2006 MX-5 2.0 Option Pack
Discussion
Evoluzione said:
If they were any good they'd be keeping them. I wouldn't trust their 'approx 25 laps', but even that amount on a race car will have taken a lot out of the tyre - that's before the fact they're too narrow to be of much use. You want a 225 or 235 on an 8" rim
Makes total sense. Cheers
JMcD said:
How did you find the vogtland springs perform with the standard (Non bilstein) shocks? Like you im attracted to them because of the price and the worry that the eibach's can sag over time. Did you notice the vogtlands sagging at all?
I haven't had any sagging issues with them, they've been good and I seem to remember the price being quite reasonable. They seemed to work well with the standard shocks, along with the Konis that replaced them (which is lucky as I did no real research about spring rates and damper valving etc.).geraintthomas said:
There's a set of actual Enkei RFP1 17x8's on ebay at the moment, with a full set of Toyo R888's for £995 ONO. By the time you put tyres on a replica set, you'll be close to the offering price of that.
Thanks. That's a reasonable price for genuine Enkeis, although I'd ideally like silver or gold/bronze and as mentioned the tyres may or may not be a welcome addition. The R888R is a great tyre in the dry though, I wish I could buy another set for what I paid for my first set (£300 fitted).Edited by Accelebrate on Friday 21st August 11:10
Time for another oil change. Nothing new here, my usual Shell/Mann combo that's generally always about £30 in Euros, curse Mazda for their filter location, etc etc...
geraintthomas's thread reminded me that I've never cleaned the seatbelts, this supposedly works wonders for the common NC bugbear that they're lethargic to retract.
I clamped the belts fully extended, submerged them in a bucket of carpet cleaning solution and scrubbed with a stiff brush. A decent amount of muck came out so I was hopefully for the results. After drying overnight the retraction is improved, but not perfect. It's become second nature to encourage the belt to retract when I park up, so I won't lose too much sleep over it.
geraintthomas's thread reminded me that I've never cleaned the seatbelts, this supposedly works wonders for the common NC bugbear that they're lethargic to retract.
I clamped the belts fully extended, submerged them in a bucket of carpet cleaning solution and scrubbed with a stiff brush. A decent amount of muck came out so I was hopefully for the results. After drying overnight the retraction is improved, but not perfect. It's become second nature to encourage the belt to retract when I park up, so I won't lose too much sleep over it.
Accelebrate said:
I clamped the belts fully extended, submerged them in a bucket of carpet cleaning solution and scrubbed with a stiff brush. A decent amount of muck came out so I was hopefully for the results. After drying overnight the retraction is improved, but not perfect. It's become second nature to encourage the belt to retract when I park up, so I won't lose too much sleep over it.
I have exactly the same, also tried cleaning, no effect. I updated to the later seatbelt guides (different design than early NC1) which again helped but didn't cure it.Oil change - what do you do with the old oil? I've no idea what/where/how to dispose of it, the one thing that stops me doing my own servicing.
RenesisEvo said:
Accelebrate said:
I clamped the belts fully extended, submerged them in a bucket of carpet cleaning solution and scrubbed with a stiff brush. A decent amount of muck came out so I was hopefully for the results. After drying overnight the retraction is improved, but not perfect. It's become second nature to encourage the belt to retract when I park up, so I won't lose too much sleep over it.
I have exactly the same, also tried cleaning, no effect. I updated to the later seatbelt guides (different design than early NC1) which again helped but didn't cure it.Oil change - what do you do with the old oil? I've no idea what/where/how to dispose of it, the one thing that stops me doing my own servicing.
Old oil into oil pan
new oil into engine
old oil into new oil bottles (use funnel, take time!)
take old oil to local recycling cite where you pour it into a big bowser which is taken away to be recycled.
RenesisEvo said:
Accelebrate said:
I clamped the belts fully extended, submerged them in a bucket of carpet cleaning solution and scrubbed with a stiff brush. A decent amount of muck came out so I was hopefully for the results. After drying overnight the retraction is improved, but not perfect. It's become second nature to encourage the belt to retract when I park up, so I won't lose too much sleep over it.
I have exactly the same, also tried cleaning, no effect. I updated to the later seatbelt guides (different design than early NC1) which again helped but didn't cure it.Oil change - what do you do with the old oil? I've no idea what/where/how to dispose of it, the one thing that stops me doing my own servicing.
As far as oil goes, my local tip has a colossal liquid container that you can tip oil into. I just splashed out on a 25l jug from ebay for about a tenner and will store it there until it's full then run it to the tip with other bits and pieces. I keep a few 5l jugs from screen washes too for old anti-freeze or other liquids I need to store prior to disposal.
The containers that double up as a drain pan are quite handy if you're short on space...
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/demon-tweeks-oil-drai...
The previous owner of our house left an old 1930s Pratts petrol can behind. It holds a couple of changes worth, which is usually enough time for me to be going to the tip anyway.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/demon-tweeks-oil-drai...
The previous owner of our house left an old 1930s Pratts petrol can behind. It holds a couple of changes worth, which is usually enough time for me to be going to the tip anyway.
MagicalTrevor said:
R888s were a very good tyre but the last of them was made so long ago that the rubber is no longer soft.
The tyres in the listing are the newer R888R, so could be quite recent. They’re a good tyre in the dry, although possibly not the best choice for the MX5 unless you can carry a second set of wheels. I was caught out at a couple of track days by the weather when I used them.
Accelebrate said:
The tyres in the listing are the newer R888R, so could be quite recent.
They’re a good tyre in the dry, although possibly not the best choice for the MX5 unless you can carry a second set of wheels. I was caught out at a couple of track days by the weather when I used them.
Apologies, so they are. I saw the 'R888' and therefore thought they weren't the 'R' version.They’re a good tyre in the dry, although possibly not the best choice for the MX5 unless you can carry a second set of wheels. I was caught out at a couple of track days by the weather when I used them.
I 3D printed a simple rollbar mount for a GoPro. I'd previously put a mount on the plastic windbreaker that used to live there, but it was always a bit wobbly. This seems very stable.
It also prevents me from damaging the powder coat on the bar if I don't lift the soft top up high enough when raising the roof.
Shared on Thingiverse if anyone wants to do the same... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4580084
It also prevents me from damaging the powder coat on the bar if I don't lift the soft top up high enough when raising the roof.
Shared on Thingiverse if anyone wants to do the same... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4580084
I'm not sure, I'm printing at home so I've never really explored the commercial options. I noticed that the OP in this thread ordered some door trim pieces that he'd designed, he might have a recommendation:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I've been stocking up on service supplies. Shell 5w40 is super cheap when eBay offer 20% off Euro Car Parts store, I think I paid £22 per 5L bottle. The Mann filters were from CarParts4Less for £5 a filter.
I also picked up some spare bulbs as most of the bulbs in the spare bulb kit I've carried through France a number of times don't fit the capless bulbs in the NC. Curiously, whilst fiddling about with green indicator bulbs for tinting the rear lights I noticed that all of the bulbs were the same Japanese brand. I assume that might mean that they're all original - it's sad, but I found this mildly interesting given the age/mileage.
I've also swapped the spark plugs. I did them when I first purchased the car in 2016, I've only done a little over 30k since then. I think the service interval is 60k, but I'm a sucker for preventative maintenance. The OE plugs are Mazda or Ford branded NGKs, last time I ordered the NGK equivalent, they're reasonably pricey. Denso offer an equivalent plug for about half the price. On the basis that both are iridium plugs from well respected Japanese manufacturers I didn't really see the point in paying more for NGK just because it's OE. Like oil I'd rather buy cheaper stuff from a decent brand and replace ahead of schedule.
I always look at spark plug charts and conclude they're both too hot, cold, rich and lean all at once.
They were at least all consistent, and about the same as the last set I took out.
I also picked up some spare bulbs as most of the bulbs in the spare bulb kit I've carried through France a number of times don't fit the capless bulbs in the NC. Curiously, whilst fiddling about with green indicator bulbs for tinting the rear lights I noticed that all of the bulbs were the same Japanese brand. I assume that might mean that they're all original - it's sad, but I found this mildly interesting given the age/mileage.
I've also swapped the spark plugs. I did them when I first purchased the car in 2016, I've only done a little over 30k since then. I think the service interval is 60k, but I'm a sucker for preventative maintenance. The OE plugs are Mazda or Ford branded NGKs, last time I ordered the NGK equivalent, they're reasonably pricey. Denso offer an equivalent plug for about half the price. On the basis that both are iridium plugs from well respected Japanese manufacturers I didn't really see the point in paying more for NGK just because it's OE. Like oil I'd rather buy cheaper stuff from a decent brand and replace ahead of schedule.
I always look at spark plug charts and conclude they're both too hot, cold, rich and lean all at once.
They were at least all consistent, and about the same as the last set I took out.Earlier in this thread I 3D printed some door bushes, they made a more noticeable difference than I was expecting but I only used PLA and they deteriorated over time so I reverted back to the originals. Someone on the often-mentioned NC Facebook group was selling some Delrin replacements that they'd CNC'd in their garage for not a lot...
They're a better fit than the design I printed, the door requires no extra effort to close.
Whilst out for a drive in the sun yesterday I called into some bloke off the TVs farm shop.
They're a better fit than the design I printed, the door requires no extra effort to close.
Whilst out for a drive in the sun yesterday I called into some bloke off the TVs farm shop.
Edited by Accelebrate on Monday 14th September 12:43
Evoluzione said:
I've always filed Delrin door bushes in the Snake oil folder along with 'performance' air filters.
They don't really make sense and whatever they do cannot be proven.
Why? Anything that stops the rear of the car moving up and down relative to the door will improve rigidity.They don't really make sense and whatever they do cannot be proven.
My buddies alfa spider has metal cones that engage with the doors when they close to tie the structure together when the door is closed - those were OE fitment. Might not affect torsional stiffness much but would increase bending stiffness. It's a cheap and very lightweight mod even if it does nothing.
Wouldn't be too hard to prove if they did anything if one has a chassis jig.
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