Shed ahead... 75
Discussion
rxe said:
Renault 5 thermostat in the top hose rather than fixing the real one: full marks for quality shed bodging! 
Well-documented upgrade for the Rover 75!https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-75-mg-zt-cd...
spreadsheet monkey said:
rxe said:
Renault 5 thermostat in the top hose rather than fixing the real one: full marks for quality shed bodging!
Well-documented upgrade for the Rover 75!https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-75-mg-zt-cd...
We decided to bolt the winter wheels on today.
I bought a spare set of alloys in 2018 for £48 off eBay, had them refurbished and then clad in then-brand new Dunlop Winter Response 2’s, 195/65R15. This will be their third winter season on the car, despite being the same size as the normal/summer set, they do seem to give a smoother ride. I put it down to the softer compound.
Here’s one of the winter tyres sitting atop one of the summer tyres; they’re a Pirelli Verde-something. Quite noticeably different, the directional tread pattern, extra sipes and larger gaps between tread blocks, perfect for little stones to get jammed in!
I’ll bin the summer Pirelli’s off for next year, although they’ve got a tiny bit of life left in them, they don’t seem to ride or handle too well. Rears are down to 3mm or so anyway, and given I can have new Continental PC6’s fitted and balanced for less than £70 a corner, I think I’ll do that.
A PITA without a lift, but once the thing is safely in the air, it takes merely 30 seconds to swap the wheels over.
Job done. Now, start praying for snow...
Round here though, even if it doesn’t snow, the colder temperatures combined with all the surface flooding, thick layers of mud covering the lanes and layers of wet, rotting leaves makes the winter tyres worth the swap. Snow and ice is a bonus, but I’ve found in previous winters these tyres give the 75 just that extra bit of grip, should you unexpectedly need it, even in mild winter conditions.
The wheels coming off always get treated to a full clean, inside and out. Although, not today; too cold, damp and it’s already dark outside. Something to do another time.
In other Rover related news, I fitted an early, real walnut dash to the interior, which I acquired from a breakers yard for about £15. It’s a far superior item to the later, plastic wood-effect dash that mine had fitted originally. First of all unlike the later plastic version, the real wood dash has veneer applied to a metal backing, less prone to flex and thus less squeaks in cold weather. The gaps around the vents are far tighter and generally has a much deeper lustre than the plastic version. Photos to follow..
I bought a spare set of alloys in 2018 for £48 off eBay, had them refurbished and then clad in then-brand new Dunlop Winter Response 2’s, 195/65R15. This will be their third winter season on the car, despite being the same size as the normal/summer set, they do seem to give a smoother ride. I put it down to the softer compound.
Here’s one of the winter tyres sitting atop one of the summer tyres; they’re a Pirelli Verde-something. Quite noticeably different, the directional tread pattern, extra sipes and larger gaps between tread blocks, perfect for little stones to get jammed in!
I’ll bin the summer Pirelli’s off for next year, although they’ve got a tiny bit of life left in them, they don’t seem to ride or handle too well. Rears are down to 3mm or so anyway, and given I can have new Continental PC6’s fitted and balanced for less than £70 a corner, I think I’ll do that.
A PITA without a lift, but once the thing is safely in the air, it takes merely 30 seconds to swap the wheels over.
Job done. Now, start praying for snow...
Round here though, even if it doesn’t snow, the colder temperatures combined with all the surface flooding, thick layers of mud covering the lanes and layers of wet, rotting leaves makes the winter tyres worth the swap. Snow and ice is a bonus, but I’ve found in previous winters these tyres give the 75 just that extra bit of grip, should you unexpectedly need it, even in mild winter conditions.
The wheels coming off always get treated to a full clean, inside and out. Although, not today; too cold, damp and it’s already dark outside. Something to do another time.
In other Rover related news, I fitted an early, real walnut dash to the interior, which I acquired from a breakers yard for about £15. It’s a far superior item to the later, plastic wood-effect dash that mine had fitted originally. First of all unlike the later plastic version, the real wood dash has veneer applied to a metal backing, less prone to flex and thus less squeaks in cold weather. The gaps around the vents are far tighter and generally has a much deeper lustre than the plastic version. Photos to follow..
Lovely car, lovely colour, I had 5 of them when they were cheap and could barely be given away, now the values are (rightly) increasing for good ones.
All mine were V6's except one, a tourer like yours, which was the derv version. I'm not a big derv fan, and didn't rate the economy - I had as much as 39mpg on the motorway with the 2.5.
The Renault 5 thermostat "bodge" works well, and I've actually done it on other cars too! Checking the vitron rings can be worthwhile, and check also the intercooler pipe, as it can become squidgy with oil and balloon under acceleration, dulling performance - a metal replacement from the BMW 5 series can be made to fit.
Vital to check the Shanon tube under the n/s wheelarch, as it rots and falls off, leaving the air intake pointing down towards the road where it can ingest stones and water with disastrous results. New ones are a fortune, just use 70mm neoprene hose from eBay for £10.
If the car refuses to start with less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel, the in tank pump has failed - the pump from a Peogeot 406 fits in the in-tank carrier, and only costs approx £30.
Cooling fan issues do not require the de-gassing of the aircon etc, instead the cooling fan shroud can be carefully cut around the aircon pipes to remove.
All mine were V6's except one, a tourer like yours, which was the derv version. I'm not a big derv fan, and didn't rate the economy - I had as much as 39mpg on the motorway with the 2.5.
The Renault 5 thermostat "bodge" works well, and I've actually done it on other cars too! Checking the vitron rings can be worthwhile, and check also the intercooler pipe, as it can become squidgy with oil and balloon under acceleration, dulling performance - a metal replacement from the BMW 5 series can be made to fit.
Vital to check the Shanon tube under the n/s wheelarch, as it rots and falls off, leaving the air intake pointing down towards the road where it can ingest stones and water with disastrous results. New ones are a fortune, just use 70mm neoprene hose from eBay for £10.
If the car refuses to start with less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel, the in tank pump has failed - the pump from a Peogeot 406 fits in the in-tank carrier, and only costs approx £30.
Cooling fan issues do not require the de-gassing of the aircon etc, instead the cooling fan shroud can be carefully cut around the aircon pipes to remove.
SirGriffin said:
Lovely car, lovely colour, I had 5 of them when they were cheap and could barely be given away, now the values are (rightly) increasing for good ones.
All mine were V6's except one, a tourer like yours, which was the derv version. I'm not a big derv fan, and didn't rate the economy - I had as much as 39mpg on the motorway with the 2.5.
The Renault 5 thermostat "bodge" works well, and I've actually done it on other cars too! Checking the vitron rings can be worthwhile, and check also the intercooler pipe, as it can become squidgy with oil and balloon under acceleration, dulling performance - a metal replacement from the BMW 5 series can be made to fit.
Vital to check the Shanon tube under the n/s wheelarch, as it rots and falls off, leaving the air intake pointing down towards the road where it can ingest stones and water with disastrous results. New ones are a fortune, just use 70mm neoprene hose from eBay for £10.
If the car refuses to start with less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel, the in tank pump has failed - the pump from a Peogeot 406 fits in the in-tank carrier, and only costs approx £30.
Cooling fan issues do not require the de-gassing of the aircon etc, instead the cooling fan shroud can be carefully cut around the aircon pipes to remove.
All valid points. I have no experience of owning a V6 version, although I would like to try one at some point. The diesel suits my needs though as usually I’d ask the car to be doing circa 20-25,000 miles per annum. The main disadvantage of the diesel is the soundtrack, something that a V6 would address. All mine were V6's except one, a tourer like yours, which was the derv version. I'm not a big derv fan, and didn't rate the economy - I had as much as 39mpg on the motorway with the 2.5.
The Renault 5 thermostat "bodge" works well, and I've actually done it on other cars too! Checking the vitron rings can be worthwhile, and check also the intercooler pipe, as it can become squidgy with oil and balloon under acceleration, dulling performance - a metal replacement from the BMW 5 series can be made to fit.
Vital to check the Shanon tube under the n/s wheelarch, as it rots and falls off, leaving the air intake pointing down towards the road where it can ingest stones and water with disastrous results. New ones are a fortune, just use 70mm neoprene hose from eBay for £10.
If the car refuses to start with less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel, the in tank pump has failed - the pump from a Peogeot 406 fits in the in-tank carrier, and only costs approx £30.
Cooling fan issues do not require the de-gassing of the aircon etc, instead the cooling fan shroud can be carefully cut around the aircon pipes to remove.
This one has viton rings, the originals had swelled up. Also had a new intercooler pipe in February, as you said, the old one had become saturated with oil.
The Shanon tube is a new one on me though, was that a V6 issue? The intake on the diesel runs from the top of the radiator grille, through ducting over the engine into the air box at the back, by the plenum. I’ve recall hearing about the Shanon tube being mentioned, but not sure if that was in KV6 circles..?
Muddle238 said:
All valid points. I have no experience of owning a V6 version, although I would like to try one at some point. The diesel suits my needs though as usually I’d ask the car to be doing circa 20-25,000 miles per annum. The main disadvantage of the diesel is the soundtrack, something that a V6 would address.
This one has viton rings, the originals had swelled up. Also had a new intercooler pipe in February, as you said, the old one had become saturated with oil.
The Shanon tube is a new one on me though, was that a V6 issue? The intake on the diesel runs from the top of the radiator grille, through ducting over the engine into the air box at the back, by the plenum. I’ve recall hearing about the Shanon tube being mentioned, but not sure if that was in KV6 circles..?
Shannon tube was V6 only afaik. For more air to the filter, chop the inlet trunking off at the engine cover. This one has viton rings, the originals had swelled up. Also had a new intercooler pipe in February, as you said, the old one had become saturated with oil.
The Shanon tube is a new one on me though, was that a V6 issue? The intake on the diesel runs from the top of the radiator grille, through ducting over the engine into the air box at the back, by the plenum. I’ve recall hearing about the Shanon tube being mentioned, but not sure if that was in KV6 circles..?
Ours has no cat and sounds ovely at low revs, almost a V8 burble for a diesel.
Well a loud, metallic twang at 1am on a Tuesday morning could only mean one thing; a broken spring. The next morning the ride height was suspiciously low on the front offside corner, after jacking up the car and securing it on axle stands I found the final top coil wrapped round the damper ram, along with the bearing and rubber isolator.
Annoyingly, the car was booked in to visit the Rover guru, Jules, in just three weeks’ time to have new top mounts and front springs. Doubly annoying, the spring had broken at the top in such a way that the broken shard was pressing into the turret, loosing the ability to steer and therefore drive. Luckily, I had no requirement to use the car for four weeks...
I decided it would be best to source a pair of quality road springs, along with new top mounts and bearings. I would endeavour to replace the broken spring on the driveway, then move the car to Jules’ to get it all sorted. Unfortunately, the strut-to-hub pinch bolt was both seized solid and rounded off, so the strut had to come off with the hub. After a few days soaking in plusgas, all nuts and bolts came undone quite happily. Strut removed and placed upon a temporary bench, the spring was holding onto the edge of the top mount merely by a thin layer of flaking rust. A basic set of compressors were quickly attached and took the strain in case the spring slipped, before the old top mount and spring were removed.
However, my basic compressors weren’t man enough to compress the new spring sufficiently to refit it along with new top mount. With failing daylight, the whole strut was lobbed in the back of our Series 2 Land Rover and taken to a local garage, who subsequently very kindly assembled the new spring and top mount using their hydraulic compressor, for free! Unfortunately, after I got home I realised the bearing wasn’t sitting quite right; the garage chaps hadn’t quite centred the bearing and as a result it wasn’t flush on the top mount. However, the inner race still turned by hand, so I figured it would be sufficient to get to Jules’. As it would turn out, that was the least of my worries...
Car reassembled, fast forward a few weeks...
It’s been said before, but you always know you’re in the right place when the woods are full of Rovers! A beautiful sunny day in North Wales beckoned. I even found a fellow BRG Tourer to park next to. Almost 300,000 miles collectively between these two.
Jules wasted no time getting my Tourer on the ramp. Within an hour or so, the nearside strut and hub were on the bench. Like the offside, the pinch bolt was seized and rounded. As long as we didn’t need a new damper, it didn’t matter particularly. Remember I mentioned my local garage not quite getting the bearing centred? Well this is what it was like on the nearside...
This was fitted by another local garage to me about three years ago, it was so far from centred that the inner race was cutting through the damper ram bush. I’m also not convinced they replaced the top mounts either, given the fact they look like they’ve been in the ocean for three years. This is why I exclusively bring my 75 to Colwyn Bay now, Jules has ended up fixing so many issues “fixed” by other garages, he knows which brands produce parts made from cheese and which are decent, he doesn’t cut corners and if he finds an issue or a problem, he almost certainly has the part in stock to sort it there and then.
Unfortunately on this occasion, it was at this point he discovered one of those little issues, little being that the nearside damper was completely knackered. Remember I mentioned that seized pinch bolt? Yeah.
No problem however, we are in safe hands here. It appears there is a solution for everything, the solution here being to whisk the whole strut/hub assembly away in the nearest functioning 75 to the Windsor chaps down the road, who have excellent persuasion skills with knackered bolts. Half an hour later, the strut reappears, hub separated, ready for the reassembly. At the same time, the decision is made to replace both front dampers with new TRW units, along with the new front Supaflex springs from X-Part and top mounts and new bearings, also from X-Part.
By 4pm it’s all back together, feeling fresh and without me being so concerned that a rusty old spring is about snap and take out the tyre!
As the car has ticked over 145k miles, I’ve given it a full service; oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter, crankcase breather filter, topped up other levels and generally tidied up a few loose ends.
As the winter wheels were put away for summer, I inspected the summer set on Pirelli’s and decided they could do with replacing. Four brand new Continental Premium Contact 6 take their place in 195/65R15 guise, at £68 a corner fitted and balanced, they’re another joy of small wheels! Cheapness in comfort.
To finish off, a replacement enamel rear badge was fitted in place of a fast-fading gel thing, from a chap in the 75/ZT community. Small details like this do help finish off the car, it can’t always be the expensive oily and springy bits that nobody sees...
Annoyingly, the car was booked in to visit the Rover guru, Jules, in just three weeks’ time to have new top mounts and front springs. Doubly annoying, the spring had broken at the top in such a way that the broken shard was pressing into the turret, loosing the ability to steer and therefore drive. Luckily, I had no requirement to use the car for four weeks...
I decided it would be best to source a pair of quality road springs, along with new top mounts and bearings. I would endeavour to replace the broken spring on the driveway, then move the car to Jules’ to get it all sorted. Unfortunately, the strut-to-hub pinch bolt was both seized solid and rounded off, so the strut had to come off with the hub. After a few days soaking in plusgas, all nuts and bolts came undone quite happily. Strut removed and placed upon a temporary bench, the spring was holding onto the edge of the top mount merely by a thin layer of flaking rust. A basic set of compressors were quickly attached and took the strain in case the spring slipped, before the old top mount and spring were removed.
However, my basic compressors weren’t man enough to compress the new spring sufficiently to refit it along with new top mount. With failing daylight, the whole strut was lobbed in the back of our Series 2 Land Rover and taken to a local garage, who subsequently very kindly assembled the new spring and top mount using their hydraulic compressor, for free! Unfortunately, after I got home I realised the bearing wasn’t sitting quite right; the garage chaps hadn’t quite centred the bearing and as a result it wasn’t flush on the top mount. However, the inner race still turned by hand, so I figured it would be sufficient to get to Jules’. As it would turn out, that was the least of my worries...
Car reassembled, fast forward a few weeks...
It’s been said before, but you always know you’re in the right place when the woods are full of Rovers! A beautiful sunny day in North Wales beckoned. I even found a fellow BRG Tourer to park next to. Almost 300,000 miles collectively between these two.
Jules wasted no time getting my Tourer on the ramp. Within an hour or so, the nearside strut and hub were on the bench. Like the offside, the pinch bolt was seized and rounded. As long as we didn’t need a new damper, it didn’t matter particularly. Remember I mentioned my local garage not quite getting the bearing centred? Well this is what it was like on the nearside...
This was fitted by another local garage to me about three years ago, it was so far from centred that the inner race was cutting through the damper ram bush. I’m also not convinced they replaced the top mounts either, given the fact they look like they’ve been in the ocean for three years. This is why I exclusively bring my 75 to Colwyn Bay now, Jules has ended up fixing so many issues “fixed” by other garages, he knows which brands produce parts made from cheese and which are decent, he doesn’t cut corners and if he finds an issue or a problem, he almost certainly has the part in stock to sort it there and then.
Unfortunately on this occasion, it was at this point he discovered one of those little issues, little being that the nearside damper was completely knackered. Remember I mentioned that seized pinch bolt? Yeah.
No problem however, we are in safe hands here. It appears there is a solution for everything, the solution here being to whisk the whole strut/hub assembly away in the nearest functioning 75 to the Windsor chaps down the road, who have excellent persuasion skills with knackered bolts. Half an hour later, the strut reappears, hub separated, ready for the reassembly. At the same time, the decision is made to replace both front dampers with new TRW units, along with the new front Supaflex springs from X-Part and top mounts and new bearings, also from X-Part.
By 4pm it’s all back together, feeling fresh and without me being so concerned that a rusty old spring is about snap and take out the tyre!
As the car has ticked over 145k miles, I’ve given it a full service; oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter, crankcase breather filter, topped up other levels and generally tidied up a few loose ends.
As the winter wheels were put away for summer, I inspected the summer set on Pirelli’s and decided they could do with replacing. Four brand new Continental Premium Contact 6 take their place in 195/65R15 guise, at £68 a corner fitted and balanced, they’re another joy of small wheels! Cheapness in comfort.
To finish off, a replacement enamel rear badge was fitted in place of a fast-fading gel thing, from a chap in the 75/ZT community. Small details like this do help finish off the car, it can’t always be the expensive oily and springy bits that nobody sees...
Love updates like this!
We are very lucky to have had no broken front springs in the 4 plus years we have had ours, though have fitted both rears since. I might put a pair of front shocks in at some point if it feels like it needs it, has the Nivomats in the back and those are just fine thank god at about 300 quid a pop!
Jesus only 145k on her, ours has about 245
We are very lucky to have had no broken front springs in the 4 plus years we have had ours, though have fitted both rears since. I might put a pair of front shocks in at some point if it feels like it needs it, has the Nivomats in the back and those are just fine thank god at about 300 quid a pop!
Jesus only 145k on her, ours has about 245
245k, well done, Sir! I’m aiming for the big 200k, but given that she gets whatever she needs she needs it, I can’t see why quarter of a million or beyond would be unobtainable...
A front spring going is nothing short of a PITA, I was lucky that mine went A) while I am still furloughed so I had no rush to get it sorted immediately, and B) broke at the top so there was no risk of the (literally brand new!) tyre being destroyed. I assume you have the tyre protectors fitted, just in case?
A front spring going is nothing short of a PITA, I was lucky that mine went A) while I am still furloughed so I had no rush to get it sorted immediately, and B) broke at the top so there was no risk of the (literally brand new!) tyre being destroyed. I assume you have the tyre protectors fitted, just in case?
Muddle238 said:
245k, well done, Sir! I’m aiming for the big 200k, but given that she gets whatever she needs she needs it, I can’t see why quarter of a million or beyond would be unobtainable...
A front spring going is nothing short of a PITA, I was lucky that mine went A) while I am still furloughed so I had no rush to get it sorted immediately, and B) broke at the top so there was no risk of the (literally brand new!) tyre being destroyed. I assume you have the tyre protectors fitted, just in case?
It's my parents' car, I just chose it and look after it!A front spring going is nothing short of a PITA, I was lucky that mine went A) while I am still furloughed so I had no rush to get it sorted immediately, and B) broke at the top so there was no risk of the (literally brand new!) tyre being destroyed. I assume you have the tyre protectors fitted, just in case?
I think it has protectors, like clear plastic sheathing over the bottom of the springs
mercedeslimos said:
It's my parents' car, I just chose it and look after it!
I think it has protectors, like clear plastic sheathing over the bottom of the springs
Tyre protectors are metal plates that bolt to the bottom of the spring cup on the strut, they have a lip which is designed to retain the spring should it break - without them the spring is likely to embed itself in the tyre! I think it has protectors, like clear plastic sheathing over the bottom of the springs
You can get a pair for about £20 I believe, worth having if they prevent a catastrophic motorway blowout...
End of Summer '21 update; an expensive year of Rovering!
As we approach the final couple of months of 2021, there's plenty of reflection to be had on the past year running the "shed" 75. In all fairness, this car is no longer a shed, despite being originally acquired years ago as a shed.
Despite the relatively tidy exterior and interior on this car, the bit inbetween always let it down; the sills and door shuts. The original ROVER kick plates had seen their fair share of stone-encrusted shoes and boots over the years, so I decided there was room for improvement by replacing the kick plates with new old stock items and polishing up the paintwork with varying grades of polish and a rotary pad on a drill.
Before
During
After. They scrubbed up well for something approaching 150k and 18 years old.
For the many faults and criticisms of Rover Group and MG Rover, you cannot fault their paint; they knew how to paint a car. The quality and thickness of the paint even in the door jams is still impressive, it puts many contemporary manufacturers to shame.
One for the "Parking next to the same model" thread, a quick visit to B&Q to find some 8ft lengths of timber revealed another 75 enthusiast also lurking in the wild. We chatted for a while, in fact I found another 75 lurking in the wild last week; the owner also only too happy to have a chat about Rovers! It's always pleasant to find like-minded individuals out there, most folk seem to dismiss these cars on a whim.
Every so often, life throws a curve ball. Spot what's wrong with this 75 (no, the fact it's not in a scrapyard is not the correct answer!)
Bugger. I'd noticed for a while that the mirror housing was slightly loose on the mounting, nothing major, just a little play. While washing the car, it became apparent that the looseness rating had evolved from slightly to majorly, before I knew it I had amputated the mirror from the car merely by holding it, left attached only by the wiring for the electric adjustment and heating elements.
The timing was slightly awkward, as once I'd finished cleaning the car I was due at the local (10 miles away type local..) Covid-19 vaccination centre for my jab, something I didn't really want to miss or postpone. With the mirror dangling on the bodywork, there was no way I would be driving it like that..
Luckily, I knew that in my spares department I had a couple of spare mirrors. It wouldn't match the other side but the main focus was simply to sort a repair and get my jab. Drop the window, pull the anti-pinch trim off and remove a single screw from the door card. That gives you access to the three 8mm bolts that secure the mount to the outside of the door, whip these out (without dropping any down inside the door card), unclip the electrical connector and you're half way.
As the Haynes book of suggestions would say, replacement is the reverse of removal. A spare mirror was fitted in place and I made it to my jab with time to spare. I swapped the green/chrome mirror covers over a week later or so, just to regain some form of symmetry. I later inspected the broken mirror to investigate the cause of failure, it seemed there was metal fatigue in the mechanism that allows it to fold. My guess it that the mirror had been smacked at some point in its life, weakening the metal ring, either in a car park or out on the road. I often fold the mirrors when parked so I assume the folding motion over the years accelerated the fatigue of the metal ring that eventually failed. Another reason why I always like having spare parts in the garage.
Next up we launched into some major driveway works/re-landscaping at home, so the 75 was relegated to whichever spare bit of garden or driveway we could find, to avoid being in the way of diggers, dumpers and wheelbarrows.
New parking areas now in use, plus redesigned access in and out of the driveway; something we'd intended doing for a long time, really pleased it's now done. We didn't plan on doing it this year originally, but glad we did. Makes entering/leaving a bit more interesting that the previous driveway.
The old Traction in the background has now found a new home too, which means the 75 can live indoors now, something I'm looking forward to over winter as the frosty mornings start appearing.
Back in June, the car ticked over 150,000 miles. A big mileage to some, a small mileage to others. In 75 CDTi terms, plenty of life left in the old girl yet. 150k meant it was due an interim service, just oil and filter this time, however I use the opportunity to top up any other fluids at the same time and give the car a general once-over.
From memory I use 10-40w and Mahle filters, always an easy job, just slightly tedious! As I type, the car has just rolled over 154k, meaning a "big" service will be due in another 1000 miles; oil and filter again, air filter, fuel filter, PCV filter and the pollen filter. I do a big service every 10k, with interim oil again every 5k, with anything else required as and when it's needed.
So far this year (2021), the car has had a fair old bit of attention, mostly to the front end;
- New lower arm and bush (other side was replaced last year)
- New track rod end recently
- New front springs
- New front dampers
- New strut/hub pinch bolts
- New top mounts and bearings
- New front discs and pads (rear discs and pads replaced last year along with a brake fluid change and rear wheel bearing)
- Replacement sill jacking pad (they occasionally fall off...)
- At least three headlamp bulbs..
- Rear door cards fixed so they no longer rattle
- Front footwell courtesy lights added
- Replacement door mirror
Recently I also discovered that my in-tank fuel pump has likely given up, as I can no longer hear it whirring away. This means the under-bonnet pump is taking up the strain, something which cannot be left unresolved forever, however it does mean in the interim until it's sorted that I must keep the fuel level above 1/4 of a tank. Anything less and the car will fail to proceed, with the recent fuel panic-buying and subsequent shortages, not the ideal time to have lost a fuel pump! The car is due up to see Jules in about three weeks, so it'll be sorted then. The car still drives, just I must remember to keep a reasonable amount of fuel onboard. I've adjusted my work commute to avoid a majority of motorways without hard shoulders for the time being, just in case.
Below was a trip to Yorkshire back in June, glorious weather!
As we approach the final couple of months of 2021, there's plenty of reflection to be had on the past year running the "shed" 75. In all fairness, this car is no longer a shed, despite being originally acquired years ago as a shed.
Despite the relatively tidy exterior and interior on this car, the bit inbetween always let it down; the sills and door shuts. The original ROVER kick plates had seen their fair share of stone-encrusted shoes and boots over the years, so I decided there was room for improvement by replacing the kick plates with new old stock items and polishing up the paintwork with varying grades of polish and a rotary pad on a drill.
Before
During
After. They scrubbed up well for something approaching 150k and 18 years old.
For the many faults and criticisms of Rover Group and MG Rover, you cannot fault their paint; they knew how to paint a car. The quality and thickness of the paint even in the door jams is still impressive, it puts many contemporary manufacturers to shame.
One for the "Parking next to the same model" thread, a quick visit to B&Q to find some 8ft lengths of timber revealed another 75 enthusiast also lurking in the wild. We chatted for a while, in fact I found another 75 lurking in the wild last week; the owner also only too happy to have a chat about Rovers! It's always pleasant to find like-minded individuals out there, most folk seem to dismiss these cars on a whim.
Every so often, life throws a curve ball. Spot what's wrong with this 75 (no, the fact it's not in a scrapyard is not the correct answer!)
Bugger. I'd noticed for a while that the mirror housing was slightly loose on the mounting, nothing major, just a little play. While washing the car, it became apparent that the looseness rating had evolved from slightly to majorly, before I knew it I had amputated the mirror from the car merely by holding it, left attached only by the wiring for the electric adjustment and heating elements.
The timing was slightly awkward, as once I'd finished cleaning the car I was due at the local (10 miles away type local..) Covid-19 vaccination centre for my jab, something I didn't really want to miss or postpone. With the mirror dangling on the bodywork, there was no way I would be driving it like that..
Luckily, I knew that in my spares department I had a couple of spare mirrors. It wouldn't match the other side but the main focus was simply to sort a repair and get my jab. Drop the window, pull the anti-pinch trim off and remove a single screw from the door card. That gives you access to the three 8mm bolts that secure the mount to the outside of the door, whip these out (without dropping any down inside the door card), unclip the electrical connector and you're half way.
As the Haynes book of suggestions would say, replacement is the reverse of removal. A spare mirror was fitted in place and I made it to my jab with time to spare. I swapped the green/chrome mirror covers over a week later or so, just to regain some form of symmetry. I later inspected the broken mirror to investigate the cause of failure, it seemed there was metal fatigue in the mechanism that allows it to fold. My guess it that the mirror had been smacked at some point in its life, weakening the metal ring, either in a car park or out on the road. I often fold the mirrors when parked so I assume the folding motion over the years accelerated the fatigue of the metal ring that eventually failed. Another reason why I always like having spare parts in the garage.
Next up we launched into some major driveway works/re-landscaping at home, so the 75 was relegated to whichever spare bit of garden or driveway we could find, to avoid being in the way of diggers, dumpers and wheelbarrows.
New parking areas now in use, plus redesigned access in and out of the driveway; something we'd intended doing for a long time, really pleased it's now done. We didn't plan on doing it this year originally, but glad we did. Makes entering/leaving a bit more interesting that the previous driveway.
The old Traction in the background has now found a new home too, which means the 75 can live indoors now, something I'm looking forward to over winter as the frosty mornings start appearing.
Back in June, the car ticked over 150,000 miles. A big mileage to some, a small mileage to others. In 75 CDTi terms, plenty of life left in the old girl yet. 150k meant it was due an interim service, just oil and filter this time, however I use the opportunity to top up any other fluids at the same time and give the car a general once-over.
From memory I use 10-40w and Mahle filters, always an easy job, just slightly tedious! As I type, the car has just rolled over 154k, meaning a "big" service will be due in another 1000 miles; oil and filter again, air filter, fuel filter, PCV filter and the pollen filter. I do a big service every 10k, with interim oil again every 5k, with anything else required as and when it's needed.
So far this year (2021), the car has had a fair old bit of attention, mostly to the front end;
- New lower arm and bush (other side was replaced last year)
- New track rod end recently
- New front springs
- New front dampers
- New strut/hub pinch bolts
- New top mounts and bearings
- New front discs and pads (rear discs and pads replaced last year along with a brake fluid change and rear wheel bearing)
- Replacement sill jacking pad (they occasionally fall off...)
- At least three headlamp bulbs..
- Rear door cards fixed so they no longer rattle
- Front footwell courtesy lights added
- Replacement door mirror
Recently I also discovered that my in-tank fuel pump has likely given up, as I can no longer hear it whirring away. This means the under-bonnet pump is taking up the strain, something which cannot be left unresolved forever, however it does mean in the interim until it's sorted that I must keep the fuel level above 1/4 of a tank. Anything less and the car will fail to proceed, with the recent fuel panic-buying and subsequent shortages, not the ideal time to have lost a fuel pump! The car is due up to see Jules in about three weeks, so it'll be sorted then. The car still drives, just I must remember to keep a reasonable amount of fuel onboard. I've adjusted my work commute to avoid a majority of motorways without hard shoulders for the time being, just in case.
Below was a trip to Yorkshire back in June, glorious weather!
Very nice. I have a diesel saloon on a 05 and its only done 82k.
I occasionally ponder what I will replace it with and its a difficult question to answer.
I have owned a ZT / 75 for nearly 10 years now and they have both given very little trouble.
This year has been similar to yours:
both front struts (with spring protectors)
Rear back plates, shoes, discs & pads
Front discs & pads
Service - I do it myself on the drive. The diesel is so easy to service as you know
Thermostat as I started to lose coolant through the well known O ring. Bit of a pain to do but has also fixed the cool running without having to think about the R5 mod.
Next year will be rear arms I suspect but the chap I take it to for MOT is always complimentary so I hope for a few more years yet.
I am just weary of its age as I have a 220 coupe turbo as my 'hobby' car and am reuctant to have two cars that I need to keep hitting with the spanners.
Happy for now though
I occasionally ponder what I will replace it with and its a difficult question to answer.
I have owned a ZT / 75 for nearly 10 years now and they have both given very little trouble.
This year has been similar to yours:
both front struts (with spring protectors)
Rear back plates, shoes, discs & pads
Front discs & pads
Service - I do it myself on the drive. The diesel is so easy to service as you know
Thermostat as I started to lose coolant through the well known O ring. Bit of a pain to do but has also fixed the cool running without having to think about the R5 mod.
Next year will be rear arms I suspect but the chap I take it to for MOT is always complimentary so I hope for a few more years yet.
I am just weary of its age as I have a 220 coupe turbo as my 'hobby' car and am reuctant to have two cars that I need to keep hitting with the spanners.
Happy for now though
Great update, thanks for sharing and it definitely is no longer a shed. Perhaps a well-cared for folly or gatehouse, in the traditional landowner sense!
Your maintenance work is naturally very similar to mine over the past few years, even down to the mirror that was broken by a van and I ended up with a spare green one until I swapped over the chrome later.
Very happy to see this one running so well.
On the 'at least three dipped headlight bulbs' - same here but recently OSRAM replacements have lasted a lot longer. A good question for Jules.
Your maintenance work is naturally very similar to mine over the past few years, even down to the mirror that was broken by a van and I ended up with a spare green one until I swapped over the chrome later.
Very happy to see this one running so well.
Muddle238 said:
One for the "Parking next to the same model" thread, a quick visit to B&Q to find some 8ft lengths of timber revealed another 75 enthusiast also lurking in the wild. We chatted for a while, in fact I found another 75 lurking in the wild last week; the owner also only too happy to have a chat about Rovers! It's always pleasant to find like-minded individuals out there, most folk seem to dismiss these cars on a whim.
Woo another facelift tourer in BRG with tuning fork alloys!On the 'at least three dipped headlight bulbs' - same here but recently OSRAM replacements have lasted a lot longer. A good question for Jules.
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