UK Integra R. Low miles & minty fresh
Discussion
chrismc1977 said:
EUDM (UK) cars got a different manifold & cat as standard. Not the best pieces of engineering!
Smaller primaries, collector diameter & longer thinner cat as well. JDM cars are listed as +10bhp on EU cars. Header, cat, & mapping on 102Ron fuel accounts for this.
Fortunately I picked up a 98 JDM 4-1 header with Cat & B-pipe for mine.
At least I know it’s breathing properly with the best OEM bits now.
Should be around the 180-185 mark. UK cars tend to make a bit less than quoted 187 as standard with the cast manifold. 175-180hp flywheel is about right.
My first DC2 made bang on stock (187) power with a Mugen airbox & twinloop. Mapping found +9hp peak & a big jump in the mid range. Power came from leaning the mixture. Mapped rich (safe) from the factory....
I did wonder if the manifolds might be different. The 98 Spec 4-1 is a great design and hard to improve for flow. Even the Mugen 4-1 is basically the same, only of stainless instead of tubular mild steel. If I hadn't found a Mugen manifold for the CRX-R, I'd have used an ITR 98 spec's instead. Smaller primaries, collector diameter & longer thinner cat as well. JDM cars are listed as +10bhp on EU cars. Header, cat, & mapping on 102Ron fuel accounts for this.
Fortunately I picked up a 98 JDM 4-1 header with Cat & B-pipe for mine.
At least I know it’s breathing properly with the best OEM bits now.
Should be around the 180-185 mark. UK cars tend to make a bit less than quoted 187 as standard with the cast manifold. 175-180hp flywheel is about right.
My first DC2 made bang on stock (187) power with a Mugen airbox & twinloop. Mapping found +9hp peak & a big jump in the mid range. Power came from leaning the mixture. Mapped rich (safe) from the factory....
I also fitted a Tegiwa 2.5" decat pipe (just needs a few spot welds to hold the 2 pieces in position, once fitted), as recommended by Maz of Hond-R, when fitting a similar exhaust system to the CRX-R (& used the DC2 cat on it too).
I really like the Spoon ECU, which lowers the V-Tec changeover point to 5,100 and raises the rev limit to 9,000. I still run it on Super unleaded 98 RON, occasionally using 95, if I can't get the good stuff out in the countryside. The 9k limit is rarely visited as there's really no need with the gear ratio spacing, in order to keep V-Tec on the boil, but the earlier changeover is a welcome improvement. Fueling is spot on, according to the plugs. Not rich, although this may be helped by less restriction on the twin loop exhaust. I think people sell Spoon ECU's on Ebay, a friend bought one on there recently for his, if this is of interest.
Car now has PBS brake pads all round, all calipers freshly bled & slider pins cleaned & lubed.
ITR rear calipers are a nuisance to bleed successfully in situ & need to come off with bleed nipple pointing upwards to get rid of all the air. Very worthwhile doing so as pedal feels very good now (obviously a small amount of air was trapped!)- & will improve further once the pads have bedded in.
Amazing how fresh suspension & better brakes make the car feel so much more together.
ITR rear calipers are a nuisance to bleed successfully in situ & need to come off with bleed nipple pointing upwards to get rid of all the air. Very worthwhile doing so as pedal feels very good now (obviously a small amount of air was trapped!)- & will improve further once the pads have bedded in.
Amazing how fresh suspension & better brakes make the car feel so much more together.
BrotherMouzone said:
Sounds awesome! I guess the refresh ‘project’ must be completed now? If not what’s next?
Yes it’s certainly all good mechanically now.The extra grip has made me wonder if a baffled sump might be a wise investment mind you....
A few more cosmetic bits to deal with next along with my spare wheels refurbed in CW.
There will always be something!!
Definitely baffle the sump - I forgot to mention that - my car used to drop out of VTEC on track due to lack of oil pressure while cornering before I baffled the sump. Glad you are liking the Spoon setup, I think I'll replace the Mister-Rs with Spoon dampers at some point this year.
Here's a video of myself and pro-racing racing driver mate of mine messing about with my integra at donnington late last year. not driven the car for a while, still great fun on a circuit although it lacks outright speed compared to even average warm hatches these days, it still corners really well, esp in damp conditions with the LSD.
https://youtu.be/Rbo5CpcAs9g
Here's a video of myself and pro-racing racing driver mate of mine messing about with my integra at donnington late last year. not driven the car for a while, still great fun on a circuit although it lacks outright speed compared to even average warm hatches these days, it still corners really well, esp in damp conditions with the LSD.
https://youtu.be/Rbo5CpcAs9g
chrismc1977 said:
Not much new with the DC2
Have recently moved & just waiting to tuck the car into my new double garage.
Wheels to refurb- minor cosmetics to fix- oh & have a set of Spoon springs to fit when I’m bored. Should compliment the dampers perfectly & give a subtle drop
I agree regarding the subtle drop in ride height. I've got Eibach lowering springs on mine and definitely prefer the look to standard height. Have recently moved & just waiting to tuck the car into my new double garage.
Wheels to refurb- minor cosmetics to fix- oh & have a set of Spoon springs to fit when I’m bored. Should compliment the dampers perfectly & give a subtle drop
Let's see how it looks when you get round to it. Dont forget to take before and after pictures for comparison.
Car has been tucked up & SORN’d since March with house stuff taking priority- & has been sat under cover in the garage.
Have recently managed to acquire an OEM rear strut brace though. Not cheap but genuinely rare to find now.
Most folk nowadays use a front bar & attach it to Tegiwa replica rear brackets- but these are known to be pretty soft- as well as being the wrong colour so were never ever a consideration for me.
I have also managed to find templates for cutting the rear strut covers as well- so il be able to take some time & do a nice clean install as below:
Have recently managed to acquire an OEM rear strut brace though. Not cheap but genuinely rare to find now.
Most folk nowadays use a front bar & attach it to Tegiwa replica rear brackets- but these are known to be pretty soft- as well as being the wrong colour so were never ever a consideration for me.
I have also managed to find templates for cutting the rear strut covers as well- so il be able to take some time & do a nice clean install as below:
bjcracing said:
That's looking really smart !!
Thanks. With the correct templates for cutting the strut covers & some black rubber edging it will look like a factory install as per the Honda Access instructions.It’s certainly quite well up together now.
Away working out of the uk at the moment - but I really must find time to swap on my Spoon Springs once I’m back
Not a whole lot new with the Integra.
It’s safely garaged up for the winter. Will need a new battery come spring time despite using an Optimate.
Soon to get my spare wheels painted along with a NOS Honda bonnet I’m due to collect on Saturday. The original has previously been repaired- but this repair has now failed! UK cars suffer with road grime getting between the seal & bonnet lip & they eventually corrode from the inside out along the front lip & around the catch area.
I’ve certainly got very lucky with the bonnet. Long since no longer available from Honda (along with several other DC2 parts!) & thus the normal route is to have to buy one from a breaker & have that repaired/painted. Either that or folk go with carbon items.
With a new bonnet. & the car no longer seeing poor weather I’m confident it should last much better than the 20+ years the original has lasted.
Biggest headache has been sourcing the OEM SRS decal that is stuck to the bonnet underside to keep it all 100% OEM. Fortunately all sorted now & en route from the land of the rising sun!
It’s safely garaged up for the winter. Will need a new battery come spring time despite using an Optimate.
Soon to get my spare wheels painted along with a NOS Honda bonnet I’m due to collect on Saturday. The original has previously been repaired- but this repair has now failed! UK cars suffer with road grime getting between the seal & bonnet lip & they eventually corrode from the inside out along the front lip & around the catch area.
I’ve certainly got very lucky with the bonnet. Long since no longer available from Honda (along with several other DC2 parts!) & thus the normal route is to have to buy one from a breaker & have that repaired/painted. Either that or folk go with carbon items.
With a new bonnet. & the car no longer seeing poor weather I’m confident it should last much better than the 20+ years the original has lasted.
Biggest headache has been sourcing the OEM SRS decal that is stuck to the bonnet underside to keep it all 100% OEM. Fortunately all sorted now & en route from the land of the rising sun!
chrismc1977 said:
Not a whole lot new with the Integra.
It’s safely garaged up for the winter. Will need a new battery come spring time despite using an Optimate.
Soon to get my spare wheels painted along with a NOS Honda bonnet I’m due to collect on Saturday. The original has previously been repaired- but this repair has now failed! UK cars suffer with road grime getting between the seal & bonnet lip & they eventually corrode from the inside out along the front lip & around the catch area.
I’ve certainly got very lucky with the bonnet. Long since no longer available from Honda (along with several other DC2 parts!) & thus the normal route is to have to buy one from a breaker & have that repaired/painted. Either that or folk go with carbon items.
With a new bonnet. & the car no longer seeing poor weather I’m confident it should last much better than the 20+ years the original has lasted.
Biggest headache has been sourcing the OEM SRS decal that is stuck to the bonnet underside to keep it all 100% OEM. Fortunately all sorted now & en route from the land of the rising sun!
Not sure if you know of them; but ICB Motorsport across The Pond can be really good for OEM stuff:It’s safely garaged up for the winter. Will need a new battery come spring time despite using an Optimate.
Soon to get my spare wheels painted along with a NOS Honda bonnet I’m due to collect on Saturday. The original has previously been repaired- but this repair has now failed! UK cars suffer with road grime getting between the seal & bonnet lip & they eventually corrode from the inside out along the front lip & around the catch area.
I’ve certainly got very lucky with the bonnet. Long since no longer available from Honda (along with several other DC2 parts!) & thus the normal route is to have to buy one from a breaker & have that repaired/painted. Either that or folk go with carbon items.
With a new bonnet. & the car no longer seeing poor weather I’m confident it should last much better than the 20+ years the original has lasted.
Biggest headache has been sourcing the OEM SRS decal that is stuck to the bonnet underside to keep it all 100% OEM. Fortunately all sorted now & en route from the land of the rising sun!
https://www.icbmotorsport.com/
Used them quite a bit myself when I had my Jap import EG6 SiR-S, EK9 and DC5 etc
Could be worth a look; although that can be dangerous too
d_a_n1979 said:
Not sure if you know of them; but ICB Motorsport across The Pond can be really good for OEM stuff:
https://www.icbmotorsport.com/
Used them quite a bit myself when I had my Jap import EG6 SiR-S, EK9 and DC5 etc
Could be worth a look; although that can be dangerous too
Ah yes, I follow them on Instagram. Worth keeping in mind for super-rare items! Just need to remove a kidney first. Some of the prices are eye-watering!https://www.icbmotorsport.com/
Used them quite a bit myself when I had my Jap import EG6 SiR-S, EK9 and DC5 etc
Could be worth a look; although that can be dangerous too
good to see its being well preserved, amazing luck to find a new bonnet these have long since been unavailable and was always a bad rust trap water sits inside the front edge.
You are reminding me now I wish I had kept one of my DC2 that would be a nice thing to have for occasional fun.
You are reminding me now I wish I had kept one of my DC2 that would be a nice thing to have for occasional fun.
rallycross said:
good to see its being well preserved, amazing luck to find a new bonnet these have long since been unavailable and was always a bad rust trap water sits inside the front edge.
You are reminding me now I wish I had kept one of my DC2 that would be a nice thing to have for occasional fun.
Yes indeed- it’s a definite water trap. I have always made a point of drying the underside of the bonnet with the seal pulled back knowing it’s a problem area- but the damage was their prior to my ownership.You are reminding me now I wish I had kept one of my DC2 that would be a nice thing to have for occasional fun.
The bonnet is costing a small fortune- but naturally worth the investment on a keeper.
In line the used car market in general prices are continuing to rocket…
chrismc1977 said:
rallycross said:
good to see its being well preserved, amazing luck to find a new bonnet these have long since been unavailable and was always a bad rust trap water sits inside the front edge.
You are reminding me now I wish I had kept one of my DC2 that would be a nice thing to have for occasional fun.
Yes indeed- it’s a definite water trap. I have always made a point of drying the underside of the bonnet with the seal pulled back knowing it’s a problem area- but the damage was their prior to my ownership.You are reminding me now I wish I had kept one of my DC2 that would be a nice thing to have for occasional fun.
The bonnet is costing a small fortune- but naturally worth the investment on a keeper.
In line the used car market in general prices are continuing to rocket…
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