Mercedes 129 titivation
Discussion
No tickets in the post yet...
This evening I set about covering uncharted territory for me. Despite having had the front lower control arms (i.e. wishbones) changed, there is still some movement in the front suspension on the nearside. Terry thought there might be some wear in the bolts as they had been reused. Irritatingly, I had new bolts in my stores: they are Febi Bilstein but made by the same people who make them for MB, Reimer or somebody.
Any way, car up on stands (and tense jack as a precaution), wheels off. That's the easy bit. Then mark the eccentric washers so that the alignment is approximate enough to drive to Kwik Fit tomorrow for a proper alignment (I find Kwik Fit ok). Loosen and remove the nuts. Then the big moment I had been waiting for, the first use of my new £60-off-eBay spring compressor. I took all the tension out of the spring, then removed and replaced each bolt, one at a time. Then tighten them up, set according to the scribe marks, remove spring compressor. This went without a hitch.
Bolts to be replaced are marked red:
Nice new spring compressor:
Compressed spring (not all the way, just enough to take tension off control arm):
New and old bolts, I wonder whether they will stop the knocking:
Next was to fit a new air con compressor. I had the gas extracted elsewhere. Merc wanted over a grand for a compressor and they are on back order. I found a Behr-Mahle or Hella-Mahle or whatever they are called this week on eBay for £319. In principle, removal and replacement should be easy. Disconnect the 12v signal, unfasten the gas pipes (1 x 6mm hex each), remove the poly-vee belt, then unfasten three torx head bolts. In practice, it was pretty bloody difficult. My car has a slight oil leak from the timing case so everything was filthy. The hex bolts holding the pipes on were very easy to round off. The electrical feed would not come loose after 22 years. The mounting bolts have to be done from underneath. Access is tight. And a compressor is bloody heavy. I got there in the end, but not without spilling loads of new oil into my mouth (you have to fill the new compressor with PAG 46 oil and then let it soak through the works). It tastes hideous and has given me a headache and made me feel sick. Before anyone asks, I fitted new green 'O' rings.
New compressor:
New and old:
All in all, not a bad evening's DIY. I have an alignment booked tomorrow and I will also get them to gas it up.
Edit: non-thread purchase today, quite excited about this.
This evening I set about covering uncharted territory for me. Despite having had the front lower control arms (i.e. wishbones) changed, there is still some movement in the front suspension on the nearside. Terry thought there might be some wear in the bolts as they had been reused. Irritatingly, I had new bolts in my stores: they are Febi Bilstein but made by the same people who make them for MB, Reimer or somebody.
Any way, car up on stands (and tense jack as a precaution), wheels off. That's the easy bit. Then mark the eccentric washers so that the alignment is approximate enough to drive to Kwik Fit tomorrow for a proper alignment (I find Kwik Fit ok). Loosen and remove the nuts. Then the big moment I had been waiting for, the first use of my new £60-off-eBay spring compressor. I took all the tension out of the spring, then removed and replaced each bolt, one at a time. Then tighten them up, set according to the scribe marks, remove spring compressor. This went without a hitch.
Bolts to be replaced are marked red:
Nice new spring compressor:
Compressed spring (not all the way, just enough to take tension off control arm):
New and old bolts, I wonder whether they will stop the knocking:
Next was to fit a new air con compressor. I had the gas extracted elsewhere. Merc wanted over a grand for a compressor and they are on back order. I found a Behr-Mahle or Hella-Mahle or whatever they are called this week on eBay for £319. In principle, removal and replacement should be easy. Disconnect the 12v signal, unfasten the gas pipes (1 x 6mm hex each), remove the poly-vee belt, then unfasten three torx head bolts. In practice, it was pretty bloody difficult. My car has a slight oil leak from the timing case so everything was filthy. The hex bolts holding the pipes on were very easy to round off. The electrical feed would not come loose after 22 years. The mounting bolts have to be done from underneath. Access is tight. And a compressor is bloody heavy. I got there in the end, but not without spilling loads of new oil into my mouth (you have to fill the new compressor with PAG 46 oil and then let it soak through the works). It tastes hideous and has given me a headache and made me feel sick. Before anyone asks, I fitted new green 'O' rings.
New compressor:
New and old:
All in all, not a bad evening's DIY. I have an alignment booked tomorrow and I will also get them to gas it up.
Edit: non-thread purchase today, quite excited about this.
Edited by r129sl on Saturday 17th July 22:56
Can’t help with advice on the car; your knowledge and experience far exceeds mine however, I have pretty much the same mower and can offer a bit of useful information in this area 
The engine on these are good but can suffer cylinder head gasket failure (mine did in its 3rd year which is how I know!). The primary symptom is increased oil usage.
This can, to a large extent be avoided by cleaning all the loose grass etc from around the engine after use (I use my blower for this). This usually only happens when the grass is dry as you get clouds of dry cuttings when the blades are spinning which collects in every nook and cranny; it doesn’t seem to happen as much when the grass is wet. Either way, this grass collects, particularly at the rear of the engine and effectively provides insulation which can then result in overheating hence CHG failure.
Also, keep an eye on transmission fluid levels / condition (tank is at the rear under a cover).
At the risk of teaching you to suck eggs (in which case I apologise) these are pretty easy to maintain so, once the warranty is over I’d save your money and do it yourself (an annual service for these where I am is usually around £300!!).
Otherwise great machines with a ridiculous turning circle!
The engine on these are good but can suffer cylinder head gasket failure (mine did in its 3rd year which is how I know!). The primary symptom is increased oil usage.
This can, to a large extent be avoided by cleaning all the loose grass etc from around the engine after use (I use my blower for this). This usually only happens when the grass is dry as you get clouds of dry cuttings when the blades are spinning which collects in every nook and cranny; it doesn’t seem to happen as much when the grass is wet. Either way, this grass collects, particularly at the rear of the engine and effectively provides insulation which can then result in overheating hence CHG failure.
Also, keep an eye on transmission fluid levels / condition (tank is at the rear under a cover).
At the risk of teaching you to suck eggs (in which case I apologise) these are pretty easy to maintain so, once the warranty is over I’d save your money and do it yourself (an annual service for these where I am is usually around £300!!).
Otherwise great machines with a ridiculous turning circle!
Even I am impressed with my impressive work although I got myself absolutely filthy doing it. I am currently at Kwik Fit having an alignment and air con recharge done. They have noticed (helpfully) that there is a slight leak from the union of the brake pipe and flexi hose on the rear offside. Something to keep me busy this afternoon.
Before hoying it back together this morning, I detailed the front wheels. Auto Finesse's Iron Out product made light work of it. Spray it on, leave to dwell for about ten minutes, then sponge off. The inside of the wheels came up immaculate straight away. I then waxed them using Mint Rims, which I find prevents the brake dust sticking fast. This is the height of sadness but very satisfying. And pointless: I've drive a few miles and they're dusty again.
Next job is to fit new front pads, I noticed they are running a bit low. Replacement Brembos ordered from Euro, I'll fit them on Monday night. I ordered new accessories at the same time.
Before hoying it back together this morning, I detailed the front wheels. Auto Finesse's Iron Out product made light work of it. Spray it on, leave to dwell for about ten minutes, then sponge off. The inside of the wheels came up immaculate straight away. I then waxed them using Mint Rims, which I find prevents the brake dust sticking fast. This is the height of sadness but very satisfying. And pointless: I've drive a few miles and they're dusty again.
Next job is to fit new front pads, I noticed they are running a bit low. Replacement Brembos ordered from Euro, I'll fit them on Monday night. I ordered new accessories at the same time.
In the weekend of endless car tinkering, I tightened up the union between flexi and hard line on the offside rear, hopefully curing the leak. Have these great super-slim spanners which were ideal for holding the flexi in place. And this was the second outing for the flared nut spanner. Money well spent. I then bled this brake, just to be sure.
Up on the jack again. Risky, risky but I couldn't be arsed to do it properly and put it on stands. Having compressed air and a windy gun makes life easier. Removing a wheel takes about 45 seconds rather than 5 minutes.
Spanners in situ.
And another wheel detailed. Must resist the temptation to take the fourth one off just for the hell of it.
Interesting though I am sure this is, on balance I prefer those photo sets in which the lady removes more and more of her clothes to a series of spanner steps.
Up on the jack again. Risky, risky but I couldn't be arsed to do it properly and put it on stands. Having compressed air and a windy gun makes life easier. Removing a wheel takes about 45 seconds rather than 5 minutes.
Spanners in situ.
And another wheel detailed. Must resist the temptation to take the fourth one off just for the hell of it.
Interesting though I am sure this is, on balance I prefer those photo sets in which the lady removes more and more of her clothes to a series of spanner steps.
r129sl said:
Interesting though I am sure this is, on balance I prefer those photo sets in which the lady removes more and more of her clothes to a series of spanner steps.
There is a strange allure to your threads, but I confess that rude-y women get my vote, despite the uber-impressive nature of your work. 
ks. I can't really put off a new roof much longer.
Good job, on the A/C, JR.
I got into doing my own repairs when I was quoted some very outlandish prices for what seemed like simple work. I figured if some of the people I know can sort it out, I should be able to give it a good stab after some reading into how the system works. I even found a good man that will come to my house and de-gas and re-gas the system, too.
I got into doing my own repairs when I was quoted some very outlandish prices for what seemed like simple work. I figured if some of the people I know can sort it out, I should be able to give it a good stab after some reading into how the system works. I even found a good man that will come to my house and de-gas and re-gas the system, too.
Re: roof.
Mine goes in here: https://www.autotrimltd.co.uk/. on the 2nd August. It’s somewhat worse than yours.
Yes - the rear screen is approximately 95% duct tape.
From the fit and finish I saw when there to book it in, they look pretty good to me:
The blue car in the background had just had the roof fitted, the black one to the right was next in the queue. I know it’s not a KHM hood he uses, he gets them from the US instead (robin hood?), but everything looked very nice, as you’d expect a new hood to do.
I’d be happy to let you have one of my motors for the few days it’d take him, would let you get back up to the NE & around with minimal inconvenience.
Mine goes in here: https://www.autotrimltd.co.uk/. on the 2nd August. It’s somewhat worse than yours.
Yes - the rear screen is approximately 95% duct tape.
From the fit and finish I saw when there to book it in, they look pretty good to me:
The blue car in the background had just had the roof fitted, the black one to the right was next in the queue. I know it’s not a KHM hood he uses, he gets them from the US instead (robin hood?), but everything looked very nice, as you’d expect a new hood to do.
I’d be happy to let you have one of my motors for the few days it’d take him, would let you get back up to the NE & around with minimal inconvenience.
r129sl said:
Thanks, Jake. De-gassing was easy enough...
But we need not talk about that in the public domain. Also, on the roof situation my good lady had her Z3’s top replaced at the Car Hood warehouse last year. They did a very good job, but I can’t comment on longevity as the car was pinched 6 weeks later.
She also referred some family members on to have their R129 done (with a green hood) and they were also pleased.
It is in Kent though, which is an awfully long way from the NE, granted.
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