Phoenix from the flames - Porsche Boxster with an Audi 2.7T
Discussion
With the remote you can turn the power off when you want. I'll probably power mine off every night after I've used the car rather than let the battery run down at all (not sure a battery the size of mine at 11.8v would have enough guts to start it). The good thing is, with it automatically doing it when the voltage drops to 11.8v, if I forget to do it myself it'll save the battery.
CousinDupree said:
What a great idea, I could do with one of those!
It's a shame there is no way of re-programming the sleep mode, to cut in at a set voltage / couple of days, rather than a week or so. Or just putting the car straight into it by default.
The newer products are programmable (but only by the seller unfortunately):It's a shame there is no way of re-programming the sleep mode, to cut in at a set voltage / couple of days, rather than a week or so. Or just putting the car straight into it by default.
https://www.batterybrain.co.uk/shop/
(no connection, just a very happy customer!)
Escy,
I read your previous build and was gutted for you when it caught fire. I have just caught up with the whole new story, you are incredibly brave to give it another go, and then show the patience of a saint as things go wrong. Huge respect for you, I have enjoyed every page, sympathising along the way of course, I do not think I would have stayed the course, but it will be worth it in the end, keep going you are so nearly there!!
Piers
I read your previous build and was gutted for you when it caught fire. I have just caught up with the whole new story, you are incredibly brave to give it another go, and then show the patience of a saint as things go wrong. Huge respect for you, I have enjoyed every page, sympathising along the way of course, I do not think I would have stayed the course, but it will be worth it in the end, keep going you are so nearly there!!
Piers
Red Firecracker said:
CousinDupree said:
What a great idea, I could do with one of those!
It's a shame there is no way of re-programming the sleep mode, to cut in at a set voltage / couple of days, rather than a week or so. Or just putting the car straight into it by default.
The newer products are programmable (but only by the seller unfortunately):It's a shame there is no way of re-programming the sleep mode, to cut in at a set voltage / couple of days, rather than a week or so. Or just putting the car straight into it by default.
https://www.batterybrain.co.uk/shop/
(no connection, just a very happy customer!)
I meant the sleep mode that the Boxster has as part of the factory electronics.
I find the battery will still run flat when the Boxster goes into sleep mode.
I took the car out for a few pulls last night. It's a bit of a mixed bag as usual. I'm starting to feel more confidence in the car which is good. Topping up the gearbox oil has sorted out the noise I noticed before. I've been adjusting the settings for the boost solenoid and have managed to make a few pulls without hitting the boost cut. It looks like the new charge coolers are doing the business, no huge spikes in air temperature like I had before. Temp wise I was seeing around 35-45 degrees, the more back to back pulls I do the higher this is likely to rise but it's a decent starting point, I was seeing over 80 degrees on the dyno.
The downsides are the arse dyno (backed up by the performance calculator on the ECU) have me thinking it's way down on the expected power for the boost it's running. There is ignition timing to put back in but I don't think that alone will make up the deficit. I think i'm missing something wrong on the ECU set-up side of things.
Other downsides are the meth has all leaked out again! Going to have to just fit a separate tank in the boot and be done with it.
Also, when looking under it this morning there were coolant drops on the underside. The coolant is from a jubilee clamp on the charge cooler system, as it's been put through it's paces the pressure has risen and it's started to leak a little.
A K&N has taken a smack so I need to re-think what i'm going to do about locating them. I've switched back to the smaller filters I was using before as a temporary measure until I work out what I should do.
I took the car out for a few pulls last night. It's a bit of a mixed bag as usual. I'm starting to feel more confidence in the car which is good. Topping up the gearbox oil has sorted out the noise I noticed before. I've been adjusting the settings for the boost solenoid and have managed to make a few pulls without hitting the boost cut. It looks like the new charge coolers are doing the business, no huge spikes in air temperature like I had before. Temp wise I was seeing around 35-45 degrees, the more back to back pulls I do the higher this is likely to rise but it's a decent starting point, I was seeing over 80 degrees on the dyno.
The downsides are the arse dyno (backed up by the performance calculator on the ECU) have me thinking it's way down on the expected power for the boost it's running. There is ignition timing to put back in but I don't think that alone will make up the deficit. I think i'm missing something wrong on the ECU set-up side of things.
Other downsides are the meth has all leaked out again! Going to have to just fit a separate tank in the boot and be done with it.
Also, when looking under it this morning there were coolant drops on the underside. The coolant is from a jubilee clamp on the charge cooler system, as it's been put through it's paces the pressure has risen and it's started to leak a little.
A K&N has taken a smack so I need to re-think what i'm going to do about locating them. I've switched back to the smaller filters I was using before as a temporary measure until I work out what I should do.
Escy said:
The downsides are the arse dyno (backed up by the performance calculator on the ECU) have me thinking it's way down on the expected power for the boost it's running. There is ignition timing to put back in but I don't think that alone will make up the deficit. I think i'm missing something wrong on the ECU set-up side of things.
Have you tried a run without the filters? They don't look big enough to me.I think you may end up having to reposition those filters higher as Sod’s law is they will get hit by something.
There is always the freak deep puddle as well just when you have forgotten they are down there.
Keep going, I think we all admire your tenacity.
There is always the freak deep puddle as well just when you have forgotten they are down there.
Keep going, I think we all admire your tenacity.
Edited by Bright Halo on Sunday 3rd May 15:15
wormus said:
Have you tried a run without the filters? They don't look big enough to me.
They aren't big enough. I haven't run without filters but might give it a try.Bright Halo said:
I think you may end up having to reposition those filters higher as Sod’s law is they will get hit by something.
There is always the freak deep puddle as well just when you have forgotten they are down there.
Keep going, I think we all admire your tenacity.
Yeah, I know it's dodgy. Where the turbos are, my only option is downwards as they sit directly bellow the exhaust manifolds and the charge coolers are in the way.There is always the freak deep puddle as well just when you have forgotten they are down there.
Keep going, I think we all admire your tenacity.
shalmaneser said:
Those filters down there freak me out. Such a dirty place to have them. Can you not run some flexi hose to somewhere better? What about in front of the rear wheel well?
I did look at that area, there is a suspension arm that takes up most of the space, there was not enough room for the K&N filters I have (had) there, I've been looking around to see if I can find different shape air filters, I could do with something that's a cuboid shape rather than the traditional cone but it still needs to retain a round fitting for a pipe. I've not found anything like that yet. Escy said:
wormus said:
Have you tried a run without the filters? They don't look big enough to me.
They aren't big enough. I haven't run without filters but might give it a try.Fastdruid said:
I have to be honest, even for a short run I'd not want to run without filters with the intakes down there. You're asking to ingest something and ruin the engine.
Absolutely! The amount of dust and grit kicked up under the car by the tyres is quite startling. That’s grit central under there so any filtration is a must. The surface area of those filters isn’t too bad actually IMO. 500hp Mitsubishi GTO’s run on a single K&N about the same size as one of yours, however the intake size on yours is significantly smaller. We run a single 4.5” adapter to feed a 500hp 3.0L V6 with a similar surface area to one of your filters, by that logic I would think 2 filters with half the intake size each would net the same result. Visually yours look bigger than 2.25” intake throat so in a long winded roundabout way I reckon both filters combined are more than enough for the power level you are running .EDIT... memory failed me, it’s a single 4.5” intake so have amended numbers above
Edited by fastbikes76 on Monday 4th May 09:56
Fastdruid said:
I have to be honest, even for a short run I'd not want to run without filters with the intakes down there. You're asking to ingest something and ruin the engine.
I was suggesting a short run in the dry or even put it back on the dyno. One thing sure to ruin performance is lack of air flow. I do agree, long term I’d not keep the filters there, all it takes is a deep puddle and it’s game over.If I was to make a run without filters I was would move the intake pipes higher up into the engine compartment.
fastbikes76 said:
Absolutely! The amount of dust and grit kicked up under the car by the tyres is quite startling. That’s grit central under there so any filtration is a must. The surface area of those filters isn’t too bad actually IMO. 500hp Mitsubishi GTO’s run on a single K&N about the same size as one of yours, however the intake size on yours is significantly smaller. We run a single 4.5” adapter to feed a 500hp 3.0L V6 with a similar surface area to one of your filters, by that logic I would think 2 filters with half the intake size each would net the same result. Visually yours look bigger than 2.25” intake throat so in a long winded roundabout way I reckon both filters combined are more than enough for the power level you are running .
EDIT... memory failed me, it’s a single 4.5” intake so have amended numbers above
My intake pipes are 2.5". I was looking into pipe sizes before, my 2 x 2.5" pipes actually flow less than a single 3.5". When you're saying the filter size isn't too bad I assume you're referring to the know redundant K&N's rather than the black Ramair foam jobbies on it at the moment?EDIT... memory failed me, it’s a single 4.5” intake so have amended numbers above
Edited by fastbikes76 on Monday 4th May 09:56
Something strange was happening with both remotes on my Battery Brain. I'd put a new battery in both fobs and they were draining to flat within a couple of days, not sure why. Rather than send the whole unit back and get a replacement I bought another remote that can clone the codes. This seems to be working fine now.
These are the tiny air filters I was using temporarily.
I was looking around for air filters in odd shapes so I could try and figure something out. I came across some from Ramair that are marketed as being for Formula 3.
I'm moving the filter's to go inbetween the bottom brace plate and the suspension carrier braces. The filters are still quite low but that should give them a chance of getting colder air, there's no chance of them being damaged here. The bottom brace has some rubber scoops to draw air up, for some airflow over the gearbox I assume. I've put some holes into the the sides of it to allow some better airflow to the filters.
This is how they look fitted. Happy with that, have a nice large surface area now, should still get decent airflow but won't get damaged.
These are the tiny air filters I was using temporarily.
I was looking around for air filters in odd shapes so I could try and figure something out. I came across some from Ramair that are marketed as being for Formula 3.
I'm moving the filter's to go inbetween the bottom brace plate and the suspension carrier braces. The filters are still quite low but that should give them a chance of getting colder air, there's no chance of them being damaged here. The bottom brace has some rubber scoops to draw air up, for some airflow over the gearbox I assume. I've put some holes into the the sides of it to allow some better airflow to the filters.
This is how they look fitted. Happy with that, have a nice large surface area now, should still get decent airflow but won't get damaged.
Looking good!
- Very random, but a friend was getting through a remote battery every 3 weeks, with the last week spent pressing the remote against the car before it would work - he then moved onto a Duracell or Energiser battery, and . .well, that was a week before lockdown and I have not heard from him at all..
- Very random, but a friend was getting through a remote battery every 3 weeks, with the last week spent pressing the remote against the car before it would work - he then moved onto a Duracell or Energiser battery, and . .well, that was a week before lockdown and I have not heard from him at all..
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