I'll AX this only once... though there is an Echo in here
Discussion
MOT time for the AX, and at least I could be sure that the advisories from last time wouldn't be an issue as the wishbones and tyres has all been replaced. What new issues might lurk though....? A pre-MOT wash and walk round revealed nothing obvious, so in it went.
The result? A solid pass.
A chat with the MOT tester afterwards for more details revealed the location of the blow was near the back box where it connects to the mid-section...the same place as the missing hanger.
Oh yes, that would be it then.
I'll start looking at exhaust options, as it's not going to fix itself, but at least I could take care of the hanger as I had a stash of spares. Yes, yes I did weigh the different hangers and install the lighter one. I need help.
I think the oil leak is the remnants of the falling cam cover gasket which I've not cleaned off, but one to check next time I'm under the car.
The result? A solid pass.
A chat with the MOT tester afterwards for more details revealed the location of the blow was near the back box where it connects to the mid-section...the same place as the missing hanger.
Oh yes, that would be it then.
I'll start looking at exhaust options, as it's not going to fix itself, but at least I could take care of the hanger as I had a stash of spares. Yes, yes I did weigh the different hangers and install the lighter one. I need help.
I think the oil leak is the remnants of the falling cam cover gasket which I've not cleaned off, but one to check next time I'm under the car.
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Wednesday 24th May 12:40
darkyoung1000 said:
Of course 760kgs of French finery makes an ideal tow car, why do you ask....
Fond memories of a mate towing my Orion 1.6L from Saundersfoot to Tenby in a 1.0 AX in the mid-90s. It definitely struggled up the hills in between!Luckily found a garage open on a Saturday afternoon (our holiday was over!) with a spare alternator.
Those were the days! I always loved a go in one of these or a 105.
Cambs_Stuart said:
That's a pretty good pass! Hope you have fun with it. Any plans for big road trips in the AX this summer?
I had an absolute whale of a time with a Lotus Elise Clubsport on the run out to the PHSS at the Motorist a couple of weeks ago. Some favourite local roads early on a Sunday morning trying to maintain momentum following a faster (although heavier) car. Great fun!With the Volvo going, the AX is going to be used for a holiday to Cornwall in June, and then Le Mans Classic in July. Should up the 6000 miles from last year a little bit!
Well, that escalated quickly as they say.... It's only an advisory, but I just thought I'd check and see what my options were for Stainless Steel exhausts.
Oh look there's a full stainless system on eBay from an AX GT. With good photos and measurements. In a place where I'll be for work in the next month.
More updates to follow
Oh look there's a full stainless system on eBay from an AX GT. With good photos and measurements. In a place where I'll be for work in the next month.
More updates to follow
darkyoung1000 said:
Well, that escalated quickly as they say.... It's only an advisory, but I just thought I'd check and see what my options were for Stainless Steel exhausts.
Oh look there's a full stainless system on eBay from an AX GT. With good photos and measurements. In a place where I'll be for work in the next month. At a really cheap price.
More updates to follow
Fixed that for you, in case anyone asks, right? Good stuff!Oh look there's a full stainless system on eBay from an AX GT. With good photos and measurements. In a place where I'll be for work in the next month. At a really cheap price.
More updates to follow
First of the summer's longer trips today, down to Cornwall which is a LONG way from Yorkshire.
A 9.5 hour trip including stops at over 50mpg despite forgetting myself once or twice an indulging in a spot of hooliganism (mostly round Exeter with an i20/i30n (I'm not sure which it was).
A slightly disturbing sight knocking/vibration is now apparent under hard left hand corners under power. I think it was developing before we left, but warrants further investigation.
I have a weekend in mind when we get back prior to the next long trip to Le Mans.
For now however, Cornwall is a beautiful place to be, and I'm go easy on the throttle when cornering!
A 9.5 hour trip including stops at over 50mpg despite forgetting myself once or twice an indulging in a spot of hooliganism (mostly round Exeter with an i20/i30n (I'm not sure which it was).
A slightly disturbing sight knocking/vibration is now apparent under hard left hand corners under power. I think it was developing before we left, but warrants further investigation.
I have a weekend in mind when we get back prior to the next long trip to Le Mans.
For now however, Cornwall is a beautiful place to be, and I'm go easy on the throttle when cornering!
1000 miles of motoring later, and back home in York.
Lots of lovely scenery in Cornwall and all the way up the country on a non-motorway journey to stay in Derbyshire and South Yorkshire to finish off.
A valiant performance by the Dude, the grumbling (suspected wheel bearing) remains under hard left turns and acceleration only, but a garage appointment awaits due to my lack of bearing press....
I have next weekend earmarked for some work as well (weather permitting).
I even managed to pick up a not quite period genuine Citroën accessory in a pop up charity stall at Wentworth Castle Gardens
Once cleaned up, and dead spiders removed, the collapsible wheeled shopping trolley may come in handy. For clarity, I'm talking about the small folding plastic accessory, not the car.
Lots of lovely scenery in Cornwall and all the way up the country on a non-motorway journey to stay in Derbyshire and South Yorkshire to finish off.
A valiant performance by the Dude, the grumbling (suspected wheel bearing) remains under hard left turns and acceleration only, but a garage appointment awaits due to my lack of bearing press....
I have next weekend earmarked for some work as well (weather permitting).
I even managed to pick up a not quite period genuine Citroën accessory in a pop up charity stall at Wentworth Castle Gardens
Once cleaned up, and dead spiders removed, the collapsible wheeled shopping trolley may come in handy. For clarity, I'm talking about the small folding plastic accessory, not the car.
There's a long list of stuff that needs doing, on the AX, as well as an aspirational list of nice to do stuff (of course). It's going into the garage on Monday for someone else with a 10t press to do the front wheel bearings, but I have made some progress today.
I managed to get most of the tree sap off it last night and into the back yard so I could get started as soon as I wanted to:
although I did have an 'assistant' who I had to try and not disturb (this is the law of cat):
Soaked the old fastenings at the manifold in penetrating oil, but they didn't put up a fight, as the manifold to mid section only got tightened up when the engine fettling happened a couple of years back (and the 'oil leak, but not excessive' advisory has been helping one of them stay unseized.....
Gloves, eye protection....none of which saved me from dropping the back box on my face when it slipped off the mounts, but it came of all too readily!
Of course I weighed it....it's about 1kg lighter despite being larger diameter which is good. The better news? It's actually designed for an AX - not 'designed for an AX but you'll have to cut a section out of it to make it fit.' I offered it up to the manifold and the alignment down the rest of the car was excellent:
All going too smoothly to continue in the vein of course. The larger diameter meant that the connections I'd carefully undone to save were just too short and I couldn't get a nut on the thread to tighten it up. I wasted half an hour trying of course, before reminding myself that this was why I started early so that the motor factors were still open. For specific exhaust flange mounting bolts for a mid-90s Citroen that how many left thinks there are 330 left on the road last year. Piece of cake....
Unsurprisingly, they didn't have exactly what I needed, but a trawl of CTS, Fastpack and Barnitts yielded the following haul:
The solution arrived at was an M6 x 75mm stainless bolt and nut, using an M8 domed nut with the thread drilled out and an M6 hole drilled in it to replicate the ball section of the shank. The collet came from some M8 aluminium tubing and a new penny washer with an enlarged hole. I reused the springs and shaped washers.
I did contemplate scaling the bolts up to M8, but thought that as the existing M6 ones were doing an adequate job, there was no need for overkill!
All of which, looked like this (eventually):
Overall I was quite happy with the connection it offered!
Then trying to put the rear section on, I had to take the entire thing off again, as it was not going to be persuaded into place in-situ:
|https://thumbsnap.com/r9Z55w9c[/url]
Having wrestled the whole thing into place as a single piece, it really did follow the alignment of the floor plan beautifully.
Handily, I'd bought the wrong size exhaust clamp for one of the bikes, so was able to use that for the join (the clamp that came with the exhaust was 54mm, this starts at 55mm but was close enough to get a good seal.
[url]
Also, I think I might have solved my 'gearbox slowly separating from engine' issue. There is a mounting section on the exhaust manifold that should have a bolt in it going through to the gearbox as well as holding the exhaust in place. I have no idea why it's wound out as I remember putting it in post-engine works, but it's no longer there. Luckily I had a non-original 75mm bolt to take its place - carefully wound in by hand to not cross-thread anything before being tightened up:
While spending time contemplating the underside of the engine, I think I've found the source of the oil leak and it's not one of the usual candidates - it's actually coming down from the air intake section where it connects to the inlet manifold. I think there is some excess oil being thrown out of the breather in the cam cover and it's making its way down the back of the engine. One for more investigation tomorrow....
Everything tightened up, and I started it to check for leaks. All seems good...however, it is a little bit louder than the standard one (to be expected). Unfortunately, this means that I'm now driving a 1.1l badged Citroen AX with a twin pipe stainless exhaust from a GT. I also pulled the door speaker out to see what the output is as it tends to distort when the volume is high and I'd like more powerful ones:
The Dimma bodykit is on order
I then did a little bit of rust tidying to the more obvious bits. Luckily still surface stuff, but I really don't want to try and find replacement doors.
Power wire brush and two applications of rust removal gel followed by some very gloopy brush applied Rustins anti corrosion paint:
I'll let that go off overnight, then use some filler primer and colour match to seamlessly blend it in so its like new....or something like that.
I managed to get most of the tree sap off it last night and into the back yard so I could get started as soon as I wanted to:
although I did have an 'assistant' who I had to try and not disturb (this is the law of cat):
Soaked the old fastenings at the manifold in penetrating oil, but they didn't put up a fight, as the manifold to mid section only got tightened up when the engine fettling happened a couple of years back (and the 'oil leak, but not excessive' advisory has been helping one of them stay unseized.....
Gloves, eye protection....none of which saved me from dropping the back box on my face when it slipped off the mounts, but it came of all too readily!
Of course I weighed it....it's about 1kg lighter despite being larger diameter which is good. The better news? It's actually designed for an AX - not 'designed for an AX but you'll have to cut a section out of it to make it fit.' I offered it up to the manifold and the alignment down the rest of the car was excellent:
All going too smoothly to continue in the vein of course. The larger diameter meant that the connections I'd carefully undone to save were just too short and I couldn't get a nut on the thread to tighten it up. I wasted half an hour trying of course, before reminding myself that this was why I started early so that the motor factors were still open. For specific exhaust flange mounting bolts for a mid-90s Citroen that how many left thinks there are 330 left on the road last year. Piece of cake....
Unsurprisingly, they didn't have exactly what I needed, but a trawl of CTS, Fastpack and Barnitts yielded the following haul:
The solution arrived at was an M6 x 75mm stainless bolt and nut, using an M8 domed nut with the thread drilled out and an M6 hole drilled in it to replicate the ball section of the shank. The collet came from some M8 aluminium tubing and a new penny washer with an enlarged hole. I reused the springs and shaped washers.
I did contemplate scaling the bolts up to M8, but thought that as the existing M6 ones were doing an adequate job, there was no need for overkill!
All of which, looked like this (eventually):
Overall I was quite happy with the connection it offered!
Then trying to put the rear section on, I had to take the entire thing off again, as it was not going to be persuaded into place in-situ:
|https://thumbsnap.com/r9Z55w9c[/url]Having wrestled the whole thing into place as a single piece, it really did follow the alignment of the floor plan beautifully.
Handily, I'd bought the wrong size exhaust clamp for one of the bikes, so was able to use that for the join (the clamp that came with the exhaust was 54mm, this starts at 55mm but was close enough to get a good seal.
[url]Also, I think I might have solved my 'gearbox slowly separating from engine' issue. There is a mounting section on the exhaust manifold that should have a bolt in it going through to the gearbox as well as holding the exhaust in place. I have no idea why it's wound out as I remember putting it in post-engine works, but it's no longer there. Luckily I had a non-original 75mm bolt to take its place - carefully wound in by hand to not cross-thread anything before being tightened up:
While spending time contemplating the underside of the engine, I think I've found the source of the oil leak and it's not one of the usual candidates - it's actually coming down from the air intake section where it connects to the inlet manifold. I think there is some excess oil being thrown out of the breather in the cam cover and it's making its way down the back of the engine. One for more investigation tomorrow....
Everything tightened up, and I started it to check for leaks. All seems good...however, it is a little bit louder than the standard one (to be expected). Unfortunately, this means that I'm now driving a 1.1l badged Citroen AX with a twin pipe stainless exhaust from a GT. I also pulled the door speaker out to see what the output is as it tends to distort when the volume is high and I'd like more powerful ones:
The Dimma bodykit is on order
I then did a little bit of rust tidying to the more obvious bits. Luckily still surface stuff, but I really don't want to try and find replacement doors.
Power wire brush and two applications of rust removal gel followed by some very gloopy brush applied Rustins anti corrosion paint:
I'll let that go off overnight, then use some filler primer and colour match to seamlessly blend it in so its like new....or something like that.
Another excellent update, I'm sorry but I did laugh at the"back box in the face" moment!! 
Re the speakers, are you using an after market headunit?
There are many different ways to get better sound in the little AX, if it's an after market unit then look at either JBL Club or GTO speakers or JL Audio C1 series, if it's not after market then it's not powerful enough to run those speakers, done a lot of audio work over the years, feel free to PM me.
Re the speakers, are you using an after market headunit?
There are many different ways to get better sound in the little AX, if it's an after market unit then look at either JBL Club or GTO speakers or JL Audio C1 series, if it's not after market then it's not powerful enough to run those speakers, done a lot of audio work over the years, feel free to PM me.
Thanks for your comments all - much appreciated, I managed to make some more progress yesterday too....
That said, I did take it out for a test run before the rain yesterday once I'd finished and it's not as obtrusive or obnoxious as I feared - just a little louder. Having said that, my benchmark of 'obnoxious' is my wife's Triumph Street Triple R on factory fit Arrow unseat pipes, so my opinion might not be valid.... It did make me smile a lot though (and I didn't see anyone wincing)!
This is what it looks like in-situ BTW - turns out the ramps were slightly at an angle, so 'straight' while on the ramps, isn't on the flat. This will be adjusted the next time I have it up for work.
As to the other stuff from yesterday, it was mostly bodywork (not my forte as the bonnet will testify...) The plan was not to have it looking magnificent, I have a body shop for that if so desired once they've finished the Corrado (in 2 weeks apparently), but to stop it rusting more and not look obvious.
Filler primer on top of the corrosion inhibiting primer then prep and a goodly number of coasts of top coat, then 3 coats of clearcoat to finish.
I don't have a shot of the final paint, but it needs tidying of tape lines as a minimum....
I changed the blower motor over for a 2-speed one from an earlier AX, as finding a 3-speed one was proving difficult, and having proved that the resistors advertised online are completely unsuitable a couple of years ago, this appeared my only choice.
Getting it out, was....more difficult than I remember. 'Remove the section under the steering column, undo the two 10mm nuts and withdraw.' says Haynes. This is not the full picture.
What you actually need to do is slacken the dashboard securing nut under the fusebox so that you can attempt the 3D puzzle one-handed, while blind as the other hand desperately tries to create an extra 5mm of clearance to stop the motor housing fouling the rear of the relay and fuse wiring and tearing out chunks of the loom.
Still I managed it in the end, and the two units are very similar externally, the clue being one has a 4 pin plug, and one a 3 pin plug. I shall take apart the 3-speed one to try and find and replace the resistor (probably when the two speed one fails in a week or so....). I oiled the bearings on the replacement unit as well, as it squeaked a lot when first tested....
Getting it back again? Worse than removing it. Considerably worse as you're fighting gravity as well as contorting yourself into the space of the drivers' footwell. Fixing it in place is achieved using the 'Corrado ignition switch replacement' position - back on the floor of the footwell, feet on the headrest while using all available body parts to manipulate sockets, extension bars, flexible extension bars and dropped fastenings. This is the aperture from below:
I also had part of the centre console out to repair the blower knob which had previously failed, been repaired and failed again. This fix may work, but I need to tape over the 'III' position on the dash, as the 2-speed motor clicks to 'I' and 'II' and I don't want to try and rotate it too far and break it again!
I had the steering wheel off to look at the dash illumination (without hitting myself in the face with it - top tip, remove the nut half-way, then loosen it from the splines....), as I bought some replacement bulbs, but to fully extract it will require the disconnection of the speedo drive cable from the gearbox, and this will have to wait for another day. I did take care when reassembling it though, as I think last time I overtightened the nut causing the wheel to rub slightly on the surround behind it.
On to the oil leak - this seems to be issuing from the plastic intake system above the single point injection system over the inlet manifold and running down the block:
I think the pair of O-rings are OK, but perhaps not quite secure, as the connection over the injection system and air filter isn't level with the air filter housing resting on the bottom of its tray. I suspect I've tried to connect the air filter housing first then not properly secured the intake housing, so made some alterations to the levels.
This is just the symptom though, there shouldn't be an excess of oil being flung about by the cams through the breather in the first place. I checked the oil level, and it was slightly over maximum, so I dropped a few hundred mm out of the sump. Then cleaned out the breather hoses in the plastic unit:
I didn't pull the hose with the green valve from the throttle body, as it needs the air filter removing, so that's one for next time... I'll see if the leak persists from the same place.
Other cosmetics? Well, as I can't find the number plate screw kit I know I have, I had to content myself with a new sticker for the rear windscreen:
Not in the same place unfortunately, but as the replacement was designed for internal application unlike the old one which was on the outside of the windscreen, it will do, as the glass bonded to the boot prevents access....
I also secured the loose rubber matt on the drivers' side, as there were two holes in it for just that purpose. Exciting stuff!
The test drive for the exhaust was glorious - mostly empty roads with passing opportunities for the odd slower caravan. The steering is lighter following reassembly, and I was listening to both the exhaust, and a compilation tape entitled 'B-road bad behaviour (Leftfield, Moby, Fluke, Propellerheads etc.).
Splendid!
Off to the garage with it this evening, so someone with a press can do the wheel bearings, although, on the test drive, I didn't head the noise. Interesting....
Bobberoo said:
Re the speakers, are you using an after market headunit?
There are many different ways to get better sound in the little AX, if it's an after market unit then look at either JBL Club or GTO speakers or JL Audio C1 series, if it's not after market then it's not powerful enough to run those speakers, done a lot of audio work over the years, feel free to PM me.
Thanks very much for the offer and information - it's not the original head unit, that went a few years ago when the volume control knob would cause one or both speakers to drop out.... It's a period (ish) correct Clarion unit (with a cassette player). Unfortunately, I saw this after ordering some replacement speakers with a better RMS rating. I may PM you so you can outline me next options when they prove to be no better though!There are many different ways to get better sound in the little AX, if it's an after market unit then look at either JBL Club or GTO speakers or JL Audio C1 series, if it's not after market then it's not powerful enough to run those speakers, done a lot of audio work over the years, feel free to PM me.
Cambs_Stuart said:
Good work. Fitting an exhaust by yourself with the car on stands is not an easy job.
Now, time for a midnight tunnel run?
Thank you - I confess it had its moments, I think I'm getting the day 2 DOMS today from the weekend's contortions. I think tomorrow may be worse! The only 'tunnel' in York is the one by the railway station, which unfortunately has some 4 way lights on it at the moment, making reliable solo access difficult. It's the route I usually take to the motorbike shop otherwise.... I am such a child. Now, time for a midnight tunnel run?
That said, I did take it out for a test run before the rain yesterday once I'd finished and it's not as obtrusive or obnoxious as I feared - just a little louder. Having said that, my benchmark of 'obnoxious' is my wife's Triumph Street Triple R on factory fit Arrow unseat pipes, so my opinion might not be valid.... It did make me smile a lot though (and I didn't see anyone wincing)!
This is what it looks like in-situ BTW - turns out the ramps were slightly at an angle, so 'straight' while on the ramps, isn't on the flat. This will be adjusted the next time I have it up for work.
cavebloke said:
You’ve been at the Copperslip again haven’t you darkyoung? Go on, admit it!
Who...me? I don't know what you mean! Spinakerr said:
I do love that twinpipe - the machining of the replacement nut/collett is impressive, nicely done!
Hope the face is ok after exhaust droppage. I don't think I've ever not dropped an exhaust on my head when looking at them.
Thanks - minimal damage I think, my spine is worse after doing the blower.... I confess, I was quite pleased with making up the fastenings, a real sense of satisfaction.Hope the face is ok after exhaust droppage. I don't think I've ever not dropped an exhaust on my head when looking at them.
As to the other stuff from yesterday, it was mostly bodywork (not my forte as the bonnet will testify...) The plan was not to have it looking magnificent, I have a body shop for that if so desired once they've finished the Corrado (in 2 weeks apparently), but to stop it rusting more and not look obvious.
Filler primer on top of the corrosion inhibiting primer then prep and a goodly number of coasts of top coat, then 3 coats of clearcoat to finish.
I don't have a shot of the final paint, but it needs tidying of tape lines as a minimum....
I changed the blower motor over for a 2-speed one from an earlier AX, as finding a 3-speed one was proving difficult, and having proved that the resistors advertised online are completely unsuitable a couple of years ago, this appeared my only choice.
Getting it out, was....more difficult than I remember. 'Remove the section under the steering column, undo the two 10mm nuts and withdraw.' says Haynes. This is not the full picture.
What you actually need to do is slacken the dashboard securing nut under the fusebox so that you can attempt the 3D puzzle one-handed, while blind as the other hand desperately tries to create an extra 5mm of clearance to stop the motor housing fouling the rear of the relay and fuse wiring and tearing out chunks of the loom.
Still I managed it in the end, and the two units are very similar externally, the clue being one has a 4 pin plug, and one a 3 pin plug. I shall take apart the 3-speed one to try and find and replace the resistor (probably when the two speed one fails in a week or so....). I oiled the bearings on the replacement unit as well, as it squeaked a lot when first tested....
Getting it back again? Worse than removing it. Considerably worse as you're fighting gravity as well as contorting yourself into the space of the drivers' footwell. Fixing it in place is achieved using the 'Corrado ignition switch replacement' position - back on the floor of the footwell, feet on the headrest while using all available body parts to manipulate sockets, extension bars, flexible extension bars and dropped fastenings. This is the aperture from below:
I also had part of the centre console out to repair the blower knob which had previously failed, been repaired and failed again. This fix may work, but I need to tape over the 'III' position on the dash, as the 2-speed motor clicks to 'I' and 'II' and I don't want to try and rotate it too far and break it again!
I had the steering wheel off to look at the dash illumination (without hitting myself in the face with it - top tip, remove the nut half-way, then loosen it from the splines....), as I bought some replacement bulbs, but to fully extract it will require the disconnection of the speedo drive cable from the gearbox, and this will have to wait for another day. I did take care when reassembling it though, as I think last time I overtightened the nut causing the wheel to rub slightly on the surround behind it.
On to the oil leak - this seems to be issuing from the plastic intake system above the single point injection system over the inlet manifold and running down the block:
I think the pair of O-rings are OK, but perhaps not quite secure, as the connection over the injection system and air filter isn't level with the air filter housing resting on the bottom of its tray. I suspect I've tried to connect the air filter housing first then not properly secured the intake housing, so made some alterations to the levels.
This is just the symptom though, there shouldn't be an excess of oil being flung about by the cams through the breather in the first place. I checked the oil level, and it was slightly over maximum, so I dropped a few hundred mm out of the sump. Then cleaned out the breather hoses in the plastic unit:
I didn't pull the hose with the green valve from the throttle body, as it needs the air filter removing, so that's one for next time... I'll see if the leak persists from the same place.
Other cosmetics? Well, as I can't find the number plate screw kit I know I have, I had to content myself with a new sticker for the rear windscreen:
Not in the same place unfortunately, but as the replacement was designed for internal application unlike the old one which was on the outside of the windscreen, it will do, as the glass bonded to the boot prevents access....
I also secured the loose rubber matt on the drivers' side, as there were two holes in it for just that purpose. Exciting stuff!
The test drive for the exhaust was glorious - mostly empty roads with passing opportunities for the odd slower caravan. The steering is lighter following reassembly, and I was listening to both the exhaust, and a compilation tape entitled 'B-road bad behaviour (Leftfield, Moby, Fluke, Propellerheads etc.).
Splendid!
Off to the garage with it this evening, so someone with a press can do the wheel bearings, although, on the test drive, I didn't head the noise. Interesting....
Good news from the garage, it's not the wheel bearings, and the drive shafts look fine as well (confirming what I could see when I was under it at the weekend....). The cause of the noise? A suspected protrusion from the area of the ball joint rubbing on the disc on full left lock that was causing the noise and vibration. It's marked the disc slightly, but not damaged it any way. The cost of the test drive and diagnosis on a 4 post lift? £20 to the garage beer fund. Splendid.
The UHU has glued the heater knob nicely in place which now works on double the settings it previously had - just in time for....oh. Well, I'll appreciate it in the autumn I'm sure.
Onto a 'nice to do' upgrade then - the speakers. Not to listen to bangin' choons, but so the audiobook could be turned up without distorting. Why yes, I AM embracing middle age, why do you ask?
These arrived in the post - an upgrade in potential maximum power and RMS, possibly to make no difference whatsoever given the standard head unit.
Still an easy job, prise off the covers with a flat bladed screwdriver and then undo 4 no. phillips head screws per speaker:
Of course the connections were slightly different, one of the blade crimps needed replacing with a wider one, and for this, there is a tool I'm glad I bought years ago. I don't need it often, but the ratchet action means you can hold the connector gently while positioning the wire, then crimp it to a good finish:
Old vs. New:
A quick test run of them in motion has revealed the sound quality is better at the treble end, although if really pushed (Walk this Land by E-Z Rollers), the bass does distort (on that track, it's really not a surprise though.... Hopefully, this means that the treble will maintain its clarity on audio books which is where it was giving up at high volume previously.
To be tested on the run to Le Mans Classic next week.....
The UHU has glued the heater knob nicely in place which now works on double the settings it previously had - just in time for....oh. Well, I'll appreciate it in the autumn I'm sure.
Onto a 'nice to do' upgrade then - the speakers. Not to listen to bangin' choons, but so the audiobook could be turned up without distorting. Why yes, I AM embracing middle age, why do you ask?
These arrived in the post - an upgrade in potential maximum power and RMS, possibly to make no difference whatsoever given the standard head unit.
Still an easy job, prise off the covers with a flat bladed screwdriver and then undo 4 no. phillips head screws per speaker:
Of course the connections were slightly different, one of the blade crimps needed replacing with a wider one, and for this, there is a tool I'm glad I bought years ago. I don't need it often, but the ratchet action means you can hold the connector gently while positioning the wire, then crimp it to a good finish:
Old vs. New:
A quick test run of them in motion has revealed the sound quality is better at the treble end, although if really pushed (Walk this Land by E-Z Rollers), the bass does distort (on that track, it's really not a surprise though.... Hopefully, this means that the treble will maintain its clarity on audio books which is where it was giving up at high volume previously.
To be tested on the run to Le Mans Classic next week.....
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