Phoenix from the flames - Porsche Boxster with an Audi 2.7T

[Escy]

Since the car is pretty much finished I've been using it it a bit lately. I went to a local car meet on Wednesday (Lisvane Car Club), I forgot to take photos but there was lots of nice stuff. This morning I went to Queen Square breakfast meet in Bristol. It was Porsche themed so we all got decent parking spots. It was a good meet, never been before. Lots of people have read this thread and come and talk to me which is really nice.

[Escy]

I thought I had sorted out any issues with boost pipes coming off after I started using the Murray constant tension hose clamps. I've easily had over a hundred pulls (road and dyno) without any issues at all. As I've been tuning it the boost has risen slightly but only talking a couple of psi but it seems to have been enough to give me issues.

I've had the boost pipe going from the turbo to the charge cooler pop off once, since that's happened it's now happening all the time. Every time I drive it it seems to pop off, I get maybe 4-5 pulls before it does it. It seems odd how it's been fine for ages, pops off once then suddenly becomes a major issue.

There's obviously a weakness there now but I'm not sure what. The charge cooler is bolted to the engine, there is no movement in it. I've got a lip welded onto the charge cooler. The hose itself looks fine, no signs of damage. The clamp looks fine. I guess I'll just change the clamp and hose. The last time I fitted the pipe back on I sprayed contact adhesive on the charge cooler end and inside of the silicone hose, thinking it would make the difference. It didn't. That's what the yellow on the charge cooler is (not oil, there is a bit of oil residue but not much).



A couple of photos, I'm still on the fence about putting the Porsche side stripes back on.

[ridds]

Weld bead isn't tall enough, space behind the bead is too small, uneven height allows oil to seep through due to imperfect clamping.

Quick fix, a narrower clamp fully on the other side of the bead. Fully clean all oil from everywhere.

Long fix, extend pipe, increase bead height, wider clamp back on fully behind the bead.

[MDifficult]

The only other thought.. what’s the heat resistance of the contact adhesive? Could it be melting once you get up to temp, turning the adhesive into a lubricant?

As always, I marvel at your ingenuity so I’m certain you’ll get this sorted - good luck

[HM-2]

I was going to suggest a Wiggins Clamp

[Escy]

ridds said:

Weld bead isn't tall enough, space behind the bead is too small, uneven height allows oil to seep through due to imperfect clamping.

Quick fix, a narrower clamp fully on the other side of the bead. Fully clean all oil from everywhere.

Long fix, extend pipe, increase bead height, wider clamp back on fully behind the bead.

Thanks, I did wonder if the clamp was too wide but It was fine for ages. I'll try a narrower clamp and see how I get on as a temporary measure.

MDifficult said:

The only other thought.. what’s the heat resistance of the contact adhesive? Could it be melting once you get up to temp, turning the adhesive into a lubricant?

As always, I marvel at your ingenuity so I’m certain you’ll get this sorted - good luck

Possibly but I only tried the contact adhesive once.

HM-2 said:

I was going to suggest a Wiggins Clamp

I'd love something like these. The boost pipes aren't easily accessible so a permanent solution like this would be good. I'm tempted to buy a tig welder so I can do aluminium.

[Escy]

I changed the boost pipe that kept popping off, left a bit more meat on it when I trimmed it to fit and it seems alright so far.

I'm aware it's hard on the car but I like flat foot shifting. Pretty much evey time I use it, I'm right at the 7200rpm rev limit. I made a shift from 4th to 5th the other day at 6000rpm and the clutch slipped, I hit the redline in 5th gear in a couple of seconds of full throttle. I've not had a clutch slip like that before. I'd need to see the logs to see exactly where a 6000rpm gearshift lands me but I know it's going to be where I'm making the most torque.

I'm currently running an Audi RS4 B7 clutch (the n/a V8 one), it's a LUK clutch. Rated at 367ft/lb I think so it's done really well, I expect I'm making around 550ft/lb. The pedal is really good, feels like a standard car, I'm reluctant to go for an upgrade that ruins the drivability. It's a 240mm disc, I'm considering trying out a 997 turbo clutch plate with my RS4 cover rather than ending up with some paddle clutch that's a sod to use.

The car is going to be in the Pistonheads 25th anniversary show that's coming up soon so I won't change it before then. I thought I'd try and tidy it up a bit. The hardware on my brake discs had gone rusty so I decided to replace them.

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I had a headlight bulb blow. Fitted some LED lights, huge difference at night time. Left is with one fitted, right it the original.

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[Escy]

I bought some carbon fiber Gemballa sill plates cheaply off ebay.



As my car is nothing to do with Gemballa I was hoping I'd easily be able to remove the logo but it's under the lacquer and I'm lazy.

Thought I might put a sticker over it. I went to on holiday last week to Spain, the plan was to email a few places in the UK to get them made but I was busy and forgot about it. That was until I noticed there was a printing place across the road from our apartment. I popped in there and with the help of Google translate got it all sorted. £25 euros and a day later it was sorted. Went with the Porsche + AUDI idea from the old race car someone posted up a few pages back but using the more modern fonts.

[Peanut Gallery]

I think that looks neat!

Hope you enjoyed your hols!

[Escy]

Thanks, I really did, it was much needed.

I decided to put the decals back on it, it was a last minute decision before attending the Pistonheads 25 year anniverasy show yesterday at Bicester Village. They had all the cars that had a Readers Ride video lined up next to a big screen which was cool. I thought the show was good, lots of interesting stuff around.

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The clutch is bad now so I won't be driving it again until that's sorted. I've ordered the parts I need but they'll be a few weeks.

[anonymous-user]

Good work, I'm not really a Porsche fan but that does look the business, I bet it's a riot to drive too!

[Don1]

Ah, that was yours, I did wonder.

[RM]

Planning to visit Cowbridge cars and coffee? September 24th, I know you visited once before but not sure if that was in the 986 precursor.

[Escy]

wormus said:

Good work, I'm not really a Porsche fan but that does look the business, I bet it's a riot to drive too!

Thanks. I think it stands out enough to catch your eye while still being fairly subtle. It's a brilliant drive, it really gets the adrenaline flowing when you get on it but even if it's just cruising around with the stereo cranked up I love driving it. I'm really pleased with it.

RM said:

Planning to visit Cowbridge cars and coffee? September 24th, I know you visited once before but not sure if that was in the 986 precursor.

I've been a few times in the 987 also. I'm on going this year. What are you going to be driving?

[Escy]

I bought some Hardrace track rod ends with bump steer compensation. I don't particularly like their stuff, they are very chunky, no adjustability and made from steel (the original parts are aluminium) so they weigh more. They are however the only vaguely sensibly priced option as they don't apply a Porsche specific tax. The other aftermarket options start at £500, they look much nicer products but sod spending that on track rod ends.

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Whilst fitting them I noticed a coolant leak from a front radiator hose. I knew they looked rough so it's not unexpected. This is a common 9x7 issue which requires dropping the front subframe and replacing all the front coolant cross over pipes as they will be seized into each other. I've ordered the parts.

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Since I had fitted the track rod ends I decided to lower the suspension a little bit more on the front end.

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[duncancallum]

This is awesome. Properly binged this.

The drain holes to stop them clogging can you put a split pin in them so the pin stops any debris

Idea is the pin rattles about and keeps the hole clear.

See the pick on a mg gearbox. They do it on them to stop clutch dust but principles the same

[ATM]

Escy said:

I'm currently running an Audi RS4 B7 clutch (the n/a V8 one), it's a LUK clutch. Rated at 367ft/lb I think so it's done really well, I expect I'm making around 550ft/lb. The pedal is really good, feels like a standard car, I'm reluctant to go for an upgrade that ruins the drivability. It's a 240mm disc, I'm considering trying out a 997 turbo clutch plate with my RS4 cover rather than ending up with some paddle clutch that's a sod to use.

What about a LWFW? My thinking is there would be less mass for the clutch to deal with so less energy to overcome. I have one and it makes the car feel much more peppy. A bit more difficult to drive but not overly so as its just getting off the line. I think that's the only negative with all other differences being positives.

[573]

Escy said:

Since I had fitted the track rod ends I decided to lower the suspension a little bit more on the front end.

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Looks a million times better.

[Escy]

duncancallum said:

This is awesome. Properly binged this.

The drain holes to stop them clogging can you put a split pin in them so the pin stops any debris

Idea is the pin rattles about and keeps the hole clear.

See the pick on a mg gearbox. They do it on them to stop clutch dust but principles the same

Thanks. I saw either on a forum or Facebook group that someone was 3D printing little domed covers that sit inside the drain tube stop the drains getting blocked. Next time I see them I'll buy some.

573 said:

Looks a million times better.

Thanks, only a small drop from where it was previously but it has made a difference to how it looks. I need to do the alignment now.

ATM said:

Escy said:

I'm currently running an Audi RS4 B7 clutch (the n/a V8 one), it's a LUK clutch. Rated at 367ft/lb I think so it's done really well, I expect I'm making around 550ft/lb. The pedal is really good, feels like a standard car, I'm reluctant to go for an upgrade that ruins the drivability. It's a 240mm disc, I'm considering trying out a 997 turbo clutch plate with my RS4 cover rather than ending up with some paddle clutch that's a sod to use.

What about a LWFW? My thinking is there would be less mass for the clutch to deal with so less energy to overcome. I have one and it makes the car feel much more peppy. A bit more difficult to drive but not overly so as its just getting off the line. I think that's the only negative with all other differences being positives.

I'm running a LWFW, it's a TTV Racing one that's for a 2.7t but designed to take a B7 RS4 clutch. It's a good idea as the B7 clutch can handle more power. What I've now discovered though is if you need an aftermarket clutch it's slim pickings compared to what's available for the B5 RS4. You're right, a LWFW makes a massive difference.

[Escy]

I'd made a decision on the clutch. I ordered a Sachs Performance pressure plate for a B7 RS4 to match my flywheel. I didn't like the look of the Sachs Performance clutch discs, they offer an organic which is rated to 363ft/lb and a ceramic paddle rated to 541ft/lb. They are solid discs rather than sprung, I'd rather sprung as I'm on a single mass flywheel and don't want juddering. I did ask a few places that sold them what the paddle is like for road use, the answers weren't exactly a glowing recommendation.

On the RS4 Facebook group, others were running the Sachs Performance pressure plate with discs from CG Motorsport. They had various different options. I liked the sound of their half rice, half chips offering. It's different materials on either side of the disc. Described on their site as "full face organic lining and ceramic performance material, giving a near standard drive feel." So I thought that paired up with the Sachs Performance pressure plate was the way to go.

CG then told me they have no B5 RS4 clutch discs available (they didn't list B7 RS4) but I could send my disc to them to be modified. So that was the new plan. The Sachs PP took 3 weeks to arrive, it came today so I pulled the gearbox off. The car is really easy to work on, especially compared to a standard Boxster. It didn't take me long.





Old clutch and flywheel off. I was expecting it to look worse than it does, it got to the point it was slipping on low boost.



I think the picture makes it look worse than it is, the surface feels ok. I did notice there's a shiny band on the inner edge of the clamping surface.



And corresponding marks on the clutch disc. I'm not sure if this tells me anything interesting or not?!



The new pressure plate. It's a different design, it's got a stepped section inside the clamping surface which interferes with the sprung clutch plate I have.





So that's my plan to send the disc off to CG Motorsport scuppered. I assume the guy's using this combo are on the B5 Sachs pressure plate and my B7 one is a different design. This puts me back at square one, the difference being the car is in bits now. It'll likely be another 3 weeks if I order a clutch disc from Sachs. Whilst the organic is rated for a lot less torque, I think it'd probably be ok. My car is lighter than an Audi and not 4wd so I think I'm a lot easier on the clutch, even with my penchant for flat foot shifting. One of the things I like the most about the car is it would pass for a standard Boxster when driving it normally. I'd rather take some torque out of it than have a clutch that ruins the way it drives.

CG Motorsport do a twin plate clutch with a flywheel. It looks a really nice bit of kit but I've heard some twin plate clutches sound horrific and I wouldn't want to take the risk on one as I won't be able to live with it if it's noisy. I saw on Facebook someone that bought one and took it straight back off due to the noise.