Knackered old Porsche with loads of miles - 996 content

[tgr]

nul points!

[poppopbangbang]

I suppose it's time for a bit of an update. Not a huge amount to report really, I've epically failed to get any proper mileage onto it over the last 18 months or so as there was very few places to actually go! I did lots of planned maintenance earlier this year as mentioned above with a front damper rebuild and brake line refresh (20+ years for a couple of the OEM hard lines is pretty good going!). During this I noticed the top mount sphericals were getting on to being done and due to them being an odd size they're on back order still, hence I've fitted some Elephant Racing mounts that I had kicking about as a stand in:



The winter mods are well under way with air-con going back on it in the form of e-AC as part of testing for another project I'm involved in, I've been considering re-airconing the car for a while as it's not like it mostly runs at night anymore! Aim with this is just to maintain ambient temperature inside the car (ACO style ) so just one heat exchanger is going in the nose - big props to the ally rads that went in many years ago and are still in great condition!



E-AC compressor in the nose on the PAS side to balance the driver and move a little more mass forwards. There is quite a bit of HVH research required here so we'll see what its like on solid mounts first.



The system will use the standard 996 evaporator and expansion valve with a boggo aftermarket dryer. Lines are fabbed up to suit the install with one entering through the standard point in the arch and the other through a spare bung in the nose. Bit of wiring work to do but nothing too major due to the convenient battery location and the fact the car already has a SuperB fitted that is quite happy with big transient currents etc.

I'll be using the data system already on the car to monitor the inrush, temps and a few other bits whilst the compressor itself is commanded off the standard 996 climate control head unit.

I'm also aiming to finally get the composite front wings fitted over winter and I've got a load of broken floor studs to sort out.... to avoid welding bits and then having the same problems in ten years time I'm tempted to try DP490'ing some big heads onto the floor..... if it works on an LMP car.....

I've still got my Bose 996 Turbo sub floating about too..... it feels like a step too far to actually put a working stereo back in it as it's done ten years of hard work with a single working front speaker. This air-con lark might be a slippery slope to soft suspension and Radio 4!

[HughG]

poppopbangbang said:

A lot of the fasteners on the car are Ti, mainly because it makes it a lot more serviceable as they never corrode.

Great thread, thanks for all the insight into what you have done to the car. This thread and Jethro's video on his were major influences on getting mine.

A quick query on the photo above, presumable Ti exhaust studs and nuts have the benefit that they done corrode, and if the stud does corrode and sieze in the head it shouldn't matter. Do you have any issues between the Ti studs and manifold (assuming stainless - though I guess it may not be...)?

[poppopbangbang]

HughG said:

Great thread, thanks for all the insight into what you have done to the car. This thread and Jethro's video on his were major influences on getting mine.

Jethros car is my old one, I built it prior to this C4

HughG said:

A quick query on the photo above, presumable Ti exhaust studs and nuts have the benefit that they done corrode, and if the stud does corrode and sieze in the head it shouldn't matter. Do you have any issues between the Ti studs and manifold (assuming stainless - though I guess it may not be...)?

Don't use Ti nuts, it's far better to use a coated K-Nut (which is what is in the picture you posted) which is softer than the stud and therefore can be wound off no matter what the state it's in as there is no corrosive bond between the nut and stud. I guess what you are asking regarding the manifolds is related to galvanic corrosion and Ti being far more noble? If so it's just not a problem on the time scales and environment we are talking, the manifolds will fail from cracking upstream way before anything at the flange end is an issue.

[HughG]

Now you mention it I recall having read that before. How standard was that car when you sold it?

So with the exhaust manifolds, Ti studs, K nuts, and stainless manifold is optimal, and better than just replacing the standard bolts? Many thanks

[English expat]

I can only concur again with everyone. This thread is amazing and was read 3 or 4 times prior to my recent purchase of a 996.1 C2. Another very happy new owner to add to the list directly influenced Mr. PPBB

[stevesingo]

poppopbangbang said:

Another interesting insight

Question if a may, what is the current draw on the AC pump?

[darreni]

Talking of k nuts - I’m in the process of replacing the discs on an AP big brake kit ( Ali bells/ performance friction discs) - the existing AP disc bolts and nuts are heavily corroded & need to be cut off, so I was thinking of using the AP bolts but replacing the supplied mild steel nuts with k nuts.
Worth while or a waste of time?

[poppopbangbang]

HughG said:

Now you mention it I recall having read that before. How standard was that car when you sold it?

Not that standard but not that modified either, Bilsteins, exhausts, 3.4 Autofarm motor, LSD, lobster claws etc.

HughG said:

So with the exhaust manifolds, Ti studs, K nuts, and stainless manifold is optimal, and better than just replacing the standard bolts? Many thanks

You can use the standard manifolds if you're not seeking a performance improvement. The standard bolts will hold the manifolds on just as well as studs and nuts but once you've gone to the drama of removing them at 10+ years old it makes a lot of sense to replace them with something that won't give you the same faff next time around!

[poppopbangbang]

stevesingo said:

Question if a may, what is the current draw on the AC pump?

At 1.1KW cooling it pulls about 37 amps. You can drive them up to 2 and a bit KWs of cooling but they'll pull a good 70 amps at that!

[poppopbangbang]

darreni said:

Talking of k nuts - I’m in the process of replacing the discs on an AP big brake kit ( Ali bells/ performance friction discs) - the existing AP disc bolts and nuts are heavily corroded & need to be cut off, so I was thinking of using the AP bolts but replacing the supplied mild steel nuts with k nuts.
Worth while or a waste of time?

The disc to bell bolts and nuts (and washers if they are spec'd) should be single use only so if what you have lasted the life of the discs and aren't too much of a hassle to remove then running them again will be the cheapest option. You can use K-Nuts and benefit from the AV/Self locking they offer and most motorsport applications use K-Nuts but they are quite a lot more than a boggo nut

[stevesingo]

poppopbangbang said:

stevesingo said:

Question if a may, what is the current draw on the AC pump?

At 1.1KW cooling it pulls about 37 amps. You can drive them up to 2 and a bit KWs of cooling but they'll pull a good 70 amps at that!

Cripes.

That is quite a lot.

Thanks for answering.

[ATM]

My little Lithium Ion battery has arrived for my 996. Can I remove the standard heavy battery tray too or does it serve any other purpose?

[poppopbangbang]

ATM said:

My little Lithium Ion battery has arrived for my 996. Can I remove the standard heavy battery tray too or does it serve any other purpose?

On a C2 I think it covers the fuel tank top cover but you can remove it, or just hole cutter it to get the weight out and use it to bolt the retaining cage for the lithium too. That way you don't need to modify the scuttle or make a custom retaining cage.

[ATM]

poppopbangbang said:

ATM said:

My little Lithium Ion battery has arrived for my 996. Can I remove the standard heavy battery tray too or does it serve any other purpose?

On a C2 I think it covers the fuel tank top cover but you can remove it, or just hole cutter it to get the weight out and use it to bolt the retaining cage for the lithium too. That way you don't need to modify the scuttle or make a custom retaining cage.

So this isn't approved

[poppopbangbang]

I'm not overly keen on that myself

This is mine:



Super B Andrena with the Super B supplied bracket

https://www.super-b.com/en/products/andrena-12v20a...
https://www.super-b.com/en/products/accessories/ba...

Great bit of kit and been on there for four years + faultlessly, slight downside is they're £800 a pop!

[ATM]

I paid £220 for this little Lithium. I've seen some others cheaper on Flea~Bay but some comments about not using specific batteries made for car starting put me off using one made for a Golf Trolley.

[Stick Legs]

Brilliant thread.
Love the car.

[Stead79]

I’ll jump on the ‘you influenced me into buying a 996’. Well more the get on with it and buy the car you’ve always wanted. Happily enjoying my C4s now. Thanks

[Paynewright]

Advice needed from PPBB

Just doing the exhaust manifold bolts - they looked dire but luckily only 4 snapped!

I have one of your Ti stud kits - does the long or short threaded portion go into the head? The long section seems to bottom out before all the thread is wound in (only 1/2 a turn showing). I’ve skimmed through this topic and one pic shows quite a lot of thread protrusion out of the K nut so thinking it should be short end in the head.

If you could confirm that would be great.

Cheers
Ian