Phoenix from the flames - Porsche Boxster with an Audi 2.7T
Discussion
Fastdruid said:
I'm sure I read somewhere that the bolts were single use and should be replaced each time and some people had issues with driveshafts working loose when they had work done necessitating a drive shaft removal but had not replacing the bolts.
I believe these are the torque figures for them.
M8 bolt: 40 Nm
M10 bolt: 65 Nm
Note also that the hub bolt on some is also single use and should be replaced, different torque settings depending on which bolt/model though!
they are defiantately single use on BMWs I believe these are the torque figures for them.
M8 bolt: 40 Nm
M10 bolt: 65 Nm
Note also that the hub bolt on some is also single use and should be replaced, different torque settings depending on which bolt/model though!
5harp3y said:
they are defiantately single use on BMWs
The driveshaft to diff bolts are supposed to be changed each time on BMWs as you say. However main dealers don’t change them and I haven’t changed one in nearly 30 years of working on BMWs. I’ve never seen a BMW one fail/come loose. But, yes in a money no object world-new ones every time. 
Filters look like a worthwhile upgrade given the extra surface area of the new ones.
I upgraded the full suspension set up on my ‘01 986 2.7 over the late summer along with an oil change, new handbrake cables, rear disks & pads and still have braided brake hoses and 986s caliper/disk upgrade to fit on the front, new brake fluid then off for a full alignment check. Car is tucked up in the garage until the new year now as it takes me a while to do some of the work - you’d probably have it finished in one morning!
You certainly get to know the car working on it yourself and save £££ but some of the 18 year old seized bolts take some effort...
I upgraded the full suspension set up on my ‘01 986 2.7 over the late summer along with an oil change, new handbrake cables, rear disks & pads and still have braided brake hoses and 986s caliper/disk upgrade to fit on the front, new brake fluid then off for a full alignment check. Car is tucked up in the garage until the new year now as it takes me a while to do some of the work - you’d probably have it finished in one morning!
You certainly get to know the car working on it yourself and save £££ but some of the 18 year old seized bolts take some effort...
Driveshaft boots are effort on these as to get to the outer boots you need to remove the inner CV joint, messy job that's more involved that it should be, don't envy you on that one.
Once this is finally sorted and gets tuned I need to do a similar list of work. There is no play I can find in the suspension but the bushes squeak and it all feels a little tired so it's going to need a new set of suspension arms and an alignment.
Also need to do something with the front brakes, I'd ideally want to go one better than standard Boxster S front brakes, i've got a set of front 18z 6 pot front brakes from a Cayenne S I might try and fit. I think it's a good idea until I pick up a Cayenne brake disc, they feel about 5kg heavier per disc. I'd also need to fit 18's to use them (i've got a set of 3, keeping an eye out for a front wheel). If I did go that route i'd probably need to upgrade the master cylinder (it's never ending...)
Picture of one of my 18's over the Cayenne setup. Fills the wheel out nicely.
Once this is finally sorted and gets tuned I need to do a similar list of work. There is no play I can find in the suspension but the bushes squeak and it all feels a little tired so it's going to need a new set of suspension arms and an alignment.
Also need to do something with the front brakes, I'd ideally want to go one better than standard Boxster S front brakes, i've got a set of front 18z 6 pot front brakes from a Cayenne S I might try and fit. I think it's a good idea until I pick up a Cayenne brake disc, they feel about 5kg heavier per disc. I'd also need to fit 18's to use them (i've got a set of 3, keeping an eye out for a front wheel). If I did go that route i'd probably need to upgrade the master cylinder (it's never ending...)
Picture of one of my 18's over the Cayenne setup. Fills the wheel out nicely.
Those wheels & the Cayenne brakes look good and can imagine the braking power will be immense. I was in 2 minds about the Boxster S brake upgrade as I’m trying to keep the weight down but the larger brakes & drilled disks look great and work better than the standard 2.7 ones. I guess it’s becoming a bit like a Boxster “T” as I’m keeping it simple and light with some weight reduction and upgrades but also retain carpets, radio etc. It came as a basic 2.7 with cable operated heater controls, no air con and no traction control, no cruise, no variable speed wipers - and I love it! Proper analogue driving experience. I’ve fitted Bilstein B8’s with H&R springs, gt3 brake scoops and still have the brakes and a lighter set of 986.2 17 inc alloys to fit.
My daily is an old Saab 9-5 with a noobtune ECU running about 220bhp but it’s the more about the effortless low down torque. I like the reviness of the Boxster 2.7 but the V6tt you have, tuned to suit the Boxster would give the best of both.
My daily is an old Saab 9-5 with a noobtune ECU running about 220bhp but it’s the more about the effortless low down torque. I like the reviness of the Boxster 2.7 but the V6tt you have, tuned to suit the Boxster would give the best of both.
Sounds like you're putting together a fun car.
I'm struggling with this car lately, I feel like it's close to being ready for mapping but every time I have driven it lately I seem to have broken down. There was the driveshaft issue. After that there was the a problem with the earth strap for the battery, as I was driving I felt a quick dip in power and then it was ok, when I stopped the engine 20 minutes later the car was completely dead. To get the bonnet open I needed to use the emergency release cable. As i'm under the car fishing it out I noticed there is antifreeze leaking from a charge cooler pipe. It also broke down to varying degrees the next two times I went out in it there was an intermittent problem with the throttle body which I eventually traced to a bad solder joint.
Bumper off to sort out the charge cooler leak. I'm testing in winter and not running any boost but at the moment the coolant is staying cold so the early signs are good.
The low fluid light came on for my washer bottle, this is where I keep my water meth for the engine. I've not been using it and not noticed any leaks. Can't see any leaks when I took the bottle off so i'm a bit unsure where it's all gone (4 litres have gone over the last 4 months or so and the car has barely moved)
The car is in poor condition bodywork wise but one of the things I was thankful for was it was never damp inside, a damp convertible is a miserable place to be in the winter. Turns out has started leaking/
There is a puddle of water behind the driver's seat (better this side than the other side where the alarm module sits under the seat).
Trying to dry it out using wooden cat litter pellets that turn to sawdust as they soak up water. Have taken the roof off completely in the pursuit of the leak source, nothing obvious, all the drains run free
I've got the winter blues with it.
I'm struggling with this car lately, I feel like it's close to being ready for mapping but every time I have driven it lately I seem to have broken down. There was the driveshaft issue. After that there was the a problem with the earth strap for the battery, as I was driving I felt a quick dip in power and then it was ok, when I stopped the engine 20 minutes later the car was completely dead. To get the bonnet open I needed to use the emergency release cable. As i'm under the car fishing it out I noticed there is antifreeze leaking from a charge cooler pipe. It also broke down to varying degrees the next two times I went out in it there was an intermittent problem with the throttle body which I eventually traced to a bad solder joint.
Bumper off to sort out the charge cooler leak. I'm testing in winter and not running any boost but at the moment the coolant is staying cold so the early signs are good.
The low fluid light came on for my washer bottle, this is where I keep my water meth for the engine. I've not been using it and not noticed any leaks. Can't see any leaks when I took the bottle off so i'm a bit unsure where it's all gone (4 litres have gone over the last 4 months or so and the car has barely moved)
The car is in poor condition bodywork wise but one of the things I was thankful for was it was never damp inside, a damp convertible is a miserable place to be in the winter. Turns out has started leaking/
There is a puddle of water behind the driver's seat (better this side than the other side where the alarm module sits under the seat).
Trying to dry it out using wooden cat litter pellets that turn to sawdust as they soak up water. Have taken the roof off completely in the pursuit of the leak source, nothing obvious, all the drains run free
I've got the winter blues with it.
Yeah keep at it Escy. You’re bound to hit some snags on something so modified.
For your leak check the door membranes. Foam panels stuck into the inside of the door under the door cards.
If they’re shot water will get in and end up in the foot wells.
£50 each from Porsche unfortunately. The Porsche tax is strong on those.
Anyway keep at it. Maybe even have a bit of time off from it then attack it with a fresh head and a list of priorities. Good luck.
For your leak check the door membranes. Foam panels stuck into the inside of the door under the door cards.
If they’re shot water will get in and end up in the foot wells.
£50 each from Porsche unfortunately. The Porsche tax is strong on those.
Anyway keep at it. Maybe even have a bit of time off from it then attack it with a fresh head and a list of priorities. Good luck.
Edited by marky911 on Tuesday 17th December 23:49
It sounds like you've checked all the drains - I had this problem a couple of years ago after a heavy downpour and it turned out to be a plastic grommet someone had left loose in the rear hood roof folding area had perfectly fitted itself over the passenger side drain hole and caused water to run down under the rear bulkhead carpet and completely flood the module under the passenger seat in about 3cm of water.
I was lucky and managed to remove the unit and dry it all out and it still works.
From what you describe it definitely sounds like water is getting in from the rear - if the drain holes under the roof mechanism are both clear (put the roof half way down to access them) then there may be a leak in the roof/rear window?
I was lucky and managed to remove the unit and dry it all out and it still works.
From what you describe it definitely sounds like water is getting in from the rear - if the drain holes under the roof mechanism are both clear (put the roof half way down to access them) then there may be a leak in the roof/rear window?
One step at a time, each issue you fix you fix properly and soon there shouldn't be any problems and then you can enjoy the open road!
You have built a heck of a lot of car there, huge pat on the back, well done!
Re. the water / meth - if you try slightly pressurising the container would it show any leaks / and or stop evaporation as it no longer vented? - Also, could the injection be "working" by injecting thereby not showing any leaks? Yes, you would have to un-seal the lid when you start using it, but until you use it..
You have built a heck of a lot of car there, huge pat on the back, well done!
Re. the water / meth - if you try slightly pressurising the container would it show any leaks / and or stop evaporation as it no longer vented? - Also, could the injection be "working" by injecting thereby not showing any leaks? Yes, you would have to un-seal the lid when you start using it, but until you use it..
Dan, I've taken the roof completely off so I could remove the drip tray and inspect it. There is a small hole but it's high up and not likely to see much water, it was also dry behind it so I don't think that's the smoking gun I'm looking for.
Think I'll leave the carpet up and run a hose over it, see if that helps.
Peanut, good idea on pressurising the tank to try and show any leaks. It wouldn't take much to run the vent pipe to the scuttle and seal it when not in use if evaporation is the issue.
Think I'll leave the carpet up and run a hose over it, see if that helps.
Peanut, good idea on pressurising the tank to try and show any leaks. It wouldn't take much to run the vent pipe to the scuttle and seal it when not in use if evaporation is the issue.
Some top work done on this car, great thread.
I know from my own project cars that motivation can come and go in peaks and troughs, I've had a few months off from mine which has been good. I get motivation from looking at other peoples finished projects, plus it's worth taking stock and looking back over things to see how far you've come with things.
Just a thought, but how about getting another hard top for the car, would be a straight forward albeit expensive way to resolve the leak issue?
I know from my own project cars that motivation can come and go in peaks and troughs, I've had a few months off from mine which has been good. I get motivation from looking at other peoples finished projects, plus it's worth taking stock and looking back over things to see how far you've come with things.
Just a thought, but how about getting another hard top for the car, would be a straight forward albeit expensive way to resolve the leak issue?
I'd like another hardtop, I like the way they look on the car, makes them a bit different. Like you say, it might fix my water leak issue (it might not depending also). The guy I sold it to is local, he's on my Facebook and I noticed the hardtop wasn't on the Boxster when he sold it. I have considered trying to get it back. The issue is I seem to need pretty regular access to the engine bay and it's a 2 man job to get the roof on and off. If (when?) I get a problem while out in it I wouldn't be able to get into the engine bay on my tod. They also take up space storing them in the summer.
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