Jaguar xjc 4.2

[RobXjcoupe]

Dropped the exhaust manifolds off and the coupe now has her windscreens fitted and also dash……getting closer to start up



A brake pressure switch or whatever is does has decided to leak. It’s an original 1977 part so I suppose it’s expected. So a new one of those is to be bought and fitted

Other than that all seems to be good

[RobXjcoupe]

Above showing coated exhaust manifolds fitted. I also made up a new cable from the alternator to the bulkhead fixing point, cloth wrapped as the original wiring so it just blends in and disappears. I used twin 8awg with new Lucas spade connectors

[RobXjcoupe]

Just a nice rear quarter picture. Showing the outboard rear brakes as well

[RobXjcoupe]

carinaman said:

The manifolds look good and at leas the leaking brake pressure switch found now rather than later. The car looks great. I've not finished admiring the dash and dials yet.

Thank you. That brake pressure switch is tiny. Bought a new one. Hopefully does the trick.
The dash veneer was replaced about 20 years ago. It’s lasted well. I know some think it’s old fashioned but I like it. Part of a classic car, wood dash with 6 dials and chrome bumpers,

[RobXjcoupe]

Gradually getting to first start up and setting fuel pressure. So pumps pull fuel from tanks lovely via the modified original in tank fuel pump attachments. So good there. New fuel pipes no leaks on connections, floats worked first time and valve stopped fuel overflow. Then the diaphragms let go and fuel leaks appeared around bottom of all 3 carburettors. Not good. So fuel pumps off. Cleaned up spilt fuel and gave the engine a roll over. Starter motor turned extremely slow and simply stopped. The engine did cough though but clearly needed spinning a little longer and faster. Battery connections were good, earth connections were good so starter came out. Bench tested it, solenoid kicked in, starter went to rotate but seized. Hmmm I thought was working when I tested it after rebuild so not sure what’s happened there.
So it’s order 3 new carb diaphragms which seem extremely expensive for a bit of rubber and brass and thinking for piece of mind buy a new starter motor rather than fix it. Seems odd it’s jammed though. I will take it apart just for curiosity sake.
So nearly first start

[RobXjcoupe]

Aluminati said:

RobXjcoupe said:

Gradually getting to first start up and setting fuel pressure. So pumps pull fuel from tanks lovely via the modified original in tank fuel pump attachments. So good there. New fuel pipes no leaks on connections, floats worked first time and valve stopped fuel overflow. Then the diaphragms let go and fuel leaks appeared around bottom of all 3 carburettors. Not good. So fuel pumps off. Cleaned up spilt fuel and gave the engine a roll over. Starter motor turned extremely slow and simply stopped. The engine did cough though but clearly needed spinning a little longer and faster. Battery connections were good, earth connections were good so starter came out. Bench tested it, solenoid kicked in, starter went to rotate but seized. Hmmm I thought was working when I tested it after rebuild so not sure what’s happened there.
So it’s order 3 new carb diaphragms which seem extremely expensive for a bit of rubber and brass and thinking for piece of mind buy a new starter motor rather than fix it. Seems odd it’s jammed though. I will take it apart just for curiosity sake.
So nearly first start

If I remember correctly, the bronze bush in the rear backplate has a habit of letting go. It has been about 30 years since I built one though !

I’ll have a check later this week

[RobXjcoupe]

New starter has arrived. Apparently originally bought in error to fit an e-type. This version suits the xj6. Looking at it, it’s a standard unit with different mounting plates to suit application. I didn’t pay full price for it hopefully it does the job.
Still waiting for the carb diaphragm jets to arrive.

[RobXjcoupe]

RobXjcoupe said:

New starter has arrived. Apparently originally bought in error to fit an e-type. This version suits the xj6. Looking at it, it’s a standard unit with different mounting plates to suit application. I didn’t pay full price for it hopefully it does the job.
Still waiting for the carb diaphragm jets to arrive.

New starter motor fitted today only to find original power cable now too short. 50mm too short, not loads but frustratingly just too short! New carburettor diaphragms arrived so massive fingers crossed I might have a running engine by the end of the week.
To add a couple pictures. The underneath with the exhaust fitted again but now painted. The aluminium heat shields above the rear silencers painted also so no bare aluminium. Hopefully fit and forget. Silencers are dented but original to when I first bought the car back in 2002.

[RobXjcoupe]

Starter motor cable sorted, new diaphragms fitted to all 3 carbs and now leak free.
Picture above shows the blurr of the radiator fan revolving with the engine running . Tomorrow will get it up to temperature and check everything for leaks. Big relief as I’ve never had an engine apart to near component level. I’m quietly chuffed

[RobXjcoupe]

Aluminati said:

Looking forward to seeing this moving

Myself also

[RobXjcoupe]

Above showing the oil cooler radiator connection wobbling around after trying to nip it up due to slight oil weep.
It was a brand new unit mind.
Below with a bit of extra weld. The other end done as well just in case that rattles loose over time

[RobXjcoupe]

Aluminati said:

Bobberoo said:

That's pretty piss poor!!!

I’d of called it future proofing:

Well it’s future proofed now

[RobXjcoupe]

[RobXjcoupe]

If you tap the above picture it should show a short vid of the engine running and exhaust note

[RobXjcoupe]

B'stard Child said:

RobXjcoupe said:

If you tap the above picture it should show a short vid of the engine running and exhaust note

Didn’t give sound for me but I did see a puff from the exhaust which proved it was running

Just tried the video and no sound?
Sorry people. No idea how to correct that unfortunately

[RobXjcoupe]

Before anyone says no oil pressure, it’s a faulty sender.
Got to be honest getting fed up replacing every other switch or sender unit…….but that’s the joy of a restoration.
So new oil pressure gauge sender and new water temp gauge sender. I’m impressed the alternator still works unlike the original starter motor. The electric gizmo inside the distributor has also been replaced although it did work initially on first start up.
Last dial to check will be the speedo. No fingers crossed for that as it’s a wired speedo.

[RobXjcoupe]

Now the engine is running I’ve been able to do a gearbox oil flush. As a recap it’s an LT77 manual 5 speed. A tip I got from the tvr boys using the same gearbox. Drain existing oil, then refill with a 50/50 ratio of auto gearbox fluid and white spirt. Making sure rear wheels are off the ground, start engine, put into gear and let the engine tick over gently driving the gearbox until warmed up getting the flush oil all through the gearbox. Drain and repeat process until flush oil comes out clean. Then it’s ready to refill with the correct grade of oil. The TVR boys recommended a refill with mobile1 engine oil together with an additional additive for manual gearbox’s. This mix allows cold slick gear changes and when hot stops any crunchy gear changes. I didn’t notice hot crunchy gear changes when first fitted many years ago but it was a bit notchy when cold. So hopefully should solve that cold issue.
Picture below showing clean flush oil being drained out

[RobXjcoupe]

Had a few issues after the initial engine start. First one a coolant leak between the inlet manifold and cylinder. A metallic looking something wedged between the manifold and gasket.
Only way to check thoroughly was to part dismantle the carburettors to remove the inlet manifold. Picture below is what I found

Somehow I fitted the gasket and fitted a washer to a stud and then fitted the manifold on top?!
So after using a few fragrant words all was put back together with a new gasket. Then the carburettor fuel lines wouldn’t seal around the banjo bolts. Aluminium washers were not sealing. Tried fibre, they didn’t stay dry long. Far right carb wouldn’t seal at all. Copper washers didn’t work. Then looked at the float lid and the internal thread was damaged. That took 5 hours of dismantling and rebuild carefully trying not to launch anything before I swapped that part?!

So now the coolant wasn’t leaking, fuel wasn’t leaking, time to fire up. Full choke she started. Happy days again. Gradually warming up checking for leaks again. Exhaust note is lovely, a bit angry sounding for a Jag 6, not too loud but sounding a bit more aggressive. Perfect! So back to the engine, started a few blips, induction noise is also sounding sweet. The carbs need tweaking but not bad considering. Then with horror I watched the power steering pulley fall off and dent the inside of the radiator

Gutted!
No idea how this has happened as the pulley is an interference fit on the shaft and required the pulley to be heated up in an oven to expand enough to fit back on the power steering pump shaft.
Now I need to measure up and see what’s happened. Possibly machine a new part to suit the pump or find another pump with the pulley still fitted.
Other than that, another day in car restoration paradise

[RobXjcoupe]

Retro_Jim said:

Power steering aside it's good to hear that the Jag is running after some tweaks etc.

Are the oil pressure senders still available to buy?

Yes new oil pressure senders are available. There has been a recent resurgence in certain xj6 series parts. Obviously expensive but available.
I still do my best to repair where possible.

[RobXjcoupe]

Started the repair on the carburettor float lid. The internal thread is damaged so had a look, and I can extend the thread another 10mm deeper into the body. I’ve cut a matching thread on a bit of bar stock. This will then be thread locked into place. A new internal hole will then be drilled within. Not the same size as original but one that is a little bigger than the 6mm hole drilled through the side of the bolt. Probably go for 1/2” unf
A new banjo bolt will then be made to suit the new threaded hole within the carburettor float lid.
The feed hole into the float chamber is only 3mm, so can’t see any issues with fuel flow restrictions. Hopefully get this finished tomorrow.