E46 M3 Project
Discussion
mwstewart said:
melvster said:
Astounding level of detail as ever 
Cheers 
Babw said:
Brilliant detail but a part of me wishes you kept the standard bumper + bootlid.
Did you manage to fit the Z4M steering rack? I bought a 330 club sport rack from BMW (as it's faster) which is yet to be fitted, now I'm wondering whether I'll come across similar issues to you....
Yes, the rack has been on for a year and I'm really pleased with it. I also figured out the correct coding for the MK60 DSC module, and aside from that small job the the rack was a straight swap.Did you manage to fit the Z4M steering rack? I bought a 330 club sport rack from BMW (as it's faster) which is yet to be fitted, now I'm wondering whether I'll come across similar issues to you....
The 330 Club Sport rack ratio is 13.7:1, which is the same as the CS, CSL, and Z4M Roadster. Didn't you fancy the 12.8:1 Z4M Coupe rack?
A quick update to mention JC Racing http://www.jcracing.info/?page=racing and what an absolute pleasure it has been dealing with them.
I called last week to ask about the lead time for rebuilding my diff with the new ratio, and I explained that I was on leave the w/c 7/7 to work on the car to meet a deadline. JCR agreed to get the diff finished and back to me in time. The diff left my house on Monday afternoon and was with John and Russ on Wednesday morning, and by the time I called at lunch they had already stripped it down and we're looking to have it finished for Friday, given they knew I needed it.
Top class service and both John and Russ are courteous and professional. I totally recommend them.
A small piece of info: I learned that the rear diff pinion has manufacturing tolerance information laser etched onto it and this is required to correctly shim the rebuilt assembly.
I called last week to ask about the lead time for rebuilding my diff with the new ratio, and I explained that I was on leave the w/c 7/7 to work on the car to meet a deadline. JCR agreed to get the diff finished and back to me in time. The diff left my house on Monday afternoon and was with John and Russ on Wednesday morning, and by the time I called at lunch they had already stripped it down and we're looking to have it finished for Friday, given they knew I needed it.
Top class service and both John and Russ are courteous and professional. I totally recommend them.
A small piece of info: I learned that the rear diff pinion has manufacturing tolerance information laser etched onto it and this is required to correctly shim the rebuilt assembly.
mwstewart said:
A quick update to mention JC Racing http://www.jcracing.info/?page=racing and what an absolute pleasure it has been dealing with them.
I called last week to ask about the lead time for rebuilding my diff with the new ratio, and I explained that I was on leave the w/c 7/7 to work on the car to meet a deadline. JCR agreed to get the diff finished and back to me in time. The diff left my house on Monday afternoon and was with John and Russ on Wednesday morning, and by the time I called at lunch they had already stripped it down and we're looking to have it finished for Friday, given they knew I needed it.
Top class service and both John and Russ are courteous and professional. I totally recommend them.
A small piece of info: I learned that the rear diff pinion has manufacturing tolerance information laser etched onto it and this is required to correctly shim the rebuilt assembly.
So can they rebuild it properly - there was some discussion earlier about rebuilt diffs being noisier than factory built?I called last week to ask about the lead time for rebuilding my diff with the new ratio, and I explained that I was on leave the w/c 7/7 to work on the car to meet a deadline. JCR agreed to get the diff finished and back to me in time. The diff left my house on Monday afternoon and was with John and Russ on Wednesday morning, and by the time I called at lunch they had already stripped it down and we're looking to have it finished for Friday, given they knew I needed it.
Top class service and both John and Russ are courteous and professional. I totally recommend them.
A small piece of info: I learned that the rear diff pinion has manufacturing tolerance information laser etched onto it and this is required to correctly shim the rebuilt assembly.
ATM said:
So can they rebuild it properly - there was some discussion earlier about rebuilt diffs being noisier than factory built?
Yes, it is not uncommon for a rebuilt diff to whine, knock or even do both. The diff in my car had none of those symptoms and having spoken to John and Russ I have confidence that the rebuilt diff won't either. I've heard nothing but praise for JCR and based on their service I can see why, but I'll reserve full judgement until I've road tested the car I bought a spare diff that will be for sale if the road test checks out OK.
Ruskie said:
mwstewart said:
melvster said:
Astounding level of detail as ever
Cheers Babw said:
Brilliant detail but a part of me wishes you kept the standard bumper + bootlid.
Did you manage to fit the Z4M steering rack? I bought a 330 club sport rack from BMW (as it's faster) which is yet to be fitted, now I'm wondering whether I'll come across similar issues to you....
Yes, the rack has been on for a year and I'm really pleased with it. I also figured out the correct coding for the MK60 DSC module, and aside from that small job the the rack was a straight swap.Did you manage to fit the Z4M steering rack? I bought a 330 club sport rack from BMW (as it's faster) which is yet to be fitted, now I'm wondering whether I'll come across similar issues to you....
The 330 Club Sport rack ratio is 13.7:1, which is the same as the CS, CSL, and Z4M Roadster. Didn't you fancy the 12.8:1 Z4M Coupe rack?
The E46 M3 CSL/CS ratio is actually 14.5:1 ( slightly slower ) which is a faster ratio than the normal E46 M3 at 15.4:1
The Compact, thanks to BMW chassis guy Heinz Krusche, introduced a few little changes to the E46 range, it was intended to be a bit more 'radical' than it ended up as, at one point there was to be an M-lite version, hence the quicker steering ratio, suspension settings that were about 12% stiffer on the 6-cylinder model than on the equivalent 6-cylinder Coupe, much stiffer front ARB and "shorter" rear diff ratio
Edited by s m on Thursday 3rd July 22:39
DanielJames said:
Just had another catch up on the thread. I'm in the market for an E46 M3 now and seeing this project is a lovely contribution to that desire!
Do it. Fantastic cars, as you probably know s m said:
325ti FARB approx 1.6 times torsionally stiffer than 330i
Thanks. I just checked RealOEM.325ti: 31356754993 - 26.5mm. That's 0.5mm thicker than the M3 Coupe's 26mm.
I checked the 330Ci and it is only 23.5mm!
The M3 Convertible is 27mm, which is what I've gone for.
Coker said:
Mind boggling levels of detail and commitment going on here.
Inspires me to really look after my M3. Fantastic thread.
Thank you Inspires me to really look after my M3. Fantastic thread.
A 55 plate Imola must be a rare thing!Max_Torque said:
Do you mind if i ask where the CWP came from, and how much ££ ?? thanks!
Sure. Part number 33127768525. It likely won't appear on the dealer stock system as it's a Motorsport part; I ordered mine via http://bmminiparts.com/PriceFinder.aspxThe price seems to fluctuate a bit but will be between £480 and £550 inc. VAT.
The rear hubs are machined cast parts so plating them was not an option due to the risk of Nitrogen embrittlement, so I chose vapour blasting and a zing primer finish instead.
Replacement front window
When I bought the car it had been stood for quite some time without being connected to a battery conditioner, hence the battery was nearly flat. When this happens the front window doesn't retract correctly when the door is opened, and the force placed on the glass as it catches the weather seal leads to play in the window regulator - I mentioned the excess play in a previous post. A result of the extra play - ~3mm - was that the front window had come into contact with the inner door ever so slightly and marred the glass. I'm picky so I've replaced the glass.
I also replaced the moisture batter/sound deadening.
CSL Map sensor wiring
Here are four connectors specific to the CSL that I'm going to wire up to the DME:
I bought all the OEM connectors, pins and wiring sleeving, and also the correct OEM colour thinwall cable.
The MAP sensor actually replaces the MAF sensor and makes use of the same wires and colour coding, and terminates at DME connector X60003.
I cut a hole out of a spare grommet at the rear of the ECU compartment and used the OEM sleeving from there to the sensor.
OEM pins crimped and soldered.
Connector in place and heat shrinked.
Underside final prep & unserseal
In the end I went quite far with the underside, and used a Dremel and various sanding products to remove every trace of surface rust, however small. Somehow this has turned into a restoration project.
3M sealant applied. Once I paint these areas it will be hard to tell any work has been done, which is exactly what I aim for.
Looking forward at the two rear mounts.
Replacement front window
When I bought the car it had been stood for quite some time without being connected to a battery conditioner, hence the battery was nearly flat. When this happens the front window doesn't retract correctly when the door is opened, and the force placed on the glass as it catches the weather seal leads to play in the window regulator - I mentioned the excess play in a previous post. A result of the extra play - ~3mm - was that the front window had come into contact with the inner door ever so slightly and marred the glass. I'm picky so I've replaced the glass.
I also replaced the moisture batter/sound deadening.
CSL Map sensor wiring
Here are four connectors specific to the CSL that I'm going to wire up to the DME:
I bought all the OEM connectors, pins and wiring sleeving, and also the correct OEM colour thinwall cable.
The MAP sensor actually replaces the MAF sensor and makes use of the same wires and colour coding, and terminates at DME connector X60003.
I cut a hole out of a spare grommet at the rear of the ECU compartment and used the OEM sleeving from there to the sensor.
OEM pins crimped and soldered.
Connector in place and heat shrinked.
Underside final prep & unserseal
In the end I went quite far with the underside, and used a Dremel and various sanding products to remove every trace of surface rust, however small. Somehow this has turned into a restoration project.
3M sealant applied. Once I paint these areas it will be hard to tell any work has been done, which is exactly what I aim for.
Looking forward at the two rear mounts.
Every time I read this thread I am more and more amazed at the level of detail, precision and effort that has gone into this project, I was trying to explain this thread to a friend the other day and he could not understand why all this work was going into an E46 M3 I'm sure he'll understand when he reads it through though.
Can't wait to see it finished OP, do you have date in mind for its completion ?
Can't wait to see it finished OP, do you have date in mind for its completion ?
Remagel2507 said:
Every time I read this thread I am more and more amazed at the level of detail, precision and effort that has gone into this project, I was trying to explain this thread to a friend the other day and he could not understand why all this work was going into an E46 M3 I'm sure he'll understand when he reads it through though.
Can't wait to see it finished OP, do you have date in mind for its completion ?
Thank you! Better not show your friend my Fiesta thread - that probably makes even less sense Can't wait to see it finished OP, do you have date in mind for its completion ?
Quick update. My Dad kindly cleaned up the CSL rear silencer this morning so its ready to go on the car. I'm probably in the minority in that I don't like the sound of after market silencers on the E46: cats aside the rest of the system doesn't have a huge impact on noise, but the rear silencer does, hence I've chosen the CSL version which has a very slightly deeper tone than the original and no increase in rasp.
Aside from the weight, the only other distinguishing feature is these green CSL stamps.
Excellent job:
Remagel2507 said:
Can't wait to see it finished OP, do you have date in mind for its completion ?
Sorry, I missed your question: the current phase will be complete for August 2nd as that's when my Friends get married and I need the car to drive the Bridesmaids to Church. The project won't stop there, though; I want to restore the front end of the car and the engine bay, though Admittedly there's far less to do there. I hope to completely finish the car over the coming year.jbaddeley said:
Been planning to get my diff rebuilt and ratio changed on my e36 m3 3.0. Do you mind sharing how much JC charged for the work they did on yours?
Sure: a final drive swap is between £300 and £400 and includes one bearing. A complete rebuild would be up towards £600.It's worth calling for a price as I only asked for an estimate. I haven't yet had the bill.
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