Mazda MX6 2.5 V6 manual
Discussion
That's good to know, I will be tackling it in due course. I had noticed that there are a lot of vacuum hoses running around on this engine, connecting to the rear cam cover, intake manifold and assorted other gubbins. It seems quite a complex engine design for one that's over 25 years old and doesn't really make that much power by modern standards. Changing the clutch will be a bit involved but hopefully not too bad...
I know everyone dislikes the Probe but I actually quite like it's retro '90's looks now, complete with the pop-up lights. Saying that, a friend had a 2.0L one back in the day, it drove like s
t. Gutless engine, boat like suspension... A modified V6 one could be a fun and very cheap motor though.
Just a minor update, I've not had much time to work on the MX6, my 159 daily driver needed some attention. Anyhow, I've finished sorting the battery cables out now as they were quite messy and corroded, replaced them with new ones.
The car is looking fairly tidy now, I like the new front plate. I put the rear spoiler back on for now as I didn't want to leave the holes in the boot exposed, it was interesting to see how it looked without it. I've ordered my lowering springs now, really looking forward to getting those on. I went for Kilen -35mm Sport springs, they were the cheapest on ebay at £106. I'd not heard of the brand before but they are an established manufacturer of OE springs, they are designed and made in Sweden.
I know everyone dislikes the Probe but I actually quite like it's retro '90's looks now, complete with the pop-up lights. Saying that, a friend had a 2.0L one back in the day, it drove like s
t. Gutless engine, boat like suspension... A modified V6 one could be a fun and very cheap motor though.Just a minor update, I've not had much time to work on the MX6, my 159 daily driver needed some attention. Anyhow, I've finished sorting the battery cables out now as they were quite messy and corroded, replaced them with new ones.
The car is looking fairly tidy now, I like the new front plate. I put the rear spoiler back on for now as I didn't want to leave the holes in the boot exposed, it was interesting to see how it looked without it. I've ordered my lowering springs now, really looking forward to getting those on. I went for Kilen -35mm Sport springs, they were the cheapest on ebay at £106. I'd not heard of the brand before but they are an established manufacturer of OE springs, they are designed and made in Sweden.
So my new lowering springs have turned up now, exciting. I've been wanting to fit some since I bought the car, I sold a few old car parts I had in the garage again to fund the purchase, £105.20 from ebay. These are -35mm Sport Springs designed and made in Sweden by a manufacturer called Kilen. I'd not heard of them before but they are a large manufacturer of OE springs and have been going for 150 years apparently, according to their website.
I'm really looking forward to getting these beauties slipped in though it will have to wait for a little while due to other priorities taking priority, I'm fitting a new kitchen in my house this week...
I'm really looking forward to getting these beauties slipped in though it will have to wait for a little while due to other priorities taking priority, I'm fitting a new kitchen in my house this week...
I've not had much time to work on the MX6 lately, I've been fitting a new kitchen, so haven't slipped in the lowering springs as yet. As the car seemed to run and drive okay I decided to cross my fingers and book it in for an MOT. It failed on a few items. The most serious fail was on emissions, it passed the CO2 and hydro-carbon tests but failed on the lambda. The other fails were fairly innocuous, the battery isn't properly secure and two of the tyres are rotating the wrong way, which I didn't even know was an MOT fail to be honest.
To resolve the lambda emissions issue I'm thinking that I could need a new lambda sensor but will try and rule out a couple of other things first. My VAF repair job has failed, the glued parts have started to separate so this could well have messed up the fueling. It had been hanging together fine but the garage were obviously trying to get the car hot to pass the emssions and the heat in the engine bay had started to melt the glue. So I've given up with the attempted repair and have bought a decent used VAF to fit, £25. I'm also planning to put some new plugs in just to rule this out as a potential problem area. As for the other fails, I need to get a strap for the battery and swap two of the wheels over.
On the advisory front, I'll be working through those in due course. The rear coil springs are corroded but I'll be replacing those with the new lowering springs anyway. The front constant velocity joint gaitors and rear trailing arm bushes are deteriorated so will replace those, plus there's a chip in the windscreen which I'm not going to worry about.
To resolve the lambda emissions issue I'm thinking that I could need a new lambda sensor but will try and rule out a couple of other things first. My VAF repair job has failed, the glued parts have started to separate so this could well have messed up the fueling. It had been hanging together fine but the garage were obviously trying to get the car hot to pass the emssions and the heat in the engine bay had started to melt the glue. So I've given up with the attempted repair and have bought a decent used VAF to fit, £25. I'm also planning to put some new plugs in just to rule this out as a potential problem area. As for the other fails, I need to get a strap for the battery and swap two of the wheels over.
On the advisory front, I'll be working through those in due course. The rear coil springs are corroded but I'll be replacing those with the new lowering springs anyway. The front constant velocity joint gaitors and rear trailing arm bushes are deteriorated so will replace those, plus there's a chip in the windscreen which I'm not going to worry about.
Edited by mx-6 on Thursday 4th May 13:36
I fitted another VAF, I sourced a used one £25. I was convinced that the MOT emissions fail was a result of a vacuum leak on the intake caused by the VAF airflow meter starting to separate and allowing in unmetered air, so was hoping this will sort things out for the MOT retest. The KL-DE runs significantly better with the new VAF, the best it has since I've owned the car, rev's cleanly and has a very smooth idle now.
I got hold of a used drivers footwell fuse box cover so got that in, the interior is complete now. The remaining fault is that there is no power to the clock, 12V socket and overhead interior lights so that still need investigation...
Having had the MOT retest the '6 still failed on the lambda emissions reading, so there's work still to do there. I'm thinking that I will fit a new lambda sensor and change the plugs too, fingers crossed that will sort things out.
I got hold of a used drivers footwell fuse box cover so got that in, the interior is complete now. The remaining fault is that there is no power to the clock, 12V socket and overhead interior lights so that still need investigation...
Having had the MOT retest the '6 still failed on the lambda emissions reading, so there's work still to do there. I'm thinking that I will fit a new lambda sensor and change the plugs too, fingers crossed that will sort things out.
Edited by mx-6 on Tuesday 9th May 12:17
So I thought I'd kick this thread off again... Now that it feels like winter is upon us it's time to reprise the MX-6 project and get the car in for garage season as it were. I'd been using the garage for various car and DIY projects recently but it was time to have a good clean, tidy and clear out so I could get the '6 in for some repair, refurb and modification work over the coming cold months.
I've altered the shelf arrangements, put up a drawer cabinet for assorted fixings (£22), fitted a bench vice (£19.99), plus got a used tool box (£29.50) amongst other things.
There are quite a lot of jobs I plan to do on the car over the winter, I've been putting together a few parts I need plus more will be coming in soon...
I've altered the shelf arrangements, put up a drawer cabinet for assorted fixings (£22), fitted a bench vice (£19.99), plus got a used tool box (£29.50) amongst other things.
There are quite a lot of jobs I plan to do on the car over the winter, I've been putting together a few parts I need plus more will be coming in soon...
I've got plenty of mechanical stuff to fix so naturally I got things started by fitting my go-faster aftermarket steering wheel, a used black leather Italian made effort by Selm. At £33 I thought it a better bet than a brand new plastic chinese item...
It was an easy fit, I'd bought an adapter boss for the MX6 column spline. Just had to buzz out the horn signal line and wire it up.
I quite like the interior with the dark grey leather seats, but the blobby plastic shopping car wheel was letting the side down
It was an easy fit, I'd bought an adapter boss for the MX6 column spline. Just had to buzz out the horn signal line and wire it up.
I quite like the interior with the dark grey leather seats, but the blobby plastic shopping car wheel was letting the side down
.It's been slow progress on this due to other projects, but digging into it at more now.
Here's now she was just before being put on stands for some light resto...
...there's been a few small bits and bobs fitted including clear indicator lens and fresh wipers...
...plus I started deleting off the non-working AC (the condenser was already missing from the car when I got it).
Here's now she was just before being put on stands for some light resto...
...there's been a few small bits and bobs fitted including clear indicator lens and fresh wipers...
...plus I started deleting off the non-working AC (the condenser was already missing from the car when I got it).
Paul S4 said:
Good to see this thread again...! It's a very good read by the way.
You mentioned that you also have a 159: which one is it? As a fellow Alfisti I am curious !
I have a 2005 156 JTDM 150 ( remapped to about 190) that I have spent an inordinate amount of money on at Autolusso Penrith in the past year to 'rust proof ' the underside, new DMF/clutch, most of front and rear suspension renewed etc etc...
The 159 would be the logical replacement but I so like my 156 ! Especially with the remap !
Thanks Paul, nice to hear that someone is reading. You mentioned that you also have a 159: which one is it? As a fellow Alfisti I am curious !
I have a 2005 156 JTDM 150 ( remapped to about 190) that I have spent an inordinate amount of money on at Autolusso Penrith in the past year to 'rust proof ' the underside, new DMF/clutch, most of front and rear suspension renewed etc etc...
The 159 would be the logical replacement but I so like my 156 ! Especially with the remap !
Yes I'm into my Alfa's too, I've a 159 1.9 JTDm Lusso, same motor as yours I think, I've been tempted by a remap as well. It's my daily driver and is going well, on 166k now. I've done some work on it myself and had to have a bit done at the garage as well.
The last thing it needed was new rear discs and pads. The bolts were a bit of pain to get out, this car never seems to be easy to work on.
I had a 156 2.0 TS previously a few years ago and really enjoyed it, to be honest it was a much better car to drive than the 159, which feels like a bit of a barge comparitively. It looks good though... I've feared needing a DMF/clutch for mine as I know it's an expensive job, I got the car with no history but I'm guessing it must have been done previously to get to this mileage with no problems...
Edited by MX6 on Sunday 4th March 11:26
Very nice on the teledials and similar colour to mine by the look of it (I've had loads of dark blue cars, guess that's a favourite...), my previous 156 was a pre-facelift in a charcoal colour. Good to hear you've put it to some proper use over the years.
I can't really remember what the deal is with the subframe issues, I know the one on mine looks quite nasty with corrosion now when I've been under it. Thought I could take it off and clean it up, though a replacement would be better. I've had some experience with subframe refurb's, did one on an XJ40 last time...
I can't really remember what the deal is with the subframe issues, I know the one on mine looks quite nasty with corrosion now when I've been under it. Thought I could take it off and clean it up, though a replacement would be better. I've had some experience with subframe refurb's, did one on an XJ40 last time...
Edited by Mycroft Ward on Friday 19th January 12:57
Paul S4 said:
Forgot to mention: I had my remap done at about 90,000 miles and the clutch/DMF was done at about 150,000. I got the 'bit of both' remap ie performance & economy so not to aggressive; it's about 190BHP now, and the mpg did not change at all: I get around 42mpg week in week out on a 70 mile motorway/A road commute to Gateshead. I actually test drove a 159 JTDM 1.9 and it did feel quite heavy and less agile( but then I was used to mine !)
That would be ideal for mine, the 150 horse feels a bit short in it. It might look into it if I hang onto the car.I know the 159 is a somewhat bigger and heavier car, the controls feel quite heavy too so that seems to add to the feel of weight. I'm not a big fan of the 'box, it's the flakey GM M32 six speed, has quite a stiff shift to it. I had to have the bearing in it replaced last year as it started to whine, found a guy advertising on ebay up north who did the lot for a cheap price. Clutch pedal is heavy on it too.
In other news, I'm looking at doing some engine mod's once I've progressed the resto stuff further. After a bit of research I found that a nice modification for the KL-DE V6 is a MAF conversion, from the standard VAF which is restrictive to airflow in the intake tract.
What's needed for this swap is an ECU, MAF and IAT sensor from a Xedos 9 2.5 V6, which has the same basic engine. The standard MX6 ECU goes into open loop fueling maps at part throttle due to the vane in the VAF being fully open, whereas the Xedos ECU and MAF will continuously monitor airflow to optimise fueling.
I've managed to aquire the ECU and MAF from a European seller for cheap on ebay, plus have bought a new IAT as they are a fiver.
In addition to this, I recently picked up a cheap ebay turbo, £83.99 shipped! It's a T3/T4 hybrid, rated for 375 brake so more than ample. Obviously there will be numerous supporting mod's required to get this running so I won't be throwing it on next week, I'm planning to keep picking up the other bits and pieces required as and when over the coming months.
I found this SARD additional injection holder, pulled from a parted out S13. It will mount a Denso injector and I'd probably weld the boss flange onto an intake elbow. I'd like to go down this extra injector route for the turbo fueling, though I'm thinking of using an FMU for starters to get things going...
What's needed for this swap is an ECU, MAF and IAT sensor from a Xedos 9 2.5 V6, which has the same basic engine. The standard MX6 ECU goes into open loop fueling maps at part throttle due to the vane in the VAF being fully open, whereas the Xedos ECU and MAF will continuously monitor airflow to optimise fueling.
I've managed to aquire the ECU and MAF from a European seller for cheap on ebay, plus have bought a new IAT as they are a fiver.
In addition to this, I recently picked up a cheap ebay turbo, £83.99 shipped! It's a T3/T4 hybrid, rated for 375 brake so more than ample. Obviously there will be numerous supporting mod's required to get this running so I won't be throwing it on next week, I'm planning to keep picking up the other bits and pieces required as and when over the coming months.
I found this SARD additional injection holder, pulled from a parted out S13. It will mount a Denso injector and I'd probably weld the boss flange onto an intake elbow. I'd like to go down this extra injector route for the turbo fueling, though I'm thinking of using an FMU for starters to get things going...
Edited by Mycroft Ward on Tuesday 23 January 12:27
I used this guy, it was £270 when I had it done. Very cheap in the scheme of things, just look what some others are charging to fit you a recon 'box... He was a friendly guy, showed me the damaged bearing when it came out, plus there's even a decent pub over the road to wait in.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alfa-6-speed-Gearbox-re...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alfa-6-speed-Gearbox-re...
Yes I imagine there is a bit of a risk involved in running this as you say, there are a few horror stories out there. I've also seen guys on youtube and what have you use them successfully without issue.
I'm happy to take the risk on it as it's going on a £400 car/toy and will be run on low boost, probably 5 psi for starters. It's a Toyosports item and supposedly rated for 27psi...
I'm happy to take the risk on it as it's going on a £400 car/toy and will be run on low boost, probably 5 psi for starters. It's a Toyosports item and supposedly rated for 27psi...
I've finished getting the strut assemblies rebuilt, here's one looking black and shiny.
I was keen to have a look at the ride height so I chucked them back in the car and popped the wheels back on, I think it's pretty much settled at this height. Another reason for refitting the wheels and knocking out the centers is that I need to crack the nuts securing the front drive shafts, I'm going to replace all the CV boots soon. One has completely split and is throwing grease everywhere and the others look knackered too.
I took the '6 out for a spin and am pleased with how the front end feels. The ride is more compliant than I thought it would be, maybe there is a slight increase in spring rate but it doesn't feel like a big change, which is good. Having fairly chunky tyres obviously helps it ride well plus I prefer the look to low profiles. Potholes are a bit more noticeable but it didn't feel like I hit a bump stop with it so it seems like there is sufficient travel.
I was keen to have a look at the ride height so I chucked them back in the car and popped the wheels back on, I think it's pretty much settled at this height. Another reason for refitting the wheels and knocking out the centers is that I need to crack the nuts securing the front drive shafts, I'm going to replace all the CV boots soon. One has completely split and is throwing grease everywhere and the others look knackered too.
I took the '6 out for a spin and am pleased with how the front end feels. The ride is more compliant than I thought it would be, maybe there is a slight increase in spring rate but it doesn't feel like a big change, which is good. Having fairly chunky tyres obviously helps it ride well plus I prefer the look to low profiles. Potholes are a bit more noticeable but it didn't feel like I hit a bump stop with it so it seems like there is sufficient travel.
Edited by MX6 on Monday 5th February 12:45
...some more cheap ebay parts have turned up recently so I can get on with fixing some more broken stuff.
I've procured the cam cover gaskets (£13) that I need to sort out the unsightly oil leaks from the top of the motor.
I bought four stretch fit CV boots (£13.97) as one is split and has started throwing grease around the wheel arch and inside of the wheel rim, and the others look to be on their last legs.
I've also got a hold of a used bonnet release cable, from a Mazda 626 (£9.99) as the one on the car has worn through and is hanging on by a thread...
I've procured the cam cover gaskets (£13) that I need to sort out the unsightly oil leaks from the top of the motor.
I bought four stretch fit CV boots (£13.97) as one is split and has started throwing grease around the wheel arch and inside of the wheel rim, and the others look to be on their last legs.
I've also got a hold of a used bonnet release cable, from a Mazda 626 (£9.99) as the one on the car has worn through and is hanging on by a thread...
Edited by MX6 on Thursday 1st February 13:29
So I've got the rear springs in now, it was fairly striaght forward. The one thing that was a bit annoying is that on the off-side the bolts that secure the strut to the hub knuckle were fitted the wrong way around, such that the lower one wouldn't pass the caliper, which I had to remove so that the bolt could pass.
Access to the nuts securing the strut assembly in the towers wasn't great but not a problem really.
I'm pleased with the results, the ride is still decent and I feel that the car sits how a sporty road car should now.
The FD wheels are 1" wider than standard at 8", plus I'm running 5mm spacers for a bit more clearance to the struts and make the wheel fronts a more flush with the arches. I've seen MX6's that are lower with larger rim diameters but I'm satisfied with the 16's and a deeper tyre sidewall.
I think the height seems sensible, it's not properly low but it looks much better without the SUV ride height, feels about right to me.
Access to the nuts securing the strut assembly in the towers wasn't great but not a problem really.
I'm pleased with the results, the ride is still decent and I feel that the car sits how a sporty road car should now.
The FD wheels are 1" wider than standard at 8", plus I'm running 5mm spacers for a bit more clearance to the struts and make the wheel fronts a more flush with the arches. I've seen MX6's that are lower with larger rim diameters but I'm satisfied with the 16's and a deeper tyre sidewall.
I think the height seems sensible, it's not properly low but it looks much better without the SUV ride height, feels about right to me.
Edited by MX6 on Thursday 8th February 11:01
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