2003 Porsche Boxster S
Discussion
Gave the car its second wax and sealant of the year. I only do this twice a year as my drying technique tops up the wax layers (spray wax onto a wet drying towel to dry the car, adds the protection afterwards).
Remember the issues I was (and still am) having with the handling and alignment? Well something's happening to the car which is usually bad news, but is great news for me as it pin points what it is.
Under acceleration, the car is turning slightly left, and under deceleration, the car returns to steer right. This pretty much confirms that it's the alignment, and not loose ball joints. If it was loose bushes, the car would turn either left or right under acceleration/deceleration. This is consistent, with the car turning more left the harder I accelerate. It's subtle, but it's there.
I'm going to take it back to the alignment centre as I'm hoping that the alignment bolts weren't tightened properly, and I'm going to tell them to really tighten them up.
After that, I'll change the knocking front drop links, and the car's back to perfect mechanical condition.
Remember the issues I was (and still am) having with the handling and alignment? Well something's happening to the car which is usually bad news, but is great news for me as it pin points what it is.
Under acceleration, the car is turning slightly left, and under deceleration, the car returns to steer right. This pretty much confirms that it's the alignment, and not loose ball joints. If it was loose bushes, the car would turn either left or right under acceleration/deceleration. This is consistent, with the car turning more left the harder I accelerate. It's subtle, but it's there.
I'm going to take it back to the alignment centre as I'm hoping that the alignment bolts weren't tightened properly, and I'm going to tell them to really tighten them up.
After that, I'll change the knocking front drop links, and the car's back to perfect mechanical condition.
Escy said:
Have you replaced the damaged suspension subframe?
Nah not as of yet. I was told by the alignment centre that it obviously restricts aligning the car without it being there, but the alignment shouldn't shift with it missing as it's the torque of the bolt that keeps the alignment in place, and not that.Unless they'e wrong?
Escy said:
Yes they are wrong. I think it's the cause of your issue. It's a cheap part to buy and easily replaced, definitely swap it before going back.
It's definitely cheap, but I don't know about easy - just had a look at how to do it and it looks a little out of my depth. Will have to take it to a mechanic.Here's the guide:
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/6315...
I've read it thoroughly and to be honest it doesn't seem that bad, it's just two things I'm concerned about:
1. Supporting the transmission with a transmission jack as I haven't got one. I've only got another floor jack, and I'd be worried that I wouldn't be supporting it as well as I should with it. If it's just a case of using some wood on a floor jack, then I'd happily give it a go.
2. The studs as well as the nuts that hold the bracket onto the body need to come out. Why would the studs have to come out, and how do I remove them?
If I can find the answers to those to concerns, I'd give it a go.
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/6315...
I've read it thoroughly and to be honest it doesn't seem that bad, it's just two things I'm concerned about:
1. Supporting the transmission with a transmission jack as I haven't got one. I've only got another floor jack, and I'd be worried that I wouldn't be supporting it as well as I should with it. If it's just a case of using some wood on a floor jack, then I'd happily give it a go.
2. The studs as well as the nuts that hold the bracket onto the body need to come out. Why would the studs have to come out, and how do I remove them?
If I can find the answers to those to concerns, I'd give it a go.
A trolley jack with a block of wood will be fine. I find the studs tend to come out with the nut still attached usually. If not, you can just put a spanner on the bottom of the stud. These studs need to come off as they have a chamfer which is what locates the subframe to the chassis.
It'll take a while to do on axle stands but it's all pretty straight forward.
It'll take a while to do on axle stands but it's all pretty straight forward.
Right. Going to order a new rear left subframe in the next few days to fix it, as well as some drop links for the front. After I replace the sub frame, drop links, then get it aligned, it should feel and drive like new again and I seriously can't wait.
Second hand subframe is £25 on Ebay, drop links are £45, alignment is £60 for all four wheels. So £130 to get the suspension sorted. Happy days.
Will throw two new tyres on the back (Falken FK510's for £211 a pair fitted, excellent price for a 255/40/18 tyre), then all is well with the world of handling.
Second hand subframe is £25 on Ebay, drop links are £45, alignment is £60 for all four wheels. So £130 to get the suspension sorted. Happy days.
Will throw two new tyres on the back (Falken FK510's for £211 a pair fitted, excellent price for a 255/40/18 tyre), then all is well with the world of handling.
Whilst I’m waiting to buy the parts to fix the suspension issues, I already had the kit to refurbish the alloy wheels.
The last time I did the wheels they looked great, but eventually they became a lot more matt than gloss for some reason. Not sure if it was the lacquer I used or the technique.
This time I’ve coated the lacquer on seriously thick. The result is a wheel that’s not perfect by any means (with orange peel and the odd lacquer defect here and there due to thick build up), but it’s a lot more glossy.
I could get them professionally done but, to be honest, this is good enough for me.
I tell you what though, I used black primer before putting the coat on. When the primer dried, the wheel was satin black…
…and it did look quite nice.
The last time I did the wheels they looked great, but eventually they became a lot more matt than gloss for some reason. Not sure if it was the lacquer I used or the technique.
This time I’ve coated the lacquer on seriously thick. The result is a wheel that’s not perfect by any means (with orange peel and the odd lacquer defect here and there due to thick build up), but it’s a lot more glossy.
I could get them professionally done but, to be honest, this is good enough for me.
I tell you what though, I used black primer before putting the coat on. When the primer dried, the wheel was satin black…
…and it did look quite nice.
Haven't actually posted in a while due to being ridiculously busy. Being a lecturer I've got assessments and marking to do outside of work, as well as the fact that I work in a TV studio and normally work overtime, as well as a PGCE to study for, as well as freelance work to do... you can see how I've got no time to wipe my own ass lately.
Even so, thought I'd update you on it all.
A few days ago, I decided to be a t
t and drive into a bollard in a Tesco car park. Totally mis-judged the turning circle and it clipped the N/S rear wheel. The damage was scratches, dents, and suspension damage. The rear quarter panel had bent in slightly, the sill had a dent, there were scuffs on the panel, and the rear wheel was pointing outwards. Ouch!
The good news was that the scuffs didn't go through the paint, and the dents weren't creased at all. I had a recovery truck drop me home and I took the rear wheel off to have a look.
This is what it did:
Annoyingly, that's the very arm I replaced when the original snapped! Either way, £70 and an hour later and the suspension was fixed. Took it to the alignment garage, had a 4 wheel alignment done (again), and the car drove perfectly. While I was there, I saw how much the panel was pushed in.
This is the good side:
This is the bad:
Notice how much more of the wheel you can see? Luckily though, I managed to pull the dents and panel out perfectly, and the scratches machine polished straight out. All is good as new like it had never happened!
Done (haven't got a better photo sorry):
There's a few other things that started to pile up due to having no time. Here's some of them:
Drop links. The front left drop link is knocking since changing my control arms, so I just need to replace that. I did try to do it myself but, although the nuts came off easily, the top bolt is seized. I'm going to have to take a hacksaw and heat to this thing during the week.
HID's. My left HID is dimmer than my right and has been fore quite a while, but it's still my old HID's Direct kit (which are absolutely dire). I'm going to get one of the £85 Hid4U kits which are apparently astonishing. I'm also going to try 6000k as I normally do 5000k, but as my DRL's are 6000k, I'd like to try them. If not, I can always buy 5000k bulbs separately and keep the 6000's as a backup.
Door window drop. Since changing my window regulator years ago, this happens now and again where the window doesn't drop as much as it should. I've got a few cable ties that take away the slack but over time they get crushed and it goes back to not dropping much. Just needs a bike brake cable adjuster and it should be fine. Even so, it's never as good as it used to be. But, if I disconnect the battery of the car then reconnect it, the window drops perfectly. But 30 seconds later, it'll go back to being rubbish again. I've re-trained it but perhaps I'm doing it wrong?
Dent/scuff. Someone decided to open their door into me and dent the rear quarter, then drive off and scuff the front bumper. Lovely! Luckily I've got the scuff off the front bumper with 2000grit wet and dry, but the rear will need a paintless dent repair specialist. I've had someone repair far worse than this, so I'm not worried! Will only cost around £40. But, knowing how well I pulled the other dents, I may look at this myself.
Starter motor. Sounds like a donkey, just need to clean it.
That's about it! Will keep you guys updated.
Even so, thought I'd update you on it all.
A few days ago, I decided to be a t
t and drive into a bollard in a Tesco car park. Totally mis-judged the turning circle and it clipped the N/S rear wheel. The damage was scratches, dents, and suspension damage. The rear quarter panel had bent in slightly, the sill had a dent, there were scuffs on the panel, and the rear wheel was pointing outwards. Ouch!The good news was that the scuffs didn't go through the paint, and the dents weren't creased at all. I had a recovery truck drop me home and I took the rear wheel off to have a look.
This is what it did:
Annoyingly, that's the very arm I replaced when the original snapped! Either way, £70 and an hour later and the suspension was fixed. Took it to the alignment garage, had a 4 wheel alignment done (again), and the car drove perfectly. While I was there, I saw how much the panel was pushed in.
This is the good side:
This is the bad:
Notice how much more of the wheel you can see? Luckily though, I managed to pull the dents and panel out perfectly, and the scratches machine polished straight out. All is good as new like it had never happened!
Done (haven't got a better photo sorry):
There's a few other things that started to pile up due to having no time. Here's some of them:
Drop links. The front left drop link is knocking since changing my control arms, so I just need to replace that. I did try to do it myself but, although the nuts came off easily, the top bolt is seized. I'm going to have to take a hacksaw and heat to this thing during the week.
HID's. My left HID is dimmer than my right and has been fore quite a while, but it's still my old HID's Direct kit (which are absolutely dire). I'm going to get one of the £85 Hid4U kits which are apparently astonishing. I'm also going to try 6000k as I normally do 5000k, but as my DRL's are 6000k, I'd like to try them. If not, I can always buy 5000k bulbs separately and keep the 6000's as a backup.
Door window drop. Since changing my window regulator years ago, this happens now and again where the window doesn't drop as much as it should. I've got a few cable ties that take away the slack but over time they get crushed and it goes back to not dropping much. Just needs a bike brake cable adjuster and it should be fine. Even so, it's never as good as it used to be. But, if I disconnect the battery of the car then reconnect it, the window drops perfectly. But 30 seconds later, it'll go back to being rubbish again. I've re-trained it but perhaps I'm doing it wrong?
Dent/scuff. Someone decided to open their door into me and dent the rear quarter, then drive off and scuff the front bumper. Lovely! Luckily I've got the scuff off the front bumper with 2000grit wet and dry, but the rear will need a paintless dent repair specialist. I've had someone repair far worse than this, so I'm not worried! Will only cost around £40. But, knowing how well I pulled the other dents, I may look at this myself.
Starter motor. Sounds like a donkey, just need to clean it.
That's about it! Will keep you guys updated.
geraintthomas said:
Whilst I’m waiting to buy the parts to fix the suspension issues, I already had the kit to refurbish the alloy wheels.
The last time I did the wheels they looked great, but eventually they became a lot more matt than gloss for some reason. Not sure if it was the lacquer I used or the technique.
1k lacquer does that unfortunately. You can get 2k lacquer in a can but it can be nasty stuff if you're stupid with it.The last time I did the wheels they looked great, but eventually they became a lot more matt than gloss for some reason. Not sure if it was the lacquer I used or the technique.
Dave0321 said:
1k lacquer does that unfortunately. You can get 2k lacquer in a can but it can be nasty stuff if you're stupid with it.
Ah that's what the difference is. Always wondered that. I may stick to 1k then, especially since the 2k seems hard to use with rattle cans!Alonso92 said:
The Boxster is looking lovely! What was the best method you found to pull the dents out?
Thank you! I had the rubber end of a tool, placed it on the creases of the dent and tapped the other end with a hammer to start flattening the dent. Then I started to do the same from the other side of the panel to eventually re-shape it. Worked a charm luckily.Couple of updates:
- Finally replaced the front left droplink that was causing a small knock ever since I had the car - woah! Obviously the car doesn't feel different but it seems to, as it's amazing how much noise came from that droplink.
- One of my projector lenses that I put in has suddenly got dimmer over time (I've tried new bulbs/ballasts), and this is to do with the inside of the projector bowl being burnt. The result is a coating of orange, which yellows the light slightly and dims it. Just need to open it, replace and re-seal - easy peasy.
- I've been having low coolant levels for a week or so now. Decided that it could just be air in the system as when I checked, the overflow pipe was wet. I've already got the new coolant cap so it's not that.
Then I saw this in front of the O/S front wheel...
Looks like I've got a leaking radiator!
Going to order one on ebay - before anyone starts to go "Ohhhhhhh don't get those ebay ones get a genuine Porsche one!" while sitting in their genuine leather chairs and red trousers, I haven't got that sort of cash to throw at it at the moment when there's an equivalent on ebay for £65. I've had ebay radiators in my previous cars which I've had for years and they've been fantastic. The worst that would happen is that it'll either start leaking again, to which I just stop driving, or it won't cool as well which, I just stop driving. If either of those happen I can invest in a better one, but for £65, as with previous cars I've had (performance ones too), it's worth a go.
So £65 for the radiator, some coolant and a couple of hours work. Should be back to being normal.
Annoyingly though one of my DRL's has failed, so I'll need to be replacing that too. The weather effects so much - I'm normally on top of the car but in the winter, it gets dark early, it's always raining and I've got no garage, so things start to build up. Especially since the car seems to constantly look like this:
Still, doesn't stop me from having some roof down fun.
Bring on the summer!
Nice colour Combo! I have just bought an 03 'S' as well! Same colour interior but Seal Grey on the outside, not my first choice, but at least it isn't silver and it was the best one I found regarding options and history.
I have done around 800 miles in the first few weeks and loving it, working through the list of immediate niggles, the next being swapping out the standard stereo for an alpine head unit that I have knocking around, I bought the car with a broken amp, so a good excuse to add in Bliuetooth telephone/USB/Aux to bring it into the 21st century as my everyday driver
I have done around 800 miles in the first few weeks and loving it, working through the list of immediate niggles, the next being swapping out the standard stereo for an alpine head unit that I have knocking around, I bought the car with a broken amp, so a good excuse to add in Bliuetooth telephone/USB/Aux to bring it into the 21st century as my everyday driver
Fat Albert said:
Nice colour Combo! I have just bought an 03 'S' as well! Same colour interior but Seal Grey on the outside, not my first choice, but at least it isn't silver and it was the best one I found regarding options and history.
I have done around 800 miles in the first few weeks and loving it, working through the list of immediate niggles, the next being swapping out the standard stereo for an alpine head unit that I have knocking around, I bought the car with a broken amp, so a good excuse to add in Bliuetooth telephone/USB/Aux to bring it into the 21st century as my everyday driver
Lovely example I have done around 800 miles in the first few weeks and loving it, working through the list of immediate niggles, the next being swapping out the standard stereo for an alpine head unit that I have knocking around, I bought the car with a broken amp, so a good excuse to add in Bliuetooth telephone/USB/Aux to bring it into the 21st century as my everyday driver
if you'd like some tips on how to de-yellow those headlights back to being perfectly clear, just let me know. Won't cost anymore than £20 and you can do it in half an hour.geraintthomas said:
Whilst the side vents were off though, I've de-snorkel'd it.
This is a common thing to do, which removes the 'snorkel' restrictor from the intake which in turn allows more air in. Two resulting things happen, the first is a much louder intake sound which sounds gorgeous, and apparently there's a 5bhp power increase which someone proved with a dyno.
Seen here: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/9671-finally-dyno-charts-de-snorked-986s.html
Whether or not that's true, I don't know and I don't really care, I did it for the sound, but the fact that someone had a 5bhp increase from it just gives me peace of mind that I won't loose any power by doing it.
The sound is lovely now! Sounds exactly the same unless you bury the accelerator, and around 4,000rpm you get this snarl which sounds reminiscent of the induction noise on an E30, or a McLaren F1. No I'm not saying it sounds like a McLaren F1, but find an on-board video (EVO on YouTube) and listen to the snarl of the induction - that's the sound you start to get, and it's lovely.
I have finally read the whole thread and there are some great ideas for mine there, thanks!This is a common thing to do, which removes the 'snorkel' restrictor from the intake which in turn allows more air in. Two resulting things happen, the first is a much louder intake sound which sounds gorgeous, and apparently there's a 5bhp power increase which someone proved with a dyno.
Seen here: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/9671-finally-dyno-charts-de-snorked-986s.html
Whether or not that's true, I don't know and I don't really care, I did it for the sound, but the fact that someone had a 5bhp increase from it just gives me peace of mind that I won't loose any power by doing it.
The sound is lovely now! Sounds exactly the same unless you bury the accelerator, and around 4,000rpm you get this snarl which sounds reminiscent of the induction noise on an E30, or a McLaren F1. No I'm not saying it sounds like a McLaren F1, but find an on-board video (EVO on YouTube) and listen to the snarl of the induction - that's the sound you start to get, and it's lovely.
I hadn't heard of this de-snorkelling mod, so will take a look into it, in the meantime, a mate of mine owns a MClaren F1 GTR, so here is a little on-board Video from the journey home after a PH event a few years ago. The car is now back in its Bigazi Le Mans Livery:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icMvjWK0CiA
Right, so a few updates. Rad went on fine and has been absolutely perfect! No problems there at all.
Now onto the next big(ish) problem.
I've got the following problems:
- Codes P0171 + P0174 (too much air on both banks)
- Impossible to remove oil cap while engine running
- Rough idle
- Loss of performance
- Oil smelling smoke on start up
- Occasional lifter sound
Which, thankfully, all point to one thing - the air oil separator. It started with a vacuum leak, then onto rough idle, then power loss, then smokey start up, etc. I've bought a new one so I'll be replacing that in the week or on the weekend, depending on what time I have.
That last one, the lifter sound, is interesting. About a year ago I had a ticking on the engine which worried me - went in time with the engine revs. Sounded like a seized lifter, but it went after 10 minutes and never heard it again. Today I just had the same sound, and again after 10 minutes of driving, it went. Whilst roaming on YouTube, a guy posted a video with the identical sound. Turns out he said it was a 'lazy lifter from low oil pressure due to a faulty AOS'.
So there we are, hopefully I'll replace it and all will be well. After that, I'll be replacing the rear subframe (still haven't) so that the alignment can be perfect once again. The car should be mechanically spot on after that.
In the meantime though, DRL's have been fixed, ordered new ones but turns out it was a loose wire - at least I have spares.
Along with that, my new projector lamps came! The black ones. They're gorgeous! I split the headlights again, removed the old projectors and put the new ones in. The old ones were slightly oxidised on the inside of the bowl, which dimmed the light output. As well as this, I buffed the inside of the headlights and what a difference it's made!
Here's a difference in the headlights. Old left, new right. Notice the old silver projector vs the new black one, and also note how faded the lens is on the left to how clear the right one is! All of that was on the inside - no wonder I couldn't ever buff it out!
And two of the light output (yes I took one whilst driving 20mph on a quiet road, shush)
Some photos in the day:
Just have to fix the AOS and subframe, and the car will be back to mint condition. Although I cancelled my order for the AOS on eBay for £75 as I rang Porsche (I live 2 minutes from an OPC) and they had one in stock for £65 including VAT. It's the cheapest I can find anywhere, and it's direct from Porsche. Mental.
Anyway. While I've been at work, I decided to play around with some show plates that I'm getting made for when I take the car to shows. I want to have the same OEM style as a showroom car, so there's two options - a new car style plate, or OEM style pre-owned classic plates.
I've designed the two below:
OEM style 'new car' plate
OEM style 'pre-owned pre-2006' classic plate
Think I may go for the second one.
I may also get a little door rear view mirror hanger designed in the same style as ones they put on customers cars in the showroom, just to state the model number.
Like this:
Could look quite nice at shows!
Anyway, I'll let you know how I get on with replacing the AOS and the rear subframe
Now onto the next big(ish) problem.
I've got the following problems:
- Codes P0171 + P0174 (too much air on both banks)
- Impossible to remove oil cap while engine running
- Rough idle
- Loss of performance
- Oil smelling smoke on start up
- Occasional lifter sound
Which, thankfully, all point to one thing - the air oil separator. It started with a vacuum leak, then onto rough idle, then power loss, then smokey start up, etc. I've bought a new one so I'll be replacing that in the week or on the weekend, depending on what time I have.
That last one, the lifter sound, is interesting. About a year ago I had a ticking on the engine which worried me - went in time with the engine revs. Sounded like a seized lifter, but it went after 10 minutes and never heard it again. Today I just had the same sound, and again after 10 minutes of driving, it went. Whilst roaming on YouTube, a guy posted a video with the identical sound. Turns out he said it was a 'lazy lifter from low oil pressure due to a faulty AOS'.
So there we are, hopefully I'll replace it and all will be well. After that, I'll be replacing the rear subframe (still haven't) so that the alignment can be perfect once again. The car should be mechanically spot on after that.
In the meantime though, DRL's have been fixed, ordered new ones but turns out it was a loose wire - at least I have spares.
Along with that, my new projector lamps came! The black ones. They're gorgeous! I split the headlights again, removed the old projectors and put the new ones in. The old ones were slightly oxidised on the inside of the bowl, which dimmed the light output. As well as this, I buffed the inside of the headlights and what a difference it's made!
Here's a difference in the headlights. Old left, new right. Notice the old silver projector vs the new black one, and also note how faded the lens is on the left to how clear the right one is! All of that was on the inside - no wonder I couldn't ever buff it out!
And two of the light output (yes I took one whilst driving 20mph on a quiet road, shush)
Some photos in the day:
Just have to fix the AOS and subframe, and the car will be back to mint condition. Although I cancelled my order for the AOS on eBay for £75 as I rang Porsche (I live 2 minutes from an OPC) and they had one in stock for £65 including VAT. It's the cheapest I can find anywhere, and it's direct from Porsche. Mental.
Anyway. While I've been at work, I decided to play around with some show plates that I'm getting made for when I take the car to shows. I want to have the same OEM style as a showroom car, so there's two options - a new car style plate, or OEM style pre-owned classic plates.
I've designed the two below:
OEM style 'new car' plate
OEM style 'pre-owned pre-2006' classic plate
Think I may go for the second one.
I may also get a little door rear view mirror hanger designed in the same style as ones they put on customers cars in the showroom, just to state the model number.
Like this:
Could look quite nice at shows!
Anyway, I'll let you know how I get on with replacing the AOS and the rear subframe
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