Volkswagen Corrado G60
Discussion
aka_kerrly said:
That's amazing. I saw the Corrado in thornbury as it's just down the road from me and was going to pick it up for the sake of it.
Then I saw your post and tried to find it again on Facebook and it has gone.
So glad that the doors an hopefully you got some other bits as there was so much good stuff still on that shell
He's still got other bits of the shell, but it really was a good straight car with no rot. Seems a shame in some ways, but it will keep the G60 on the road. Eventually.Then I saw your post and tried to find it again on Facebook and it has gone.
So glad that the doors an hopefully you got some other bits as there was so much good stuff still on that shell
The insurance company are paying out cash in lieu of repairs, as they won't fix it at the dealer or write it off. So, I now need to try and transfer the door mechanism internals over, then get it repaired and sprayed.
This is having to take a back seat, as we still don't have a working 4 wheeled vehicle. The V5 loan car developed a lambda sensor fault (which it turns out its had for a while), but then bust a CV joint resulting in a severe shimmy. We fixed that, so it dropped one of the coil packs and started running on 4 cylinders. That's on order, so then the central locking unit has packed up (possibly the CCM).
There is currently no engine or gearbox in the AX, so we're on a loan Passat from the awesome chap at the garage.
Hopefully some positive progress soon!
The insurance company have paid out, and while we're a long way from getting fixed, I thought I'd make some progress on the Corrado.
If I can get the doors swapped over and the window bonded in, I can at least drive it again regardless of paint. This is in no way related to the fact the the V5 seemed to break something else every time I touched it.... 3 duff coil packs and a possible CCM failure! At least the ZZR passed its MOT!
So, door card off and the good news is that the doors and looms are internally the same, just the replacement has a manual window mechanism :
As far as I can tell, it's *just* a matter of drilling out the rivets on both mechanisms and swapping them over. While fighting with the door glass etc! Luckily, the glass and lifting mechanism seem to same, it's just what powers it! I will no doubt be proved wrong, but will hopefully make some more progress over the weekend.
If I can get the doors swapped over and the window bonded in, I can at least drive it again regardless of paint. This is in no way related to the fact the the V5 seemed to break something else every time I touched it.... 3 duff coil packs and a possible CCM failure! At least the ZZR passed its MOT!
So, door card off and the good news is that the doors and looms are internally the same, just the replacement has a manual window mechanism :
As far as I can tell, it's *just* a matter of drilling out the rivets on both mechanisms and swapping them over. While fighting with the door glass etc! Luckily, the glass and lifting mechanism seem to same, it's just what powers it! I will no doubt be proved wrong, but will hopefully make some more progress over the weekend.
Thanks @eddiecatflap, I agree, there are some arse holes out there.... Unfortunately my major worry is that I get it back on the road.... then it happens again.
However, the first step of that, is getting it on the road - some small progress there today (after fighting with a ZZR1100C that REALLY didn't want to give up its filter).
Undo 2 10mm bolts to separate the window glass and mounting from the mechanism (having lowered the window using mole grips in my case) :
Then, if the door has no internal rubbing strips (or you've removed them), once you've popped the lifting arms from the plastic rollers, you can lift the glass out - largest end first.
Alternatively, if you didn't have a manual (or had it but didn't read it), you can leave the rubbing strips in place, tape the glass up and struggle with it. See page 5 for details....
After that, it's 3 rivets to drill out for the winding mechanism and 2 for the vertical strip that holds the lifting bar in place. All use a 5mm drill bit - careful not to let that hit the outer skin of the door when the rivet gives up
In my case, or was 2 for the mechanism and 1 and a 3mm hex for the vertical bar. I suspect that when this door was green, it had electric windows and was converted to manual when someone changed its colour.
Then fold up the arms and remove the mechanism.
All credit to the Lindsay Porter manual for this, there's a how-to section. Previously I've found the manual difficult to use in places, but the tip about the glass was spot on.
Right, having been fettling cars and bikes for most of the long weekend it's time for a rest.
Ah well, back to fettling bridges instead in lieu of that!
However, the first step of that, is getting it on the road - some small progress there today (after fighting with a ZZR1100C that REALLY didn't want to give up its filter).
Undo 2 10mm bolts to separate the window glass and mounting from the mechanism (having lowered the window using mole grips in my case) :
Then, if the door has no internal rubbing strips (or you've removed them), once you've popped the lifting arms from the plastic rollers, you can lift the glass out - largest end first.
Alternatively, if you didn't have a manual (or had it but didn't read it), you can leave the rubbing strips in place, tape the glass up and struggle with it. See page 5 for details....
After that, it's 3 rivets to drill out for the winding mechanism and 2 for the vertical strip that holds the lifting bar in place. All use a 5mm drill bit - careful not to let that hit the outer skin of the door when the rivet gives up
In my case, or was 2 for the mechanism and 1 and a 3mm hex for the vertical bar. I suspect that when this door was green, it had electric windows and was converted to manual when someone changed its colour.
Then fold up the arms and remove the mechanism.
All credit to the Lindsay Porter manual for this, there's a how-to section. Previously I've found the manual difficult to use in places, but the tip about the glass was spot on.
Right, having been fettling cars and bikes for most of the long weekend it's time for a rest.
Ah well, back to fettling bridges instead in lieu of that!
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Monday 5th April 19:16
bristolbaron said:
That it is! Your looks tidy (nice backdrop too) - your username rings a bell from the Corrado forum many years ago if I recall correctly?Right, buoyed by the assistance of all on here, I might have a crack at getting one of the doors off tonight.
A productive few hours...
I supported the base of the door using axle stands, and getting the bolts out would be the easy part.. .15mm for the main door bolts, and a 10mm & 13mm for the restraint bar.
The tricky part is finding, tracing and removing the wiring....
The connectors are above the fuse box for the driver's door, and access is a lot easier if you remove a load of trim and unhook the box from its mountings:
Once you have access to the connectors, you can label them up, unplug them and feed them back through the a pillar. Tempting add it might be to yank on the central locking hose, I decided that was a bad idea....
With that done, you can unbolt it and move it next to its replacement. Then realise that the two looms are different, and add swapping them over to the list of things to do.
I supported the base of the door using axle stands, and getting the bolts out would be the easy part.. .15mm for the main door bolts, and a 10mm & 13mm for the restraint bar.
The tricky part is finding, tracing and removing the wiring....
The connectors are above the fuse box for the driver's door, and access is a lot easier if you remove a load of trim and unhook the box from its mountings:
Once you have access to the connectors, you can label them up, unplug them and feed them back through the a pillar. Tempting add it might be to yank on the central locking hose, I decided that was a bad idea....
With that done, you can unbolt it and move it next to its replacement. Then realise that the two looms are different, and add swapping them over to the list of things to do.
darkyoung1000 said:
That it is! Your looks tidy (nice backdrop too) - your username rings a bell from the Corrado forum many years ago if I recall correctly?
Right, buoyed by the assistance of all on here, I might have a crack at getting one of the doors off tonight.
Good from afar, far from good! Creative angles to avoid showing the completed blistered lacquer on the bonnet for now. Right, buoyed by the assistance of all on here, I might have a crack at getting one of the doors off tonight.
the whole thing could do with a respray, but it’s gradually getting there. I joined CF in 2004! 11 C’s on and I’m still tinkering.
The first G60 out at MIVW..
The R32..
The Citroen has been taking up most of my time at weekends, so little progress on the Corrado of late.
However, I've managed to take the loom out of the old door and add the relevant parts to the replacement door.
Drill out the rivets holding in the manual window mechanism and remove it, then do the same for the electric one.... and realise that it had been damaged in the past, possibly by the attempted theft.
I successfully plastic welded the three pieces back together, then realised that the rest of the mechanism required attention. This took many hours, and has so for proved fruitless. If I can get the cable back in the correct place, I'm still going to need a repair kit, as one of the outer cable sheaths has snapped. Then of course, I need to find one the correct length.
I can get a replacement mechanism for it, but essentially am baulking at the cost and the fact that any delay in getting it back on the road, is to be avoided. I've therefore decided after a lot of internal umming and ahhing to keep the manual windows (the winding mechanism comes out in the same place as the window switch), live with the door cards for now, and take my time fixing the electric mechanism at a later date.
this may or may not happen of course....
However, I have a set of proper manual lifters which were substantially cheaper than an entire electric mechanism, and have spent this evening reinstalling the manual one that I'd previously removed.
Plenty of grease prior to installation.
Then riveted in place:
The trickiest part of it, removing the window scraper seals like they were made of toxin infused fine blown glass! £600 for a NOS pair is not a place I want to find myself....
Of course, I'd already taken them off once and installed them on the replacement door before realising that the painter would have to take them off anyway.... To anyone doing this by the way, a set of bicycle tyre levers (plastic ones) will do the trick. It's a lot easier without the mechanism in there if course, you can just lift your arm up the inside of the door and gently pry the aluminium strip from the door, working your way along until enough of it is lifted up to allow more manipulation.
Reinstalling is just a matter of gently reattaching it, ask me how I know!
However, I've managed to take the loom out of the old door and add the relevant parts to the replacement door.
Drill out the rivets holding in the manual window mechanism and remove it, then do the same for the electric one.... and realise that it had been damaged in the past, possibly by the attempted theft.
I successfully plastic welded the three pieces back together, then realised that the rest of the mechanism required attention. This took many hours, and has so for proved fruitless. If I can get the cable back in the correct place, I'm still going to need a repair kit, as one of the outer cable sheaths has snapped. Then of course, I need to find one the correct length.
I can get a replacement mechanism for it, but essentially am baulking at the cost and the fact that any delay in getting it back on the road, is to be avoided. I've therefore decided after a lot of internal umming and ahhing to keep the manual windows (the winding mechanism comes out in the same place as the window switch), live with the door cards for now, and take my time fixing the electric mechanism at a later date.
this may or may not happen of course....
However, I have a set of proper manual lifters which were substantially cheaper than an entire electric mechanism, and have spent this evening reinstalling the manual one that I'd previously removed.
Plenty of grease prior to installation.
Then riveted in place:
The trickiest part of it, removing the window scraper seals like they were made of toxin infused fine blown glass! £600 for a NOS pair is not a place I want to find myself....
Of course, I'd already taken them off once and installed them on the replacement door before realising that the painter would have to take them off anyway.... To anyone doing this by the way, a set of bicycle tyre levers (plastic ones) will do the trick. It's a lot easier without the mechanism in there if course, you can just lift your arm up the inside of the door and gently pry the aluminium strip from the door, working your way along until enough of it is lifted up to allow more manipulation.
Reinstalling is just a matter of gently reattaching it, ask me how I know!
Hi,
Glad to see you were not deterred by the few low life's who unfortunately also inhabit this planet with us, hope you can get the doors sorted out, not an easy task, will you replace the hinges / pins at same time whilst the doors are off?
i have a question about your unfortunate forced stop on page-13, where the Fuel pump relay failed, you mentioned replacing the failed relay with Meyle 1008009009, but I am confused as I looked at my own G60 , the Fuel Pump relay which is located in fusebox Relay position 12, the OEM relay is labelled "80",(Part Nr:191906383) , and comparing that against the Meyle 1008009009, the pin out appears to be reversed, from my investigation I believe the replacement for the G60 relay 191906383 should be a Meyle:100 906 0001, which has the correct pin orientation, am I missing something?
My own G60 is a 1992 year, been off road for 10 years, but I hope to have it back on soon, f.y.i, I used your fuel pump replacement article as a guide to replace my original Pierburg in tank pump (as when I last had the car on the road it hesitated under full load acceleration sometimes) , luckily I had a original type VDO unit supplied by VW that I had bought 10+ years ago.
Glad to see you were not deterred by the few low life's who unfortunately also inhabit this planet with us, hope you can get the doors sorted out, not an easy task, will you replace the hinges / pins at same time whilst the doors are off?
i have a question about your unfortunate forced stop on page-13, where the Fuel pump relay failed, you mentioned replacing the failed relay with Meyle 1008009009, but I am confused as I looked at my own G60 , the Fuel Pump relay which is located in fusebox Relay position 12, the OEM relay is labelled "80",(Part Nr:191906383) , and comparing that against the Meyle 1008009009, the pin out appears to be reversed, from my investigation I believe the replacement for the G60 relay 191906383 should be a Meyle:100 906 0001, which has the correct pin orientation, am I missing something?
My own G60 is a 1992 year, been off road for 10 years, but I hope to have it back on soon, f.y.i, I used your fuel pump replacement article as a guide to replace my original Pierburg in tank pump (as when I last had the car on the road it hesitated under full load acceleration sometimes) , luckily I had a original type VDO unit supplied by VW that I had bought 10+ years ago.
Twinbeltg60 said:
Hi,
Glad to see you were not deterred by the few low life's who unfortunately also inhabit this planet with us, hope you can get the doors sorted out, not an easy task, will you replace the hinges / pins at same time whilst the doors are off?
i have a question about your unfortunate forced stop on page-13, where the Fuel pump relay failed, you mentioned replacing the failed relay with Meyle 1008009009, but I am confused as I looked at my own G60 , the Fuel Pump relay which is located in fusebox Relay position 12, the OEM relay is labelled "80",(Part Nr:191906383) , and comparing that against the Meyle 1008009009, the pin out appears to be reversed, from my investigation I believe the replacement for the G60 relay 191906383 should be a Meyle:100 906 0001, which has the correct pin orientation, am I missing something?
My own G60 is a 1992 year, been off road for 10 years, but I hope to have it back on soon, f.y.i, I used your fuel pump replacement article as a guide to replace my original Pierburg in tank pump (as when I last had the car on the road it hesitated under full load acceleration sometimes) , luckily I had a original type VDO unit supplied by VW that I had bought 10+ years ago.
Hi Twinbeltg60, apologies for the delay in replying, glad the fuel pump replacement guide was useful! Glad to see you were not deterred by the few low life's who unfortunately also inhabit this planet with us, hope you can get the doors sorted out, not an easy task, will you replace the hinges / pins at same time whilst the doors are off?
i have a question about your unfortunate forced stop on page-13, where the Fuel pump relay failed, you mentioned replacing the failed relay with Meyle 1008009009, but I am confused as I looked at my own G60 , the Fuel Pump relay which is located in fusebox Relay position 12, the OEM relay is labelled "80",(Part Nr:191906383) , and comparing that against the Meyle 1008009009, the pin out appears to be reversed, from my investigation I believe the replacement for the G60 relay 191906383 should be a Meyle:100 906 0001, which has the correct pin orientation, am I missing something?
My own G60 is a 1992 year, been off road for 10 years, but I hope to have it back on soon, f.y.i, I used your fuel pump replacement article as a guide to replace my original Pierburg in tank pump (as when I last had the car on the road it hesitated under full load acceleration sometimes) , luckily I had a original type VDO unit supplied by VW that I had bought 10+ years ago.
Have you got a thread going on yours yet? Always good to see more G60s back on the road.
I may well have got the part number wrong, I'll double check next time I'm in the fuse box (sometime this week I hope).
I want going to do the door pins... but having fitted the replacement today, and felt it drop., I may well change my mind.
Still, the door is on, so I'm going to say that's progress on a wet Bank Holiday.
Hi,
Yes maybe I should start a thread, but that would mean regular updates, and I am a bit intermittent in my restoration !
Anyway, to remind me what i am aiming for underneath of my Corrado, I was looking for pics of under her skirts, happened across a G60 for sale in Germany on Mobile.De site, for 24,500 euro (!),
Its advertiser / seller site is: https://www.autohaus-kasselmann.de/fahrzeuge/jahre... , look for VW, Corrado, check out the pics, car is simply stunning / as new, won't achieve that, but at least I have something to work to, will attach a couple of sample pics.![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/A9B5Gq2N.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/ECfeoVM1" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/ECfeoVM1.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/YZcwgKop" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/YZcwgKop.jpg)
Yes maybe I should start a thread, but that would mean regular updates, and I am a bit intermittent in my restoration !
Anyway, to remind me what i am aiming for underneath of my Corrado, I was looking for pics of under her skirts, happened across a G60 for sale in Germany on Mobile.De site, for 24,500 euro (!),
Its advertiser / seller site is: https://www.autohaus-kasselmann.de/fahrzeuge/jahre... , look for VW, Corrado, check out the pics, car is simply stunning / as new, won't achieve that, but at least I have something to work to, will attach a couple of sample pics.
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