temperature sensor - TVR 1600M
Discussion
finally bought a sender from steve.
but gauge does not read correctly, imo.
to summarize: first i adapted a triumph sender in my thermostat housing.
gauge sat around half scale during driving.
now i fitted the one from steve and its reading around 3/4 of the gauge.
my instrument looks like that one:
can anybody tell me which temperatures the indicators on the gauge are linked to?
but gauge does not read correctly, imo.
to summarize: first i adapted a triumph sender in my thermostat housing.
gauge sat around half scale during driving.
now i fitted the one from steve and its reading around 3/4 of the gauge.
my instrument looks like that one:
can anybody tell me which temperatures the indicators on the gauge are linked to?
Edited by Comadis on Saturday 12th February 17:53
These gauges are ran via a 10V supply IF this is faulty then the gauge will read incorrectly anyway...(I did say)... AND, infra-red non-contact laser temp gauges are pennies these days ANY person playing with cars should own one (get one that car read the exhaust temps as that relates to correct fueling and you can SEE HT lead breakdown as the car starts and warms up) you can even test wiring for hot resistance issues and tyre temps.
Adrian@
Adrian@
oh no...not again from the beginning:
when the gauge shows the correct value with the triumph sender how the 10V supply could be faulty?
when the fuel-gauge shows correctly, how the 10V supply should be faulty?
anyway..i already made a test, with a new mechanical voltage stabalizer AND an electroinic one: gauges show the same as b4!!
i want to keep the car original and dont want different gauges being installed (designwise)...so this kind of gauge must remain.
it already showed that it works with the triumph sender. as the triumph sender has a bigger thread it was installed temporary, with an adaptor, in the thread of the cooling-fan thermostat. also i dont want to split hoses nor do any additional wiring for another pick-up point of a new sender. the enginbay MUST stay clean, tidy and original, so i must stay with a 1/8npt threaded sender.
but finally we still havent clarified which value in celsius is linked to each indicator on the gauge?
when the gauge shows the correct value with the triumph sender how the 10V supply could be faulty?
when the fuel-gauge shows correctly, how the 10V supply should be faulty?
anyway..i already made a test, with a new mechanical voltage stabalizer AND an electroinic one: gauges show the same as b4!!
i want to keep the car original and dont want different gauges being installed (designwise)...so this kind of gauge must remain.
it already showed that it works with the triumph sender. as the triumph sender has a bigger thread it was installed temporary, with an adaptor, in the thread of the cooling-fan thermostat. also i dont want to split hoses nor do any additional wiring for another pick-up point of a new sender. the enginbay MUST stay clean, tidy and original, so i must stay with a 1/8npt threaded sender.
but finally we still havent clarified which value in celsius is linked to each indicator on the gauge?
Edited by Comadis on Sunday 13th February 09:51
Unless you have a mean average multi-meter it is is impossible to read the voltage off the OE mechanical voltage stabiliser ...It will read 2-14-8-2-6-3-9-12 ongoing, with highs of what ever the alternator peaks at and lows of 0v....it is a hot wire earth dissipated unit screwed to the rear of the dash board (2 male and 2 female connectors and an earth wire) the gauge and sender are related,BUT, also the gauge is adjustable from the outside rear...YOU need a known 10v supply (either double check the voltage, read what I say above OR change the OE part to an electronic version (as I do) that gives you 10V, IF you have an otter switch read the on-off information from this and trust the figures (it should say the cut-in and cut-out numbers on it) OR buy a infra-red gauge (IMHO a must) REMEMBER the circuit includes the mass of the engine/wires/sender etc. and even though the car starts, you must have good earthing they are important BUT I have seen issues where PTFE tape used to seal a sender then stopped the unit working as there was no connection.
PS ....THAT gauge was NEVER fitted to ANY TVR as OE.
Adrian@
PS ....THAT gauge was NEVER fitted to ANY TVR as OE.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Sunday 13th February 11:20
Comadis said:
oh no...not again from the beginning:
when the gauge shows the correct value with the triumph sender how the 10V supply could be faulty?
when the fuel-gauge shows correctly, how the 10V supply should be faulty?
anyway..i already made a test, with a new mechanical voltage stabalizer AND an electroinic one: gauges show the same as b4!!
i want to keep the car original and dont want different gauges being installed (designwise)...so this kind of gauge must remain.
it already showed that it works with the triumph sender. as the triumph sender has a bigger thread it was installed temporary, with an adaptor, in the thread of the cooling-fan thermostat. also i dont want to split hoses nor do any additional wiring for another pick-up point of a new sender. the enginbay MUST stay clean, tidy and original, so i must stay with a 1/8npt threaded sender.
but finally we still havent clarified which value in celsius is linked to each indicator on the gauge?
Smiths Gauges are available to suit either mechanical or electrical. See Demon Tweeks or Merlin Motorsport.when the gauge shows the correct value with the triumph sender how the 10V supply could be faulty?
when the fuel-gauge shows correctly, how the 10V supply should be faulty?
anyway..i already made a test, with a new mechanical voltage stabalizer AND an electroinic one: gauges show the same as b4!!
i want to keep the car original and dont want different gauges being installed (designwise)...so this kind of gauge must remain.
it already showed that it works with the triumph sender. as the triumph sender has a bigger thread it was installed temporary, with an adaptor, in the thread of the cooling-fan thermostat. also i dont want to split hoses nor do any additional wiring for another pick-up point of a new sender. the enginbay MUST stay clean, tidy and original, so i must stay with a 1/8npt threaded sender.
but finally we still havent clarified which value in celsius is linked to each indicator on the gauge?
Edited by Comadis on Sunday 13th February 09:51
exactly, my car isnt a TVR, but uses the combinsation of a ford x-flow and smiths gauges.
the smiths gauge i´m refering too is similar from the sender-resitance like the ones TVR used.
i would prefer a mechanical gauge, but the senders are huge...so they wont fit into the original pick-up point.
anyway...good news:
today the gauge sat exactly where it should!!!
don´t ask me why. i´m quite happy now.
the smiths gauge i´m refering too is similar from the sender-resitance like the ones TVR used.
i would prefer a mechanical gauge, but the senders are huge...so they wont fit into the original pick-up point.
anyway...good news:
today the gauge sat exactly where it should!!!
don´t ask me why. i´m quite happy now.
Edited by Comadis on Sunday 13th February 15:27
Axel, glad it arrived. I sent about 30 parcels of parts that day and yours was the only one I didn,t know if it arrived. Maybe it was suffering from jet lag or didn,t speak German when it arrived lol.
I wouldn,t get too upset with Adrian, he,s only trying to help, he just has the ability to make changing a bulb sound like a moon landing. It doesn,t need to be that complicated. Having said that not all Smiths temperature gauges are the same, life would be easy if they were and this discussion would not have arisen for the 20th time in the first place if it was.
I wouldn,t get too upset with Adrian, he,s only trying to help, he just has the ability to make changing a bulb sound like a moon landing. It doesn,t need to be that complicated. Having said that not all Smiths temperature gauges are the same, life would be easy if they were and this discussion would not have arisen for the 20th time in the first place if it was.
I'm sure this thread has drawn to a satisfactory conclusion for all although I must admit I was really enjoying it! Just one question while we are on the subject of temp gauges, were the gauges fitted to Vixens made by Smiths, AC or both. I'm only asking because I have a Smiths gauge but my other three small gauges are all AC so it does look a bit naff?
All my ancilliary guages are AC. Speedo and Tacho are not the same - One is smiths and one Jaeger (from memory)!
Could I suggest a bid on this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lotus-TVR-AC-Water-Temperatu...
Could I suggest a bid on this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lotus-TVR-AC-Water-Temperatu...
Either one or the other...(someone pop along with the cross over time please) the AC run for the dynamo cars and the change to an alternator is likely the reason...re the rev counter, again there are 2 types of one runs through and the other samples from the coil. everything is sortable given the money to do it!
Adrian@
Adrian@
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