My first Ovlov
Discussion
SturdyHSV said:
Could you elaborate on this a little or shall I just give it a Google? Sounds like it's probably for the best that I couldn't get the lock ring off 
You have to remove the locking ring both sides. One is the pump and connectors the other is a level sensor but they are all connected by a feed pipe which goes across the tank. Disconnect the pipe from the sensor and then attached a bit of wire, string whatever to the end of it and pull it through the pump side. Leave the wire in place and then, when you put the new pump in, you've got something to pull the feed back to the other side.
confused_buyer said:
You have to remove the locking ring both sides. One is the pump and connectors the other is a level sensor but they are all connected by a feed pipe which goes across the tank.
Disconnect the pipe from the sensor and then attached a bit of wire, string whatever to the end of it and pull it through the pump side. Leave the wire in place and then, when you put the new pump in, you've got something to pull the feed back to the other side.
Have managed to find a thread with some decent pictures which helped,thanks for the heads up on this!Disconnect the pipe from the sensor and then attached a bit of wire, string whatever to the end of it and pull it through the pump side. Leave the wire in place and then, when you put the new pump in, you've got something to pull the feed back to the other side.
The locking ring on the LHS (UK passenger side) is under the rear seat base, so access is easy. From what I've seen online it appears the RHS locking ring (this being the actual pump it seems?) requires removal of the seat back to gain access, is this right?
Just want to make sure I know what's what before I start taking things apart
In case anyone finds this thread through Google, the useful post with pictures is here:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showpost.php?p=41448...
There was also another post elsewhere that described it as below (thread here: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic....
Yours has two parts to the system....fuel gauge or level sensor and the fuel pump. Remember that although you're facing towards the rear of the car, left is still left (steering wheel side for USA cars and right is still right- the passenger side for USA cars...would be opposite if you're in the U.K).
Preparation:
1. Remove the back seat
2. Remove the insulation and fold back the carpet in the cargo area
3. You'll see the left side level sensor cover....remove it
4. Disconnect the wire connector
5. Loosen the level sensor ring with a special tool (you can rig something up here once you see it...looks like the inside of a 32point socket, but very large).
6. Disconnect the 2 connectors for the level sensor
7. Loosen the tube system by pushing the release button down
8. Remove the level sensor
9. Now that the level sensor is out of the way, attach a string or wire to the attachments on the left side fuel gauge sensor (make sure it's long enough because you'll be using it later to fish out the gauge sensor).
Now for the fuel pump itself:
10. Locate and remove the hatch for the fuel pump (right side, facing the back of the car) and loosen the seal for the pump and loosing the fuel pipe.
11. Loosen fuel pump lock ring (you can rig something up here once you see it...looks like the inside of a 32point socket, but very large).
12. Lift up the fuel pump half way to release the plastic tube.
13. Turn the fuel pump (still half way out) as if you're turning a clock's hand from 12:00 to 2:00.
14. Hold the float against the pump housing and lift it up and out of the opening.
15. Pull the tube and housing out using the attached wire.
16. Once out of the car, remove the fuel pump with wire and tube system.
17. Release 6 clamps noting the clamp positions
18. Loosen fixings and push level sensor up.
Installation is in reverse (when tightening fuel pump lock ring, NOTE markings on fuel tank and cover....you don't want to have a leak).
SturdyHSV said:
Have managed to find a thread with some decent pictures which helped,thanks for the heads up on this!
The locking ring on the LHS (UK passenger side) is under the rear seat base, so access is easy. From what I've seen online it appears the RHS locking ring (this being the actual pump it seems?) requires removal of the seat back to gain access, is this right?
Just want to make sure I know what's what before I start taking things apart
Sounds right to me. IIRC you might also need to remove the seat buckle in which case disconnect the battery otherwise you'll need the SRS error message reset on VIDA.The locking ring on the LHS (UK passenger side) is under the rear seat base, so access is easy. From what I've seen online it appears the RHS locking ring (this being the actual pump it seems?) requires removal of the seat back to gain access, is this right?
Just want to make sure I know what's what before I start taking things apart
It is very east to end up with a load of diesel everywhere as the pump and level are a tight fit and when replacing needs a firm push to get back in and get the locking ring on so a 2nd pair of hands is helpful.
confused_buyer said:
SturdyHSV said:
Have managed to find a thread with some decent pictures which helped,thanks for the heads up on this!
The locking ring on the LHS (UK passenger side) is under the rear seat base, so access is easy. From what I've seen online it appears the RHS locking ring (this being the actual pump it seems?) requires removal of the seat back to gain access, is this right?
Just want to make sure I know what's what before I start taking things apart
Sounds right to me. IIRC you might also need to remove the seat buckle in which case disconnect the battery otherwise you'll need the SRS error message reset on VIDA.The locking ring on the LHS (UK passenger side) is under the rear seat base, so access is easy. From what I've seen online it appears the RHS locking ring (this being the actual pump it seems?) requires removal of the seat back to gain access, is this right?
Just want to make sure I know what's what before I start taking things apart
It is very east to end up with a load of diesel everywhere as the pump and level are a tight fit and when replacing needs a firm push to get back in and get the locking ring on so a 2nd pair of hands is helpful.
It's a delicate balancing act of running the car long enough to get as much fuel out of the tank as possible, but not having it fail 20 miles from home! Although it sounds like vigorously rocking it side to side can splash enough fuel across to get it going again
The alternative being to pump the fuel out into a container and refill it again afterwards of course, but that seems far too sensible!
Little update, although no pictures unfortunately.
Replaced the pump, it was all a lot more obvious once you actually have the bits in front of you
Car runs fine again, although slightly frustratingly the pump itself was indeed fine, and it was just a bit of pipe coming off the siphon that had snapped clean off flush with the siphon, so nothing to really fix it back on with...
The decision was made to just fix it properly, but I do now at least have a spare pump (assuming the tubing can be removed easily) so I suppose that's not so bad... Although given they're generally assumed to last at least 120,000 miles, it's likely to be a while before I need it...
The interior doesn't smell of diesel either, we managed to keep things pretty clean despite the passenger side of the tank being basically full!
The tyres have held some air in for a while now, but a refurb is still needed really as the wheels are an absolute mess. Hopefully it'll just run for a while now, I've yet to actually get through a full tank of fuel...
Replaced the pump, it was all a lot more obvious once you actually have the bits in front of you
Car runs fine again, although slightly frustratingly the pump itself was indeed fine, and it was just a bit of pipe coming off the siphon that had snapped clean off flush with the siphon, so nothing to really fix it back on with...
The decision was made to just fix it properly, but I do now at least have a spare pump (assuming the tubing can be removed easily) so I suppose that's not so bad... Although given they're generally assumed to last at least 120,000 miles, it's likely to be a while before I need it...
The interior doesn't smell of diesel either, we managed to keep things pretty clean despite the passenger side of the tank being basically full!
The tyres have held some air in for a while now, but a refurb is still needed really as the wheels are an absolute mess. Hopefully it'll just run for a while now, I've yet to actually get through a full tank of fuel...
So, when replacing the pump, didn't bother replacing the o-ring seals for the lock rings. They looked in good condition, what could possibly go wrong?
Brimmed the tank yesterday, ready to finally actually get through a full tank and see what sort of economy I'm getting.
Big puddle of diesel under the car after work
So yes, you do need to replace them. Balls!
Brimmed the tank yesterday, ready to finally actually get through a full tank and see what sort of economy I'm getting.
Big puddle of diesel under the car after work
So yes, you do need to replace them. Balls!
The ovlov soldiers on. House DIY is taking precedent over car DIY, so I'm still yet to clean up the o-rings, opting instead to only put in 35 litres at a time ensuring it stays below the dripping point.
My ability to reverse park it without fearing the tow bar is improving, I'm still over cautious though as I really don't want to put the tow bar through someone's bumper. I don't really want to install one of those mirrors on the rear window either, I'm a PHer, I should be able to park perfectly in one move using nothing more than the force
Random picture as I noticed it looking reasonably handsome the other night as I'd parked it with the wheels turned slightly.
My ability to reverse park it without fearing the tow bar is improving, I'm still over cautious though as I really don't want to put the tow bar through someone's bumper. I don't really want to install one of those mirrors on the rear window either, I'm a PHer, I should be able to park perfectly in one move using nothing more than the force
Random picture as I noticed it looking reasonably handsome the other night as I'd parked it with the wheels turned slightly.
Hi, great story. I had a 2007 D5 sport. Fastest car I have ever owned. Nice engine. Love the quality feel and the seats. I struggled with the 6 speed manual box which was always difficult to get into 1st and 2nd. Clutch slave cylinder failed which on my Range Rover was £20 and could be done without even lifting the car. I took it to Volvo .... £900 including a new clutch. Fortunately it did not need the dual mass flywheel. I replaced the V70 with an Avensis ...... It's ok but not inspiring in any way. I May well go back to a Volvo.
How about including a picture of Eleanor? My username will tell you why I am interested.
How about including a picture of Eleanor? My username will tell you why I am interested.
Yogioes said:
How about including a picture of Eleanor? My username will tell you why I am interested.
As much as she enjoys the extra space, there's still the odd (unsuccessful) attempt to join mummy and daddy up front...
Ovlov successfully performed its duties ferrying the three of us from Northampton to Penzance and back in comfort without exploding, doggers was pleased to have her bed in the back for extra comfort. She also made plenty of friends on the Scillonian and on the Isles of Scilly. She didn't discover the sea, but did enjoy sand.
Poor Ovlov had another couple of tip runs to spice up its weekend, some slightly damp contents meant it didn't smell too pleasant on the drive but that's cleared fortunately! Homing in on 130,000 miles now, still haven't sorted the o-ring, so 35 litre fill ups still
So it's been a while, time for an update.
Continuing the Ovlov's hard knock life, the tight B-road commute to work ended in a pothole large enough to be seen from space consuming the near side front wheel.
Fully split it at the barrel, so half the wheel is still inside the tyre, the front face and some of the barrel still connected to the hub. Needless to say, that didn't sound or feel very nice.
Silver lining? The boot contained a large blanket, socket set and set of gardening gloves, so changing it was a relative breeze. Volvo even include a huge white plastic bag to store the removed wheel in so you don't get your interior dirty, genius!
So eventually a replacement wheel was sourced for £130 (took a while to find a decent one that wasn't also £200+) and in the meantime the old Clio stepped up to commute duties.
Unfortunately, the impact didn't help the tracking at all. The wheel was 45* off centre when going straight ahead, and the whole car felt very 'nervous', which I attributed to its wide boy toe out stance.
The Clio is on winter tyres so the Ovlov sat unused until it seemed prudent to get it sorted ready for an MOT and tax renewal. Time to give the old girl some love, new Meyle heavy duty lower wishbones, new Meyle heavy duty inner / outer track rod ends (the old ones were so corroded a garage quoted me £200 to cut them off and 're-thread' the rack... Fail to see why they wouldn't just replace the inner ends... alas I declined) and new front and rear Meyle heavy duty drop links.
The drop links were helpfully lost by Royal Mail, remaining new parts went on, and all seemed OK.
60 seconds down the road from the workshop where we'd fitted everything, nasty vibration that I'd attributed to the new wheel not being well balanced got appreciably worse and with an almighty graunching sound, the near side driveshaft inner CV gave up.
With no drive, one of the guys who'd helped came and towed me back with his 460ci 60s Ford pickup. That was an interesting sight
New driveshaft ordered, delivered and installed, over to the MOT place.
Massive fail.
The near side (seeing a theme here?) shock absorber was apparently leaking badly (both fronts have been 'lightly misted' for years on the old MOTs, presumably that pot hole was enough to kill it off) although maybe this was just all the penetrating fluid and CV grease everywhere
The near side (there it is again!) rear suspension arm was fractured / split, an end we'd stupidly just ignored assuming all the damage was at the broken wheel end, and thus it was this that was causing the preposterously wayward handling...
Rear tyres apparently shot to bits and the rubber on the replacement wheel was also too low (this surprised me as it looked / felt fine, but it's not an issue as the original Pilot Sport 4 from the broken wheel is going back on here)
Now as it's the 4C suspension, those shocks are expensive, turns out buying a pair is barely much more expensive than buying just the one, so Ovlov is getting 2 new Monroe shock absorbers, the front and rear Meyle drop links finally arrived, and new rear suspension arms...
We'll be bolting these bits on hopefully tomorrow, with a ginger drive over to a tyre place for some rears and another shot at an MOT.
Whilst it was in bits we also took out the fuel pump O-ring and cleaned it all up, so hopefully I can brim the tank again without it leaking.
Currently I hate the blasted thing with the fire of a thousand suns, but I'm too deep down the rabbit hole now, I've got to get some life out of all these shiny new parts!!!
In other news, doggers had a haircut and now thinks she is right posh
Continuing the Ovlov's hard knock life, the tight B-road commute to work ended in a pothole large enough to be seen from space consuming the near side front wheel.
Fully split it at the barrel, so half the wheel is still inside the tyre, the front face and some of the barrel still connected to the hub. Needless to say, that didn't sound or feel very nice.
Silver lining? The boot contained a large blanket, socket set and set of gardening gloves, so changing it was a relative breeze. Volvo even include a huge white plastic bag to store the removed wheel in so you don't get your interior dirty, genius!
So eventually a replacement wheel was sourced for £130 (took a while to find a decent one that wasn't also £200+) and in the meantime the old Clio stepped up to commute duties.
Unfortunately, the impact didn't help the tracking at all. The wheel was 45* off centre when going straight ahead, and the whole car felt very 'nervous', which I attributed to its wide boy toe out stance.
The Clio is on winter tyres so the Ovlov sat unused until it seemed prudent to get it sorted ready for an MOT and tax renewal. Time to give the old girl some love, new Meyle heavy duty lower wishbones, new Meyle heavy duty inner / outer track rod ends (the old ones were so corroded a garage quoted me £200 to cut them off and 're-thread' the rack... Fail to see why they wouldn't just replace the inner ends... alas I declined) and new front and rear Meyle heavy duty drop links.
The drop links were helpfully lost by Royal Mail, remaining new parts went on, and all seemed OK.
60 seconds down the road from the workshop where we'd fitted everything, nasty vibration that I'd attributed to the new wheel not being well balanced got appreciably worse and with an almighty graunching sound, the near side driveshaft inner CV gave up.
With no drive, one of the guys who'd helped came and towed me back with his 460ci 60s Ford pickup. That was an interesting sight
New driveshaft ordered, delivered and installed, over to the MOT place.
Massive fail.
The near side (seeing a theme here?) shock absorber was apparently leaking badly (both fronts have been 'lightly misted' for years on the old MOTs, presumably that pot hole was enough to kill it off) although maybe this was just all the penetrating fluid and CV grease everywhere
The near side (there it is again!) rear suspension arm was fractured / split, an end we'd stupidly just ignored assuming all the damage was at the broken wheel end, and thus it was this that was causing the preposterously wayward handling...
Rear tyres apparently shot to bits and the rubber on the replacement wheel was also too low (this surprised me as it looked / felt fine, but it's not an issue as the original Pilot Sport 4 from the broken wheel is going back on here)
Now as it's the 4C suspension, those shocks are expensive, turns out buying a pair is barely much more expensive than buying just the one, so Ovlov is getting 2 new Monroe shock absorbers, the front and rear Meyle drop links finally arrived, and new rear suspension arms...
We'll be bolting these bits on hopefully tomorrow, with a ginger drive over to a tyre place for some rears and another shot at an MOT.
Whilst it was in bits we also took out the fuel pump O-ring and cleaned it all up, so hopefully I can brim the tank again without it leaking.
Currently I hate the blasted thing with the fire of a thousand suns, but I'm too deep down the rabbit hole now, I've got to get some life out of all these shiny new parts!!!
In other news, doggers had a haircut and now thinks she is right posh
Edited by SturdyHSV on Friday 10th March 15:46
Your ownership experience sounds exactly like mine!
Bought unseen from eBay - check
Changed wishbones - check
Coasted to a halt with just under 1/4 of a tank left - check!
Haven't done my fuel pump yet but it's on the list
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Bought unseen from eBay - check
Changed wishbones - check
Coasted to a halt with just under 1/4 of a tank left - check!
Haven't done my fuel pump yet but it's on the list
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Roger Woods said:
To be fair it is OBC but i have found it to only be no more than 2 mpg out in the past. I wont be far off putting 30k on it this year . Have you seen the 2004 mdl for sale with way over 600000 on it at 995 im tempted just because you can!
It's odd isn't it? I had a V40 a few years back with an OBC that was fairly accurate but the one on my V70 seems miles out - I use a iPhone app to track the miles covered and fuel used to work it out. I do need to change the fuel pump at some point, not sure whether that will make a difference (probably not!).There's a certain kudos in owning a super high mileage car - go for it!
carreauchompeur said:
Interesting thread, I'm after a V70 D5 in a couple of months.
What age are the 'good' ones? Keep hearing that the EU3 is the one to get...
2005 with facelift and euro 3 is the pinnacle. Sadly though the market is wise to it and V70s and S60s are all showing up priced accordingly What age are the 'good' ones? Keep hearing that the EU3 is the one to get...
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff