Ford Focus Mk2 [ST] Estate Sleeper - Build Thread
Discussion
BenWRXSEi said:
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!
Surely (banded?) steelies and wheel-trims are the way forward for ultimate sleeper bragging rights?
The steels I've found are only 5mm narrower that the standard ST wheels, so I won't loose too much contact patch. The 'will they hold up at autobahn cruising speeds' might play on my mind whilst cruising at autobahn speeds, although I know many people would swear by them. Surely (banded?) steelies and wheel-trims are the way forward for ultimate sleeper bragging rights?
I was possibly thinking a single wheel trim on either side, for the complete 'I don't car about/maintain my car' look.
jamiebae said:
Great thread, and a really interesting car to build.
Do you have any idea how much this is likely to stand you at once finished? I was looking at used STs a few days ago and hadn't realised how cheap they've got now.
I have a figure in my head which is roughly half what a same mechanical condition ST would cost. Do you have any idea how much this is likely to stand you at once finished? I was looking at used STs a few days ago and hadn't realised how cheap they've got now.
Before I started the project I was considering a blob eye Impreza STI and I think this will be cheaper by half, and running costs will be lower. And the money I save can be spent on my Land Rover restoration!
Sf_Manta said:
I haven't personally, but a friend of mine had some knocked up for an Opel Manta, and the prices were not at all bad considering they were custom at around £70-80 a spring, but this was 6-7 years ago. Maybe worth giving them a call at the end of the day.
Thanks, that's does seem very reasonable! I will talk to them rohrl said:
A decent starting point would be to find out how much stiffer the normal estate rear springs are than front springs and go from there. If the rears are 20% stiffer than the fronts then get some springs which are 20% stiffer than the ST front springs.
I'd have thought that the spring makers will be able to give some pretty good advice from their own experience.
That does sound like a sensible place to start, and as you say they should know a bit themselves!I'd have thought that the spring makers will be able to give some pretty good advice from their own experience.
jamiebae said:
Sounds good then, effectively you're re-shelling a Cat-B and repairing with used parts. Given you're not planning to go nuts with wheels, body mods, fancy paint and so on it shouldn't be super expensive, and will be much more usable than an Impreza too. (Usable meaning being able to drive it without every chav and his mate wanting a race)
Exactly. Haha, that's me, I tried to race an Impreza just this morning (on a private stretch of road...)!
Almost ready to try to start it for the first time, but first a quick summary of what's been changed:
Fuel tank
Fuel lines
Front subframe
Engine
Gearbox
Complete front suspension
Drive shafts
Front brakes
ABS unit
Radiator
Intercooler
Exhaust manifold
Cat
Brake master cylinder
Brake pedal
Front brake pipes
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch pedal
Clutch pipes
Accelerator pedal
Engine bay wiring
Engine bay fuse box
Interior fuse box
Heater pipes
Screen wash reservoir and pipe work
Engine bay heat shield
Dash clocks
Steering rack
A/C pipe work
What's not changed:
Rear subframe
Fuel filler
Rear brakes (they're the same as the ST!)
Rear car wiring harness
What we haven't changed yet but might still:
Dash wiring
Steering column
Ignition barrel
Door locks
Bonnet lock
Original plan was to also change over all of the ST dash wiring, steering column and ignition barrel. But, as we had got to the point of the new engine being in and everything being mechanically connected back together (ie all pipes and electrical connectors physically fitted together), we thought we might as well turn the key and see what happens!
Nothing, is basically the answer! Although the LCD display on the dash lite up and the immobilisor light flashed, nothing at all happened when the key was inserted and turned. We got side lights, rear lights and interior lights to come on though, which shows that there is power and that the rear loom from the estate is compatible with the ST front loom.
Not the result we were hoping for, but we didn't think it was going to work! Next will be to change over all of the ST dash wiring.
Fuel tank
Fuel lines
Front subframe
Engine
Gearbox
Complete front suspension
Drive shafts
Front brakes
ABS unit
Radiator
Intercooler
Exhaust manifold
Cat
Brake master cylinder
Brake pedal
Front brake pipes
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch pedal
Clutch pipes
Accelerator pedal
Engine bay wiring
Engine bay fuse box
Interior fuse box
Heater pipes
Screen wash reservoir and pipe work
Engine bay heat shield
Dash clocks
Steering rack
A/C pipe work
What's not changed:
Rear subframe
Fuel filler
Rear brakes (they're the same as the ST!)
Rear car wiring harness
What we haven't changed yet but might still:
Dash wiring
Steering column
Ignition barrel
Door locks
Bonnet lock
Original plan was to also change over all of the ST dash wiring, steering column and ignition barrel. But, as we had got to the point of the new engine being in and everything being mechanically connected back together (ie all pipes and electrical connectors physically fitted together), we thought we might as well turn the key and see what happens!
Nothing, is basically the answer! Although the LCD display on the dash lite up and the immobilisor light flashed, nothing at all happened when the key was inserted and turned. We got side lights, rear lights and interior lights to come on though, which shows that there is power and that the rear loom from the estate is compatible with the ST front loom.
Not the result we were hoping for, but we didn't think it was going to work! Next will be to change over all of the ST dash wiring.
JonoG81 said:
jeez you certainly aren't hanging around with this project, good luck getting the issue sorted and it fires up first time and runs sweet
I'm afraid it is articfially fast as I've got a bit of catching up to do with pictures and writing, although hopefully that just means that there's less waiting around between updates!JonoG81 said:
CHR15 G said:
JonoG81 said:
jeez you certainly aren't hanging around with this project, good luck getting the issue sorted and it fires up first time and runs sweet
I'm afraid it is articfially fast as I've got a bit of catching up to do with pictures and writing, although hopefully that just means that there's less waiting around between updates!Fastdruid said:
CHR15 G said:
Nothing, is basically the answer! Although the LCD display on the dash lite up and the immobilisor light flashed, nothing at all happened when the key was inserted and turned. We got side lights, rear lights and interior lights to come on though, which shows that there is power and that the rear loom from the estate is compatible with the ST front loom.
Not the result we were hoping for, but we didn't think it was going to work! Next will be to change over all of the ST dash wiring.
Not totally unsurprising as there is an immobiliser which is in the key, if you'd used the emergency key (ie the one without a chip) while holding the ST key up to the ignition it might have started.Not the result we were hoping for, but we didn't think it was going to work! Next will be to change over all of the ST dash wiring.
Not sure which key you have but rather than swap the entire lot over you might get away with just changing the blade over (I'm presuming here that the ST has a conventional steering lock and not a push button).
The Ford PATS system requires both the dash pod (via the ignition barrel) and the engine ECU independently verify the code on chip in the key, ie you need a matching set of ECU, dash pod and key.
Hudson said:
It's been on the magic rollers, limit of the standard turbo so far is 345bhp and that's using the latest Collins map, which they insist you have the block mod done for.
Also by full exhaust do you mean downpipe and cat as well?
I'd be happy with 300bhp to start with. But it does sound like I need to get the block mod down. Also by full exhaust do you mean downpipe and cat as well?
I believe the down pipe and cat are Milltek, but I would need to check.
Shadow R1 said:
CHR15 G said:
Realistically it was never going to work, but it was worth trying as it didn't cost us any time! It's a mismatch of engine ECU, dash and keys from both cars, we did try both keys though.
The Ford PATS system requires both the dash pod (via the ignition barrel) and the engine ECU independently verify the code on chip in the key, ie you need a matching set of ECU, dash pod and key.
I had a new key coded for my focus mk2, during testing it left 2 codes stored one for the ecu and the other for the dash unit, both saying keycode mismatch.The Ford PATS system requires both the dash pod (via the ignition barrel) and the engine ECU independently verify the code on chip in the key, ie you need a matching set of ECU, dash pod and key.
So i think your on the right line with the above.
claymore said:
I would definitely get the liners shimmed.
I shimmed mine after I split a liner and it's been fine since
I don't want to talk about the block mod too much here as it has been covered a lot elsewhere, and there is more to this project that just the engine. For two main reasons I've decided not to get it done:I shimmed mine after I split a liner and it's been fine since
1. I think it might have it already. A lot has been done to this engine already and it's reported to be a 'very good one', therefore it would surprise me if it hadn't been done.
2. If it hasn't been done, and my liners do crack, then this would be an excellent excuse to rip out the engine and build up a 'proper' one with all new internals and 400-450bhp... I like the sound of that project!
KillerHERTZ said:
Excellent project!
Whats the deal once you have finished, will you need to re-register it as a new vehicle?
Thank you!Whats the deal once you have finished, will you need to re-register it as a new vehicle?
No, I just need to send proof to the DVLA of the new engine size, fuel and tax class and they will update the log book. If I was 'upgrading' to the diesel from the T5 then I think they would want to come and have a look as I would then be paying them less VED, but as I'll be paying them more money then I think they're well up for it!
Insurance with Adrain Flux is very reasonable indeed, I would give them a try for all modified vehicles.
All the dash wiring needed to be changed, but the photo below shows how intertwined the wiring is with the dash, so we decided to remove the whole dashboard.
But for that the doors need to come off as the fixing for the dash is a huge Torx hidden behind the door. I wish we'd known this earlier as having the doors off would have made it easier earlier on.
Spoiler alert: the next photo has a sneak peak of the new tyres and wheels
And after several hours and eventually lifting it out by myself (cantilevered from one end, it was really heavy) here it is. Just need to do it all over again on the other car, then the reverse to get it back in!
It's mainly wiring, heater and aircon radiator.
I didn't get any photos of the estate without its dash, but here is some of the ST with out it, it really is stripped bare!
But for that the doors need to come off as the fixing for the dash is a huge Torx hidden behind the door. I wish we'd known this earlier as having the doors off would have made it easier earlier on.
Spoiler alert: the next photo has a sneak peak of the new tyres and wheels
And after several hours and eventually lifting it out by myself (cantilevered from one end, it was really heavy) here it is. Just need to do it all over again on the other car, then the reverse to get it back in!
It's mainly wiring, heater and aircon radiator.
I didn't get any photos of the estate without its dash, but here is some of the ST with out it, it really is stripped bare!
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