I'll AX this only once... though there is an Echo in here
Discussion
The week off has come and gone, and it's back to work next week, so in all of that time, I've made the AX flawless, right? Erm, well no, not really. The water leak into the footwell remains a mystery, and the headlight remains adequate but not optimal.
However, I did manage to do the brakes having established that it wasn't the wheel bearings! I've previously commented on what good value parts are for the AX, but I was after a little better stopping power without changes to the hubs/wheel size etc.
Time for some shiny upgrades....
I realise that drilled and grooved disks are the subject of debate, but they're not much more than the regular solid disks. The pads were an indulgence, let's hope they're a) worth it & b) actually work on the road without needing excessive stamps on the pedal to get them warm.
Thanks in this endeavour must go to past me, who, having had to cut the pad retaining pins out with a dremmel last time, copper slipped the hell out of the new ones back in February.
Present me passed on the favour to future me and added it to the list of things to do on the car every service... The new pins I bought just in case can go into the spares pile.
I did take the time to tap out a new thread in the hub for the missing (previously drilled out) brake disk retaining screw, and install new hex headed screws on both sides.
...and there we have it, a gentle upgrade that will make me smile as I know its there. Not bedded them in yet, but I'm hoping stopping power will be increased!
However, I did manage to do the brakes having established that it wasn't the wheel bearings! I've previously commented on what good value parts are for the AX, but I was after a little better stopping power without changes to the hubs/wheel size etc.
Time for some shiny upgrades....
I realise that drilled and grooved disks are the subject of debate, but they're not much more than the regular solid disks. The pads were an indulgence, let's hope they're a) worth it & b) actually work on the road without needing excessive stamps on the pedal to get them warm.
Thanks in this endeavour must go to past me, who, having had to cut the pad retaining pins out with a dremmel last time, copper slipped the hell out of the new ones back in February.
Present me passed on the favour to future me and added it to the list of things to do on the car every service... The new pins I bought just in case can go into the spares pile.
I did take the time to tap out a new thread in the hub for the missing (previously drilled out) brake disk retaining screw, and install new hex headed screws on both sides.
...and there we have it, a gentle upgrade that will make me smile as I know its there. Not bedded them in yet, but I'm hoping stopping power will be increased!
Thanks both, with the performance air filter as well, that's at least an additional 7.5hp! 
Having carried out the initial 20 bedding in stops, they feel good (at least the pulsing has gone, showing that brakes have been improved). After another couple of hundred miles of gentle braking, I'll see how they feel under harder use (although as you say, there's not much to stop)!
Ticked over this milestone as well, which means nothing, but was pleasing:
Starting a new job today which will hopefully allow more fettling time for the things I didn't get to last week....
Having carried out the initial 20 bedding in stops, they feel good (at least the pulsing has gone, showing that brakes have been improved). After another couple of hundred miles of gentle braking, I'll see how they feel under harder use (although as you say, there's not much to stop)!
Ticked over this milestone as well, which means nothing, but was pleasing:
Starting a new job today which will hopefully allow more fettling time for the things I didn't get to last week....
Cambs_Stuart said:
Excellent update. I'd be interested to know how the new brakes get on, with less than 800kg to stop and front biased weight distribution I'd be nervous of standing the AX on it's nose.
When the time comes to test them, I’m going to find a large wide section of ground (an old airfield near me perhaps) so that I know what to expect!Given the total absence of ABS, I suspect that forward progress will continue as the grip limits of the (admittedly very grippy) front tyres are found!
While I have no intention of having to react that way in regular road use, it’s good to be prepared, and it’s not like we plan these things!
The brakes have now bedded in beautifully, and feel much better than they did previously (although with a warped disk, that's not entirely surprising....)
Managed to fit in an oil and filter change as its had been about 6000 miles since the engine work.
The fuel economy continues to be around 46mpg in regular use through town and out to the stables. Over 50 on longer runs.
I'm slowly accumulating a list of jobs to tackle when I have the luxury of taking it off the road for more than a few hours at a time, but we're waiting on my wife's new work vehicle to materialise (now looking like 2022).
Managed to fit in an oil and filter change as its had been about 6000 miles since the engine work.
The fuel economy continues to be around 46mpg in regular use through town and out to the stables. Over 50 on longer runs.
I'm slowly accumulating a list of jobs to tackle when I have the luxury of taking it off the road for more than a few hours at a time, but we're waiting on my wife's new work vehicle to materialise (now looking like 2022).
Took the AX up to Durham today to collect a box of fairings that I couldn't strap to the bike I bought last week....
A little blustery, lots of trees, bits of trees and flooding, and a blast was had coming home on the Stokesley to Helmsley road.... You can have terrific fun at under the NSL in such a light car!
The battery light was glowing faintly at idle and part way through the revs, while it disappeared following the Yorkshire TT, I thought I better test it.
The belt tension is good, and there's no sign of slipping. Unfortunately the reading on the multimeter doesn't go above 13.3 regardless of revs, so it's time for a replacement alternator before this one gives up completely.
The gearstick trim had come off (unrelated to the day's frantic cog swapping antics), so I glued that back in place.
Oh yes, and it seemed only right to get some of the mud off!
A little blustery, lots of trees, bits of trees and flooding, and a blast was had coming home on the Stokesley to Helmsley road.... You can have terrific fun at under the NSL in such a light car!
The battery light was glowing faintly at idle and part way through the revs, while it disappeared following the Yorkshire TT, I thought I better test it.
The belt tension is good, and there's no sign of slipping. Unfortunately the reading on the multimeter doesn't go above 13.3 regardless of revs, so it's time for a replacement alternator before this one gives up completely.
The gearstick trim had come off (unrelated to the day's frantic cog swapping antics), so I glued that back in place.
Oh yes, and it seemed only right to get some of the mud off!
Bobberoo said:
That's a bugger about the alternator, are the expensive? I know when I had the one on the old Focus done there was about 4 alternatives it could have been, and as per normal it was the most expensive one!!
For once, it's seems that there are only two options presented - petrol and diesel. This immediately makes me suspicious given things like choosing brake pads, but we'll give it a go! Not too bad price wise, they seem to range from £55 for a second hand unit, up to £90 for a new one. I've plumped for a refurbished unit with a year's warranty for £65 (although typically the battery light is no longer glowing...)However, I trust the multimeter more than I do the light, so I'll try and get the new unit fitted when it arrives.
Access to the alternator is (on the face of it) pretty good. A couple of 13mm bolts at the bottom where the adjustment is, and a large 16mm bolt at the top.
However, if you're winding out the top bolt, you'll need either a spanner or a crow foot socket for the last part...
You'll then find that there still isn't enough clearance to get to top bolt out without loosening 2no. T40 torx headed bolts, or creatively remodeling the inner wing seam with a punch and hammer.... or both.
Having done all of this, you can change the alternator easily... to find the battery light stop glows and the measured output at the terminals hasn't changed.
If you're really lucky, the (now suspect) battery will finally give up at the livery yard 10 miles away having bunny hopped the car the final mile or two!
My other half got a lift back, and my morning cycle ride was to go and collect said battery for testing and (likely) replacement....
On a related note, according to the book of lies, the output at the terminals should be between 12 and 13v, further suggesting that I may have bought a spare alternator for no reason. To be continued....
However, if you're winding out the top bolt, you'll need either a spanner or a crow foot socket for the last part...
You'll then find that there still isn't enough clearance to get to top bolt out without loosening 2no. T40 torx headed bolts, or creatively remodeling the inner wing seam with a punch and hammer.... or both.
Having done all of this, you can change the alternator easily... to find the battery light stop glows and the measured output at the terminals hasn't changed.
If you're really lucky, the (now suspect) battery will finally give up at the livery yard 10 miles away having bunny hopped the car the final mile or two!
My other half got a lift back, and my morning cycle ride was to go and collect said battery for testing and (likely) replacement....
On a related note, according to the book of lies, the output at the terminals should be between 12 and 13v, further suggesting that I may have bought a spare alternator for no reason. To be continued....
There's noting like an easily accessible bolt that can't be removed as bit lumps of car are in the way. Almost as much fun as realising, slightly too late, that various bolts you've removed are all slightly different lengths and you've no idea which ones go where.
I've really been enjoying the updates. Hope you get it back into reliable service soon.
I've really been enjoying the updates. Hope you get it back into reliable service soon.
Well, the battery was the same price as the alternator, but, having gone out and fitted it this lunchtime, I'm cautiously optimistic....
More Amp Hours and more Cold Cranking Amps...
Most importantly, no battery light on start up (but that could be just because the new battery is healthy and fully charged).
Fingers crossed!
More Amp Hours and more Cold Cranking Amps...
Most importantly, no battery light on start up (but that could be just because the new battery is healthy and fully charged).
Fingers crossed!
InitialDave said:
AHAHAHAHA 
Sorry, I know it's frustrating, but I had that exact problem when I had an AX, and I thought it was just mine someone had used the wrong bolt on.
Sorry, I know it's frustrating, but I had that exact problem when I had an AX, and I thought it was just mine someone had used the wrong bolt on.
- Glad it wasn't just me then!The OH has reported that the battery light has come on - it looks like its absence was down to the new battery and very little drain on it driving home in the light yesterday.... Whether she makes it home the 10m or not in the dark tonight remains to be seen. At least its not raining as well.
So, it's not the alternator, and it's not the battery. Next step is to check the battery cables, earths and wiring - all before heading off tomorrow evening for a shift in London on Sunday.... At least I have Monday/Tuesday off and a fully charged now 'spare' battery, so can swap them out for a limited time!
darkyoung1000 said:
This really made me laugh today - sorry for your misery but thank you for the chuckle!I know you've swapped the battery and alternator - is there an alternator relay in the fusebox? Also just from some other random experiences - if there are other relays and circuits with fuzzy contacts/random issues this could be causing issues in the circuit. Once I had the ignition at 'position 1', turned on everything and just listened out for a relay clicking bizarrely...
Edited by Spinakerr on Monday 13th December 09:59
Managed to crack on with the AX this morning before the weather turned.... This post is more to record what I did in my investigations, so will be rather dull, but reader, I fixed it.
Started with removing the battery to get some access to the wiring loom and tray...
There were some obvious candidates for a poor circuit and earths, so I set about clearing them up first. The connection at the wing didn't look great:
Neither did the wire going to it, so that got a new terminal as well.
Cleaned up the negative lead where it earths on the gearbox
So the negative terminal connections were as good as they could be without ordering new cables.
Next up was to recheck and clean all the alternator connections :
Then all of the wires and connectors at the auxiliary fuse box got a good dousing with contact cleaner:
I'd found a few bits that weren't great, but nothing that made me think 'ah-ha, this is the cause,' so I went back to ie Haynes manual to check the wiring diagram.
After a couple of head scratching moments (no, it's not a GT - which has a totally different arrangement), I established where the output from the alternator meets the input to the battery. It's at the starter motor, at the back of the engine under the air intake and filter. Can I really be bothered to take this apart, my fettling may have already fixed it right...?
I was glad I did, as, while it's difficult to get a photo of, the source of my problems was immediately obvious. A loose nut on the starter motor, and subsequent, or poor starting on occasions and no decent connection for the alternator output to get to the battery.
The positive terminal connection got a good clean up as well:
I can't have tightened it up properly when I put the car back together, and 6000 miles later, the nut had worked loose, giving all the symptoms of a falling alternator. Oh well, at least I have a spare! I'm too paranoid about over tightening bolts and shearing them, so sometimes I clearly err too much on the side of caution.
On a totally unrelated note, while I was under the car, I spotted this :
It was the only loose one, and has now been made good.
All was reassembled in the engine bay, with a healthy coating of ACF50 on any no-friction dependant surface to keep the corrosion at bay :
A positive result on testing!
I also carried out a temporary fix on the reverted off side headlight with the broken sockets for the headlight adjuster. Let's see how long the UHU holds (although I think I've found a supplier of new headlights for RHD cars at a not outrageous price....
Started with removing the battery to get some access to the wiring loom and tray...
There were some obvious candidates for a poor circuit and earths, so I set about clearing them up first. The connection at the wing didn't look great:
Neither did the wire going to it, so that got a new terminal as well.
Cleaned up the negative lead where it earths on the gearbox
So the negative terminal connections were as good as they could be without ordering new cables.
Next up was to recheck and clean all the alternator connections :
Then all of the wires and connectors at the auxiliary fuse box got a good dousing with contact cleaner:
I'd found a few bits that weren't great, but nothing that made me think 'ah-ha, this is the cause,' so I went back to ie Haynes manual to check the wiring diagram.
After a couple of head scratching moments (no, it's not a GT - which has a totally different arrangement), I established where the output from the alternator meets the input to the battery. It's at the starter motor, at the back of the engine under the air intake and filter. Can I really be bothered to take this apart, my fettling may have already fixed it right...?
I was glad I did, as, while it's difficult to get a photo of, the source of my problems was immediately obvious. A loose nut on the starter motor, and subsequent, or poor starting on occasions and no decent connection for the alternator output to get to the battery.
The positive terminal connection got a good clean up as well:
I can't have tightened it up properly when I put the car back together, and 6000 miles later, the nut had worked loose, giving all the symptoms of a falling alternator. Oh well, at least I have a spare! I'm too paranoid about over tightening bolts and shearing them, so sometimes I clearly err too much on the side of caution.
On a totally unrelated note, while I was under the car, I spotted this :
It was the only loose one, and has now been made good.
All was reassembled in the engine bay, with a healthy coating of ACF50 on any no-friction dependant surface to keep the corrosion at bay :
A positive result on testing!
I also carried out a temporary fix on the reverted off side headlight with the broken sockets for the headlight adjuster. Let's see how long the UHU holds (although I think I've found a supplier of new headlights for RHD cars at a not outrageous price....
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