Pembleton mkII - Tin Tub
Discussion
LewG said:
Great work Niall, hope you are well. Did you see the Pembleton on Great British Car Journeys recently? Hammering up a hill on the way to the Isle of Skye I believe, was a good watch
I did not, I know all about it though, that was Tom in 'snotamog. He's a great guy and known to treat the accelerator as an on/off switch! He does some serious mileage in it, circa 15k miles a year I believe!
So the rest of the floor is now bonded and riveted in place with both heel recesses and all the spring blisters.
I've made the steering column hole massively oversize for good reason. Basically if I ever need to remove the steering rack it needs to be slid along its length by about an inch, then rotated about its axis before it can be removed. This means that the pinion needs clearance to do this, hence the huge hole for wiggle room/rotation. The hole was tight on Victoria and I had to get the old tin snips out and was a right ball ache.
I'll make a bolt on cover with a tighter hole to the column.
I also made the top of the footwell area that will form the platform for the handbrake and gear lever mechanism, as well as all the other electrical equipment and glovebox base.
I made a hatch in order to access the pedalbox, gear and throttle cables from above. Its a proper effort to change/mod these without this as I've learned with Victoria...
This is not fixed in place yet.
I've made the steering column hole massively oversize for good reason. Basically if I ever need to remove the steering rack it needs to be slid along its length by about an inch, then rotated about its axis before it can be removed. This means that the pinion needs clearance to do this, hence the huge hole for wiggle room/rotation. The hole was tight on Victoria and I had to get the old tin snips out and was a right ball ache.
I'll make a bolt on cover with a tighter hole to the column.
I also made the top of the footwell area that will form the platform for the handbrake and gear lever mechanism, as well as all the other electrical equipment and glovebox base.
I made a hatch in order to access the pedalbox, gear and throttle cables from above. Its a proper effort to change/mod these without this as I've learned with Victoria...
This is not fixed in place yet.
That's the one! He wasn't messing about that's for sure.
I'm afraid to say work has ground to a halt for a year or so now, I'm very aware I need to get back on with it but other projects and buying a house has unfortunately got in the way! I've been rebuilding many bits of the TVR recently, getting ready to sell. As with all these things they take far longer than expected, so I'm hoping I'll be able to pack some Stolly time in fairly soon once it's gone
I'm afraid to say work has ground to a halt for a year or so now, I'm very aware I need to get back on with it but other projects and buying a house has unfortunately got in the way! I've been rebuilding many bits of the TVR recently, getting ready to sell. As with all these things they take far longer than expected, so I'm hoping I'll be able to pack some Stolly time in fairly soon once it's gone
Cheers Lew,
I already have my next two projects lined up after this one!
Once the front bulkhead top is properly in place I'll be up to my knees in mechanical bits next. The rear is pretty much done, but I need to fit the gearbox, handbrake mechanism, gear change, front sus and steering arms etc. Then it'll be rolling. Once it's rolling I can then focus in seating and driver positioning.
I already have my next two projects lined up after this one!
Once the front bulkhead top is properly in place I'll be up to my knees in mechanical bits next. The rear is pretty much done, but I need to fit the gearbox, handbrake mechanism, gear change, front sus and steering arms etc. Then it'll be rolling. Once it's rolling I can then focus in seating and driver positioning.
For anyone interested I've just bitten the bullet and organised for a "long gearbox" to be built. I had one of these in my Lomax and despite what people say, you REALLY DO notice the difference.
This results in the below:
I'll do three comparisons.
Option 1:
Standard 2cv wheels/tyres
Standard 2cv gearbox
5k rpm
1st- 17.22mph
2nd- 33.72mph
3rd- 50.16mph
4th- 68.07mph
Option 2:
19" austin 7 wheels and tyres
Standard 2cv gearbox
5k rpm
1st- 18.25mph
2nd- 35.75mph
3rd- 53.18mph
4th- 72.17mph
Option 3:
19" austin 7 wheels and tyres
Long gearbox (made with 2cv gear set and Ami diff)
5k rpm
1st- 19.43mph
2nd- 38.05mph
3rd- 56.61mph
4th- 78.82mph
With 70mph @ 4560rpm in top gear
This results in the below:
I'll do three comparisons.
Option 1:
Standard 2cv wheels/tyres
Standard 2cv gearbox
5k rpm
1st- 17.22mph
2nd- 33.72mph
3rd- 50.16mph
4th- 68.07mph
Option 2:
19" austin 7 wheels and tyres
Standard 2cv gearbox
5k rpm
1st- 18.25mph
2nd- 35.75mph
3rd- 53.18mph
4th- 72.17mph
Option 3:
19" austin 7 wheels and tyres
Long gearbox (made with 2cv gear set and Ami diff)
5k rpm
1st- 19.43mph
2nd- 38.05mph
3rd- 56.61mph
4th- 78.82mph
With 70mph @ 4560rpm in top gear
Virtually every day there's something coming in the post. Todays delights include some double ended stubby cobalt drill bits (lets see how long these last).
Some fuel tank mounting washers, a new fuel sender (need to check compatibility with gauge)
And some M9 bolts... yes, M9 - thanks a bunch Citroen....
The 2cv is peppered with M7 and M9 fixings, which is a right pain in the arse. Brilliantly the M9 is a 1.25 pitch, the same as an M8, and you can screw an M8 all the way in, but it just feels a little slack, but you cant torque them up.
Still, at least its all metric, could be imperial... or worse, a nix of the two (did someone say M8 or 5/16ths?) What a joke that'd be...
Some fuel tank mounting washers, a new fuel sender (need to check compatibility with gauge)
And some M9 bolts... yes, M9 - thanks a bunch Citroen....
The 2cv is peppered with M7 and M9 fixings, which is a right pain in the arse. Brilliantly the M9 is a 1.25 pitch, the same as an M8, and you can screw an M8 all the way in, but it just feels a little slack, but you cant torque them up.
Still, at least its all metric, could be imperial... or worse, a nix of the two (did someone say M8 or 5/16ths?) What a joke that'd be...
Tonights progress - I'm out of the garage this weekend 
The springs sit in little cups in the chassis. The top half reacts against the chassis rail itself, and the lower part is on a separate bit of steel with a strip seam welded around the seam to create a cup. I'm not a huge fan of this arrangement as there will be uneven loads going into the different parts that form the reacting surface. In order to even out this pressure, I've made some large "washers" that the springs react against. These are bonded into the chassis and create a single flush surface that the force goes through. They are 4mm thick, 100mm OD and 40mm ID.
I also trial fitted the pedalbox - we have a clash between the accelerator and the chassis rail. I have another pedal somewhere, so hopefully that one is slightly different, otherwise I'll have to crank it over, which isn't ideal. Its a dual cable pull, so what I might do is remove one of the lugs and make it a single pull. Then go to a splitter nearer the carbs... as yet undecided.
I also fitted the fuel tank, but not the pick-up/sender. As luck would have it, there's a handy hatch that will allow me to fit that later.
I also fitted the front left hub and driveshaft and also trial fitted the handbrake mechanism. I'll have to do some mods to this (make up a new linkage) as its not quite long enough.
I decided to take all my wheels down to a local firm and have them all refinished in a matching colour. The red that I painted the fronts started to chip off quite badly, despite the etch primer, and the rear was bought off the shelf and was painted silver. My rear tyre and tube arrive tomorrow, so hopefully i'll have all the wheels back with tyres on before the weekend.
Retroguy - I did send you an email in return to your PM. Not sure if you've seen it as have had no reply.
Here's a picture of the rear brake line entering the arm (you can just see the coil) then exiting a few inches past the bolt flange..
The springs sit in little cups in the chassis. The top half reacts against the chassis rail itself, and the lower part is on a separate bit of steel with a strip seam welded around the seam to create a cup. I'm not a huge fan of this arrangement as there will be uneven loads going into the different parts that form the reacting surface. In order to even out this pressure, I've made some large "washers" that the springs react against. These are bonded into the chassis and create a single flush surface that the force goes through. They are 4mm thick, 100mm OD and 40mm ID.
I also trial fitted the pedalbox - we have a clash between the accelerator and the chassis rail. I have another pedal somewhere, so hopefully that one is slightly different, otherwise I'll have to crank it over, which isn't ideal. Its a dual cable pull, so what I might do is remove one of the lugs and make it a single pull. Then go to a splitter nearer the carbs... as yet undecided.
I also fitted the fuel tank, but not the pick-up/sender. As luck would have it, there's a handy hatch that will allow me to fit that later.
I also fitted the front left hub and driveshaft and also trial fitted the handbrake mechanism. I'll have to do some mods to this (make up a new linkage) as its not quite long enough.
I decided to take all my wheels down to a local firm and have them all refinished in a matching colour. The red that I painted the fronts started to chip off quite badly, despite the etch primer, and the rear was bought off the shelf and was painted silver. My rear tyre and tube arrive tomorrow, so hopefully i'll have all the wheels back with tyres on before the weekend.
Retroguy - I did send you an email in return to your PM. Not sure if you've seen it as have had no reply.
Here's a picture of the rear brake line entering the arm (you can just see the coil) then exiting a few inches past the bolt flange..
GOOD NEWS!
I rummaged around in the belly of the garage and found my other throttle pedal. This one was the one modified by PMC to go with this chassis, so I'm glad I found it.
Photos for comparison:
You can see that the lever to the cable pull is shorter and also the barrel at the top that takes the ends of the throttle bowden cables is also substantially narrower. Trial fit now shows a decent amount of clearance to the chassis rail.
My tyres are arriving tomorrow and aim to have it rolling asap!
I rummaged around in the belly of the garage and found my other throttle pedal. This one was the one modified by PMC to go with this chassis, so I'm glad I found it.
Photos for comparison:
You can see that the lever to the cable pull is shorter and also the barrel at the top that takes the ends of the throttle bowden cables is also substantially narrower. Trial fit now shows a decent amount of clearance to the chassis rail.
My tyres are arriving tomorrow and aim to have it rolling asap!
Some progress tonight, but bot a huge amount to show.
I've drilled off the holes for the handbrake mechanism, and modified the ratchet bracket to include 4x M8 Rivnuts to allow for easier fitment/removal without worrying about dropping nuts/washers.
I also bolted in the pedalbox and refitted the rear spring, cup and pull rod.
Most if this evening was spent experimenting and making tools though. One job that's looming is making a pair of seats. Most people buy seats, or modify some existing ones.
Never one to do things the easiest way, I'm going to (try to) make a pair of aluminium bucket seats, shaped specifically to match the back shape of the pembleton
To make them strong the bases and backs will have swaged holes in them, and the edges will be wired. With the lack of a bead roller, this will have to be done by hand, so I've been making a few tools and practicing tonight using some scrap bits of aluminium that were laying around on the floor all beat up.
Not bad for a first attempt!
I've drilled off the holes for the handbrake mechanism, and modified the ratchet bracket to include 4x M8 Rivnuts to allow for easier fitment/removal without worrying about dropping nuts/washers.
I also bolted in the pedalbox and refitted the rear spring, cup and pull rod.
Most if this evening was spent experimenting and making tools though. One job that's looming is making a pair of seats. Most people buy seats, or modify some existing ones.
Never one to do things the easiest way, I'm going to (try to) make a pair of aluminium bucket seats, shaped specifically to match the back shape of the pembleton
To make them strong the bases and backs will have swaged holes in them, and the edges will be wired. With the lack of a bead roller, this will have to be done by hand, so I've been making a few tools and practicing tonight using some scrap bits of aluminium that were laying around on the floor all beat up.
Not bad for a first attempt!
Scrump said:
Thanks for find the time to keep posting.
I am enjoying the thread and admire your skill.
Thanks for your kind words!I am enjoying the thread and admire your skill.
Until a few weeks ago I'd never bent a bit if metal in anger, or beat it with a hammer. Everything I do I'm learning as I go, either from inline pictures, how tos or tutorials.
If I can do it anyone can! Given the right aptitude and a bit if practice.
Doofus said:
That reminds me. What are you doing with the wheels and the motor from Victoria? 
They're currently clogging up the garage.I have the engine, plus a spare complete engine and a spare engine in bits, multiple carbs (solex and at least 2 pairs of keihin), inlet manifolds to suit both types of carbs, 2 wheels and tyres (virtually new), mudguards to suit the 2cv wheels, multiple 2cv alternators and loads of other odds and ends...
What'ya thunkin'?
Ambleton said:
They're currently clogging up the garage.
I have the engine, plus a spare complete engine and a spare engine in bits, multiple carbs (solex and at least 2 pairs of keihin), inlet manifolds to suit both types of carbs, 2 wheels and tyres (virtually new), mudguards to suit the 2cv wheels, multiple 2cv alternators and loads of other odds and ends...
What'ya thunkin'?
Sorry. Just a lame joke about three wheels and a washing machine motor.I have the engine, plus a spare complete engine and a spare engine in bits, multiple carbs (solex and at least 2 pairs of keihin), inlet manifolds to suit both types of carbs, 2 wheels and tyres (virtually new), mudguards to suit the 2cv wheels, multiple 2cv alternators and loads of other odds and ends...
What'ya thunkin'?
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