3,000 miles across Britain in a 968 (long, pic heavy)
Discussion
This Easter I took advantage of a window of opportunity to take my dream road trip. The greatest hits of the British Isles: 9 days, 300-350 miles per day. Thanks to PH and the countless other invaluable web resources that I scoured for literally months prior to put together my itinerary. The planning is definitely a big part of the enjoyment.
Things didn't get off to the greatest of starts on the long-anticipated first Saturday morning when I discovered the 968 had a flat battery. Still, that was easily resolved with a pair of jump cables and the 968 lived up to its end of the bargain for the next 2,950 miles.
From the southeast I headed west toward South Wales, over the Severn Bridge and made a beeline for the Brecon Beacons: along the B4560 up to the B4520 to Builth Wells and west into the Elan Valley to Aberystwyth.
After a while in Wales I found myself muttering “Araf! Araf!” as I exploited the 968’s famed ability to carry speed into corners.
Last time for me in Wales was in 1988, and on the weekend before Easter 2009, the country greeted my triumphant return with absolutely stunning weather. At times like this it feels like the whole of Wales becomes a playground for petrolheads of the two-and four-wheeled variety. Coming from the SE the traffic wasn’t too scary and away from the main arteries it wasn’t hard to find clear roads even during Easter.
Heading into Snowdonia on the A470 I cut across east on the A4212 to Bala then north toward on the B4501, which despite its relatively short length was the absolute highlight of this northbound Wales leg. So good in fact that I did it again in the opposite direction coming back down the following weekend – when paired with the B4391 to Welshpool this makes for a memorable B-road combo that is exactly the kind of challenging twisty stuff in which the 968 excels.
After a fuel stop at the famous Betwys-y-Coed Shell station which at 2 pm on a sunny Sunday was jammed to the rafters with fancy metal, I headed for the famed Evo Triangle.
To be honest I was slightly disappointed with the Evo Triangle. Not for the last time on this trip, I found that this type of open, sweeping moorland road wasn’t really to my taste nor the 968’s, as these types of roads favour power over finesse. It’s simply not that much fun unless you’re absolutely caning it, yet the surface was also quite bumpy in places which discouraged pushing really hard. So a bit of a let-down, although I could see why it makes for a great route for testing.
Heading east back into England I made my way toward the legendary Cat and Fiddle in the Peak District. Having read and heard all about the “spirited” bikers. it still came as a shock to see how hard some of the big-bike boys were pushing. As somebody who gets vertigo just by watchingClimb Dance, my cojones were hardly up to the task, palpably shrivelling as I made my ascent. 10 or even 7/8/9 tenths up the side of mountains? No thanks, even with the Armco.
After a pleasant little detour through the Lake District, it was time to tackle the A686 from Penrith to Haydon Bridge. This road gets more recommendations on PH than almost any other, but for me it fell slightly short being (like the Evo Triangle) another sweeping moorland route that wasn’t that interesting to drive at the NSL yet (like the Cat & Fiddle) featuring some fairly steep inclines that for me at least didn’t invite serious hooning. Although the bleakness of the moorland certainly makes for an atmospheric backdrop; here’s the view from the Hartside Pass, the highest point – the winds are very strong up here:
Northbound on the A696 and A68 (fast, sweeping) into the border into Scotland, and wouldn’t you know it: after three days of glorious sunshine the first drops of drizzle on the trip started coming down as I got out of the car to take this photo:
Welcome to Scotland. It’s been 25 years since I was last here, and gosh, folk up here really do drive better, and quicker. The concept of “making progress” is so much better understood by road users here: pulling over to let a faster vehicle through is common road etiquette while the preponderance of “Allow Overtaking” signs nearly brings a tear to my eye. Is it me or is this country crammed full of Peugeot Partner vans being pedalled flat-out by local tradesmen? It’s all I can do to keep up.
What’s more, almost immediately as soon as you cross the border the roads get more interesting. I left the A68 to pick the A72, the northernmost third of the “Moffat Loop” triangle. Now this was an A-road to savour: smoothness and the ability to sustain serious momentum that characterise the best of its designation, but with the bendy technical challenges of a perfect B-way. The 968 was loving it, and so was I.
After a motorway stint from Edinburgh to Perth, it was up through Perthshire on the A93, another absolutely stunning piece of work along the lines of the A72. Moreover, as it passes near by the Cairngorms I get my first glimpse of full-on Scottish mountain scenery.
As the A93 winds northward through Braemar (possibly the most beautiful town I’ve ever seen), I’m cruising along, enjoying the astounding views when I’m overtaken by a new-shape Civic Type-R being driven with enthusiasm. Game on! A memorable A93 convoy ensues, continuing as we both turn left onto the A939. I’m grateful for the 968’s confidence-inspiring handling in the wet; sharp yet progressive.
I’m pushing onward now through Speyside (single-malt heartland but alas, distillery tours are off the menu for this solo driving holiday), through Inverness and up into the deep north. The A9 which straddles the northeast Scottish coast is unremarkable as a driving road but does boast some rather good views, particularly when the sky clears as early evening beckons.
Having read mixed reviews of John o’ Groats, my expectations weren’t too high as I rode into town.
Perhaps it was because of my low expectations, perhaps it was the weather, or possibly because it was relatively bereft of tourists (or people of any description) when I visited, but my brief visit to John o’ Groats turned out utterly fabulous. Standing on the very edge of our island, with only a couple of sheep in the far distance to keep me company, the sense of isolation was delicious as I was treated to the kind of rich, intense twilight that I’d never seen before in the British Isles.
I headed west toward my B&B in Thurso, driving straight towards the glorious sunset.
The following day, Thurso to Skye, took me across almost the entire northern and northwest coastline of Scotland. Confronted with breathtaking vistas around almost every bend, it was almost too much at times. Just as soon as I would pick up any speed, I’d slow back down, my jaw on the floor.
Driving-wise, much of the Thurso to Durness road is single-track and while that doesn’t sound great on paper, in practice it’s great fun. With little traffic and excellent sightlines, progress can be made and it’s a hoot keeping a good rate of knots going across a narrow road.
As I hit the west coast and the road turn southward towards Ullapool, the road branches into single-carriageway and we pick up the pace.
Just as I was starting to get slightly desensitised with all the constant bombardment of lavish scenery, Loch Maree came into view and once again my jaw hit the floor.
That morning and afternoon on the north and northwest coast of Scotland rates as two of the best of my life, surrounded by views to rival the world’s best, with wonderful driving roads snaking beneath me. The car and I were in our element, and you really do lose all concept of time when on drives like this: before I knew it, Applecross with its famous pass beckoned.
There weren’t too many in the way of stops at all on this tour, but a walk along Applecross beach, with Skye shimmering in the distance, helped to reset the senses and get ready for the Applecross Pass.
I’d originally hoped to take the ferry for my first trip to Skye, but route-wise it didn’t quite fit with plans, so in the end settled for driving across the slightly anodyne bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh.
After yet another hearty breakfast I set off from Broadford. While I had originally considered a full loop of Skye, a 450-mile day on my sixth solid full day of driving was a bit much even for me. I settled for the north loop and then set my compass for Loch Ness.
The A87 east of Skye winds its way through quintessential Highland country, with lots of laybys with people stopped to take pictures, or parked cars with roof boxes whose occupants were off exploring by foot or oar. Rather than continue to Invergarry I took the A887 shortcut north, along the way traversing some of the fastest sections of the whole trip – long, straight, excellently-surfaced stretches where velocities where one could lose licence and more could be easily sustained, if one had such inclinations. Myself? Happy to be cruising quietly, doing some easy lean-back driving for once.
Loch Ness itself impresses due to its sheer size, and picking up the A82 as it follows the loch’s perimeter, the only correct way to be is window down, favourite driving tunes playing.
Having enjoyed the A939 immensely on the way up, I wanted to drive the final section that I’d missed on the outbound leg. Turning off at Grantown-on-Spey I picked up the B970, a 30-mile ribbon of tarmac that winds through a forest for most of its length.
After a peek at Ben Nevis and an overnight at Fort William at a B&B with a lovely view facing Loch Linnhe, I headed south on the A82. Following a nugget of advice gleaned from this very forum, about 12 miles or so south of Fort William I turned off to take a little detour along the B863 which follows the perimeter of Loch Leven.
Compact it may be, but Loch Leven ranks right up at the top when I think back to the highlights of the trip, with its combination of astounding views and a gorgeous, looping road the north leg of which from North Ballachulish to Kinlochleven hugs the loch so closely that you can almost peer out of the car window and see your reflection in the water.
It was the early morning at the start of the driving day, and I had the loch and the road virtually to myself. The memory of that morning, the 968 and I flowing down that north shore road moist with the Highland dew, will forever remain etched into my brain.
Seven days and more than 2,000 miles into the tour, I had reached a new high, which faded only very slowly as I rejoined the A82 which gave way to the A84, and watched the Highlands disappear in my rear-view mirror as I made my way back south on the M9.
The day’s serious driving was not over, however, as with memories still top of mind of the fabulous A72 from the northbound journey a few days back, my migration south was taken via the A701 to Moffat followed by the A708 to Selkirk – which along with the A72 make up the three legs of the Moffat Loop.
And what a phenomenal loop it is.
Each of the three individual stretches has its own distinctive character – the A72 fast and demanding, the A701 narrower and tremendous fun, and the A708 full of undulating crests and dips that give the suspension a thorough workout yet well-surfaced and sighted enough for rapid progress. Just breathtaking.
I was enjoying the hoon so much that I didn’t bother stopping to take pictures. Edinburghites (or is it Edinburghers?) are truly fortunate to have the Moffat Loop in their back yard. It’s reason enough to move there.
Heading south, and back on English turf, I didn’t stop long at Kielder Water which by any normal standards is a major attraction yet felt like a pale imitation of the wonderful lochs I had just left behind. I had similarly anti-climactic feelings about the B6306 and B6278 from Hexham to Barnard Castle which concluded by far the most outstanding driving day I’ve ever had; wonderful roads by any standards, yet at that moment, nothing could have lived up to the Scottish highs which I had experienced earlier that day.
Two days of driving holiday left, and next up was a fast run in great weather through the Yorkshire Dales, Buttertubs Pass and the excellent B6255 from Hawes to Ingleton before catching the M6 back down into Wales.
For the second consecutive weekend Wales treated me to clear skies and warm sun. I woke up on Easter Sunday, the last day of my trip and made my way to the rendezvous point.
What more fitting way to finish off my “best of British” tour than the Easter 2009 South Wales run? Some of the best roads and scenery that South and West Wales have to offer in the fast-paced company of a like-minded group of fellow blat artists.
As the Welsh sun shone on all the polished metal that showed up for the run, the 968 stood out conspicuously with its dusty bodywork and baked-on brake dust that paid witness to 3,000 hard-driven miles. The grime washed off easily – the memories will linger longer.
Things didn't get off to the greatest of starts on the long-anticipated first Saturday morning when I discovered the 968 had a flat battery. Still, that was easily resolved with a pair of jump cables and the 968 lived up to its end of the bargain for the next 2,950 miles.
From the southeast I headed west toward South Wales, over the Severn Bridge and made a beeline for the Brecon Beacons: along the B4560 up to the B4520 to Builth Wells and west into the Elan Valley to Aberystwyth.
After a while in Wales I found myself muttering “Araf! Araf!” as I exploited the 968’s famed ability to carry speed into corners.
Last time for me in Wales was in 1988, and on the weekend before Easter 2009, the country greeted my triumphant return with absolutely stunning weather. At times like this it feels like the whole of Wales becomes a playground for petrolheads of the two-and four-wheeled variety. Coming from the SE the traffic wasn’t too scary and away from the main arteries it wasn’t hard to find clear roads even during Easter.
Heading into Snowdonia on the A470 I cut across east on the A4212 to Bala then north toward on the B4501, which despite its relatively short length was the absolute highlight of this northbound Wales leg. So good in fact that I did it again in the opposite direction coming back down the following weekend – when paired with the B4391 to Welshpool this makes for a memorable B-road combo that is exactly the kind of challenging twisty stuff in which the 968 excels.
After a fuel stop at the famous Betwys-y-Coed Shell station which at 2 pm on a sunny Sunday was jammed to the rafters with fancy metal, I headed for the famed Evo Triangle.
To be honest I was slightly disappointed with the Evo Triangle. Not for the last time on this trip, I found that this type of open, sweeping moorland road wasn’t really to my taste nor the 968’s, as these types of roads favour power over finesse. It’s simply not that much fun unless you’re absolutely caning it, yet the surface was also quite bumpy in places which discouraged pushing really hard. So a bit of a let-down, although I could see why it makes for a great route for testing.
Heading east back into England I made my way toward the legendary Cat and Fiddle in the Peak District. Having read and heard all about the “spirited” bikers. it still came as a shock to see how hard some of the big-bike boys were pushing. As somebody who gets vertigo just by watchingClimb Dance, my cojones were hardly up to the task, palpably shrivelling as I made my ascent. 10 or even 7/8/9 tenths up the side of mountains? No thanks, even with the Armco.
After a pleasant little detour through the Lake District, it was time to tackle the A686 from Penrith to Haydon Bridge. This road gets more recommendations on PH than almost any other, but for me it fell slightly short being (like the Evo Triangle) another sweeping moorland route that wasn’t that interesting to drive at the NSL yet (like the Cat & Fiddle) featuring some fairly steep inclines that for me at least didn’t invite serious hooning. Although the bleakness of the moorland certainly makes for an atmospheric backdrop; here’s the view from the Hartside Pass, the highest point – the winds are very strong up here:
Northbound on the A696 and A68 (fast, sweeping) into the border into Scotland, and wouldn’t you know it: after three days of glorious sunshine the first drops of drizzle on the trip started coming down as I got out of the car to take this photo:
Welcome to Scotland. It’s been 25 years since I was last here, and gosh, folk up here really do drive better, and quicker. The concept of “making progress” is so much better understood by road users here: pulling over to let a faster vehicle through is common road etiquette while the preponderance of “Allow Overtaking” signs nearly brings a tear to my eye. Is it me or is this country crammed full of Peugeot Partner vans being pedalled flat-out by local tradesmen? It’s all I can do to keep up.
What’s more, almost immediately as soon as you cross the border the roads get more interesting. I left the A68 to pick the A72, the northernmost third of the “Moffat Loop” triangle. Now this was an A-road to savour: smoothness and the ability to sustain serious momentum that characterise the best of its designation, but with the bendy technical challenges of a perfect B-way. The 968 was loving it, and so was I.
After a motorway stint from Edinburgh to Perth, it was up through Perthshire on the A93, another absolutely stunning piece of work along the lines of the A72. Moreover, as it passes near by the Cairngorms I get my first glimpse of full-on Scottish mountain scenery.
As the A93 winds northward through Braemar (possibly the most beautiful town I’ve ever seen), I’m cruising along, enjoying the astounding views when I’m overtaken by a new-shape Civic Type-R being driven with enthusiasm. Game on! A memorable A93 convoy ensues, continuing as we both turn left onto the A939. I’m grateful for the 968’s confidence-inspiring handling in the wet; sharp yet progressive.
I’m pushing onward now through Speyside (single-malt heartland but alas, distillery tours are off the menu for this solo driving holiday), through Inverness and up into the deep north. The A9 which straddles the northeast Scottish coast is unremarkable as a driving road but does boast some rather good views, particularly when the sky clears as early evening beckons.
Having read mixed reviews of John o’ Groats, my expectations weren’t too high as I rode into town.
Perhaps it was because of my low expectations, perhaps it was the weather, or possibly because it was relatively bereft of tourists (or people of any description) when I visited, but my brief visit to John o’ Groats turned out utterly fabulous. Standing on the very edge of our island, with only a couple of sheep in the far distance to keep me company, the sense of isolation was delicious as I was treated to the kind of rich, intense twilight that I’d never seen before in the British Isles.
I headed west toward my B&B in Thurso, driving straight towards the glorious sunset.
The following day, Thurso to Skye, took me across almost the entire northern and northwest coastline of Scotland. Confronted with breathtaking vistas around almost every bend, it was almost too much at times. Just as soon as I would pick up any speed, I’d slow back down, my jaw on the floor.
Driving-wise, much of the Thurso to Durness road is single-track and while that doesn’t sound great on paper, in practice it’s great fun. With little traffic and excellent sightlines, progress can be made and it’s a hoot keeping a good rate of knots going across a narrow road.
As I hit the west coast and the road turn southward towards Ullapool, the road branches into single-carriageway and we pick up the pace.
Just as I was starting to get slightly desensitised with all the constant bombardment of lavish scenery, Loch Maree came into view and once again my jaw hit the floor.
That morning and afternoon on the north and northwest coast of Scotland rates as two of the best of my life, surrounded by views to rival the world’s best, with wonderful driving roads snaking beneath me. The car and I were in our element, and you really do lose all concept of time when on drives like this: before I knew it, Applecross with its famous pass beckoned.
There weren’t too many in the way of stops at all on this tour, but a walk along Applecross beach, with Skye shimmering in the distance, helped to reset the senses and get ready for the Applecross Pass.
I’d originally hoped to take the ferry for my first trip to Skye, but route-wise it didn’t quite fit with plans, so in the end settled for driving across the slightly anodyne bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh.
After yet another hearty breakfast I set off from Broadford. While I had originally considered a full loop of Skye, a 450-mile day on my sixth solid full day of driving was a bit much even for me. I settled for the north loop and then set my compass for Loch Ness.
The A87 east of Skye winds its way through quintessential Highland country, with lots of laybys with people stopped to take pictures, or parked cars with roof boxes whose occupants were off exploring by foot or oar. Rather than continue to Invergarry I took the A887 shortcut north, along the way traversing some of the fastest sections of the whole trip – long, straight, excellently-surfaced stretches where velocities where one could lose licence and more could be easily sustained, if one had such inclinations. Myself? Happy to be cruising quietly, doing some easy lean-back driving for once.
Loch Ness itself impresses due to its sheer size, and picking up the A82 as it follows the loch’s perimeter, the only correct way to be is window down, favourite driving tunes playing.
Having enjoyed the A939 immensely on the way up, I wanted to drive the final section that I’d missed on the outbound leg. Turning off at Grantown-on-Spey I picked up the B970, a 30-mile ribbon of tarmac that winds through a forest for most of its length.
After a peek at Ben Nevis and an overnight at Fort William at a B&B with a lovely view facing Loch Linnhe, I headed south on the A82. Following a nugget of advice gleaned from this very forum, about 12 miles or so south of Fort William I turned off to take a little detour along the B863 which follows the perimeter of Loch Leven.
Compact it may be, but Loch Leven ranks right up at the top when I think back to the highlights of the trip, with its combination of astounding views and a gorgeous, looping road the north leg of which from North Ballachulish to Kinlochleven hugs the loch so closely that you can almost peer out of the car window and see your reflection in the water.
It was the early morning at the start of the driving day, and I had the loch and the road virtually to myself. The memory of that morning, the 968 and I flowing down that north shore road moist with the Highland dew, will forever remain etched into my brain.
Seven days and more than 2,000 miles into the tour, I had reached a new high, which faded only very slowly as I rejoined the A82 which gave way to the A84, and watched the Highlands disappear in my rear-view mirror as I made my way back south on the M9.
The day’s serious driving was not over, however, as with memories still top of mind of the fabulous A72 from the northbound journey a few days back, my migration south was taken via the A701 to Moffat followed by the A708 to Selkirk – which along with the A72 make up the three legs of the Moffat Loop.
And what a phenomenal loop it is.
Each of the three individual stretches has its own distinctive character – the A72 fast and demanding, the A701 narrower and tremendous fun, and the A708 full of undulating crests and dips that give the suspension a thorough workout yet well-surfaced and sighted enough for rapid progress. Just breathtaking.
I was enjoying the hoon so much that I didn’t bother stopping to take pictures. Edinburghites (or is it Edinburghers?) are truly fortunate to have the Moffat Loop in their back yard. It’s reason enough to move there.
Heading south, and back on English turf, I didn’t stop long at Kielder Water which by any normal standards is a major attraction yet felt like a pale imitation of the wonderful lochs I had just left behind. I had similarly anti-climactic feelings about the B6306 and B6278 from Hexham to Barnard Castle which concluded by far the most outstanding driving day I’ve ever had; wonderful roads by any standards, yet at that moment, nothing could have lived up to the Scottish highs which I had experienced earlier that day.
Two days of driving holiday left, and next up was a fast run in great weather through the Yorkshire Dales, Buttertubs Pass and the excellent B6255 from Hawes to Ingleton before catching the M6 back down into Wales.
For the second consecutive weekend Wales treated me to clear skies and warm sun. I woke up on Easter Sunday, the last day of my trip and made my way to the rendezvous point.
What more fitting way to finish off my “best of British” tour than the Easter 2009 South Wales run? Some of the best roads and scenery that South and West Wales have to offer in the fast-paced company of a like-minded group of fellow blat artists.
As the Welsh sun shone on all the polished metal that showed up for the run, the 968 stood out conspicuously with its dusty bodywork and baked-on brake dust that paid witness to 3,000 hard-driven miles. The grime washed off easily – the memories will linger longer.
Thankyou for posting such a well written and excellently documented tale of travel.
I know some of the roads you've documented, most notably the Welsh section, and I'd love to get up to Scotland in the near future.
Awesome, thankyou very much
I know some of the roads you've documented, most notably the Welsh section, and I'd love to get up to Scotland in the near future.
Awesome, thankyou very much
Edited by cw42 on Wednesday 22 April 01:15
Thoroughly enjoyed reading that. Sounds like you enjoyed Scotland, i know what you mean about the Moffat loop. I commute between Dumfries and Edinburgh from time to time and i'll always go up the 701 and down the 702, really need to stop and take some pictures there though. Never seems to be on my mind
Awesome read mate, I have done scotland every year for the last 11 years and never tire of the place or roads
Simply brilliant 
I was hoping you would write this thread after reading your earlier one of planning the trip.
As mentioned by many above, very well written with superb pictures. I particularly like the way you get at least a bit of the 968 in every photo (bar 1
)
A shame i couldn't make it to the SW PH run
my 993 could have been in that line up photo.
One day when the kids are a little older i would love to do a similar trip (with the misses) and this post has really wetted my appetite
FG
I was hoping you would write this thread after reading your earlier one of planning the trip.
As mentioned by many above, very well written with superb pictures. I particularly like the way you get at least a bit of the 968 in every photo (bar 1
)A shame i couldn't make it to the SW PH run
my 993 could have been in that line up photo.One day when the kids are a little older i would love to do a similar trip (with the misses) and this post has really wetted my appetite
FG
Gassing Station | Roads | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff