightly uneven drums, so I reckon thats making a bit of difference - will have to head underneath and adjust the slack in the cables now! Tony
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