Volkswagen Corrado G60
Discussion
Just read your thread from start to finish 
. Used to own a green G60 a good few years back and had great fun driving it. Unfortunately it had to come off the road for some rust repairs and soon after i broke up with my girlfriend and moved house meaning the car had to come out of the garage and sit on my parents driveway during winter time. Id just replaced the n/s side sill but there was no paint on it and i had no money to finish it so sadly it had to be scrapped. I did salvage the brakes and supercharger which will be getting fitted to a mk1 golf 16vg60 conversion im close to completing. Im in yorkshire also so if your looking for any corrado bits and bobs or advice on building a 16vg60 give me a shout. Sorry to hijack the thread by the way, be good to see your car sometime if you go to any shows
. Used to own a green G60 a good few years back and had great fun driving it. Unfortunately it had to come off the road for some rust repairs and soon after i broke up with my girlfriend and moved house meaning the car had to come out of the garage and sit on my parents driveway during winter time. Id just replaced the n/s side sill but there was no paint on it and i had no money to finish it so sadly it had to be scrapped. I did salvage the brakes and supercharger which will be getting fitted to a mk1 golf 16vg60 conversion im close to completing. Im in yorkshire also so if your looking for any corrado bits and bobs or advice on building a 16vg60 give me a shout. Sorry to hijack the thread by the way, be good to see your car sometime if you go to any shows Edited by daniboy123 on Wednesday 26th April 17:43
darkyoung1000 said:
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I hate replacing the ignition switch, the last time I did it was a while ago and I'd forgotten the exact contortions required, remembering it only as a sod of a job. Glad my memory isn't failing at least.
In summary, you need to remove the plastic trim under the steering column, and then remove one screw to replace the ignition switch. Easy right? No, not really.
It is a pig of a job isn't it. I've made myself a screwdriver with a kink in it after doing 3 or 4 of them.I hate replacing the ignition switch, the last time I did it was a while ago and I'd forgotten the exact contortions required, remembering it only as a sod of a job. Glad my memory isn't failing at least.
In summary, you need to remove the plastic trim under the steering column, and then remove one screw to replace the ignition switch. Easy right? No, not really.
How was the G60 out on track? Oil temperatures can get a little scary when you don't have an additional oil cooler fitted.
@daniboy123, sorry to hear of your loss, but nice to see another Yorkshire G60 fan, hopefully meet up with you and others at a show/meet somewhere. I usually make the Malton Breakfast meet in the autumn (although I was on the bike this year)
@aka_kerrly the track experience was excellent thanks. Really highlights the handling flaws of a standard FWD road car, which is exactly what I was after. Best place to find the limits is at a soaking wet Snetterton! The oil temperatures were fine, never really got higher than 100. I was determined to not take it out on track until I had the fitted the oil cooler, a decision that I'm glad about! Have seen temperatures of 120 on a steady dual carriageway run before firing it, it was always high on my list!
Will hopefully get some more work done on it before the Letter Man's trip this year....
Cheers,
Tom
@aka_kerrly the track experience was excellent thanks. Really highlights the handling flaws of a standard FWD road car, which is exactly what I was after. Best place to find the limits is at a soaking wet Snetterton! The oil temperatures were fine, never really got higher than 100. I was determined to not take it out on track until I had the fitted the oil cooler, a decision that I'm glad about! Have seen temperatures of 120 on a steady dual carriageway run before firing it, it was always high on my list!
Will hopefully get some more work done on it before the Letter Man's trip this year....
Cheers,
Tom
Sounds good. Ive not been to the malton breakfast meet before, does it attract a good gathering?. There was a run out over the yorkshire moors organised by the corrado club a few years back that i attended in my black vr6. Great fun!. My VR6 is now in need of attention but hopefully ill be back on the road soon with it . Is your corrado on the road for this summer then?
. Is your corrado on the road for this summer then?daniboy123 said:
Sounds good. Ive not been to the malton breakfast meet before, does it attract a good gathering?. There was a run out over the yorkshire moors organised by the corrado club a few years back that i attended in my black vr6. Great fun!. My VR6 is now in need of attention but hopefully ill be back on the road soon with it . Is your corrado on the road for this summer then?
Terribly sorry, I just realised I hadn't replied to your post, my apologies.. Is your corrado on the road for this summer then?Yes the Breakfast Meet usually attracts a good crowd, this year's was better than the last couple in my opinion though. It had a really good range of interesting high end stuff. Glad to hear your VR6 is coming along, how much more have got got to do?
My G60 is on the road year round...but I cycle most places in York, so it's mainly for the times 2 wheels aren't practical. As the work shed that was the Astra has just expired, it may be seeing a little more road though.
It was pressed into service today to do a spot of car shuffling as I have a mate coming down this week with his car to be worked on, and needed the garage space...
After a very pleasant day looking at cars hillclimbing at Harewood, it was time to do a job on the Corrado I'd been putting off for a while - the passenger window.
It's never been right, as it never fully returned to the closed position - enough to keep the rain out while moving, but I'm pretty sure it was contributing to water ingress in the cabin. More importantly though was the fact that if I forgot to not use it (or brief my passengers) then an unscheduled stop at the first layby had to be implemented, so that a both hand lift could fully put it back in the closed position.
I'd previously had a look, found nothing I could fix immediately and bought a secondhand window mechanism to get round to fitting at some point. That was today. There are some guides on the the Corrado Forum and VW Vortex which proved useful starts and I'm not planning on replicating those - this is just to document what I did (and what was different from the guides).
I'll be honest, it's a fiddly job, with lots of swearing, head scratching and manipulation of parts by touch...
The door with the doorcard off
The rivets holding the window motor to the door....all seems simple, right? Just drill these 3 and the other 4 holding the upright that supports the window itself to remove the mechanism.
You need to move the window up and down quite a lot as part of the process in order to get the mechanism in, but stopping it dropping unexpectedly is a good idea.
This makes it look easier than it was.... The entire metallic upright needs to be rotated by 45 degrees and fitted past the window without scratching it. It's worse putting the new one it, as you have to not break any of the plastic clips.
The guides have you clamp the rubber damping washers attached to the motor in a vice, and drill the metal washer off. I decided to practice on the old motor, it didn't go well. Effectively there is a stud in the body of the motor which holds the rubber washer into which the long rivet body is held. If you don't have any long rivets, you need to find a different solution...
Here's the body of the long rivet that you're trying to get out.
The alternative solution that I used was to take a sharp knife, cut under the metal washer without removing it completely, dig out the remains of the rivet that I had drilled the head off and install a captive nut in the body of the bush. Superglue puts the metal washer back on the bush. You're then left with a motor looking like this.
Which sits back into the door like this. The other four could be riveted back on OK as they don't need the longer rivets.
All in all, it took about 3 hours, most of that was down to the manipulation of the mechanism inside the door. I've yet to road test it to see if the whistle has gone, but the initial seating position of the window is much better than it was. Tomorrow will tell...
Cheers,
Tom
It's never been right, as it never fully returned to the closed position - enough to keep the rain out while moving, but I'm pretty sure it was contributing to water ingress in the cabin. More importantly though was the fact that if I forgot to not use it (or brief my passengers) then an unscheduled stop at the first layby had to be implemented, so that a both hand lift could fully put it back in the closed position.
I'd previously had a look, found nothing I could fix immediately and bought a secondhand window mechanism to get round to fitting at some point. That was today. There are some guides on the the Corrado Forum and VW Vortex which proved useful starts and I'm not planning on replicating those - this is just to document what I did (and what was different from the guides).
I'll be honest, it's a fiddly job, with lots of swearing, head scratching and manipulation of parts by touch...
The door with the doorcard off
The rivets holding the window motor to the door....all seems simple, right? Just drill these 3 and the other 4 holding the upright that supports the window itself to remove the mechanism.
You need to move the window up and down quite a lot as part of the process in order to get the mechanism in, but stopping it dropping unexpectedly is a good idea.
This makes it look easier than it was.... The entire metallic upright needs to be rotated by 45 degrees and fitted past the window without scratching it. It's worse putting the new one it, as you have to not break any of the plastic clips.
The guides have you clamp the rubber damping washers attached to the motor in a vice, and drill the metal washer off. I decided to practice on the old motor, it didn't go well. Effectively there is a stud in the body of the motor which holds the rubber washer into which the long rivet body is held. If you don't have any long rivets, you need to find a different solution...
Here's the body of the long rivet that you're trying to get out.
The alternative solution that I used was to take a sharp knife, cut under the metal washer without removing it completely, dig out the remains of the rivet that I had drilled the head off and install a captive nut in the body of the bush. Superglue puts the metal washer back on the bush. You're then left with a motor looking like this.
Which sits back into the door like this. The other four could be riveted back on OK as they don't need the longer rivets.
All in all, it took about 3 hours, most of that was down to the manipulation of the mechanism inside the door. I've yet to road test it to see if the whistle has gone, but the initial seating position of the window is much better than it was. Tomorrow will tell...
Cheers,
Tom
Good news - the whistle is fixed!
Bad news, I got a slow puncture 5 days before we're due to head off to Le Mans. Sound chaps at Just Tyres in York have another on order for me, and have plugged the hole as a short term measure (it's too close to the shoulder to entertain as a permanent repair.
I'm hoping that it arrives before Wednesday....still I have a spare and a an of tyre sealant
I also thought that the top mounts had been ignored for long enough, and decided to tackle them too. It's not too bad, it just needs 2 special tools, neither of which I have... I didn't know this before I set out of course.
You'll need: 18mm socket for the suspension strut to driveshaft housing, and a 22mm very slimline ring spanner and a 6mm allen key. You'll also need a 2 pronged (about 15mm apart) tool for unwinding the top mount to shock connection.
Alternatively, you'll need some bad language, knowledge of the laws of physics and an air driven impact wrench (22mm).
You'll also need spring compressors, regardless of your chosen method of removing the suspension strut.
Up she goes
Spring compressors on
Undo these (18mm for the nut, 19mm for the bolt)
This wont work as the top of the shock rotates. A 22mm ring spanner that I went out and bought wont work either as it's too large to fit in the surround.
If you jack up the wishbone so the shell is holding everything in place though, the air gun will do it
And this is what it looks like when it's out
All nicely compressed.
In order to get the castellated nut out, you can improvise either by drifting it out (1 side needed this), or by using a pair or needle nose pliers to hold the nut in place, and the 6mm allen key/socket to remove the shock.
Refitting as they say, is the reverse of removal.... Tightening it up with the air gun made me feel rather dirty, I think the special tool is required just to make sure it's been done properly.
Hopefully get the wheel alignment done once the new tyre is on, then Le Mans or bust!
Cheers,
Tom
Bad news, I got a slow puncture 5 days before we're due to head off to Le Mans. Sound chaps at Just Tyres in York have another on order for me, and have plugged the hole as a short term measure (it's too close to the shoulder to entertain as a permanent repair.
I'm hoping that it arrives before Wednesday....still I have a spare and a an of tyre sealant
I also thought that the top mounts had been ignored for long enough, and decided to tackle them too. It's not too bad, it just needs 2 special tools, neither of which I have... I didn't know this before I set out of course.
You'll need: 18mm socket for the suspension strut to driveshaft housing, and a 22mm very slimline ring spanner and a 6mm allen key. You'll also need a 2 pronged (about 15mm apart) tool for unwinding the top mount to shock connection.
Alternatively, you'll need some bad language, knowledge of the laws of physics and an air driven impact wrench (22mm).
You'll also need spring compressors, regardless of your chosen method of removing the suspension strut.
Up she goes
Spring compressors on
Undo these (18mm for the nut, 19mm for the bolt)
This wont work as the top of the shock rotates. A 22mm ring spanner that I went out and bought wont work either as it's too large to fit in the surround.
If you jack up the wishbone so the shell is holding everything in place though, the air gun will do it
And this is what it looks like when it's out
All nicely compressed.
In order to get the castellated nut out, you can improvise either by drifting it out (1 side needed this), or by using a pair or needle nose pliers to hold the nut in place, and the 6mm allen key/socket to remove the shock.
Refitting as they say, is the reverse of removal.... Tightening it up with the air gun made me feel rather dirty, I think the special tool is required just to make sure it's been done properly.
Hopefully get the wheel alignment done once the new tyre is on, then Le Mans or bust!
Cheers,
Tom
Always good to get an update on this. When I did the same job on my old Mk2 Golf I got a 22mm ring spanner and ground a bit off the back of the ring below the elbow (if that makes sense) and was then able to fit it into the well so I could use the allen key.
I hope the LM trip is a success.
I hope the LM trip is a success.
Did the top mounts on mine a while back, even with a swan neck spanner in was a PITA!
It'd be worth investigating the change over to mk3 golf style top mounts, as they're a lot more hardwearing than that style - the G60's had higher rated mounts than normal due to the increased weight of the engine with the charger. The VR6's used a wholly different set up.
I changed mine when I recommissioned my G60 in 2014 with some pattern ones and around 10k miles after that in 2016 they were well and truly done.
You been to le mans before? Always half wanted to go but never sure it was worth it...
It'd be worth investigating the change over to mk3 golf style top mounts, as they're a lot more hardwearing than that style - the G60's had higher rated mounts than normal due to the increased weight of the engine with the charger. The VR6's used a wholly different set up.
I changed mine when I recommissioned my G60 in 2014 with some pattern ones and around 10k miles after that in 2016 they were well and truly done.
You been to le mans before? Always half wanted to go but never sure it was worth it...
Tinkerton said:
Did the top mounts on mine a while back, even with a swan neck spanner in was a PITA!
It'd be worth investigating the change over to mk3 golf style top mounts, as they're a lot more hardwearing than that style - the G60's had higher rated mounts than normal due to the increased weight of the engine with the charger. The VR6's used a wholly different set up.
I changed mine when I recommissioned my G60 in 2014 with some pattern ones and around 10k miles after that in 2016 they were well and truly done.
You been to le mans before? Always half wanted to go but never sure it was worth it...
If you upgrade to the mk3 style top mounts you can get meyle HD ones (labelled as for Galaxy/Sharan) which are even beefier. Did that on my old B3 Passat which is basically a long wheelbase Corrado. Only downside is they make the front end sit about 10mm higher.It'd be worth investigating the change over to mk3 golf style top mounts, as they're a lot more hardwearing than that style - the G60's had higher rated mounts than normal due to the increased weight of the engine with the charger. The VR6's used a wholly different set up.
I changed mine when I recommissioned my G60 in 2014 with some pattern ones and around 10k miles after that in 2016 they were well and truly done.
You been to le mans before? Always half wanted to go but never sure it was worth it...
Thanks for all the positive comments and also the tips on which top mounts to use next time (as I'm sure there'll be a next time....)
Sounds like the Mk3 ones may be worth a look as I can live with the front end up by 10mm if it means having to do this particular job fewer times!
The ones I fitted were the G60 ones from VW Heritage, so time will tell.
@Cambs_Stuart - if you get the opportunity, it's worth taking the plunge. There are faster, more reliable, prettier and more capable cars out there....but they can get under your skin in a way that I've yet to find any other car doing. Best if you don't mind wielding a spanner though.
@Tinkerton & @gforceg - thanks for the Le Mans wishes. This is my 4th regular Le Mans (3 Le Mans Classics too), and to anyone who's not been I recommend it. Most of the fun is in who you go with - like minded motorsport enthusiasts with a taste for beer and camping means you'll have a blast. If you want a more gentle taste of the atmosphere without the full madness, try the classic first. In terms of value for money, you can't beat it - with a cheap ferry you can get down there, in and back for about the same price as a F1 weekend at SIlverstone. If you can't be bothered with driving, the Eurostar/TGV combo is also very good value.
My only concern is that in the convoy I will be the oldest car there by 24 years and I haven't had time to fix the power steering leak, metallic plate under the radiator or change the coolant hoses. What could possibly go wrong
Cheers,
Tom
Sounds like the Mk3 ones may be worth a look as I can live with the front end up by 10mm if it means having to do this particular job fewer times!
The ones I fitted were the G60 ones from VW Heritage, so time will tell.
@Cambs_Stuart - if you get the opportunity, it's worth taking the plunge. There are faster, more reliable, prettier and more capable cars out there....but they can get under your skin in a way that I've yet to find any other car doing. Best if you don't mind wielding a spanner though.
@Tinkerton & @gforceg - thanks for the Le Mans wishes. This is my 4th regular Le Mans (3 Le Mans Classics too), and to anyone who's not been I recommend it. Most of the fun is in who you go with - like minded motorsport enthusiasts with a taste for beer and camping means you'll have a blast. If you want a more gentle taste of the atmosphere without the full madness, try the classic first. In terms of value for money, you can't beat it - with a cheap ferry you can get down there, in and back for about the same price as a F1 weekend at SIlverstone. If you can't be bothered with driving, the Eurostar/TGV combo is also very good value.
My only concern is that in the convoy I will be the oldest car there by 24 years and I haven't had time to fix the power steering leak, metallic plate under the radiator or change the coolant hoses. What could possibly go wrong
Cheers,
Tom
Great thread mate. I'm also another one that has just binge-read the whole thing. Good to see you havnt lost enthusiasm about tackling the fiddly jobs too. I'm also a VW enthusiast. Have a (one day) ABF powered mk2 golf under a nut and bolt resto. I'll look forward to see how she does at le mans.
Made it down yesterday with no new issues, I'll take that as a result.
Some good plays on the French roads with friends and strangers alike, and a cracking convoy with a MK2 Scirocco (also J reg and in black) for a good few miles was a highlight. Especially as they were in the ferry queue with us!
Now in Maison Blanche with beer. Result!
Cheers,
Tom
Some good plays on the French roads with friends and strangers alike, and a cracking convoy with a MK2 Scirocco (also J reg and in black) for a good few miles was a highlight. Especially as they were in the ferry queue with us!
Now in Maison Blanche with beer. Result!
Cheers,
Tom
Knew I recognised the reg! someone posted a pic of you in one of the corrado facebook groups.
I'm off to france mid august with the wife and inlaws, looking forward to it. not had a proper holiday in far too long.
I was in a convoy with mine last year of my '91 G60, a 93 (i think) MR2 turbo, a mk1 MX5, and a mk3.5 MX5.
And it was the newest car that broke
(he tried to update the map he had and accidentally disconnected the plug halfway. At a petrol station. Halfway through belgium.)
Mine was bob on but did highlight the need for new strut mounts, and afterwards we found that my piston rings were norked, which meant that the fact I even got to the 'Ring, let alone around it, was most impressive!
I'm off to france mid august with the wife and inlaws, looking forward to it. not had a proper holiday in far too long.
I was in a convoy with mine last year of my '91 G60, a 93 (i think) MR2 turbo, a mk1 MX5, and a mk3.5 MX5.
And it was the newest car that broke
(he tried to update the map he had and accidentally disconnected the plug halfway. At a petrol station. Halfway through belgium.)Mine was bob on but did highlight the need for new strut mounts, and afterwards we found that my piston rings were norked, which meant that the fact I even got to the 'Ring, let alone around it, was most impressive!
Inspired by the spirit of Le Mans, a little bit of tinkering went on while waiting for the race to start. I hate electrical gremlins, but a lot of them can be traced back to poor earths (especially on Suzuki's....).
This being the case, in the heat of the midday sun, the other half and I cleaned all of the easily accessible earth points:
Behind the battery tray, attached to the starter motor and in front of the bulkhead on the driver's side by the engine mount.
A nice offer of assistance from one of the Carrera cup mechanics, and hopefully a trip that will stay where it's supposed to...
This being the case, in the heat of the midday sun, the other half and I cleaned all of the easily accessible earth points:
Behind the battery tray, attached to the starter motor and in front of the bulkhead on the driver's side by the engine mount.
A nice offer of assistance from one of the Carrera cup mechanics, and hopefully a trip that will stay where it's supposed to...
The trip back from Le Mans was mostly uneventful, the earth cleaning seemed to have fixed the trip resetting, and has had an improvement on the needle flicker... More work required on the less accessible earths I think.
Speaking of mostly uneventful and less accessible, somewhere North of Rouen, the temperature warning light came on. This was due to the coolant level bring low . A sealed system shouldn't use coolant, so it's got to be going somewhere, and coincidentally, there's a whiff of coolant in the cabin. Could this be the heater matrix...? Oh joy.
It's also using a bit of oil, so other possibilities should be considered as well... Not down on power, no sign of mayo in the oil, and no oil in the coolant. Excellent, so probably not the Head Gasket or the oil coolers then. Oh wait, there's a separate oil weep from the supercharger area, well we'll come back to that...
Now, about that heater matrix... A job that it seems according to the forum, is as much a pain in the arse as it is inevitable. This is my first in having had 4 Corrados though, do maybe I'm lucky.
Changing it is a doddle... Getting to it however, isn't.
You don't have to take the entire dashboard out, there are several good guides out there on various fora, but in a nutshell, the glove compartment and centre part of the dash need to come out.
This isn't too bad, needing mostly a Phillips screwdriver and a new spine once you've finished lying upside down in the passenger footwell.
Once you've pulled a lot of the air ducting out, you can then remove the heater matrix hoses, and undo the bolts holding the heater matrix housing in place. This is the really difficult part.
There are 3 to remove, one which holds the fan motor assembly on and is behind the expansion tank.
That's the easy one, the other two are practically in the centre of the engine bay, one in line with the coil, and one lower down in the heat shield. This bottom one is subject to road spray and is reluctant to be removed. If it turns in the plastic housing of the heater box, you'll need to get a 19mm spanner on the back.
This will involve contortion and bad language.
Eventually however, it will come out and then you can get at the matrix itself. Only to find that you've been sent one for a LHD vehicle that doesn't fit.
A quick trip to ECP later (who had one in stock unlike anywhere else) you can start reassembly....
That's today's job along with finishing installing the hoses, refilling the cooling system, checking for leaks and fixing a petrol leak that's I've found. Going to be a busy day!
Cheers,
Tom
Speaking of mostly uneventful and less accessible, somewhere North of Rouen, the temperature warning light came on. This was due to the coolant level bring low . A sealed system shouldn't use coolant, so it's got to be going somewhere, and coincidentally, there's a whiff of coolant in the cabin. Could this be the heater matrix...? Oh joy.
It's also using a bit of oil, so other possibilities should be considered as well... Not down on power, no sign of mayo in the oil, and no oil in the coolant. Excellent, so probably not the Head Gasket or the oil coolers then. Oh wait, there's a separate oil weep from the supercharger area, well we'll come back to that...
Now, about that heater matrix... A job that it seems according to the forum, is as much a pain in the arse as it is inevitable. This is my first in having had 4 Corrados though, do maybe I'm lucky.
Changing it is a doddle... Getting to it however, isn't.
You don't have to take the entire dashboard out, there are several good guides out there on various fora, but in a nutshell, the glove compartment and centre part of the dash need to come out.
This isn't too bad, needing mostly a Phillips screwdriver and a new spine once you've finished lying upside down in the passenger footwell.
Once you've pulled a lot of the air ducting out, you can then remove the heater matrix hoses, and undo the bolts holding the heater matrix housing in place. This is the really difficult part.
There are 3 to remove, one which holds the fan motor assembly on and is behind the expansion tank.
That's the easy one, the other two are practically in the centre of the engine bay, one in line with the coil, and one lower down in the heat shield. This bottom one is subject to road spray and is reluctant to be removed. If it turns in the plastic housing of the heater box, you'll need to get a 19mm spanner on the back.
This will involve contortion and bad language.
Eventually however, it will come out and then you can get at the matrix itself. Only to find that you've been sent one for a LHD vehicle that doesn't fit.
A quick trip to ECP later (who had one in stock unlike anywhere else) you can start reassembly....
That's today's job along with finishing installing the hoses, refilling the cooling system, checking for leaks and fixing a petrol leak that's I've found. Going to be a busy day!
Cheers,
Tom
darkyoung1000 said:
Could this be the heater matrix...? Oh joy.
You don't have to take the entire dashboard out,
This will involve contortion and bad language.
You don't have to take the entire dashboard out,
This will involve contortion and bad language.
Exactly my experience, I've done 2 this year and think I've cracked it in terms of how little can be removed from the dash an get the whole box out in one go.
Is your charger leaking oil from it's oil feed/return lines or do you suspect that the apex seals might be allowing a little oil to pass and it's leaking from charger outlet? A mate of mine was very close to removing his supercharger to be sent of for another rebuild before I found it was a tiny leak from the return pipe and the oil was getting splashed up the side of the charger making it look like it was coming out of the casing.
aka_kerrly said:
Is your charger leaking oil from it's oil feed/return lines or do you suspect that the apex seals might be allowing a little oil to pass and it's leaking from charger outlet? A mate of mine was very close to removing his supercharger to be sent of for another rebuild before I found it was a tiny leak from the return pipe and the oil was getting splashed up the side of the charger making it look like it was coming out of the casing.
Hmmm... Thanks, that's useful, I'll take a close look at the feed and return lines. They were new braided ones fitted a few years back, so I hope it's not them! My theory is at the moment is that the leak is coming from between the body of the charger, and the charger outlet. This is largely because, like any good session of car maintenance, moving something out the way to give you better access to something else had to happen.
In this case, it was the charger outlet in the way of accessing the last two really tricky hoses in front of the block. However, I can't remove the charger outlet as one of the bolts (the hardest one to get at) seems to have been cross threaded and is merrily spinning in the charger housing. If it's not clamped together properly, oil that's getting past the seals may be leaking from there.
Getting it out may be tricky, certainly adds a new level of complication! Next step is to remove the radiator for better access, at least it's not full of coolant yet!
On the plus side, the dash is back together (mostly) and tomorrow, the new workhorse will be collected, so the fact that the Corrado remains up on axle stands is less of an issue!
I may even start a new thread for what will be the youngest car in the family (by 2 years....)
Cheers,
Tom
You don't have to remove the rad to get the charger out. It's a right pain, but it's do-able. I did mine on my driveware before I sent it off to be rebuilt by JMR.
You do need those 4 awkward 10mm bolts that hold the silencer on removed in order to do it, though. It was nearly enough to make me get an RSR or BBM outlet for it to make the job easier in the future!
You do need those 4 awkward 10mm bolts that hold the silencer on removed in order to do it, though. It was nearly enough to make me get an RSR or BBM outlet for it to make the job easier in the future!
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