Discussion
It's been a while since I updated the thread. Around this time last year, I put the CSL on a classic policy, and bought a runaround so it didn't get subjected to winter roads any more. With one thing and another, it's only done a few hundred miles in total since it emerged from hibernation in March.
It was due an oil service this summer. Since I was thinking of giving up on the BMW insured warranty, I took the car in to Chandlers in Brighton, where James, their M Tech, gave it a thorough going over, including a leakdown test to check for head gasket issues. Happily the readings were really good, so no issue there. A couple of oil leaks were dealt with under warranty, and it also had the bonus of a new differential, the old one having become rather noisy, so that was a nice result. A big thumbs up for James, he really knows his stuff and emailed me several progress reports throughout the week that the car was on holiday at the coast. Thoroughly recommended if you need a BMW dealer to work on your car.
James also told me that the boot floor had a small crack, which I already knew about, although it had got slightly worse since the last time it was on a ramp. The car's too old now for BMW to do a warranty repair (and the BMW repair technique is horribly invasive anyway), so I talked to a local indy about getting a more targeted repair done. Grosvenor Motor Co are a large BMW specialist in Reading (http://bmwspecialistreading.co.uk/). They've done various items on the CSL during the 6+ years I've had it, as well as looking after the family barges, so I know them well now and trust them to do a thorough job. The owner, Pete, does all their boot repairs himself, which is good news because he's a ridiculous perfectionist.
I took the car in, and returned a couple of days later when it was on the ramp with the rear end totally stripped out.
If you don't know about the E46 boot floor problem, there are four attachment points for the subframe that carries the diff and rear suspension, and over time the stress on the floor around these points can cause the original spot welds to break, and you can ultimately end up with the whole floor ripping apart.
On my car, the damage still looked very minor, so Pete was hopeful that he could do a less invasive repair without having to weld big reinforcement plates in place.
We decided to send the subframe and some other parts off for powder coating as there were a few areas of surface corrosion. When the floor around the worst affected area was cut out, it turned out that there was no internal damage at all to the structure, it was really just a few spot welds that had gone. So the internal structure was reinforced, the floor plate refitted and welded up more securely. Pete said that usually the whole structure is wrecked by the time they come to repair them, so it was good mine was being done really early.
Same approach on the opposite corner, and some minor work on the other two less stressed corners. All the subframe bushes were replaced, and I also got them to fit some new stainless exhaust flanges while the exhaust was off the car, as the originals had completely disintegrated.
And there it is back together. The stonechip primer came out a slightly unexpected colour, but it'll get covered in road grime soon enough !
When it was time to pick the car up, there was yet another bonus in store. Their cleaner had chucked the rear discs in the bin, as they'd been left on the floor overnight before going back on the car. So they'd had to fit a new set of rear discs and pads, FoC obviously. Oops. The last job was a fresh MOT, even though it wasn't due till December, so that I don't have to EVER take it out in bad weather and on salty roads again.
Very pleased with how it all went, and and finally since the internet is only really for pictures of dogs and cats, here's a photo of Pete's dog.
It was due an oil service this summer. Since I was thinking of giving up on the BMW insured warranty, I took the car in to Chandlers in Brighton, where James, their M Tech, gave it a thorough going over, including a leakdown test to check for head gasket issues. Happily the readings were really good, so no issue there. A couple of oil leaks were dealt with under warranty, and it also had the bonus of a new differential, the old one having become rather noisy, so that was a nice result. A big thumbs up for James, he really knows his stuff and emailed me several progress reports throughout the week that the car was on holiday at the coast. Thoroughly recommended if you need a BMW dealer to work on your car.
James also told me that the boot floor had a small crack, which I already knew about, although it had got slightly worse since the last time it was on a ramp. The car's too old now for BMW to do a warranty repair (and the BMW repair technique is horribly invasive anyway), so I talked to a local indy about getting a more targeted repair done. Grosvenor Motor Co are a large BMW specialist in Reading (http://bmwspecialistreading.co.uk/). They've done various items on the CSL during the 6+ years I've had it, as well as looking after the family barges, so I know them well now and trust them to do a thorough job. The owner, Pete, does all their boot repairs himself, which is good news because he's a ridiculous perfectionist.
I took the car in, and returned a couple of days later when it was on the ramp with the rear end totally stripped out.
If you don't know about the E46 boot floor problem, there are four attachment points for the subframe that carries the diff and rear suspension, and over time the stress on the floor around these points can cause the original spot welds to break, and you can ultimately end up with the whole floor ripping apart.
On my car, the damage still looked very minor, so Pete was hopeful that he could do a less invasive repair without having to weld big reinforcement plates in place.
We decided to send the subframe and some other parts off for powder coating as there were a few areas of surface corrosion. When the floor around the worst affected area was cut out, it turned out that there was no internal damage at all to the structure, it was really just a few spot welds that had gone. So the internal structure was reinforced, the floor plate refitted and welded up more securely. Pete said that usually the whole structure is wrecked by the time they come to repair them, so it was good mine was being done really early.
Same approach on the opposite corner, and some minor work on the other two less stressed corners. All the subframe bushes were replaced, and I also got them to fit some new stainless exhaust flanges while the exhaust was off the car, as the originals had completely disintegrated.
And there it is back together. The stonechip primer came out a slightly unexpected colour, but it'll get covered in road grime soon enough !
When it was time to pick the car up, there was yet another bonus in store. Their cleaner had chucked the rear discs in the bin, as they'd been left on the floor overnight before going back on the car. So they'd had to fit a new set of rear discs and pads, FoC obviously. Oops. The last job was a fresh MOT, even though it wasn't due till December, so that I don't have to EVER take it out in bad weather and on salty roads again.
Very pleased with how it all went, and and finally since the internet is only really for pictures of dogs and cats, here's a photo of Pete's dog.
Bayston said:
Great read on a fantastic car 
just interested in why you didn't go for the Redish Motorsport subframe repair and reinforcement? as that is a well known repair in the BMW world and a tried and tested method of ensuring that this never returns.
Basically because the cracks weren't bad enough to require that amount of repair. Due to the torque load, the nearside rear mount is usually the worst affected, then the offside front mount, and then the other two. It's only if the first two have got really bad, that the others will also need significant repair. On mine, there was hardly any damage, so it wasn't necessary to do much to the other two mounts. So we decided not to cut the car up more than was actually necessary. just interested in why you didn't go for the Redish Motorsport subframe repair and reinforcement? as that is a well known repair in the BMW world and a tried and tested method of ensuring that this never returns.Love the CSL 
The reson the GT is as large as a 7 is because it's based on the F01. From wiki: This is as the GT's 120.7-inch (3,070 mm) wheelbase, 63.4-inch (1,610 mm) front track and 65.1-inch (1,650 mm) rear track are shared with the full-size short wheelbase 7 Series (F01), giving the GT considerably larger dimensions than the 5 Series (F10)
The reson the GT is as large as a 7 is because it's based on the F01. From wiki: This is as the GT's 120.7-inch (3,070 mm) wheelbase, 63.4-inch (1,610 mm) front track and 65.1-inch (1,650 mm) rear track are shared with the full-size short wheelbase 7 Series (F01), giving the GT considerably larger dimensions than the 5 Series (F10)
Lynch91 said:
I actually think your gt looks really nice with those wheels. The reclining seats in the back sound brilliant, I hadn't realised that these were based on the 7, now it's slightly less confusing why the introduced it.
F series 5/5GT/6/6GC/7 all based on the same platform modified to suit the model. Since I decided to keep the CSL off the road during the winter (anyone want to buy a set of M3 18" wheels with nearly new winter tyres on 
?) it was worth fixing a few minor cosmetic issues.
The door sill strips eventually get water under the lacquer and corrode, and I hadn't bothered replacing mine as the car was used year-round. The CSL-specific sill strips are still available, but I nearly had a heart attack when I found that they've doubled in price in the last couple of years, and were a bit over £200 each. Still, at least they were easy to fit.
DPP_5175 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
DPP_5177 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
The bonnet release springs were also corroded, which bugged me whenever I opened the bonnet. The old bolts were hard to get off, even with a lot of soaking with penetrating fluid, and I learnt in the process that Torx security bits are not really ideal for removing seized fasteners, as the end snapped off my (good quality) T30 one. Still, that gave me a reason to buy a new tool, which is always a bonus.
DPP_5184 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
DPP_5185 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
Some other random fasteners had corroded, so I replaced a few, such as this one on the airbox:
DPP_5186 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
DPP_5187 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
And finally the strut brace had a lot scoring and missing paint where it's been refitted at different times, so I touched that up and replaced the corroded nuts:
DPP_5183 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
Not quite sure what to do about the flaking logo on the cam cover. Is it "patina" or just a bit crap looking ? I don't suppose a new cam cover is cheap, so it's staying like that for now until I can work out a way of repainting it nicely.
?) it was worth fixing a few minor cosmetic issues.The door sill strips eventually get water under the lacquer and corrode, and I hadn't bothered replacing mine as the car was used year-round. The CSL-specific sill strips are still available, but I nearly had a heart attack when I found that they've doubled in price in the last couple of years, and were a bit over £200 each. Still, at least they were easy to fit.
DPP_5175 by tw_tvam, on FlickrDPP_5177 by tw_tvam, on FlickrThe bonnet release springs were also corroded, which bugged me whenever I opened the bonnet. The old bolts were hard to get off, even with a lot of soaking with penetrating fluid, and I learnt in the process that Torx security bits are not really ideal for removing seized fasteners, as the end snapped off my (good quality) T30 one. Still, that gave me a reason to buy a new tool, which is always a bonus.
DPP_5184 by tw_tvam, on FlickrDPP_5185 by tw_tvam, on FlickrSome other random fasteners had corroded, so I replaced a few, such as this one on the airbox:
DPP_5186 by tw_tvam, on FlickrDPP_5187 by tw_tvam, on FlickrAnd finally the strut brace had a lot scoring and missing paint where it's been refitted at different times, so I touched that up and replaced the corroded nuts:
DPP_5183 by tw_tvam, on FlickrNot quite sure what to do about the flaking logo on the cam cover. Is it "patina" or just a bit crap looking ? I don't suppose a new cam cover is cheap, so it's staying like that for now until I can work out a way of repainting it nicely.
outnumbered said:
Not quite sure what to do about the flaking logo on the cam cover. Is it "patina" or just a bit crap looking ? I don't suppose a new cam cover is cheap, so it's staying like that for now until I can work out a way of repainting it nicely.
Take it off the car and leave it on the floor of your local Indy for the cleaner to sort out? ;-)Cracking car the CSL, good thread.
Cracking CSL!
This could be of interest to you.. hell of a lot cheaper than a a new valve cover!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/m-en...
This could be of interest to you.. hell of a lot cheaper than a a new valve cover!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/m-en...
aka_kerrly said:
Cracking CSL!
This could be of interest to you.. hell of a lot cheaper than a a new valve cover!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/m-en...
Thanks for that, I hadn't realised it was removable. Another £34 GWH from the local dealer though, and the old one was a bThis could be of interest to you.. hell of a lot cheaper than a a new valve cover!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/m-en...
d to get off too without damaging the cam cover. Looks better though.
I gave the car it's regular excursion onto the drive a couple of days ago, to run the aircon for a bit and turn the tyres round. This surfaced a problem. The gear indicator was flashing constantly, with added bonging, although the gearbox was engaging correctly. Despite not having had an SMG gearbox problem in the last 10 years I've owned a car fitted with one, I was of course filled with internet-inspired dread of huge bills, and four figure GWH at the very least.
I knew that there were two microswitches under the bonnet to disable SMG gear selection while the bonnet is open.Slamming the bonnet again didn't help, and anyway, that was a forlorn hope, wasn't it, because the car could be driven ?
Fortunately a quick bit of googling turned up the answer. I didn't know that the safety microswitches are operated by the bonnet springs I'd replaced... It turns out that if ONE of these switches isn't operating properly, you get the behaviour I was seeing. If they both aren't operating, the car won't engage gear at all (which is what I was expecting to get if it was a bonnet switch issue).
So, 60 seconds to adjust the bonnet springs to be a bit longer, problem solved, wallet safe for the moment.
JakeT said:
Lovely think you've got there, and I swear I'd seen it before, then seeing you'd taken it to Grosvenors it all came clear. My 3er has spent time there in the past. Shame Pete drives a bloody Range Rover though, and Barry ditched his M3 for a 120d!
ah, another local! I always enjoy visiting Grosvenor, they're an entertaining bunch.Edited by outnumbered on Saturday 31st December 10:05
outnumbered said:
Back to Grosvenor Motor Company today in the CSL for the MOT. Sailed through, and only 700 miles in the last year. [n]So it's cost me getting on for 2 quid a mile to run in that time ![/b]
Offset that against the ever rising prices for CSLs and it's BARGAIN motoring!!!!The CSL came out of the garage in the first spell of dry weather about a month ago. In the first two trips out, I had the first SMG fault I've experienced in 10 years of owning SMG cars. Yellow cog on the dash, dropping out of gear, some gears not selectable. But then it seemed fine the next few times I drove it.
As I had a big trip to Europe coming up, and I still have the insured warranty, I took it to Cooper Reading (since I wasn't sure about making it as far as Brighton, which is where the only really good CSL tech in the UK dealer network works...). Fairly predictably, they changed the SMG relay, which is the first thing in the book to try, even though the faults I had didn't really match symptoms of a failing relay. It's been fine since. So maybe it was the relay, maybe it was just unhappy about not being driven for 6 months.
A bit more on the road trip to come later.
As I had a big trip to Europe coming up, and I still have the insured warranty, I took it to Cooper Reading (since I wasn't sure about making it as far as Brighton, which is where the only really good CSL tech in the UK dealer network works...). Fairly predictably, they changed the SMG relay, which is the first thing in the book to try, even though the faults I had didn't really match symptoms of a failing relay. It's been fine since. So maybe it was the relay, maybe it was just unhappy about not being driven for 6 months.
A bit more on the road trip to come later.
I was off to see the first round of the WEC at Spa, staying near the circuit for a couple of nights.
Since getting a couple of speeding tickets from automatic cameras last time we were in France, I pretty much stick to the limits on motorways, and the CSL is really quite economical at those speeds. It purrs along at 130kph at just over 3000rpm in 6th, and is perfectly comfortable on quality European tarmac. Not so good in some parts of Belgium where the corrugated concrete made it feel like being inside a washing machine with some rocks thrown in. For the 750 mile round trip, it used just over 2 tanks of fuel, and averaged 31.2mpg. Not bad for a highly tuned petrol engine ! Even a bit of fun blatting round the roads near Spa didn't dent it too much.
Qualification for the race was eventful, due to the horrible crash of Pietro Fittpaldi. I was half way between Eau Rouge and Radillon when it happened. The car was a real mess afterwards, although it looks like they had to cut the tub open to get him out. I wonder if something a bit more scientific than a bunch of used tyres would help avoid injuries.
DPP_5790 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
DPP_5791 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
After that was all cleared up, qualifying continued. If you've only seen Spa on TV, you'll be surprised how steep it is in places:
DPP_5785 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
At any UK racing circuit, it's very unlikely you'd get your dog through the gate. But at Spa, apparently it's OK for marshals to have dogs inside the fence, in the live area of the track !
DPP_5800 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
And if you'd ever wondered what Eau Rouge is, it's a stream that flows in a culvert under the corner of that name:
DPP_5801 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
More to follow.
Since getting a couple of speeding tickets from automatic cameras last time we were in France, I pretty much stick to the limits on motorways, and the CSL is really quite economical at those speeds. It purrs along at 130kph at just over 3000rpm in 6th, and is perfectly comfortable on quality European tarmac. Not so good in some parts of Belgium where the corrugated concrete made it feel like being inside a washing machine with some rocks thrown in. For the 750 mile round trip, it used just over 2 tanks of fuel, and averaged 31.2mpg. Not bad for a highly tuned petrol engine ! Even a bit of fun blatting round the roads near Spa didn't dent it too much.
Qualification for the race was eventful, due to the horrible crash of Pietro Fittpaldi. I was half way between Eau Rouge and Radillon when it happened. The car was a real mess afterwards, although it looks like they had to cut the tub open to get him out. I wonder if something a bit more scientific than a bunch of used tyres would help avoid injuries.
DPP_5790 by tw_tvam, on FlickrDPP_5791 by tw_tvam, on FlickrAfter that was all cleared up, qualifying continued. If you've only seen Spa on TV, you'll be surprised how steep it is in places:
DPP_5785 by tw_tvam, on FlickrAt any UK racing circuit, it's very unlikely you'd get your dog through the gate. But at Spa, apparently it's OK for marshals to have dogs inside the fence, in the live area of the track !
DPP_5800 by tw_tvam, on FlickrAnd if you'd ever wondered what Eau Rouge is, it's a stream that flows in a culvert under the corner of that name:
DPP_5801 by tw_tvam, on FlickrMore to follow.
A couple more bits of road trip blog to finish up:
Stavelot is a nice place to go in the evening, there's quite a few bars and restaurants around, and it's pretty.
IMG_20180504_191401548 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
Rebellion Racing usually have great paint schemes on their cars, and they're back on form after a rather disappointing one last year
DPP_5823 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
Toyota won, as expected, although it was the slower #8 car that won, and it really looked like Toyota engineered a small delay for the #7 near the end.
DPP_5832 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
It must be a novelty for the driver in the middle to actually win something.
DPP_5833 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
Back home, 750 miles done and a lot of insects killed.
DPP_5837 by tw_tvam, on Flickr
Stavelot is a nice place to go in the evening, there's quite a few bars and restaurants around, and it's pretty.
IMG_20180504_191401548 by tw_tvam, on FlickrRebellion Racing usually have great paint schemes on their cars, and they're back on form after a rather disappointing one last year
DPP_5823 by tw_tvam, on FlickrToyota won, as expected, although it was the slower #8 car that won, and it really looked like Toyota engineered a small delay for the #7 near the end.
DPP_5832 by tw_tvam, on FlickrIt must be a novelty for the driver in the middle to actually win something.
DPP_5833 by tw_tvam, on FlickrBack home, 750 miles done and a lot of insects killed.
DPP_5837 by tw_tvam, on FlickrBack on the subject of the 5GT, it doesn't have HIDs, and one or other of the H7 bulbs it requires seems to fail every few months. This wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't such a complete arse-ache to change the bloody things. If they fail in winter, I just let Grosvenor's do them. The access for the bulbs is a flap in the inner arch liner, awkwardly placed so there's just not quite enough room with the wheel fitted to do it easily.
When that flap's off, you then have to get your hand in a restricted area with a bracing stut in the way, and twist the rear cap off the headlight unit. Which then falls down inside the sodding bumper because you can't grip it properly, so you have to take the wheel off anyway to partly take the arch liner off to get the cap out.
Then you have to twist the bulb out, which is almost impossible to do without pliers, and then lever the bulb off the plug, as it's not coming off just using finger power. Installation is the reverse of removal.
That's just the dipped beam, the main beam is further inside the bumper so god knows how you're supposed to get to that ! Maybe you take the whole liner off.
To add insult to injury, the headlights are absolute crap as well, candle inside a biscuit tin would be more effective.
When that flap's off, you then have to get your hand in a restricted area with a bracing stut in the way, and twist the rear cap off the headlight unit. Which then falls down inside the sodding bumper because you can't grip it properly, so you have to take the wheel off anyway to partly take the arch liner off to get the cap out.
Then you have to twist the bulb out, which is almost impossible to do without pliers, and then lever the bulb off the plug, as it's not coming off just using finger power. Installation is the reverse of removal.
That's just the dipped beam, the main beam is further inside the bumper so god knows how you're supposed to get to that ! Maybe you take the whole liner off.
To add insult to injury, the headlights are absolute crap as well, candle inside a biscuit tin would be more effective.
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