Discussion
Chris Stott said:
Mine packed up about 6 years ago... I keep saying 'I'll get it fixed when I get my bonus'. Then my bonus comes in October, the weather is cooler by then so I say 'I'll do it next year'. It's a circular reference 
As I've found out... there aren't that many days when you really need it.
Have you removed the aircon rads? Was wondering today if I'd bother getting mine fixed if it broke or just have the rads removed to improve engine cooling.As I've found out... there aren't that many days when you really need it.
LordHaveMurci said:
Have you removed the aircon rads? Was wondering today if I'd bother getting mine fixed if it broke or just have the rads removed to improve engine cooling.
No. Will need to get the AC fixed at some stage - either for myself, or if I ever decide to sell it... and it's more expense to get them removed.Fast Bug said:
Mine isn't very cold, it's had new condensers, so I think one of the pipes may need replacing. Might chuck it in to a KwikFit type place as I'm sure they do fault finding for peanuts
My experience with KF... they tested for leaks and recharged my system. AC worked briefly, but then packed up again. When I took it back they gave me contact details for a AC specialist... he came, AC worked perfectly. A week later it packed up again. I don't think they can do much more than tell you if you have a leak, and recharge the system.
ATM said:
First time in a while tonight - no ticking noise. Engine got quite hot - not sure if it's related.
What sort of ticking noise do you have?Mine has a 'tick' for about 10s when I 1st start it (from cold)... nothing major, just a quiet tick until the oil pressure builds... goes away if I give it a couple of quick blips to 3k... I assume mine is a tappet, but I'll ask my Indy to confirm when it's next in.
Mines also started to get hot again when in traffic (fixed last time with a new OS fan regulator). Doesn't go above 90ish, but still will need attention. I noticed the engine compartment extractor fan isn't cutting in, so it's most probably that, and it needs a fuse or regulator.
Chris Stott said:
What sort of ticking noise do you have?
Mine has a 'tick' for about 10s when I 1st start it (from cold)... nothing major, just a quiet tick until the oil pressure builds... goes away if I give it a couple of quick blips to 3k... I assume mine is a tappet, but I'll ask my Indy to confirm when it's next in.
Yeah, they all do that sir - mine has the typical IMS chain clatter for half a second from cold start, followed by the gentle rattle of a few hydraulic lifters for a minute or two unless you gently rev the engine to 1200-1500 or so, when it then shuts up. Strangely, more lifters rattle with the Millers nano oil than it did with 5w40 Mobil 1 - suspect the greater viscosity when cold is a factor here.Mine has a 'tick' for about 10s when I 1st start it (from cold)... nothing major, just a quiet tick until the oil pressure builds... goes away if I give it a couple of quick blips to 3k... I assume mine is a tappet, but I'll ask my Indy to confirm when it's next in.
They're never going to be the absolute quietest engine mechanically, there's a lot of chains driving the cams, especially on an early 5 chain motor with the 'noisy' roller IMS chain.
bgunn said:
Chris Stott said:
What sort of ticking noise do you have?
Mine has a 'tick' for about 10s when I 1st start it (from cold)... nothing major, just a quiet tick until the oil pressure builds... goes away if I give it a couple of quick blips to 3k... I assume mine is a tappet, but I'll ask my Indy to confirm when it's next in.
Yeah, they all do that sir - mine has the typical IMS chain clatter for half a second from cold start, followed by the gentle rattle of a few hydraulic lifters for a minute or two unless you gently rev the engine to 1200-1500 or so, when it then shuts up. Strangely, more lifters rattle with the Millers nano oil than it did with 5w40 Mobil 1 - suspect the greater viscosity when cold is a factor here.Mine has a 'tick' for about 10s when I 1st start it (from cold)... nothing major, just a quiet tick until the oil pressure builds... goes away if I give it a couple of quick blips to 3k... I assume mine is a tappet, but I'll ask my Indy to confirm when it's next in.
They're never going to be the absolute quietest engine mechanically, there's a lot of chains driving the cams, especially on an early 5 chain motor with the 'noisy' roller IMS chain.
The ticking when it occurs is audible for the duration of the drive. So even if I go for a country lane fun time blast the ticking is there. Its not detectable at higher rpm but as I slow down it is audible at lower revs say 1200 - 1500. So it doesn't clear as such as the engine warms up and the oil gets around. Like I say some days it does not happen and some days it does.
What I am doing now is driving with higher rpm so keeping the car in lower gears. So previously I would use 4th at around 30mph and this meant the revs were low-ish. Now I leave it in 3rd. The engine is revving slightly more but its not crazy. Anyway the upshot is the last 3 or 4 times I have used the car in this way there has been no ticking. I'm beginning to think that if I can kept the oil pumping round in this way on the previous drive then the next drive will be ticking free.
So in summary revving the engine more on the previous drive seems to sort it for the next. I've even started revving the engine some before I switch it off. Not very scientific I know but I think more oil pressure is what I need.
I'm also wandering if the parking angle might affect it. Some of the parking spots I use are at an incline and some are flatter.
So I have clutch pedal problems again. Today I got in the car after not using it for 5 or 6 days. I left the car in gear and handbrake on as usual. I found the clutch pedal on the floor. I had to pull it up with my hand. It feels ok to operate but maybe a little bit sticky as if it wants to stay down. Any ideas?
Lovely car.
Few things:
1) Bit of mayo in the filler is fine, they all do it. The extended filler hose is cooler and you get condenstaion here. On cars used through the winter you see loads.
2) Coolant should be red stuff, not blue...!?
3) Wheel weights are here: http://www.944racing.de/felgengewichte.php
For lightweight 17's you want the standard multispokes from a 996.2
Lightweight 18s you want 996.2 5 spokes.
4) Suspension - sounds like you want to swap those dampers out, get Bilstein B6 for around a grand for a cars worth. Should be able to punt the KW on.
5) These have so much grip its not socially acceptable to try and drift even a little on the road. I had a 350z once that wouldn't go in a straight line. I likened that to a sledge hammer, and the 996 to a scalpel.
Few things:
1) Bit of mayo in the filler is fine, they all do it. The extended filler hose is cooler and you get condenstaion here. On cars used through the winter you see loads.
2) Coolant should be red stuff, not blue...!?
3) Wheel weights are here: http://www.944racing.de/felgengewichte.php
For lightweight 17's you want the standard multispokes from a 996.2
Lightweight 18s you want 996.2 5 spokes.
4) Suspension - sounds like you want to swap those dampers out, get Bilstein B6 for around a grand for a cars worth. Should be able to punt the KW on.
5) These have so much grip its not socially acceptable to try and drift even a little on the road. I had a 350z once that wouldn't go in a straight line. I likened that to a sledge hammer, and the 996 to a scalpel.
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