850 T5 Project - Ivy
Discussion
Snazzyjake said:
Loving your work so far buddy! Love the car too (although I may be biased as I've got an 850r). 
Its refreshing to see someone spending time and effort sorting out the small niggles/details on an old car like this. Great work on the grille by the way, looks so much better than before .
Thanks, love it to pieces! Told myself I have to keep it for at least the next 2-3 years, if not longer.Its refreshing to see someone spending time and effort sorting out the small niggles/details on an old car like this. Great work on the grille by the way, looks so much better than before .
dannyDC2 said:
How is it for rattles? That's something I'm constantly chasing too. Every time I fix one, another is exposed... pretty annoying, coming from German daily drivers, I'm not used to this
I had one rattle from the broken glovebox hinge, one from the broken gaiter trim, and I have one more from a broken speaker cover in the trunk (missing a mounting tab). The former two are gone, and the trunk one can't always be heard but will be very easy to fix.You have to bear in mind that even the youngest P80 V70 will be 18 years old now, with the oldest being 22. Plastics can become brittle and tabs can break. I'd suggest to just be very careful in removal of plastic pieces and also to use a good trim restorer/protectant regularly to stop any more UV damage/brittleness from materialising.
dannyDC2 said:
Love the sound of the T5 though, but aren't they juicy. Mine's averaging around 20mpg, lowest tank recorded was 16mpg, best was 33 (on a run to Norfolk!).
Agreed, love the sound. They're not mega-economical but they should be better than that. I'm averaging 30mpg over the 3000miles I've done so far, most of that being daily commute with 17 miles of motorway and 9 miles of slow moving and/or stop-start traffic each way. I've seen 36 on a run to West Wales.I'd suggest a stage 0 service, so plugs, distributor cap, ignition wires, rotor arm and fuel filter. Parts should come in less than £100 and take about an hour and a half to fit if you're used to working on cars. Made a noticeable difference to my fuel economy, and how the car ran in general. The B5234T engines do benefit greatly from staying on top of these parts.
dannyDC2 said:
Can I ask your methods on cleaning up the rear boot carpet? Mines had a cover on so is pretty fresh, but would be nice to give it a freshen up too. I quite like the 'Wembley Stadium' effect you've gone for 
Halfords Upholstery Cleaner (£5, best car cleaning purchase you'll ever make, I can promise you that), a £1 stiff bristle brush, some microfibres, and (optional) a vacuum. Oh, and about 20mins of elbow grease.Spray the cleaner onto the dirt/stain (whole boot in my case), leave it to dwell for a minute or two then attack it with the brush. I found a criss-cross pattern to be easier than circular motions. You can then use the vacuum to suck up the majority of the dampness, though it shouldnt be too wet, and then a microfibre to soak up the remains. 'Stadium' effect is just done by a carpet attachment and brushing to nap in different directions.
Sorted another little niggle (or two) today... Firstly, the rear wiper. Its old position meant that at the 'bottom' of its wipe it was practically off the glass, and the 'top' ended about one third of the way up the other side - quite noticeable when driving at night as it obscured more than you would think.
Removal was easy, just pop the plastic cover back, undo the 12mm bolt and pull the wiper arm off the spline. Now, if you're sad like me, that gives you the chance to clean the threads of the bolt and spline, as well as cleaning the backside of the arm. Then you simply adjust the position on the spline until you're happy with it. Might adjust is further at a later date and see if I can get it to a bit flatter, but for now its miles better.
Please excuse the selfies, couldn't avoid them
Next, I'd noticed in a picture in this very thread that there seemed to be a bit of high point with regards to the front bumper, being much closer to the bottom of the grill surround in one place. Decided to investigate this and found that there was indeed a high spot, being caused by the bumper sitting on top of the screw it should have been under...
One T20 Torx and ten seconds later, we had a properly positioned front bumper:
(Incidentally, there's a picture of the front grill and emblem for you, all installed after the last update).
After that, whilst looking for an excuse to stay out in the sun a bit longer - after a week of rain - I decided to clean my shuts and do a quick interior detail, something I'd normally do during my maintenance washes... I took it a step further this time though.
Before... This was hit with some diluted Megs APC (1:20) and brushed off, before being treated to a waterless wash with normal car shampoo.
After drying, I was left with this... Clean, but definitely showing its age.
Spent about 10 mins per shut with some Ultimate Compound and a microfibre applicator just to try and restore some sort of gloss and take out some of the finer scratches. As sad as it is, I'd quite like to get an extension bar and some 1" backing plates/pads to give them a proper machine polish. I finished them off with a quick sealant application, just to make cleaning them in the maintenance washes that bit easier. Fairly pleased with the outcome.
Quick vacuum, dust-down and application of some Vinyl and Rubber Care on the dash and seals, and we left it at this:
Exterior is covered in dust from the bodyshop and dirt from the 380 miles its done in the rain since collection, so it would be nice to wash her tomorrow - weather permitting. Exterior trim definitely needs another treatment again too.
Removal was easy, just pop the plastic cover back, undo the 12mm bolt and pull the wiper arm off the spline. Now, if you're sad like me, that gives you the chance to clean the threads of the bolt and spline, as well as cleaning the backside of the arm. Then you simply adjust the position on the spline until you're happy with it. Might adjust is further at a later date and see if I can get it to a bit flatter, but for now its miles better.
Please excuse the selfies, couldn't avoid them
Next, I'd noticed in a picture in this very thread that there seemed to be a bit of high point with regards to the front bumper, being much closer to the bottom of the grill surround in one place. Decided to investigate this and found that there was indeed a high spot, being caused by the bumper sitting on top of the screw it should have been under...
One T20 Torx and ten seconds later, we had a properly positioned front bumper:
(Incidentally, there's a picture of the front grill and emblem for you, all installed after the last update).
After that, whilst looking for an excuse to stay out in the sun a bit longer - after a week of rain - I decided to clean my shuts and do a quick interior detail, something I'd normally do during my maintenance washes... I took it a step further this time though.
Before... This was hit with some diluted Megs APC (1:20) and brushed off, before being treated to a waterless wash with normal car shampoo.
After drying, I was left with this... Clean, but definitely showing its age.
Spent about 10 mins per shut with some Ultimate Compound and a microfibre applicator just to try and restore some sort of gloss and take out some of the finer scratches. As sad as it is, I'd quite like to get an extension bar and some 1" backing plates/pads to give them a proper machine polish. I finished them off with a quick sealant application, just to make cleaning them in the maintenance washes that bit easier. Fairly pleased with the outcome.
Quick vacuum, dust-down and application of some Vinyl and Rubber Care on the dash and seals, and we left it at this:
Exterior is covered in dust from the bodyshop and dirt from the 380 miles its done in the rain since collection, so it would be nice to wash her tomorrow - weather permitting. Exterior trim definitely needs another treatment again too.
Cambs_Stuart said:
Really enjoying this thread! Keep up the good work.
Only issue now is that I keep looking at T5's on ebay...
Only issue now is that I keep looking at T5's on ebay...
seiben said:
Good work there! I bought a sheddy, sub-£500 V70 last year for tip run and general winter duties, but it's been so blimmin' good I've been practically using it daily. Something like this as an upgrade (mine's the dead slow 140bhp petrol lump) is pretty tempting... 
Do it, both of you! They really are fantastic and absolutely deserve to be saved from the scrap heap. Rust isn't really an issue with this (some get some rot in the wings) and with good maintenance they certainly do reach some mega-miles. Decent ones in lower specs or less desirable trims (like the beige interior) can be had for around a grand making man-maths very easy indeed.On the project front, I paid a chap £24 and received some scrap paper a few days later...
Felt almost like Christmas (in fact, I got more presents here than I did then, thinking about it...)
So, we have: front tow hook cover (was missing), dog guard mounts (were missing), forward dog guard mounts that bolt over grab handles (I currently have reading lights instead, its one or the other but this gives me the chance to swap them out when Im carrying loads versus carrying passengers...its only one bolt to swap), Guard II Alarm System relay (mine is borked, hence no remote central locking and no working alarm - but immobiliser still works), and a spare remote fob.
By now I'm sure you know I couldn't simply install the parts. No no no, far too easy. First I had to
. For the record, magic erasers are great for getting ink/transfer/very-ingrained dirt out of plastic trim.
Rear ones mounted:
Front tow hook cover:
Then I had the pleasure of swapping the relays. Nothing challenging at first glance. Simply unscrew 3x T20 torx screws to remove the lower steering column trim panel, pull the old one out and plug the new one in - making sure to plug in the alarm system into the top of the relay too. In reality, the relays are located up beneath the dash, tucked to the right of the steering column, conveniently covered by the mass of wiring from the relays and dash. This didn't make the process harder, just gaining access. Once I'd assumed the crab position, with my back being forcibly arched by the sills it took 30 seconds to sort.
Little black box trying to hide away from view, clearly very shy.
Once I'd removed the lower trim panel I'd noticed some cracking from where the plastic had become brittle and someone had applied slightly too much torque and pressure when tightening the bolts. I couldn't leave it like this, so I grabbed some polycement and some modelling putty and tried to fill them in. I wasn't going for any sort of neatness (he says, having spent 10 mins prior to this cleaning the panel's interior and exterior faces), just to try and add some structural support to the piece.
Got it installed being very careful tightening the bolts and didn't hear any cracks or see any flexing so fingers crossed. After that I got the new fob programmed to the new relay, which went without a hitch. Unfortunately this didn't ring true for my original fob which wouldn't program to this relay in the same way it wouldn't program to the rear one. With the newer one working and having much better condition buttons, but my original one having a better case I am rather tempted to try and swap the internals of the new one into the original one to make one 'okay' condition fob... For this to happen though, I would need to figure out how to separate the case as its not a screw affair like the two other cases I've encountered in my short automotive life.
I also managed to find some OE Volvo 850 roofbars, which I snapped up for £42 delivered.
Cookeh said:
With the newer one working and having much better condition buttons, but my original one having a better case I am rather tempted to try and swap the internals of the new one into the original one to make one 'okay' condition fob... For this to happen though, I would need to figure out how to separate the case as its not a screw affair like the two other cases I've encountered in my short automotive life.
Figured that out very easily after a caffeine injection, and butchered the two remotes to create one singe 'good' frankenstein of a remote and one 'not-so-good' frankenstein of a remote. To get it apart you have to remove the battery cover and the batteries, then pry the two apart. Don't insert anything into the interior of the caseor you can very easily hit things on the PCB, just work along the edges.The two donors. The new-to-me one has a much better condition rubber buttons, the battery access isn't chewed up, and it actually works. The original one has a case in a better condition and the rubber strap hasn't snapped off.
Broken down:
Nastiness (obviously cleaned everything, sad sad man that I am):
Reassembled into good and no-so.
aaaaaand of course I didnt rotate any images prior to uploading. Oh well.
Excellent work and nice attention to detail too sir. I've had countless 850's and early V70's, mostly T5's and they really are fabulous but of an age where maintaining them is getting harder, more so as parts become harder to source. I've moved on to P2 V70's now and a Focus with it's Swedish outfit on, but keep find myself looking at 850's... get the feeling I'll need to act soon before they all but disappear and / or become a fortune!
@Davie, grab one! They are getting slightly rarer now and prices are on the up for those that are in good state of repairs. They really are excellent things too.
Small update, heard a slight rattle in the boot on the way home today so naturally stripped the entire boot floor and being me cleaned absolutely everything - leaving me with something I found acceptable but far from perfect:
Throughout the strip and clean I found a few items that may have been causing the rattle. Most of these were actually in the pockets to either side of the spare wheel stowage so really not sure how they got there. There was also a sizeable amount of shattered glass scattered around- which explains the rear window replacement I found in the history - quite what caused it though I have no idea.
There is one further possible source of rattle, namely the corroded strap that holds the spare tyres and jack in place.... might have to try and source a new one of these - presuming its cheap, sod spending more than a few pounds on something like that - could just buy a new ratchet mechanism and sew it in.
Amusingly, it seems Volvo's issues with wheel corrosion is not a new thing given the state of the spare that has never been used - complete with tyre sticker and all its casting nubs. Still, it's in much better condition than some of the alloys on the car so I might pick the very worst alloy and swap it. Every little bit helps until I get round to refurb'ing or even finding replacement Columbas/Volans.
A member on a different forum was kind enough to send me an indicator stalk, which arrived the other day too so I may try and fit that tomorrow (thanks again!). She also hit 4000 miles with me on Wednesday, so she was rewarded with the purchase of a (supposedly) working ABS module that I'll also try and fit tomorrow when I've gotten my hands on either an E5 female torx or a 12-point 4mm socket. This one looks like its previously been refurb'ed so Im hoping all should be well.
Small update, heard a slight rattle in the boot on the way home today so naturally stripped the entire boot floor and being me cleaned absolutely everything - leaving me with something I found acceptable but far from perfect:
Throughout the strip and clean I found a few items that may have been causing the rattle. Most of these were actually in the pockets to either side of the spare wheel stowage so really not sure how they got there. There was also a sizeable amount of shattered glass scattered around- which explains the rear window replacement I found in the history - quite what caused it though I have no idea.
There is one further possible source of rattle, namely the corroded strap that holds the spare tyres and jack in place.... might have to try and source a new one of these - presuming its cheap, sod spending more than a few pounds on something like that - could just buy a new ratchet mechanism and sew it in.
Amusingly, it seems Volvo's issues with wheel corrosion is not a new thing given the state of the spare that has never been used - complete with tyre sticker and all its casting nubs. Still, it's in much better condition than some of the alloys on the car so I might pick the very worst alloy and swap it. Every little bit helps until I get round to refurb'ing or even finding replacement Columbas/Volans.
A member on a different forum was kind enough to send me an indicator stalk, which arrived the other day too so I may try and fit that tomorrow (thanks again!). She also hit 4000 miles with me on Wednesday, so she was rewarded with the purchase of a (supposedly) working ABS module that I'll also try and fit tomorrow when I've gotten my hands on either an E5 female torx or a 12-point 4mm socket. This one looks like its previously been refurb'ed so Im hoping all should be well.
Chased down one more rattle today, in the drivers door. Took the door card off and found that 4 of the 6 bolts/screws were loose - no prizes for guessing the source of the rattle there...
Popped the door card off anyway to check for any cracks or broken items that may have also been contributing to the rattle but found nothing else. Put it all back together, nipped the bolts/screws up properly and moved on to the ABS ECU. I also removed the centre console to try and track down another very very occasional rattle that's somewhere in the front passenger cabin - but found nothing.
Of course, being me, couldn't do any work in the engine bay without at least giving it a wipe down (at least I didn't go as far as polishing the aluminium and dressing the plastics/hoses this time!) - bonus points to anyone who can spot the ABS ECU module too:
So here is our target, nicely constrained by the airbox, hose, and ABS hard lines:
Removal is nice and easy, just remove the power cable by depressing the tabs on the side then remove the main cable by lifting the n/s edge of it. This allows the cover to hinge back which will then lever the cable out by itself (pretty clever design in my opinion). Please either disconnect the battery (if you have your radio code) or at least leave the car without ignition on for 30mins or so.
Next is to try your very best to get access to the four E5 female torx bolts - which I didn't know existed until earlier this week - using your 3/8" ratchet + adapter + E5 socket. This then won't work, as the adapter makes the ratchet slightly too long to be able to fit in the limited space
. As such you'll have to reassemble what you've done so far and go to Screwfix to buy a 1/4" ratchet (I have honestly never used anything less than a 3/8" for, well, anything... Combined with the use of star sockets, this is far from a clever design...). On the plus side I found that the rattle in the driver door was fixed...yay! 
Once you've gotten the smallest 1/4" ratchet you can find unscrew the module - being very aware that once the last screw comes out there is nothing holding it on and it can very easily fall if you aren't holding it. Best way to get it off is to lower it vertically to clear the 'pins' on the base of the ABS pump and then angle it so its vertical and bring it up by the left hand corner through the gap by the airbox hose. Here's some pics of the little blighter - which seemingly causes far more issues than it has reason to in the P80 Volvo 850s and C/S/V70s.
9140773 is the unit for most 2WD 850s without TRACS. If you have a 2WD 850 with TRACS its quite likely to be 9140774. This will differ for pre-OBDII (so pre-1995 cars), and will differ for me7 onwards P80 C/S/V70s. It looks like this blighter has had a previous repair too, given how chewed up the edges are and that its missing the metal retaining clips; this goes some way to highlighting just how common an issue this is. Almost a given though, when you consider the position which is upside down and fully exposed to water/dust/stones. Knowing it has been repaired before means I may well have a stab at fixing it myself and keeping it as a spare. In most cases its just a case of dried solder, typically in the ABS sensor connectors.
Anyway, refitting the new piece is just a reverse of removal and I personally found it easier to tighten the screws in by hand until all four were in before using the ratchet to fully tighten them, stops you having to balance the module whilst fighting for access.
At this point, having spent numerous hours extending a patio and reorganising a shed it was long past dinner time so I called it there and didn't get round to fitting the indicator stalk....tomorrow perhaps. Joys of your partner working one in two or three weekends in that occasionally you can work on your car without judgement or other commitments!
Popped the door card off anyway to check for any cracks or broken items that may have also been contributing to the rattle but found nothing else. Put it all back together, nipped the bolts/screws up properly and moved on to the ABS ECU. I also removed the centre console to try and track down another very very occasional rattle that's somewhere in the front passenger cabin - but found nothing.
Of course, being me, couldn't do any work in the engine bay without at least giving it a wipe down (at least I didn't go as far as polishing the aluminium and dressing the plastics/hoses this time!) - bonus points to anyone who can spot the ABS ECU module too:
So here is our target, nicely constrained by the airbox, hose, and ABS hard lines:
Removal is nice and easy, just remove the power cable by depressing the tabs on the side then remove the main cable by lifting the n/s edge of it. This allows the cover to hinge back which will then lever the cable out by itself (pretty clever design in my opinion). Please either disconnect the battery (if you have your radio code) or at least leave the car without ignition on for 30mins or so.
Next is to try your very best to get access to the four E5 female torx bolts - which I didn't know existed until earlier this week - using your 3/8" ratchet + adapter + E5 socket. This then won't work, as the adapter makes the ratchet slightly too long to be able to fit in the limited space
. As such you'll have to reassemble what you've done so far and go to Screwfix to buy a 1/4" ratchet (I have honestly never used anything less than a 3/8" for, well, anything... Combined with the use of star sockets, this is far from a clever design...). On the plus side I found that the rattle in the driver door was fixed...yay! Once you've gotten the smallest 1/4" ratchet you can find unscrew the module - being very aware that once the last screw comes out there is nothing holding it on and it can very easily fall if you aren't holding it. Best way to get it off is to lower it vertically to clear the 'pins' on the base of the ABS pump and then angle it so its vertical and bring it up by the left hand corner through the gap by the airbox hose. Here's some pics of the little blighter - which seemingly causes far more issues than it has reason to in the P80 Volvo 850s and C/S/V70s.
9140773 is the unit for most 2WD 850s without TRACS. If you have a 2WD 850 with TRACS its quite likely to be 9140774. This will differ for pre-OBDII (so pre-1995 cars), and will differ for me7 onwards P80 C/S/V70s. It looks like this blighter has had a previous repair too, given how chewed up the edges are and that its missing the metal retaining clips; this goes some way to highlighting just how common an issue this is. Almost a given though, when you consider the position which is upside down and fully exposed to water/dust/stones. Knowing it has been repaired before means I may well have a stab at fixing it myself and keeping it as a spare. In most cases its just a case of dried solder, typically in the ABS sensor connectors.
Anyway, refitting the new piece is just a reverse of removal and I personally found it easier to tighten the screws in by hand until all four were in before using the ratchet to fully tighten them, stops you having to balance the module whilst fighting for access.
At this point, having spent numerous hours extending a patio and reorganising a shed it was long past dinner time so I called it there and didn't get round to fitting the indicator stalk....tomorrow perhaps. Joys of your partner working one in two or three weekends in that occasionally you can work on your car without judgement or other commitments!
So, whilst on a day out in the Peaks I got stuck behind various cyclists (cant blame them, lovely day in a lovely area) and slow moving traffic for about 5 miles. As a result, as I pulled up to park at our destination I found she had overheated (hit the red as I put the handbrake on). Saw smoke from the bonnet at thought the absolute worst. Turns out my cooling fan had seized and burnt the motor out - which explains the smoke and is far less serious.
Found a used unit on eBay for £31 inc next day delivery, so hopefully have that sorted soon. Bunch of vac lines to unplug and then its as simple as loosening two torx bolts and removing a further two. I did want to go new, but with a price tag of £248.50+VAT and a 1 week lead time on delivery I thought better of that.
On a more positive note, my new suspension has arrived; Bilstein B4s all around, coupled with Lesjöfors 30mm lowering springs. Lowering springs worked out a lot cheaper than the stock springs, and have some excellent reviews. B4s are apparently designed to provide equal performance down to a 40mm drop so that's good - plus I've never been a fan of the stock ride height of 850s and found them a bit too roll-y. Hoping this will be a nice balance between handling and comfort (will definitely be better than whats on there at the minute anyway!).
Found a used unit on eBay for £31 inc next day delivery, so hopefully have that sorted soon. Bunch of vac lines to unplug and then its as simple as loosening two torx bolts and removing a further two. I did want to go new, but with a price tag of £248.50+VAT and a 1 week lead time on delivery I thought better of that.
On a more positive note, my new suspension has arrived; Bilstein B4s all around, coupled with Lesjöfors 30mm lowering springs. Lowering springs worked out a lot cheaper than the stock springs, and have some excellent reviews. B4s are apparently designed to provide equal performance down to a 40mm drop so that's good - plus I've never been a fan of the stock ride height of 850s and found them a bit too roll-y. Hoping this will be a nice balance between handling and comfort (will definitely be better than whats on there at the minute anyway!).
Edited by Cookeh on Monday 21st May 18:01
So, fairly large update. Went with the second hand cooling fan in the end, £31 next-day delivered, as I couldn't stomach the cost of a new one or it's lead time. That arrived on Thurs of last week, and I promptly set about fitting it.
Simple process really: unplug the cables -> remove some air hoses for better access -> unscrew the top two T25 torxs -> then with the front of the car jacked up (front subframe or if you have two jacks like me and your car is stupidly low, the control arm mounts) back off the lower two T25 torx screws and slide the assembly out. Fitting is just the reverse of removal. Easy.
Hoses removed:
I also ended up removal the plastic shroud covering the throttle body and the inlet hose just above the rad too for a bit more access, but no pics.
Here's a bad pictures of the burnt up motor and melted cables:
I then took the car to the local Volvo specialist and got the coolant replaced, 12 litres, costing £85. Really need to invest in a drain pan, would save me a fortune. They also did a quick diagnostics of the cooling system at my request and found nothing else untoward. I've been checking coolant levels and both dipstick and filler caps during the last 700 miles she's done since then and I've fortunately not seen anything. Fingers crossed, touch wood, and whatever other superstitions one may have, the head is ok.
Something else happened to arrive in the post that same day, a rather larger and rather more expensive thing at that:
If I'm being honest I was quite daunted at the prospect of changing suspension out, but it turned out to be a really simple process and quite enjoyable (even with some seized knuckle bolts that were seemingly made of cheese they rounded so easily). Took 6 bolts to undo and 6 bolts to refit on each corner. Rears took me about 20 mins a side, fronts about 50 mins. My fears over spring compressors were also misplaced, as the two-pronged spring compressors I got showed no signs of slipping or instability.
Couldn't believe how easy the rears were, all one has to do is remove the boot floor (two 10mm bolts), remove the two 12mm bolts on the top damper mounts, remove the 18mm bolt retaining the damper, jack the control arm up and bit and slide the damper off and up out through the boot. The springs are then one 17mm nut on the lower spring mount and then the whole thing can pop out if you push down on the axle.
Fronts were as simple as removing the two bolts on the knuckle (17mm nuts on 18mm bolts), undoing the three 14mm nuts at the top of the strut towers, then removing the 17mm nut on the drop-link rod (I think that's what it's called, it ties the ARB into the shock absorber). The whole thing just slides down and out then, making sure to avoid snagging the ABS cables.
I didn't take any pictures of the process as I was trying to beat the weather that kept threatening to pour on me, and I was due to go and collect a concrete compost bin, lawn-mower and cement mixer from our coastal cottage later that day too.
She now sits 30mm lower than standard, but 25mm higher than on the coilovers (if anyone wants a set of TA-Technix, let me know, they're about 2 years old and have done around 10k miles). I was expecting the sport springs to feel a little harsh but I have no complaints. Front of the car feels much more settled, there's more weight in the steering and all the twitchiness and bump-steer over rougher roads has gone. The rear is also less skittish, seems to move around a little less.
This is unfortunately the only picture I have of her with the new ride height (and it doesn't show it very well!), snapped on a rubbish phone by an operator with no talent:
Anyone remember this?
[QUOTE="Cookeh, post: 31610553, member: 94250"]Unfortunately the breaker snapped a few too many pins from the centre-mid brake light cover so that doesn't fit, but he's going to send me a different one in the coming days. Awfully nice of him.[/QUOTE]
The different one arrived in the post just yesterday.
It also has a few snapped pins, but does hold in place and will do until I can find one in actual 'good' condition.
Simple process really: unplug the cables -> remove some air hoses for better access -> unscrew the top two T25 torxs -> then with the front of the car jacked up (front subframe or if you have two jacks like me and your car is stupidly low, the control arm mounts) back off the lower two T25 torx screws and slide the assembly out. Fitting is just the reverse of removal. Easy.
Hoses removed:
I also ended up removal the plastic shroud covering the throttle body and the inlet hose just above the rad too for a bit more access, but no pics.
Here's a bad pictures of the burnt up motor and melted cables:
I then took the car to the local Volvo specialist and got the coolant replaced, 12 litres, costing £85. Really need to invest in a drain pan, would save me a fortune. They also did a quick diagnostics of the cooling system at my request and found nothing else untoward. I've been checking coolant levels and both dipstick and filler caps during the last 700 miles she's done since then and I've fortunately not seen anything. Fingers crossed, touch wood, and whatever other superstitions one may have, the head is ok.
Something else happened to arrive in the post that same day, a rather larger and rather more expensive thing at that:
If I'm being honest I was quite daunted at the prospect of changing suspension out, but it turned out to be a really simple process and quite enjoyable (even with some seized knuckle bolts that were seemingly made of cheese they rounded so easily). Took 6 bolts to undo and 6 bolts to refit on each corner. Rears took me about 20 mins a side, fronts about 50 mins. My fears over spring compressors were also misplaced, as the two-pronged spring compressors I got showed no signs of slipping or instability.
Couldn't believe how easy the rears were, all one has to do is remove the boot floor (two 10mm bolts), remove the two 12mm bolts on the top damper mounts, remove the 18mm bolt retaining the damper, jack the control arm up and bit and slide the damper off and up out through the boot. The springs are then one 17mm nut on the lower spring mount and then the whole thing can pop out if you push down on the axle.
Fronts were as simple as removing the two bolts on the knuckle (17mm nuts on 18mm bolts), undoing the three 14mm nuts at the top of the strut towers, then removing the 17mm nut on the drop-link rod (I think that's what it's called, it ties the ARB into the shock absorber). The whole thing just slides down and out then, making sure to avoid snagging the ABS cables.
I didn't take any pictures of the process as I was trying to beat the weather that kept threatening to pour on me, and I was due to go and collect a concrete compost bin, lawn-mower and cement mixer from our coastal cottage later that day too.
She now sits 30mm lower than standard, but 25mm higher than on the coilovers (if anyone wants a set of TA-Technix, let me know, they're about 2 years old and have done around 10k miles). I was expecting the sport springs to feel a little harsh but I have no complaints. Front of the car feels much more settled, there's more weight in the steering and all the twitchiness and bump-steer over rougher roads has gone. The rear is also less skittish, seems to move around a little less.
This is unfortunately the only picture I have of her with the new ride height (and it doesn't show it very well!), snapped on a rubbish phone by an operator with no talent:
Anyone remember this?
[QUOTE="Cookeh, post: 31610553, member: 94250"]Unfortunately the breaker snapped a few too many pins from the centre-mid brake light cover so that doesn't fit, but he's going to send me a different one in the coming days. Awfully nice of him.[/QUOTE]
The different one arrived in the post just yesterday.
It also has a few snapped pins, but does hold in place and will do until I can find one in actual 'good' condition.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff