Z4 2.0i sdrive with a tuning box.
Discussion
Julian Thompson said:
That’s a great review thanks for sharing! 75hp from a remap is an amazing percentage gain.
How does the lag feel?
Not really noticing any, throttle response is almost instant especially in sport mode.How does the lag feel?
These engine come from the factory in different states of tune in the Z4, the 18i, 20i & 28i are all the same 2.0L 4 cylinder turbo engine just in different states of tune.
Basically the remap take both the 18i and 20i up to 28i power levels.
DevonLad said:
VSKeith said:
Nice. I do like Z4's.
Any hit on the insurance, OP?
I'm going to be brutally honest here, I only got the car back a few hours ago and in my excitement I totally forgot about it. I will be on the phone to them first thing in the morning when I will let you know if it has increased and by how much.Any hit on the insurance, OP?
VSKeith said:
That's very honest of you and very presumptuous of me to assume you'd done it, would be great to know though
No problem at all, it's a question that gets asked a lot here on PH although it's usually aimed at a youngster with a V8 engine transplant into a Corsa(still says 1.0 on the V5 bruv, cheaper on the insurance innit). I've nothing to hide. I'm 52yo will 3 cars all insured in my name on 3 seperate policies all with max ncb and I'm an hgv driver by trade, I live in an insurance favourable postcode so I hope that any increase will be minimal if at all.The Z4 is insured through Ageas so I might take a quick look at their T&C's.
I suppose worst case scenario is they refuse to continue cover and terminate the policy. Time will tell.
DevonLad said:
Not really noticing any, throttle response is almost instant especially in sport mode.
These engine come from the factory in different states of tune in the Z4, the 18i, 20i & 28i are all the same 2.0L 4 cylinder turbo engine just in different states of tune.
Basically the remap take both the 18i and 20i up to 28i power levels.
Interesting, so you could buy a 18 but get the power of a 28 with relative ease.These engine come from the factory in different states of tune in the Z4, the 18i, 20i & 28i are all the same 2.0L 4 cylinder turbo engine just in different states of tune.
Basically the remap take both the 18i and 20i up to 28i power levels.
How much was the map?
Exhaust next? This claims 280bhp with that and a map.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2020...
This seems cheap for a base project, especially with a load of work done, wonder what prompted the sale after such a spend?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2020...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2020...
This seems cheap for a base project, especially with a load of work done, wonder what prompted the sale after such a spend?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2020...
DevonLad said:
I'm thinking I would like to increase the frequency of my oil changes, quick question. Is the recommended oil still applicable on the remapped engine or should I use a different grade? If so which one?
Use the same grade. You probably know all this but:Say you have a 5w30 - that is an oil with a “5” grade when cold pouring it. The 30 means it is rated at “30” in respect of its resistance to thinning as it heats. The “5” and the “30” are on different scales and are not related to each other. So for example say you have a 10w40 - that’s a thicker oil because it’s a “10” not a “5” weight but also it has an better resistance to thinning because it’s a “40”.
When you think about it therefore, the oil delivery design of the engine is pre specified by the engineer who built it and so the best thing mostly is to stay within those guidelines and just adjust the frequency and quality of your changes. In the case of cars operated at wildly different temperatures - such as perhaps a car driven in a hot climate vs one driven in a cold climate - you’d tend to find that the local manufacturer representative would have already made the necessary changes to the vehicle handbook to make allowances for that and so again, sticking to the “book” is the best plan.
Edited to add - get the best API spec you can and stick to oils that have had approvals transferred by BMW on their appropriate spec.
The api spec is a series of letters that are backwards compatible. So if the manufacturer requires “SD CF” oil that means “S” (spark ignition - petrol engines), “D” (approval) then “C” (compression ignition - Diesel engines), “F” approval.
So an “SM CF” API oil is compatible with cars that need “SD CF” because M comes after D. But not the other way around.
Hope that makes sense. I like the Millers oils personally because the specs are clear and easy to read and the price is good for high quality product.
Edited by Julian Thompson on Saturday 4th July 16:39
Edited by Julian Thompson on Saturday 4th July 16:40
Just to add the z4 is the easiest car to change the oil on also. The filter is just a drop in on the top and there is a little plastic door underneath that you open with a half turn clip to reveal the (plastic) sump plug. Here we go (I always do a video of oil changes to prove it really happened!):
As you can see from this pic the bmw filter comes with the o rings and a new sump plug.
As you can see from this pic the bmw filter comes with the o rings and a new sump plug.
Edited by Julian Thompson on Saturday 4th July 16:50
cerb4.5lee said:
VSKeith said:
4.3s - that's a useful increase in go!
It certainly is! It is making me want to strap a turbo to my 370Z now! 
The 5.5 seconds that does it in seems very limp in comparison for sure. I'd be well chuffed with 4.3 seconds.
Julian Thompson said:
DevonLad said:
I'm thinking I would like to increase the frequency of my oil changes, quick question. Is the recommended oil still applicable on the remapped engine or should I use a different grade? If so which one?
Use the same grade. You probably know all this but:Say you have a 5w30 - that is an oil with a “5” grade when cold pouring it. The 30 means it is rated at “30” in respect of its resistance to thinning as it heats. The “5” and the “30” are on different scales and are not related to each other. So for example say you have a 10w40 - that’s a thicker oil because it’s a “10” not a “5” weight but also it has an better resistance to thinning because it’s a “40”.
When you think about it therefore, the oil delivery design of the engine is pre specified by the engineer who built it and so the best thing mostly is to stay within those guidelines and just adjust the frequency and quality of your changes. In the case of cars operated at wildly different temperatures - such as perhaps a car driven in a hot climate vs one driven in a cold climate - you’d tend to find that the local manufacturer representative would have already made the necessary changes to the vehicle handbook to make allowances for that and so again, sticking to the “book” is the best plan.
Edited to add - get the best API spec you can and stick to oils that have had approvals transferred by BMW on their appropriate spec.
The api spec is a series of letters that are backwards compatible. So if the manufacturer requires “SD CF” oil that means “S” (spark ignition - petrol engines), “D” (approval) then “C” (compression ignition - Diesel engines), “F” approval.
So an “SM CF” API oil is compatible with cars that need “SD CF” because M comes after D. But not the other way around.
Hope that makes sense. I like the Millers oils personally because the specs are clear and easy to read and the price is good for high quality product.
Edited by Julian Thompson on Saturday 4th July 16:39
Edited by Julian Thompson on Saturday 4th July 16:40
Order Details:
Product(s):
Product: XF Longlife C3 5w30 Engine oil - 5 Litres
Price: £29.12
Product: XF Longlife C3 5w30 Engine Oil - 1 Litre
Price: £9.96
Order Total:
Goods Net: £43.66
Delivery Net: FREE
Sub Total: £43.66
VAT: £8.74
Total Paid: £52.40
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