95' Nissan Micra k11 1.0 16v
Discussion
I had one like that as a courtesy car when i had some paintwork carried out on my Fiesta RST, it would change lanes in a cross wind.
There are plenty of these little micras in stamford, all of them delivering takeaways ! Oh and the tiewrap won't hold, i've tried it and the grease is a b
d to clean up.
There are plenty of these little micras in stamford, all of them delivering takeaways ! Oh and the tiewrap won't hold, i've tried it and the grease is a b
d to clean up.HTP99 said:
Currently looking for something similar for my daughter.
What did you pay for it?
Looking at MOT history's for these cars, many seem to either have had or are close to major rust issues though.
Do it! I'm sure she'll love it. I paid £425 for mine, which I believe in hindsight might have been a little over the odds... However, having come from a rusty Mk1 Eunos I wasn't prepared to buy a Micra with rusty sills and arches. This ones got no signs of rust on either, but it has previously failed on seat belt anchorage corrosion - I'm yet to investigate that though. I would have thought it'd be possible to find some out there that aren't rotten? What did you pay for it?
Looking at MOT history's for these cars, many seem to either have had or are close to major rust issues though.
Edited by HTP99 on Wednesday 22 February 18:28
I've given her a clean tonight, and ordered my service parts! (Thanks for the advise Squareflops!) My friends think I've gone mad, but I can't stop smiling
HenryBee said:
HTP99 said:
Currently looking for something similar for my daughter.
What did you pay for it?
Looking at MOT history's for these cars, many seem to either have had or are close to major rust issues though.
Do it! I'm sure she'll love it. I paid £425 for mine, which I believe in hindsight might have been a little over the odds... However, having come from a rusty Mk1 Eunos I wasn't prepared to buy a Micra with rusty sills and arches. This ones got no signs of rust on either, but it has previously failed on seat belt anchorage corrosion - I'm yet to investigate that though. I would have thought it'd be possible to find some out there that aren't rotten? What did you pay for it?
Looking at MOT history's for these cars, many seem to either have had or are close to major rust issues though.
Edited by HTP99 on Wednesday 22 February 18:28
I've given her a clean tonight, and ordered my service parts! (Thanks for the advise Squareflops!) My friends think I've gone mad, but I can't stop smiling
It's really between a Micra, Yaris or KA; the Yaris seems bombproof both mechanically and structurally but they command quite a bit more money or are seriously high on the miles for the money and tend to look a bit more tatty for what I'm looking to spend whereas the Micra seems a tad edgy structurally but mechanicaly they seem just as strong as the Yaris and visually look better as they tend to be lower miles than a Yaris, the KA I think is the weakest of the three and tend to have been through a fair few young owners and consequently have had a harder life but they are very simple cars and there is far more choice out there, plus they are a good looking car.
Ideally I'm looking for a 1ltr Micra 1999 onwards, with a decent MOT (10 months or more ideally), nothing that can give potential serious issues on the latest MOT advisories, for no more than £500, I know they are out there but typically as I'm looking now, they are all bloody miles away.
Few haps with the micra today.
I noticed some green appearing on rubbers and around the screen etc so decided to take all that off
Used this stuff diluted to 1:10 and a toothbrush
and .. better
onto a standard wash blah blah etc
yay look a picture of a clean micra
Evidence of the new front tyres fitted last weekend
before speccying on the Gremlin Rally. A spirited drive through the lanes getting back to the a470 revealed that these (Nexen) Arrowspeeds are actually pretty good! however I also experienced brake fade. That coupled with my MOT tester telling me a while ago that the discs wouldn't pass the next MOT inspired me to replace them. So about 12 today jumped onto ECP and reserved discs and pads at the Cardiff Bay store. I could have had Eicher for £38 or Brembo for £45 so I plumped the extra £7 and splashed out. This was after applying the 30% weekend discount.
I've heard in the past of ECP boxing up 'lesser' brands into more preferable packaging, no idea if this is true or not but a quick check revealed the items I'd bought were actually genuine Brembo, or someone's gone to a hell of a lot of trouble to copy the good stuff
these pads are tiny
I'm sure I've replaced bigger pads on my downhill mountain bike
discs are stamped Brembo also
So got to it. Found a use for my Tekton magnetic holder tray
it conveniently held all of the nuts and bolts for the job with no loses
Working on the near side first, the pads were actually in pretty good condition, I'd say not really needing replacement but I'd started so I finished
I got the caliper up out of the way and the carrier off to remove the disc
with the disc off you can see the inner (and outer) faces are very crusty. The outer edge of the pad was no longer making contact with the face of the disc
outer face. Quite heavily ridged with a sizable lip on the edge of the disc pointing towards excessive wear
inner surface again
Onto fitting the new items then, disc(s) cleaned with brake/clutch cleaner
and a quick comparison between old and new pads
old pads really not that bad, I considered keeping them as back ups but remembered they'd just sit in the garage somewhere for the next 400 years so binned them to save time
stuff fitted and things and stuff
Everything copper slipped that should be slipped
moving on to the off side then and pretty similar story with the disc and pads. Good to see they wore evenly at least
It was whilst trying to push the piston back on the off side caliper that I discovered it was stuck/seized solid. Standard method of trying to push it back was having the caliper in place with inner pad removed and levering the piston with a spanner/screw driver. That didn't work. Time to pull out the C clamp
That didn't work. Boy was it stuck tight.
At this point I took more severe measures. I had the genius/idiotic (not sure which) idea of adding additional lubrication to the piston/seal area to try and get the piston moving. First of all though I had to move the piston out to free it an maximize the lubricated area. I employed my trusty assistant to push the brake pedal down with the engine running to push the piston out without it coming free from the caliper and then
I withdrew silicone grease up into a syringey thing and applied under the dust seal of the caliper and ran it all around to piston to ensure full lubrication
After that, applied the C clamp once more and hey presto, the piston slid back into the caliper very nicely
The piston should now have adequate grease to keep it moving freely for some time. Along with the piston I lubricated the sliders on both carriers with silicone lubricant so ensure the rubbers were looked after, they were free moving before hand but this cant hurt of course
That's pretty much that. Apart from the stuck piston it all went pretty smoothly and a quick test drive was without incident and the pedal feels .. yea good.
Lastly - to all you doubting Thomas's saying the cable tie wouldn't hold the boot on, behold!
hasn't fallen off yet
I noticed some green appearing on rubbers and around the screen etc so decided to take all that off
Used this stuff diluted to 1:10 and a toothbrush
and .. better
onto a standard wash blah blah etc
yay look a picture of a clean micra
Evidence of the new front tyres fitted last weekend
before speccying on the Gremlin Rally. A spirited drive through the lanes getting back to the a470 revealed that these (Nexen) Arrowspeeds are actually pretty good! however I also experienced brake fade. That coupled with my MOT tester telling me a while ago that the discs wouldn't pass the next MOT inspired me to replace them. So about 12 today jumped onto ECP and reserved discs and pads at the Cardiff Bay store. I could have had Eicher for £38 or Brembo for £45 so I plumped the extra £7 and splashed out. This was after applying the 30% weekend discount.
I've heard in the past of ECP boxing up 'lesser' brands into more preferable packaging, no idea if this is true or not but a quick check revealed the items I'd bought were actually genuine Brembo, or someone's gone to a hell of a lot of trouble to copy the good stuff
these pads are tiny
I'm sure I've replaced bigger pads on my downhill mountain bikediscs are stamped Brembo also
So got to it. Found a use for my Tekton magnetic holder tray
it conveniently held all of the nuts and bolts for the job with no loses
Working on the near side first, the pads were actually in pretty good condition, I'd say not really needing replacement but I'd started so I finished
I got the caliper up out of the way and the carrier off to remove the disc
with the disc off you can see the inner (and outer) faces are very crusty. The outer edge of the pad was no longer making contact with the face of the disc
outer face. Quite heavily ridged with a sizable lip on the edge of the disc pointing towards excessive wear
inner surface again
Onto fitting the new items then, disc(s) cleaned with brake/clutch cleaner
and a quick comparison between old and new pads
old pads really not that bad, I considered keeping them as back ups but remembered they'd just sit in the garage somewhere for the next 400 years so binned them to save time
stuff fitted and things and stuff
Everything copper slipped that should be slipped
moving on to the off side then and pretty similar story with the disc and pads. Good to see they wore evenly at least
It was whilst trying to push the piston back on the off side caliper that I discovered it was stuck/seized solid. Standard method of trying to push it back was having the caliper in place with inner pad removed and levering the piston with a spanner/screw driver. That didn't work. Time to pull out the C clamp
That didn't work. Boy was it stuck tight.
At this point I took more severe measures. I had the genius/idiotic (not sure which) idea of adding additional lubrication to the piston/seal area to try and get the piston moving. First of all though I had to move the piston out to free it an maximize the lubricated area. I employed my trusty assistant to push the brake pedal down with the engine running to push the piston out without it coming free from the caliper and then
I withdrew silicone grease up into a syringey thing and applied under the dust seal of the caliper and ran it all around to piston to ensure full lubrication
After that, applied the C clamp once more and hey presto, the piston slid back into the caliper very nicely
The piston should now have adequate grease to keep it moving freely for some time. Along with the piston I lubricated the sliders on both carriers with silicone lubricant so ensure the rubbers were looked after, they were free moving before hand but this cant hurt of course
That's pretty much that. Apart from the stuck piston it all went pretty smoothly and a quick test drive was without incident and the pedal feels .. yea good.
Lastly - to all you doubting Thomas's saying the cable tie wouldn't hold the boot on, behold!
hasn't fallen off yet
AndrewEH1 said:
Should I get a lock up this year a K11 will be my second purchase after a two/four post lift!
The want is so strong!
so much want for a lift, and a garage that could accommodate one! Who'd ever have thought that we'd be hankering after old Japanese economy boxes The want is so strong!
I love my little K11 as much as the boxster genuinely. Six Fiend said:
Excellent works
Hoping to do a bit to mine this week but no takers on my 540i just yet so can't have it back home.
cheers bud. Ohh 540, I'll be giving one a very good clean next weekend hopefully, can't wait to get my hands on it! Hoping to do a bit to mine this week but no takers on my 540i just yet so can't have it back home.
Enjoying seeing the Toad come back to life
well, thanks photobucket 
years and years of threads on quite a few cars dead; if anyone ever did want to read through them. Rubbish.
Well, this may as well be post 1 of this thread as it will be pictures from here only. I've signed up to Flickr so lets see if they can keep 3rd party hosting simple.
Due to a change in my personal circumstances and an imminent house move I haven't really had the inclination to do/post much for the last few months. I'll be in a new house soon with one less bedroom and one less person to share with (have I brought a tear to any ones eye yet) I'll do a virtual tour of the place when I move in. At least the new place has a garage, which needs quite a bit of work to make habitable!
I've been very happily bumbling around in the micra for the past few months. It hasn't missed a beat (apart from a miss-fire on cylinder 3 which lasted about an hour then fixed itself - marvellous) and I've had nothing really to report on it.
With the MOT coming up on the micra on 28th of August I thought it best to inspect the front cross member and protect it for the coming winter. I wasn't sure what I was going to find but - I found some stuff I hadn't had the front bumper off before so there was a lot of faffing and uncertainty before figuring out that it's actually very easy, I'll be about 2 hours quicker doing it next time
car up on the ramps. The forecast said rain so I tucked the nose into the garage just in case
So off came the bumper eventually, I thought I may have to remove the headlights so removed the off side then figured out I didn't really need to
at first glance, through squinted eyes with my hand over my face it didn't look too bad, I started to poke and prod and things quickly went from "ahh not too bad then.."
to "fk..."
Well I was in there at that point and thought I've started so I'll finish. My hope was to clear the cross member up and make it look semi-presentable so a friendly MOT tester will think at a glance that it's not too bad in there. Long term I'm really not sure what to do as it's largely uneconomical to repair at garage rates.
So I rubbed it all down, got the worst of the rust off and coated with hammer finish hammerite
All rusty areas around the back of the cross member have been covered and looking over it now shows it to be all nice and tidy. Who knows maybe when I move to my new place I'll invest in a welder and some Youtube lessons. I'll post the outcome of the MOT in a few weeks!
As I was in a potching mood I turned my attention toward the other halfs (while she still is) mx5 as there's been a lot of sloshing noises coming from the near side sill. I stuck a small flat head screw driver in the drain hole and was satisfied to see quite the torrent of water pour out. A quick job that should now help the thing last maybe a few more years before it turns to a rusty dust pile
Jacked up to make sure all the water was out of the sills leaving via the front drain holes and also checked/cleared/drained the hood drain tubes
As an aside to this aside, a few weeks ago I hosted this fella (stripy polo shirt)
while he was on holiday travelling through Europe. We had quite the weekend based around Welsh car culture and he got to see Caerphilly Castle which apparently was quite the experience to someone who's native country has nothing over 200 years old in it. I don't expect anyone to know who he is but 9,437 internet points if you can identify him.
More to come in a few weeks I guess..
years and years of threads on quite a few cars dead; if anyone ever did want to read through them. Rubbish.Well, this may as well be post 1 of this thread as it will be pictures from here only. I've signed up to Flickr so lets see if they can keep 3rd party hosting simple.
Due to a change in my personal circumstances and an imminent house move I haven't really had the inclination to do/post much for the last few months. I'll be in a new house soon with one less bedroom and one less person to share with (have I brought a tear to any ones eye yet
) I'll do a virtual tour of the place when I move in. At least the new place has a garage, which needs quite a bit of work to make habitable!I've been very happily bumbling around in the micra for the past few months. It hasn't missed a beat (apart from a miss-fire on cylinder 3 which lasted about an hour then fixed itself - marvellous) and I've had nothing really to report on it.
With the MOT coming up on the micra on 28th of August I thought it best to inspect the front cross member and protect it for the coming winter. I wasn't sure what I was going to find but - I found some stuff
I hadn't had the front bumper off before so there was a lot of faffing and uncertainty before figuring out that it's actually very easy, I'll be about 2 hours quicker doing it next time car up on the ramps. The forecast said rain so I tucked the nose into the garage just in case
So off came the bumper eventually, I thought I may have to remove the headlights so removed the off side then figured out I didn't really need to
at first glance, through squinted eyes with my hand over my face it didn't look too bad, I started to poke and prod and things quickly went from "ahh not too bad then.."
to "f
k..."Well I was in there at that point and thought I've started so I'll finish. My hope was to clear the cross member up and make it look semi-presentable so a friendly MOT tester will think at a glance that it's not too bad in there. Long term I'm really not sure what to do as it's largely uneconomical to repair at garage rates.
So I rubbed it all down, got the worst of the rust off and coated with hammer finish hammerite
All rusty areas around the back of the cross member have been covered and looking over it now shows it to be all nice and tidy. Who knows maybe when I move to my new place I'll invest in a welder and some Youtube lessons. I'll post the outcome of the MOT in a few weeks!
As I was in a potching mood I turned my attention toward the other halfs (while she still is) mx5 as there's been a lot of sloshing noises coming from the near side sill. I stuck a small flat head screw driver in the drain hole and was satisfied to see quite the torrent of water pour out. A quick job that should now help the thing last maybe a few more years before it turns to a rusty dust pile
Jacked up to make sure all the water was out of the sills leaving via the front drain holes and also checked/cleared/drained the hood drain tubes
As an aside to this aside, a few weeks ago I hosted this fella (stripy polo shirt)
while he was on holiday travelling through Europe. We had quite the weekend based around Welsh car culture and he got to see Caerphilly Castle which apparently was quite the experience to someone who's native country has nothing over 200 years old in it. I don't expect anyone to know who he is but 9,437 internet points if you can identify him.
More to come in a few weeks I guess..
https://www.gumtree.com/p/nissan/nissan-micra-k11-...
Is that allowed?
The rear tyres are likely to explode at any point, other than that shes good to go.
Is that allowed?
The rear tyres are likely to explode at any point, other than that shes good to go.
Loved my 1.3 SLX K11
75bhp twin cam 16v & no weight meant it was really quite nippy.
Quicker than the quoted 10.5 0-60 times. Used to skin the local boy racers in their XR2/3i’s
The 7k Rev limiter always seemed a bit premature too- have since learnt you could simply tape up the phonic wheel holes in the rotor arm to ‘cure’ that
Lots of happy miles in mine 👍🏻
75bhp twin cam 16v & no weight meant it was really quite nippy.
Quicker than the quoted 10.5 0-60 times. Used to skin the local boy racers in their XR2/3i’s
The 7k Rev limiter always seemed a bit premature too- have since learnt you could simply tape up the phonic wheel holes in the rotor arm to ‘cure’ that
Lots of happy miles in mine 👍🏻
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