605bhp Per Ton 200SX Powered Kitcar
Discussion
StreetDragster said:
Has its been setup/mapped on the rollers before?
I'd say rebuild it, and then post running in, a thoroughly decent setup. If you sell it broken it'll be worth buttons
Matt
Hi Matt, yes all setup and run in on the rollers.I'd say rebuild it, and then post running in, a thoroughly decent setup. If you sell it broken it'll be worth buttons
Matt
Today has been tear down day. A number of physical issues have been found. The cause, thankfully, does not appear to my mapping or tuner related.
First things first, for those of you that saw the drag-race video on the Officially Gassed channel, here is a behind the scenes look of the day -
Right, on to more pressing matters.
I stripped off the inlet, exhaust and cylinder head and found a number of issues.
1 The timing had jumped
2 An injector seal had split
So the head came off.. There was damage inside -
and on the underside
There were some disconcerting marks on the inside of the cambelt which indicates something was wrong, somewhere.
Things escalated quickly from there -
So what's the damage.. I need new piston rings, cylinder head check over and skim, new head gasket, new bearings...new block.
I've had the injectors cleaned - all OK. Cylinder head checked over - all OK.
I've decided to rebuild, again. I did the math and couldn't make it work fitting a different engine to it. I was going to go boosted k20 but I'd have been at least £2k out of pocket over what it will cost to fix this one.
I've decided to take the rebuild to a performance engine builder, rather than relying on friends to do things for me. The engine builder has seen the old engine and noted a few things.
1 - He didn't think the old engine was run in enough; probably right. I only did c. 250 miles before I went to normal oil
2 - He said the map was too rich during the running in period.
3 - The marks on the head and piston are impact damage. This damage caught the edge of the piston crown which in turn damaged the bore, which then caused the compression issues. I've since checked the inlet pipe behind the filter and it's full of all sorts of dirt. My filter is outside the car so almost understandable but I don't want this to happen again. The filter and pipework is being moved and re-made
If you've watched the last video above, you'll also see that my turbo oil restrictor is too big (1.3mm instead of 0.9mm) and my oil drain is also too small (10mm instead of 13.5mm) so both of those will be changed also.
Effectively I'm at the point now where I need to wait and do nothing for four weeks, such is life. Fingers crossed, I should be on the road again mid-January ready to turn up the boost and get it all remapped in February
Right, on to more pressing matters.
I stripped off the inlet, exhaust and cylinder head and found a number of issues.
1 The timing had jumped
2 An injector seal had split
So the head came off.. There was damage inside -
and on the underside
There were some disconcerting marks on the inside of the cambelt which indicates something was wrong, somewhere.
Things escalated quickly from there -
So what's the damage.. I need new piston rings, cylinder head check over and skim, new head gasket, new bearings...new block.
I've had the injectors cleaned - all OK. Cylinder head checked over - all OK.
I've decided to rebuild, again. I did the math and couldn't make it work fitting a different engine to it. I was going to go boosted k20 but I'd have been at least £2k out of pocket over what it will cost to fix this one.
I've decided to take the rebuild to a performance engine builder, rather than relying on friends to do things for me. The engine builder has seen the old engine and noted a few things.
1 - He didn't think the old engine was run in enough; probably right. I only did c. 250 miles before I went to normal oil
2 - He said the map was too rich during the running in period.
3 - The marks on the head and piston are impact damage. This damage caught the edge of the piston crown which in turn damaged the bore, which then caused the compression issues. I've since checked the inlet pipe behind the filter and it's full of all sorts of dirt. My filter is outside the car so almost understandable but I don't want this to happen again. The filter and pipework is being moved and re-made
If you've watched the last video above, you'll also see that my turbo oil restrictor is too big (1.3mm instead of 0.9mm) and my oil drain is also too small (10mm instead of 13.5mm) so both of those will be changed also.
Effectively I'm at the point now where I need to wait and do nothing for four weeks, such is life. Fingers crossed, I should be on the road again mid-January ready to turn up the boost and get it all remapped in February
dave2007bc said:
Turn7 said:
Glad to see you are rebuilding it...
Have you thought about o ringing the head to the boost in?
I did, but it shouldn't be necessary for the amount of power that it's generating.Have you thought about o ringing the head to the boost in?
I think a good quality gasket should be fine, the old school stuff did that was it was uncommon for a 2.0 four to make 400+BHP
5harp3y said:
time for a k20 swap?
As per the video, figures just don't work. Would be a £5-6k outlay minimum plus all the hassle of fitting a new engine, box, prop etc.I know everyone slates the CA but each issue I've had is primarily due to workmanship or specific part failure i.e. injector seal. These aren't CA specific issues.
CAs suffer from spun bearings and oil starvation; not something I've had a problem with and have done the necessary measures to combat it (head return and extended/baffled sump).
Sr20 is also taller and heavier than a CA. Would have exactly the same issues in fitting one as I would a k20.
I should have never forged this, I should have fitted a k20 at that point but alas I didn't. Always difficult to know the point of no return, throwing good money after bad etc.
I can assure PH (and the wife!) this is the last attempt with this engine. If it doesn't work out the parts will be sold and the car will go as a rolling chassis ready for someone else to start their own journey. However I'm very much looking forward to having some garage time over the Winter period so whilst I don't appreciate the cost implications, I am lookin forward to the next stage of ownership, along with joining the 400+ club
5harp3y said:
time for a k20 swap?
I suggested a Saab B204. Few hundred quid to buy and easily capable of 400-500bhp. Bomb proof engines.Apparently any gearbox used with c20xe/let rwd engine conversions will work. E.g Vx Omega.
Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 25th November 19:03
wormus said:
5harp3y said:
time for a k20 swap?
I suggested a Saab B204. Few hundred quid to buy and easily capable of 400bhp. Bomb proof engines.The OP is invested in the CA and wants a final rebuild as economical as possible I would imagine......
Turn7 said:
wormus said:
5harp3y said:
time for a k20 swap?
I suggested a Saab B204. Few hundred quid to buy and easily capable of 400bhp. Bomb proof engines.The OP is invested in the CA and wants a final rebuild as economical as possible I would imagine......
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