IanH's 955hp V10 Audi RS6 - Another Car Diary!
Discussion
Not specifically about the products, but a direct injection engine that breathes quite a bit of oil will get sludged up eventually. Whether you can clean that out with a simple can of something I'm not sure, but it might well make a difference.
The only true test would be to whack a car on a dyno, inspect the head for the amount of crap, run the cleaner through it, then re-dyno and reinspect the head.
That said, I believe newer cars often run a combo of port and direct injection anyway, so it shouldn't be an issue.
The only true test would be to whack a car on a dyno, inspect the head for the amount of crap, run the cleaner through it, then re-dyno and reinspect the head.
That said, I believe newer cars often run a combo of port and direct injection anyway, so it shouldn't be an issue.
Krikkit said:
Not specifically about the products, but a direct injection engine that breathes quite a bit of oil will get sludged up eventually. Whether you can clean that out with a simple can of something I'm not sure, but it might well make a difference.
The only true test would be to whack a car on a dyno, inspect the head for the amount of crap, run the cleaner through it, then re-dyno and reinspect the head.
That said, I believe newer cars often run a combo of port and direct injection anyway, so it shouldn't be an issue.
I completely agree.The only true test would be to whack a car on a dyno, inspect the head for the amount of crap, run the cleaner through it, then re-dyno and reinspect the head.
That said, I believe newer cars often run a combo of port and direct injection anyway, so it shouldn't be an issue.
But if you have to clear up the sludge you need to use a physical cleaning method IE walnut blasting etc.
If you see the type of sludge you will see that
a) Direct injection engines don't touch the intake valves so it's irrelevant
b) any amount of cleaner sprayed into the intake will NOT clean the valves.
Ah, long time no see! 
Well I'm back in the UK for 3 weeks and I hate to sit around bored so I'm off to Scotland to give a modified NC500 route a 3 day blast next week, rather than having the car sat in garage doing suspension - I swear I'm getting it done at "some point"
As there's no V-power/Tesco 99 etc further north than Tain I'm going to base myself in Inverness (for the V-power) and concentrate on crossing over and driving up the West side of the route such as Ullapool, Applecross and upto Kylesku Bridge etc rather than the East side heading on the A9 upto Wick. I'll aim for a bit of Fort William and Lock Ness too although, having lived 1hr away from Inverness for 2 years, spotting the monster isn't high on my priorities!
Car maintenance wise I've got the following niggles to sort -
PS - Cars still fast as balls!
Well I'm back in the UK for 3 weeks and I hate to sit around bored so I'm off to Scotland to give a modified NC500 route a 3 day blast next week, rather than having the car sat in garage doing suspension - I swear I'm getting it done at "some point"
As there's no V-power/Tesco 99 etc further north than Tain I'm going to base myself in Inverness (for the V-power) and concentrate on crossing over and driving up the West side of the route such as Ullapool, Applecross and upto Kylesku Bridge etc rather than the East side heading on the A9 upto Wick. I'll aim for a bit of Fort William and Lock Ness too although, having lived 1hr away from Inverness for 2 years, spotting the monster isn't high on my priorities!
Car maintenance wise I've got the following niggles to sort -
- The cheap eBay CF aftermarket "gearshift paddle extenders" I use are now coming loose after 3+ years so I've already got a replacement set of silver paddles which match the silver OEM paddles better. The OEM ones are a bit small and I prefer the slightly larger paddles as they fit my hand perfectly when I'm blitzing through the gears.
- Rear Bootlid water leak - Find where it's getting in and stop it. I've had to take both rear boot-lights out to give the water a place to drain (got about 250ml out!).
- Water/Meth "windscreen wash" bottle - low level sensor constantly says low level and needs replacing, however it's part of the bottle so the whole thing needs replacing and, as mine is a water/meth container with additional hoses added, it's not a simple task. I may pass that on with the suspension refresh.
- New Tyres - No-one in the UK can get Michelin PS4S tyres in 275/35-R20 102Y XL - they say they can then Michelin tell them Nope when they try and order any. My MPSS have another year in them but I have a slow leak on the rear offside (5psi over 2 months) and the batteries in the TPMS sensors will need changing soon too (originals are 10 years old).
PS - Cars still fast as balls!
Tyre Leader always seem to come up with the goods for me: https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/michelin/pi...
Yoof said:
Tyre Leader always seem to come up with the goods for me: https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/michelin/pi...
smifffymoto said:
Have you tried Delticom for tyres.The UK site is MyTyres and they have stock.It’s all shipped from Germany anyway.
I use the French site and haven’t been let down(yet).
I've tried 4 different companies, 2 even took money and then refunded me a few days later when they couldn't actually get any from Michelin!I use the French site and haven’t been let down(yet).
Your rear water leak issue isn’t anything to do with a leaky washer pipe is it?
This was a few years back but I seem to remember a colleague who had a an issue with his A6 radio not working, it turned out it was the amplifier which is located in the rear. it had died due to a leaking joint on the washer pipe. The leaking pipe was a known issue and was part of a recall.
This was a few years back but I seem to remember a colleague who had a an issue with his A6 radio not working, it turned out it was the amplifier which is located in the rear. it had died due to a leaking joint on the washer pipe. The leaking pipe was a known issue and was part of a recall.
I'll give it a look but it's only when it rains so far.
Just to add to my "fun" the right rear brake disc heatshield detached itself during a "spirited drive" last night and made an awful racket as it rubs the disc. Having had this same thing happen on the left side during a previous trackday I knew the fix was simple, cut it off, so spent the day so far doing that, yay!
Once the rear discs get low enough to need replacing I'll refit new heatshields at that time but they can wait until then.
Just to add to my "fun" the right rear brake disc heatshield detached itself during a "spirited drive" last night and made an awful racket as it rubs the disc. Having had this same thing happen on the left side during a previous trackday I knew the fix was simple, cut it off, so spent the day so far doing that, yay!
Once the rear discs get low enough to need replacing I'll refit new heatshields at that time but they can wait until then.
Hi Ian,
I have an A6 Avant of similar vintage but a lowly diesel (With a Revo remap mind). Had same issue with water in tailgate and replaced the gaskets for the rear lights, which seems to have worked. Haven't had much rain since fitting to test, but the Audi forum seems to also suggest this as a fix.
S
I have an A6 Avant of similar vintage but a lowly diesel (With a Revo remap mind). Had same issue with water in tailgate and replaced the gaskets for the rear lights, which seems to have worked. Haven't had much rain since fitting to test, but the Audi forum seems to also suggest this as a fix.
S
MattMacc123 said:
Absolutely cracking car! I know you don't buy these cars for economy, but out of curiosity, what kind of MPG does an animal like that return?
All calculated as fuel used vs distance driven rather than OBD readings - About 25-28mpg doing 60-ish on the motorway.
About 19mpg driving combined town/mway.
About 13mpg driving just around town.
About 3-5mpg on the track - difficult to tell TBH
All those figures are with liberal doses of full throttle too.
Yeah.........................about Scotland 
Looks like I popped the gearbox input driveshaft as the drive from engine to gearbox is now physically disconnected even though both work fine separately (engine works fine, GB works fine without any noises etc, there's just no drive now). I was overtaking a van on a nice bit of A-Road from 40mph with full throttle inc kick down and got 1-2 secs of acceleration in 2nd, then a loud clunk, then no drive at all, like I'd put the clutch in on manual GB. It's happened to another 900+ car with the same GB so it's a known weakspot but there's now companies who make uprated shafts who weren't available 3 years ago when I had the box built so I'll be going down that route.
I dropped it off with Grizz @ Unit20 this morning after 23hrs getting the AA to recover me from Northern Scotland!
Looks like I popped the gearbox input driveshaft as the drive from engine to gearbox is now physically disconnected even though both work fine separately (engine works fine, GB works fine without any noises etc, there's just no drive now). I was overtaking a van on a nice bit of A-Road from 40mph with full throttle inc kick down and got 1-2 secs of acceleration in 2nd, then a loud clunk, then no drive at all, like I'd put the clutch in on manual GB. It's happened to another 900+ car with the same GB so it's a known weakspot but there's now companies who make uprated shafts who weren't available 3 years ago when I had the box built so I'll be going down that route.
I dropped it off with Grizz @ Unit20 this morning after 23hrs getting the AA to recover me from Northern Scotland!
Dr G said:
Oh no, what a shame!
Can there be any bad luck left? I think you've used it all up.
TBF Dr G, with the drive-train pushing 800lbs/ft+ matched to grippy tyres through a good AWD system, something will always have to give eventually, so I'm not massively surprised that something sheared but it does let me know what the weak spot is.Can there be any bad luck left? I think you've used it all up.
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