2004 e46 BMW 330i Sport Touring 6 speed
Discussion
Picked up a 6 speed 330i to replace my 2011 e91 318D (some would say an odd way of doing things)
Thankfully had more luck than you so far....Had mine a few months now and all it's required is topping up the washer bottle.
Can vouch for them being rare, this is the first I spotted for sale in 4 months.
Drives much nicer then the 318D in my opinion.
Thankfully had more luck than you so far....Had mine a few months now and all it's required is topping up the washer bottle.
Can vouch for them being rare, this is the first I spotted for sale in 4 months.
Drives much nicer then the 318D in my opinion.
Nice car, going to do a thread?
Drawing a blank on a new hinge so far, 3 on ebay, all passenger side, contacted 3 other people breaking cars in similar colours, one hasn't replied, one is the passenger side only available, and the other has sold both! Contacted 3 breakers - local chap usually quite quick hasn't got back to me, and messages with FAB and Quarry. At this stage any colour will do and I'll get a rattle can of mystic blue! (it will annoy me if I have a red or silver hinge!)
In the meantime I have parked up the car - maybe a bit over cautious but I don't want to strain the other hinge or lose the back window on the motorway...
Anybody know important the special BMW brake lube is? realoem is most insistent (part no 83192158851) but will normal copper grease be OK on back of pads and slider pins? Oh, and does the spring clip need replacing or good to reuse a few times?
Drawing a blank on a new hinge so far, 3 on ebay, all passenger side, contacted 3 other people breaking cars in similar colours, one hasn't replied, one is the passenger side only available, and the other has sold both! Contacted 3 breakers - local chap usually quite quick hasn't got back to me, and messages with FAB and Quarry. At this stage any colour will do and I'll get a rattle can of mystic blue! (it will annoy me if I have a red or silver hinge!)
In the meantime I have parked up the car - maybe a bit over cautious but I don't want to strain the other hinge or lose the back window on the motorway...
Anybody know important the special BMW brake lube is? realoem is most insistent (part no 83192158851) but will normal copper grease be OK on back of pads and slider pins? Oh, and does the spring clip need replacing or good to reuse a few times?
Part no for Plastilube (BMW pad grease) is 83192158851. Just buy some Ceratec from eBay, it's the same stuff. Pad spring is in theory supposed to be changed if it is more than 48 months old, I tend to see how they feel. I found the best place to buy them is eBay, for ATE ones.
I still have a set of value line gen front pads and sensor for sale if you're interested. Re the boot hinge, my old tailgate has a good pair of hinges and is currently sitting back at my local breakers. If you are desperate for a hinge I can see if he will sell just the hinge. (He wanted my old tailgate back to keep the scrap car dry),
I still have a set of value line gen front pads and sensor for sale if you're interested. Re the boot hinge, my old tailgate has a good pair of hinges and is currently sitting back at my local breakers. If you are desperate for a hinge I can see if he will sell just the hinge. (He wanted my old tailgate back to keep the scrap car dry),
NiceCupOfTea said:
Nice car, going to do a thread?
Drawing a blank on a new hinge so far, 3 on ebay, all passenger side, contacted 3 other people breaking cars in similar colours, one hasn't replied, one is the passenger side only available, and the other has sold both! Contacted 3 breakers - local chap usually quite quick hasn't got back to me, and messages with FAB and Quarry. At this stage any colour will do and I'll get a rattle can of mystic blue! (it will annoy me if I have a red or silver hinge!)
In the meantime I have parked up the car - maybe a bit over cautious but I don't want to strain the other hinge or lose the back window on the motorway...
Anybody know important the special BMW brake lube is? realoem is most insistent (part no 83192158851) but will normal copper grease be OK on back of pads and slider pins? Oh, and does the spring clip need replacing or good to reuse a few times?
Whatever you do, don't put the copper grease on the slider pins. I've just deseized a second set of pins within a year the other week in a Saab 9-3 'vert that I use from time to time ; it's my sister's. There was evidence of copper on the bloody things. Why people do this God knows! Sure it's fine when it's first put on but it always seizes the pins IME ; I did it a couple of times before.Drawing a blank on a new hinge so far, 3 on ebay, all passenger side, contacted 3 other people breaking cars in similar colours, one hasn't replied, one is the passenger side only available, and the other has sold both! Contacted 3 breakers - local chap usually quite quick hasn't got back to me, and messages with FAB and Quarry. At this stage any colour will do and I'll get a rattle can of mystic blue! (it will annoy me if I have a red or silver hinge!)
In the meantime I have parked up the car - maybe a bit over cautious but I don't want to strain the other hinge or lose the back window on the motorway...
Anybody know important the special BMW brake lube is? realoem is most insistent (part no 83192158851) but will normal copper grease be OK on back of pads and slider pins? Oh, and does the spring clip need replacing or good to reuse a few times?
The worst thing? 2 years ago the rear pads were changed by a Saab specialist for genuine items. 14k later and they are half worn. I only noticed as the handbrake was not all that, the pedal for me could have been firmer when I bought it and the disc eventually starting blueing on the edges.
It's not a one off occurance for me either:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Anyway, rant over
. Ceratec/Plastlube will be fine for the pads along with the same or red rubber grease for the sliders.It's looking pretty good i must say is the car. I did consider getting one of these but the lure of M3s had me go towards them with a hater's feature oddly sparking my interest
.Beginning to wish I'd just left the rear glass hinge as was - it might not have stayed up but at least nothing was knackered...
I have unbolted the broken hinge but can't see any way of getting it out in situ so I think I will have to remove the other hinge (and so the whole tailgate). Probably put untold levels of stress on the other hinge as well (and lifting it at was what clearly an angle has taken a chunk out of the spoiler on the roof rails
)
Any advice on removing the tailgate? Worth taking out the glass first? Am I going to be able to lower it safely on my own, and, more to the point, what are the chances of me being able to lift it back into place on my own
I think I know the answer...
I have unbolted the broken hinge but can't see any way of getting it out in situ so I think I will have to remove the other hinge (and so the whole tailgate). Probably put untold levels of stress on the other hinge as well (and lifting it at was what clearly an angle has taken a chunk out of the spoiler on the roof rails
)Any advice on removing the tailgate? Worth taking out the glass first? Am I going to be able to lower it safely on my own, and, more to the point, what are the chances of me being able to lift it back into place on my own
I think I know the answer...You're in the right place! Having just changed my complete tailgate I have the answers. You can remove the complete tailgate as one by unbolting the 13mm nuts under the headlining.
Sadly all the wiring will be still attached so the tailgate won't go far!
If you want to remove the whole lot as one you can, but you'll have to remove all the wiring (there's a lot). I did lift the whole tailgate on and off as one on my own. It wasn't easy but I am a "powerfully built company director". That's a joke, in reality I am rather tall and stronger than most. It would be much easier and safer with two people.
You could as you suggest remove the glass separately to make it easy. I think with care you could maybe leave the whole tailgate on and swop the hinge (definite assistant required).
If you need any glass shims I've just put one on eBay. At least your gearbox works!
Sadly all the wiring will be still attached so the tailgate won't go far!
If you want to remove the whole lot as one you can, but you'll have to remove all the wiring (there's a lot). I did lift the whole tailgate on and off as one on my own. It wasn't easy but I am a "powerfully built company director". That's a joke, in reality I am rather tall and stronger than most. It would be much easier and safer with two people.
You could as you suggest remove the glass separately to make it easy. I think with care you could maybe leave the whole tailgate on and swop the hinge (definite assistant required).
If you need any glass shims I've just put one on eBay. At least your gearbox works!
Having removed the spoiler it's much easier to get the main hinge out once unbolted by opening the glass tailgate - wish I'd realised before as it would have avoided damaging the spoiler. Ironically I had deliberately left the spoiler attached as when I removed it before to replace the glass hinge it got scratched sliding around. Hopefully a spot of filler and a touch up pen will get it looking OK, it's on the leading edge so not too obvious.
About to fit the replacement hinge which looks to be in reasonable condition but possibly with a tiny spot of surface rust in the hinge itself, but it is really quite stiff to use in comparison to the one that has come off the car... I have soaked with penetrating fluid and will leave for a couple of hours, but is this likely to lead to premature failure? I know people have complained about stiff hinges failing - is this the tailgate or the glass?
About to fit the replacement hinge which looks to be in reasonable condition but possibly with a tiny spot of surface rust in the hinge itself, but it is really quite stiff to use in comparison to the one that has come off the car... I have soaked with penetrating fluid and will leave for a couple of hours, but is this likely to lead to premature failure? I know people have complained about stiff hinges failing - is this the tailgate or the glass?
All back together and working fine - lets hope this fix lasts longer than the last one!
Hinge loosened up after being soaked in WD40 and fiddled with for 10 mins.
For anybody interested in the future, here's how I'd do it next time (easy to do on your own and probably only takes an hour or so)
Hinge loosened up after being soaked in WD40 and fiddled with for 10 mins.
For anybody interested in the future, here's how I'd do it next time (easy to do on your own and probably only takes an hour or so)
tailgate hinge replacement said:
Care has to be exercised throughout as the tailgate is only supported on one side and you don't want to stress the working hinge. I think the first thing to do is to remove the spoiler - 4 10mm bolts under the glass trim panel at the top. Disconnect the brake light cable from under the membrane on the glass, and pull the washer hose off. The other wire is long enough to rest the spoiler on the roof.
Next, detach the strut on whichever side you want to remove the hinge. I didn't do this, and as soon as I removed the hinge it pushed the tailgate out of true stressing the hinge. There is a metal retaining clip which you can prise off with a flat head. Next job is crack off the nuts under the headlining (might want to do this before the strut TBH. Bit awkward to get to but a 13mm ratchet spanner will do the job. You can try to remove the C-pillar trim but it didn't help me much.
Then remove the hinge bolts (torx) from the tailgate (under some plastic trim that is held on with trim clips). Get somebody to help lift the tailgate and try to keep it level - spin off the nuts under the headlining, and close the tailgate carefully.
You should now be able to lift the tailgate glass and wiggle out the hinge (this was the stage that I realised removing the spoiler would make this possible - unfortunately, the shifting angle of the tailgate meant that I damaged it on a roof rail. Should have removed it at the start!) NB. glass window hinge needs to be detached from the main hinge bracket, but doesn't need to be removed.
It all went back together very easily - lining it up isn't too bad either. Drop the new hinge in and do up the torx bits on the tailgate. Open the tailgate and put the nuts on the hinge bolts inside the headlining. Shut tailgate, slacken up tailgate torx bolts and let it find its natural position. Then nip them up again (checking it latches and opens OK and looks fairly even) and torque up the nuts in the headlining. Put the strut back on (you need to remove it at both ends to get the tailgate to close ok and line it all up). Then glass window works in the same way - just let it find its natural position and then nip up bolts. Refit spoiler, open beer
In other news, alarm has gone off a few times. Assumed that I had disturbed a boot switch, but realised battery was fairly flat after a few days of sitting so hoping that is why. Actually killed it when fiddling the OBD port and the battery went flat. Alarmingly then got a TCS/ABS light that won't go out - hope this is due to the battery too, the code reader said the fault code was the ASC/DSC switch!! But wouldn't delete the code... Strange...Next, detach the strut on whichever side you want to remove the hinge. I didn't do this, and as soon as I removed the hinge it pushed the tailgate out of true stressing the hinge. There is a metal retaining clip which you can prise off with a flat head. Next job is crack off the nuts under the headlining (might want to do this before the strut TBH. Bit awkward to get to but a 13mm ratchet spanner will do the job. You can try to remove the C-pillar trim but it didn't help me much.
Then remove the hinge bolts (torx) from the tailgate (under some plastic trim that is held on with trim clips). Get somebody to help lift the tailgate and try to keep it level - spin off the nuts under the headlining, and close the tailgate carefully.
You should now be able to lift the tailgate glass and wiggle out the hinge (this was the stage that I realised removing the spoiler would make this possible - unfortunately, the shifting angle of the tailgate meant that I damaged it on a roof rail. Should have removed it at the start!) NB. glass window hinge needs to be detached from the main hinge bracket, but doesn't need to be removed.
It all went back together very easily - lining it up isn't too bad either. Drop the new hinge in and do up the torx bits on the tailgate. Open the tailgate and put the nuts on the hinge bolts inside the headlining. Shut tailgate, slacken up tailgate torx bolts and let it find its natural position. Then nip them up again (checking it latches and opens OK and looks fairly even) and torque up the nuts in the headlining. Put the strut back on (you need to remove it at both ends to get the tailgate to close ok and line it all up). Then glass window works in the same way - just let it find its natural position and then nip up bolts. Refit spoiler, open beer
Can't remember what happened with the traction light, didn't appear again! Tailgate still working fine, and disconnecting the bonnet alarm switch has prevented any more false positives.
I have been busy work so no time even to wash it, let along tinker (want to do the front brakes and the oil filter gasket as I am sick of the smell of hot oil!). It's been running great and just ticked over 150k miles (over 5000 since I bought in February.
All great until this morning. Started it up and sounded rough, clearly only running on 5. revved it a bit but no difference, last drive was yesterday and a reasonable run, no thrashing, no start stop, just a normal drive. Engine light on and even a quick drive up and down the road changed nothing, so dumped it and took the e36 to work.
Just got back and checked it again - still firing on 5, still the engine light. Tried a couple of code readers - generic U480 OBDII code reader gives me "P0302" which is just a cylinder 2 misfire. Plugged in my Creator C310 and when I poked it for engine codes (you have to interrogate the module rather than just read all codes) it gives me 2:
7B Activation, map cooling
EF Misfire, cylinder 2
the misfire code isn't terribly useful but I will pull off the plastics tomorrow afternoon when I have a bit of time and check the plug/coil pack/lead connections. Car had a full Inspection 2 a couple of months back. I have done a bit of googling on the map cooling code - seems to be something to do with an electronic thermostat, but could also be coolant temp sensor. However, apparently it rarely throws an engine light, so it maybe that it's been there for a few weeks and I only noticed it because I was looking for codes...
If I can sort the misfire I can maybe diagnose it by reading live temperature data, but the misfire is my priority at the moment. Without any further direction it's a bit difficult to know where to start though... I guess, engine cover off, check leads/plugs, and swap over a couple of the coil packs to diagnose...
I have been busy work so no time even to wash it, let along tinker (want to do the front brakes and the oil filter gasket as I am sick of the smell of hot oil!). It's been running great and just ticked over 150k miles (over 5000 since I bought in February.
All great until this morning. Started it up and sounded rough, clearly only running on 5. revved it a bit but no difference, last drive was yesterday and a reasonable run, no thrashing, no start stop, just a normal drive. Engine light on and even a quick drive up and down the road changed nothing, so dumped it and took the e36 to work.
Just got back and checked it again - still firing on 5, still the engine light. Tried a couple of code readers - generic U480 OBDII code reader gives me "P0302" which is just a cylinder 2 misfire. Plugged in my Creator C310 and when I poked it for engine codes (you have to interrogate the module rather than just read all codes) it gives me 2:
7B Activation, map cooling
EF Misfire, cylinder 2
the misfire code isn't terribly useful but I will pull off the plastics tomorrow afternoon when I have a bit of time and check the plug/coil pack/lead connections. Car had a full Inspection 2 a couple of months back. I have done a bit of googling on the map cooling code - seems to be something to do with an electronic thermostat, but could also be coolant temp sensor. However, apparently it rarely throws an engine light, so it maybe that it's been there for a few weeks and I only noticed it because I was looking for codes...
If I can sort the misfire I can maybe diagnose it by reading live temperature data, but the misfire is my priority at the moment. Without any further direction it's a bit difficult to know where to start though... I guess, engine cover off, check leads/plugs, and swap over a couple of the coil packs to diagnose...
NiceCupOfTea said:
OK, just back from its Inspection II and they seemed to think it was a decent enough car which is encouraging.
List of todos from them:
I know it's only a £3k car but I think I might as well get it done otherwise it will just get worse. Any thoughts on the other bits?
Mine's leaking (quite a bit) from here, so I would suggest that this is the main cause of your oil loss rather than a breather/CCV (if as you say it's not smoking). I'll be doing mine when I next whip the viscous fan* off to change the header tank, coupling, and fan shroud at the same time. The alternator also has to come off.List of todos from them:
- slight runout on front brake discs (so that would account for the judder and I will renew those and pads)
- diff output seals leaking x2
- trailing arm bushes perished
- small crack in subframe mounting point (20mm) (NNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
- slight leak from thermostat housing
- oil filter housing gasket leaking
I know it's only a £3k car but I think I might as well get it done otherwise it will just get worse. Any thoughts on the other bits?
- Note this is on a 530i
Just wondering if you are still looking for some wheels...noticed that from an earlier post in this thread.
I have a set of very nice OEM BMW Style 44 17inch alloys that I have had professionally refurbished by The Wheel Specialist; these were on my mint E36 318iS for a short time, but I have since sold the car. New BMW OEM centre caps as well.These are currently on Gumtree for £165 if anyone is interested !
I have a set of very nice OEM BMW Style 44 17inch alloys that I have had professionally refurbished by The Wheel Specialist; these were on my mint E36 318iS for a short time, but I have since sold the car. New BMW OEM centre caps as well.These are currently on Gumtree for £165 if anyone is interested !
NiceCupOfTea said:
Can't remember what happened with the traction light, didn't appear again! Tailgate still working fine, and disconnecting the bonnet alarm switch has prevented any more false positives.
I have been busy work so no time even to wash it, let along tinker (want to do the front brakes and the oil filter gasket as I am sick of the smell of hot oil!). It's been running great and just ticked over 150k miles (over 5000 since I bought in February.
All great until this morning. Started it up and sounded rough, clearly only running on 5. revved it a bit but no difference, last drive was yesterday and a reasonable run, no thrashing, no start stop, just a normal drive. Engine light on and even a quick drive up and down the road changed nothing, so dumped it and took the e36 to work.
Just got back and checked it again - still firing on 5, still the engine light. Tried a couple of code readers - generic U480 OBDII code reader gives me "P0302" which is just a cylinder 2 misfire. Plugged in my Creator C310 and when I poked it for engine codes (you have to interrogate the module rather than just read all codes) it gives me 2:
7B Activation, map cooling
EF Misfire, cylinder 2
the misfire code isn't terribly useful but I will pull off the plastics tomorrow afternoon when I have a bit of time and check the plug/coil pack/lead connections. Car had a full Inspection 2 a couple of months back. I have done a bit of googling on the map cooling code - seems to be something to do with an electronic thermostat, but could also be coolant temp sensor. However, apparently it rarely throws an engine light, so it maybe that it's been there for a few weeks and I only noticed it because I was looking for codes...
If I can sort the misfire I can maybe diagnose it by reading live temperature data, but the misfire is my priority at the moment. Without any further direction it's a bit difficult to know where to start though... I guess, engine cover off, check leads/plugs, and swap over a couple of the coil packs to diagnose...
You seem to having a lot of problems on a car you paid strong money for, what's the mileage?I have been busy work so no time even to wash it, let along tinker (want to do the front brakes and the oil filter gasket as I am sick of the smell of hot oil!). It's been running great and just ticked over 150k miles (over 5000 since I bought in February.
All great until this morning. Started it up and sounded rough, clearly only running on 5. revved it a bit but no difference, last drive was yesterday and a reasonable run, no thrashing, no start stop, just a normal drive. Engine light on and even a quick drive up and down the road changed nothing, so dumped it and took the e36 to work.
Just got back and checked it again - still firing on 5, still the engine light. Tried a couple of code readers - generic U480 OBDII code reader gives me "P0302" which is just a cylinder 2 misfire. Plugged in my Creator C310 and when I poked it for engine codes (you have to interrogate the module rather than just read all codes) it gives me 2:
7B Activation, map cooling
EF Misfire, cylinder 2
the misfire code isn't terribly useful but I will pull off the plastics tomorrow afternoon when I have a bit of time and check the plug/coil pack/lead connections. Car had a full Inspection 2 a couple of months back. I have done a bit of googling on the map cooling code - seems to be something to do with an electronic thermostat, but could also be coolant temp sensor. However, apparently it rarely throws an engine light, so it maybe that it's been there for a few weeks and I only noticed it because I was looking for codes...
If I can sort the misfire I can maybe diagnose it by reading live temperature data, but the misfire is my priority at the moment. Without any further direction it's a bit difficult to know where to start though... I guess, engine cover off, check leads/plugs, and swap over a couple of the coil packs to diagnose...
Re your faults, you need a new thermostat. Best are gen. BMW. Mahle, Behr or Wahler are the best aftermarket. None of the aftermarket thermostats are quite as good as a gen. Don't go for for a budget thermostat such as Circoli.
With thermostats on BMWs the more you pay the longer it lasts. Misfire is usually a dead coil. Swop the cylinder 2 coil to another cylinder (no 1) and see if the misfire follows.
With thermostats on BMWs the more you pay the longer it lasts. Misfire is usually a dead coil. Swop the cylinder 2 coil to another cylinder (no 1) and see if the misfire follows.
Thanks helix. Where's the best place to get the coil? Don't want a pattern one of such a thing is available.
Can you change the stat without too much coolant loss on these?
(PS- 150k miles, yes I've had a few problems but easy come easy go. Not many manual 330 touring sports around to be picky with)
Can you change the stat without too much coolant loss on these?
(PS- 150k miles, yes I've had a few problems but easy come easy go. Not many manual 330 touring sports around to be picky with)
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