1979 Mercedes 450 SLC
Discussion
Taking one's car to a true team of experts results in a long list of things that should be attended to.
Might look worrying but I was frankly thrilled to be told that the bulkhead and main structure is holding up well. Indeed the bulkhead is slathered in sealant. Needless to say this news has saved me a small fortune over the next few years. The following is being placed into 2 lists - one to be completed as soon as possible, one to be addressed as time allows over the coming year. Thanks to Edward for getting truly under the skin of the car.
Grab a coffee, a big one, and take a read and try not to think about your own cars as you are reading:
NSF side light in operative
NSF dip beam inoperative
No rear fog lamps or tell-tale on the knob, plus the knob comes off in your hand
Knobs missing from the controls to the dash vents
Sunroof inoperative
NS windscreen wiper clip broken (secured with tape)
Centre console wood trim loose
Wood trim delaminated
Car pulls to right when driving
Pulls to right when braking
Vibration when driving (engine mounts, subframe mounts, exhaust mount see points later, plus tyres are old)
Heater blower not working and motor worn out & disconnected
Corrosion to NSF wing above headlamp
OS headlamp reflector corroded
Rear screen delaminated at base
Boot badge loose
Rear lamp gaskets leaking
Rear chrome plinth gasket above lights poor and bodged
Boot rubber seal incomplete (causing fumes to enter the car)
All shock absorbers weak
A/C belt missing and A/C inoperative
Battery hold down clamp missing
Various vacuum hoses disconnected/plugged
Engine coolant very dirty and weak
Air cleaner mounting broken
Engine oil dirty
Wiring to cold start injector and thermo time switch poorly repaired
Engine bay bulkhead insulation shrunk
Bulkhead plenum cover broken
Bulkhead chamber heavily undersealed but appears ok - checked from inside where possible - surface corrosion but no holes evident
OSF brake calliper locking tabs not secured
NSF brake calliper locking tabs not fitted
Slight play in both front and both rear wheel bearings
Engine mounts weak/collapsed
Front subframe mountings weak
Radiator leaking
Engine oil cooler lower union has been cross-threaded/leaking
A/C condensor damaged
NSF & OSF anti roll bar mounts have been bent/repaired
Fluid on steering box - possibly from engine above
Column to steering box coupling in poor condition
All lower wishbone bushes perished but no movement - Bolts were loose! We have tightened these up
NS & OS track rods misaligned
Transmission oil leak - cooler pipes to transmission seals
Gear linkage bush worn
Engine temperature low - failed thermostat
Gearbox mounting weak/split and one bolt missing from bracket
Non genuine exhaust fitted - hard mount in centre that probably causing some of the vibration. Rear mounting rubbers perished
Rubber fuel pipes in fuel pump pack perished/cracked
OS inner CV boot leaking (previously repaired incorrectly)
OS chrome sill trim secured by cable tie
Rear brake pads very low (85% worn)
NSR brake pad retaining pin incorrect (too short)
OSF brake calliper outer piston partially seized
NSF brake calliper outer piston seized
Front brake pads unevenly worn (due to above)
Front discs corroded (not serious at this stage)
One bolt in NSR wheel has thread stripped
Remove cam covers to check timing chain stretch, inspect camshafts and sprockets. We believe the engine has been apart before and the chain has been replaced. Chain stretch is 8 degrees which is within tolerance. There is some wear to cam sprockets but not excessive. Camshafts appear in good condition.
Engine oil leak - this is coming from the OS cam cover gasket. Mating surface on the head is damaged (possibly dropped when engine apart?). We may be able to repair the mating surface in situ and replace the gasket to cure the leak.
<Edited to remove expired picture link>
Might look worrying but I was frankly thrilled to be told that the bulkhead and main structure is holding up well. Indeed the bulkhead is slathered in sealant. Needless to say this news has saved me a small fortune over the next few years. The following is being placed into 2 lists - one to be completed as soon as possible, one to be addressed as time allows over the coming year. Thanks to Edward for getting truly under the skin of the car.
Grab a coffee, a big one, and take a read and try not to think about your own cars as you are reading:
NSF side light in operative
NSF dip beam inoperative
No rear fog lamps or tell-tale on the knob, plus the knob comes off in your hand
Knobs missing from the controls to the dash vents
Sunroof inoperative
NS windscreen wiper clip broken (secured with tape)
Centre console wood trim loose
Wood trim delaminated
Car pulls to right when driving
Pulls to right when braking
Vibration when driving (engine mounts, subframe mounts, exhaust mount see points later, plus tyres are old)
Heater blower not working and motor worn out & disconnected
Corrosion to NSF wing above headlamp
OS headlamp reflector corroded
Rear screen delaminated at base
Boot badge loose
Rear lamp gaskets leaking
Rear chrome plinth gasket above lights poor and bodged
Boot rubber seal incomplete (causing fumes to enter the car)
All shock absorbers weak
A/C belt missing and A/C inoperative
Battery hold down clamp missing
Various vacuum hoses disconnected/plugged
Engine coolant very dirty and weak
Air cleaner mounting broken
Engine oil dirty
Wiring to cold start injector and thermo time switch poorly repaired
Engine bay bulkhead insulation shrunk
Bulkhead plenum cover broken
Bulkhead chamber heavily undersealed but appears ok - checked from inside where possible - surface corrosion but no holes evident
OSF brake calliper locking tabs not secured
NSF brake calliper locking tabs not fitted
Slight play in both front and both rear wheel bearings
Engine mounts weak/collapsed
Front subframe mountings weak
Radiator leaking
Engine oil cooler lower union has been cross-threaded/leaking
A/C condensor damaged
NSF & OSF anti roll bar mounts have been bent/repaired
Fluid on steering box - possibly from engine above
Column to steering box coupling in poor condition
All lower wishbone bushes perished but no movement - Bolts were loose! We have tightened these up
NS & OS track rods misaligned
Transmission oil leak - cooler pipes to transmission seals
Gear linkage bush worn
Engine temperature low - failed thermostat
Gearbox mounting weak/split and one bolt missing from bracket
Non genuine exhaust fitted - hard mount in centre that probably causing some of the vibration. Rear mounting rubbers perished
Rubber fuel pipes in fuel pump pack perished/cracked
OS inner CV boot leaking (previously repaired incorrectly)
OS chrome sill trim secured by cable tie
Rear brake pads very low (85% worn)
NSR brake pad retaining pin incorrect (too short)
OSF brake calliper outer piston partially seized
NSF brake calliper outer piston seized
Front brake pads unevenly worn (due to above)
Front discs corroded (not serious at this stage)
One bolt in NSR wheel has thread stripped
Remove cam covers to check timing chain stretch, inspect camshafts and sprockets. We believe the engine has been apart before and the chain has been replaced. Chain stretch is 8 degrees which is within tolerance. There is some wear to cam sprockets but not excessive. Camshafts appear in good condition.
Engine oil leak - this is coming from the OS cam cover gasket. Mating surface on the head is damaged (possibly dropped when engine apart?). We may be able to repair the mating surface in situ and replace the gasket to cure the leak.
<Edited to remove expired picture link>
Edited by paulyv on Wednesday 26th August 10:26
I have received word that within the next couple of weeks the SLC should be ready for collection from the rather nice people at Edward Hall.
Budget demanded that only half of the list above was completed and I believe I still won't have a fully working heater system upon collection, something I will notice far more when I am no longer being choked by dense exhaust fumes at junctions. Not to get ahead of myself but it'll be going back in later in the year to have the dash out and those pesky heater controls properly connected.
It's been 3 months now and I've really missed driving around feeling like Alan Whicker or some such equally admirably coiffured celeb from the early 80's.
Once I clamber back in and head home I shall be sure to post the full list of what has been done and report back on how different it feels/doesn't feel as a result of my hefty investment*.
Budget demanded that only half of the list above was completed and I believe I still won't have a fully working heater system upon collection, something I will notice far more when I am no longer being choked by dense exhaust fumes at junctions. Not to get ahead of myself but it'll be going back in later in the year to have the dash out and those pesky heater controls properly connected.
It's been 3 months now and I've really missed driving around feeling like Alan Whicker or some such equally admirably coiffured celeb from the early 80's.
Once I clamber back in and head home I shall be sure to post the full list of what has been done and report back on how different it feels/doesn't feel as a result of my hefty investment*.
- I might not know what the word 'investment' actually means.
Greetings from abroad. Currently wending my way towards the Hungarian Grand Prix this weekend, albeit not in the SLC of course. You might recall it went into Edward Hall back in April, the result being the opinion that I had a solid car, albeit one which had been overlooked for a spell.
Received word that the car is ready to collect after much time being spent on, in and over it.
Let's have a look at the long list of parts, followed by the work that took up the 45.5 hours of labour.
2 Bushing
1 Thermostat
2 Brake Pads
1 Cap
1 Vale cover gasket
1 Brake pad wear indicator
4 Screw
1 Mann oil filter
1 Litre brake fluid
8 Litre 10w/40 oil
1.5 Litre 80x/90 axle oil
1 Boot seal
2 Front brake calipers
2 Rubber buffers
1 Subframe bushing kit
1 Roadwheel bolt
1 Rear brake pad retainer pin
2 Propshaft joints
2 Engine support
1 Oil filter
1 Transmission sump gasket
1 Fuel system hose
1 Fuel system hose
10 Seal ring
4.5 Litres antifreeze
8 Litres transmission fluid
4 16mm Hose bands
3 22mm Hose bands
4 M12 ID Copper seals
2 14100 Seals
2 CV boot/Drivshaft gaiter bands
1 Radiator Recore and test
1 Brake master cylinder
1 Brake pad set
0.5 Litre brake fluid
1 Cermaic fuse
1 H4 Bulb
1 N233 Bulb
1 MOT
45.5 hours Labour, description:
Remove o/s valve cover and carry out a rework repair of damage to cylinder head rear corner, and valve cover face.
Replace worn front sub-frame bushings.
Remove gear shifter - link arm and replace worn out bushes x 2.
Replace failed thermostat in cooling system.
Remove radiator for overhaul.
Renew engine oil and filter.
Renew transmission fluid and filtration.
Replace worn rear brake pads and fit correct retaining pin.
Replace one damaged road wheel bolt.
Renew both engine mountings.
Replace broken air filter rubber mounts.
Drain rear axle and renew gear oil.
Fit new boot seal - partially missing.
Renew engine coolant.
Fit new front brake pads and wear indicator wires
Fit new front brake calipers.
Bleed brakes after renewing brake fluid.
Overhaul fuel pump pack hoses under vehicle.
Renew hose bands and copper seals.
Remove trans., cross member and exhaust heat shields, to access propshaft
Remove propshaft and replace front and rear flex discs.
Repack rear inner CV joints of both drive shafts with new CV lith-moly grease.
Secure boot/gaiters with new bands.
Straighten out heat shields and re-secure properly with correct screws.
Refit original central exhaust mount. Previously loose and insecure.
Fit radiator, fill with water only, as to run up engine to temperature, prior to flushing corrosion from cooling system.
Carry out multiple flushes with water of cooling system until clear. Re-antifreeze vehicle.
Fit customer supplied heater fan motor and test.
Carry out improvised test and isolate fan motor, due to broken control switches in car.
Replace leaking brake master cylinder, clean out reservoir, replenish brake fluid and bleed car again.
Carry out initial road test of vehicle to check brakes and check for any leaks from other repairs.
All ok.
I should have a reliable vehicle after that lot, although my current financial limitations mean I will have to wait a few months to get the heating, ventilation, vacuum and air con systems sorted as it's going to require some dash-out maintenance. I will get a quote for that, and the issue with a slightly delaminated rear screen when I visit the 'car spa' to collect the SLC.
I have rather forgotten what it is like to drive but the list suggests I should be able to confidently pedal it on our open roads.
Received word that the car is ready to collect after much time being spent on, in and over it.
Let's have a look at the long list of parts, followed by the work that took up the 45.5 hours of labour.
2 Bushing
1 Thermostat
2 Brake Pads
1 Cap
1 Vale cover gasket
1 Brake pad wear indicator
4 Screw
1 Mann oil filter
1 Litre brake fluid
8 Litre 10w/40 oil
1.5 Litre 80x/90 axle oil
1 Boot seal
2 Front brake calipers
2 Rubber buffers
1 Subframe bushing kit
1 Roadwheel bolt
1 Rear brake pad retainer pin
2 Propshaft joints
2 Engine support
1 Oil filter
1 Transmission sump gasket
1 Fuel system hose
1 Fuel system hose
10 Seal ring
4.5 Litres antifreeze
8 Litres transmission fluid
4 16mm Hose bands
3 22mm Hose bands
4 M12 ID Copper seals
2 14100 Seals
2 CV boot/Drivshaft gaiter bands
1 Radiator Recore and test
1 Brake master cylinder
1 Brake pad set
0.5 Litre brake fluid
1 Cermaic fuse
1 H4 Bulb
1 N233 Bulb
1 MOT
45.5 hours Labour, description:
Remove o/s valve cover and carry out a rework repair of damage to cylinder head rear corner, and valve cover face.
Replace worn front sub-frame bushings.
Remove gear shifter - link arm and replace worn out bushes x 2.
Replace failed thermostat in cooling system.
Remove radiator for overhaul.
Renew engine oil and filter.
Renew transmission fluid and filtration.
Replace worn rear brake pads and fit correct retaining pin.
Replace one damaged road wheel bolt.
Renew both engine mountings.
Replace broken air filter rubber mounts.
Drain rear axle and renew gear oil.
Fit new boot seal - partially missing.
Renew engine coolant.
Fit new front brake pads and wear indicator wires
Fit new front brake calipers.
Bleed brakes after renewing brake fluid.
Overhaul fuel pump pack hoses under vehicle.
Renew hose bands and copper seals.
Remove trans., cross member and exhaust heat shields, to access propshaft
Remove propshaft and replace front and rear flex discs.
Repack rear inner CV joints of both drive shafts with new CV lith-moly grease.
Secure boot/gaiters with new bands.
Straighten out heat shields and re-secure properly with correct screws.
Refit original central exhaust mount. Previously loose and insecure.
Fit radiator, fill with water only, as to run up engine to temperature, prior to flushing corrosion from cooling system.
Carry out multiple flushes with water of cooling system until clear. Re-antifreeze vehicle.
Fit customer supplied heater fan motor and test.
Carry out improvised test and isolate fan motor, due to broken control switches in car.
Replace leaking brake master cylinder, clean out reservoir, replenish brake fluid and bleed car again.
Carry out initial road test of vehicle to check brakes and check for any leaks from other repairs.
All ok.
I should have a reliable vehicle after that lot, although my current financial limitations mean I will have to wait a few months to get the heating, ventilation, vacuum and air con systems sorted as it's going to require some dash-out maintenance. I will get a quote for that, and the issue with a slightly delaminated rear screen when I visit the 'car spa' to collect the SLC.
I have rather forgotten what it is like to drive but the list suggests I should be able to confidently pedal it on our open roads.
Back in the saddle again.
I collected the car from Edward Hall on Friday immediately prior to a flight up to Edinburgh. It was great to see Edward again and they have done a great job on the old thing. I wonder if it is coincidence that the week I paid my outstanding bill they bought a new ramp and are expanding their facilities. EH has some wonderful cars in at the moment and if you are at all interested the place is well worth a visit when near Oxford. He told me that the LHD manual 450SLC that had been on their website for some time is now sold and is going to be converted to a rally car.
Back to the car. It drives noticeably better, although, as Edward readily pointed out, it looks exactly the same, which is a shame considering how much I have just spent on it
Add to that the fact that there remain a number of outstanding issues which I could not afford to fix:
The vacuum system is all out of whack
None of the heating controls work, nor does the fan despite having a new one fitted
It needs a refresh of the shock absorbers
There's a small leak into the boot via a delaminated rear screen
The interior wood needs relaminating
Timing chain needs changing
Several other smaller niggles
All of this will have to wait until winter as I don't have the funds to plough into it right now, and yet I was thrilled to be back behind the wheel of the car which now drives very differently, doesn't leak oil and doesn't try to gas me whenever I stop at a light or open the window. It's a much more pleasant place to be.
Despite the first refill of the tank being at a BP where standard unleaded was being peddled at a laughable 1.48 a litre I have a few road trips to plan after the summer in that short 2-month period when I can drive it without heating or a fan.
As a sign from the universe that my expenditure wasn't entirely in vain, the moment I parked up this afternoon a neighbour I had not met before came out and offered me 15k for the car. No dice stranger!
I collected the car from Edward Hall on Friday immediately prior to a flight up to Edinburgh. It was great to see Edward again and they have done a great job on the old thing. I wonder if it is coincidence that the week I paid my outstanding bill they bought a new ramp and are expanding their facilities. EH has some wonderful cars in at the moment and if you are at all interested the place is well worth a visit when near Oxford. He told me that the LHD manual 450SLC that had been on their website for some time is now sold and is going to be converted to a rally car.
Back to the car. It drives noticeably better, although, as Edward readily pointed out, it looks exactly the same, which is a shame considering how much I have just spent on it
Add to that the fact that there remain a number of outstanding issues which I could not afford to fix:
The vacuum system is all out of whack
None of the heating controls work, nor does the fan despite having a new one fitted
It needs a refresh of the shock absorbers
There's a small leak into the boot via a delaminated rear screen
The interior wood needs relaminating
Timing chain needs changing
Several other smaller niggles
All of this will have to wait until winter as I don't have the funds to plough into it right now, and yet I was thrilled to be back behind the wheel of the car which now drives very differently, doesn't leak oil and doesn't try to gas me whenever I stop at a light or open the window. It's a much more pleasant place to be.
Despite the first refill of the tank being at a BP where standard unleaded was being peddled at a laughable 1.48 a litre I have a few road trips to plan after the summer in that short 2-month period when I can drive it without heating or a fan.
As a sign from the universe that my expenditure wasn't entirely in vain, the moment I parked up this afternoon a neighbour I had not met before came out and offered me 15k for the car. No dice stranger!
80sMatchbox said:
A lovely car! I've always had a soft spot for these.
It's probably as I'm of a vintage when I remember seeing these on the road when they were new and nearly new.
At the time, I was living in South Africa. These were the best Mercedes that you could buy, and even with the sunshine, there were definitely more SLC's around than SL's.
I think it's the "not trying too hard" look that they have that made(makes) them super cool.
Thank you. This very one seemingly worked its way over from South Africa in 2002 so has some history I will never know about.It's probably as I'm of a vintage when I remember seeing these on the road when they were new and nearly new.
At the time, I was living in South Africa. These were the best Mercedes that you could buy, and even with the sunshine, there were definitely more SLC's around than SL's.
I think it's the "not trying too hard" look that they have that made(makes) them super cool.
r129sl said:
I may have an email for Strela. I hope all is well.
All is well, thank you. Looking forward to getting the heating and vacuum sorted at the end of the year, but happy trundling around the country raising BP's share price.No need to get in touch with Strela, but it would be nice to have his contact details in case I have any SL questions - I may be making an assumption but I would be surprised if he was concerned that I had it. Happy to PM you or you to PM me if possible.
A pleasant run out to Hitchin this weekend for my sisters birthday...seemed only right to take it there given how our late Dad like classic well-engineered cars.
Needless to say it didn't miss a beat and was a pleasure on the motorway. Another month on the road I think, by which time it will be getting colder at which point I will be keen to get the heating and ventilation system sorted.
Always a pleasure to see a like-minded motorist. The green convertible is often parked alongside mine but I have yet to meet the owner.
Needless to say it didn't miss a beat and was a pleasure on the motorway. Another month on the road I think, by which time it will be getting colder at which point I will be keen to get the heating and ventilation system sorted.
Always a pleasure to see a like-minded motorist. The green convertible is often parked alongside mine but I have yet to meet the owner.
Edited by paulyv on Tuesday 18th September 15:54
What a joy people are.
Every quality car on the street keyed last night. A Mercedes SLK, a new Porsche Cayenne, Audi A3 amongst others and of course my SLC. They did a proper job on it too - most panels damaged. That's the cost of a respray I won't see back. Time to think about car storage in 2019 I suppose.
Police informed, though I appreciate there's much they will be able to do. I also left a note on every other car suggesting they immediately do the same. They didn't touch the lurid (to me) M5 with carbon roof parked next to mine, so maybe I need to have a wrap done in electric green prior to lowering it.
Rather gutted really and off for a stiff drink.
Every quality car on the street keyed last night. A Mercedes SLK, a new Porsche Cayenne, Audi A3 amongst others and of course my SLC. They did a proper job on it too - most panels damaged. That's the cost of a respray I won't see back. Time to think about car storage in 2019 I suppose.
Police informed, though I appreciate there's much they will be able to do. I also left a note on every other car suggesting they immediately do the same. They didn't touch the lurid (to me) M5 with carbon roof parked next to mine, so maybe I need to have a wrap done in electric green prior to lowering it.
Rather gutted really and off for a stiff drink.
Thank you for your kind comments, and your vitriol toward the perpetrators.
It had been such a good day too - I'd just successfully replaced the rocker cover gasket on my Puma - quite a big mechanical adventure for me.
I think I am going to leave it as is until early in the New Year. I want to secure some off-street parking for it before a full respray in the winter. Let's make it look like it just came out the factory. Best start saving.
It had been such a good day too - I'd just successfully replaced the rocker cover gasket on my Puma - quite a big mechanical adventure for me.
I think I am going to leave it as is until early in the New Year. I want to secure some off-street parking for it before a full respray in the winter. Let's make it look like it just came out the factory. Best start saving.
Dammit said:
Not unless every other expensive car on the street had a Farage-esque plate as well.
It's a real shame - beautiful car. I've recently had my 911 resprayed by a place that specialise in classic Mercedes - they know their stuff well enough to have a number of pagoda roofed cars in when I was last there. They're in Chobham if that's close enough to be useful?
Thank you - any names would be worth considering for when the time comes along. It's a real shame - beautiful car. I've recently had my 911 resprayed by a place that specialise in classic Mercedes - they know their stuff well enough to have a number of pagoda roofed cars in when I was last there. They're in Chobham if that's close enough to be useful?
Again, I appreciate your kind words - I look forward to unveiling the new paint in a few months, together with a bit more work on the interior. Watch this space.
Hmmm,
So this weekend's mystery.
As you might recall when I bought this car I found it had a wet carpet drivers side, hence I feared the worst...namely rotten bulkhead issues. Drying the carpet out revealed no more leaks for some time and a thorough trip at Edward Hall, who really knows his stuff, resulted in his suggesting the bulkhead was solid.
This morning I have a wet carpet again. It rained heavily overnight but the car has not been anywhere for about 3 weeks. I think it has been wet some time as a little mushroom has started to grow on the floor mat. It really is sodden.
So, if it isn't the bulkhead, could this be happening through any other route or means? I have not had time to had a thorough inspection of the floor to see what is what yet but will get some photos up from inside at some point this week.
Suggestions welcomed.
So this weekend's mystery.
As you might recall when I bought this car I found it had a wet carpet drivers side, hence I feared the worst...namely rotten bulkhead issues. Drying the carpet out revealed no more leaks for some time and a thorough trip at Edward Hall, who really knows his stuff, resulted in his suggesting the bulkhead was solid.
This morning I have a wet carpet again. It rained heavily overnight but the car has not been anywhere for about 3 weeks. I think it has been wet some time as a little mushroom has started to grow on the floor mat. It really is sodden.
So, if it isn't the bulkhead, could this be happening through any other route or means? I have not had time to had a thorough inspection of the floor to see what is what yet but will get some photos up from inside at some point this week.
Suggestions welcomed.
tanneman said:
Check the sunroof drains are unblocked.
Thank you for this link - I will have a look.My puzzle was that 2 drivers-side floor mats lay atop each other, the sound deadening coconut matting currently removed. Both were drenched although the bottom one has a thick plastic lower side, hence I cannot see it regularly running down around the pedals and making the mats wet from the base upwards. Nor is the metal flooring unduly rusty if this had been going on for the past year. If it's the bulkhead people usually advise looking 'under' the mats to check for moisture.
I did notice a drop or two of water hanging off the sun visor of all things today which might well point to the sunroof so I will have a good investigation - I had not heard of this issue before.
Appreciate the advice.
Pauly
CharlesdeGaulle said:
Window, or the seal along the top of the door? Is the door aligned so that the glass is tight against the seal?
Steve Griffin (MercTec) re-hung my doors (or re-did the windows, I can't recall) and I get almost nothing in now.
Thanks for this too CdG - I think they are okay but I can find a way to check. My car may well be going to see Steve in the New Year for pneumatic reasons, which sounds highly personal.Steve Griffin (MercTec) re-hung my doors (or re-did the windows, I can't recall) and I get almost nothing in now.
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