2004 BMW Z4 3.0
Discussion
Slightly more exciting update - did my first trackday.
This was at a very wet Snetterton.
Went out on the sighting lap and expected a slow convoy to assess the track - but the pace was quite a lot quicker than expected. So quick, in fact, that I put too much effort on reading the track and ended up spinning. Quite embarrassing...
https://youtu.be/WpevFZe3HYk
For the rest of the day I decided to leave the stability control in the "Dynamic Traction Control" setting as I didn't spinning it again, or worse still wrecking it.
To start off with I found this rather frustrating as you could feel the systems grabbing each corner of the car's brakes and unsettling it, but as the day went on I got much smoother and found the intervention much less. Net result was no crashes - unlike several other drivers on the day.
Car handled the day well, although being wet you would expect to have a much easier time.
Brakes performance was consistent throughout the day and no fade - which is to be expected with a light(wish) car and large front brakes.
Did get a "warped disc" sensation after about 15 minutes on track which went away after the car cooled down each time - I think that perhaps the (unknown brand) rear pads were overheating from the traction control activations? Not sure.
One of my last laps is here - https://youtu.be/rKqoRsTTC5A
In advance, I'm aware it's very slow. I was focusing on getting the lines and flow right (and not spinning!) not setting fast laps. And I didn't gun it down the straight as I didn't see a point.
In hindsight, for the track conditions my Megane would've been a *much* better car to take. There's always next time...
This was at a very wet Snetterton.
Went out on the sighting lap and expected a slow convoy to assess the track - but the pace was quite a lot quicker than expected. So quick, in fact, that I put too much effort on reading the track and ended up spinning. Quite embarrassing...
https://youtu.be/WpevFZe3HYk
For the rest of the day I decided to leave the stability control in the "Dynamic Traction Control" setting as I didn't spinning it again, or worse still wrecking it.
To start off with I found this rather frustrating as you could feel the systems grabbing each corner of the car's brakes and unsettling it, but as the day went on I got much smoother and found the intervention much less. Net result was no crashes - unlike several other drivers on the day.
Car handled the day well, although being wet you would expect to have a much easier time.
Brakes performance was consistent throughout the day and no fade - which is to be expected with a light(wish) car and large front brakes.
Did get a "warped disc" sensation after about 15 minutes on track which went away after the car cooled down each time - I think that perhaps the (unknown brand) rear pads were overheating from the traction control activations? Not sure.
One of my last laps is here - https://youtu.be/rKqoRsTTC5A
In advance, I'm aware it's very slow. I was focusing on getting the lines and flow right (and not spinning!) not setting fast laps. And I didn't gun it down the straight as I didn't see a point.
In hindsight, for the track conditions my Megane would've been a *much* better car to take. There's always next time...
The car has always used oil, which seemed to be a characteristic of the engine.
Since replacing the rocker gasket and swapping to 5w40 oil, it's been much reduced, but is still there.
The next thing on my list was to swap the CVV - crankcase ventilation valve, PCV, oil separator, breather - whatever you want to to call it.
There are two kits - the "regular" valve and a "cold climate" one that has extra insulation to reduce condensation at low temperatures.
The "cold climate" kit wasn't much more and I bought all the new hoses to go with it, too.
Even from the right angle with the engine at rest you can't see it at all.
After removing the inlet pipework, dipstick, airbox, throttle body & lots of wiring, I removed the old unit using brute force.
Sludging wasn't too bad I don't think, but I'd already destroyed the old one getting it out so onwards
Unfortunately, getting the new unit in was much, much harder.
Not only was it more difficult to delicately install the new part, but the insulation jacket around the CVV makes it much larger.
The guides all said it was do-able with the inlet manifold in situ, you just had to angle it right, so after a couple of hours I tried to be a little more forceful and then, ooops....
Broke the new one!
The guides specifically say if a garage is saying the inlet manifold needs to come off, they are scamming you etc, but I just couldn't do it. So off with the inlet manifold.
Then it was much easier (but still not really "easy) to get the new unit (arrowed) installed. Even if I'd of got it installed in situ, I dread to think how I would've connected the hoses up.
With the inlet manifold off, I needed to think about the inlet manifold gaskets
Not really that bad, although there's some small split on one edge, so they got replaced.
I also cleaned the throttle body and replaced the dipstick o-ring at the same time.
Put it all back together, started it up and after a little hesitation was back to normal. Feeling triumphant, reverse off the drive and the check engine light comes on...
Drove ok but when scanned with INPA had a fault for the tank vent valve and the oil pressure sensor.
When looking online I could see something looked a little different - I'd plugged them in the wrong way round!
Every connector on the wiring I'd removed was keyed differently - except for two sensors right next to each other, with identical connectors.
Swapped it over, cleared the errors and it looks ok so far.
Since replacing the rocker gasket and swapping to 5w40 oil, it's been much reduced, but is still there.
The next thing on my list was to swap the CVV - crankcase ventilation valve, PCV, oil separator, breather - whatever you want to to call it.
There are two kits - the "regular" valve and a "cold climate" one that has extra insulation to reduce condensation at low temperatures.
The "cold climate" kit wasn't much more and I bought all the new hoses to go with it, too.
Even from the right angle with the engine at rest you can't see it at all.
After removing the inlet pipework, dipstick, airbox, throttle body & lots of wiring, I removed the old unit using brute force.
Sludging wasn't too bad I don't think, but I'd already destroyed the old one getting it out so onwards
Unfortunately, getting the new unit in was much, much harder.
Not only was it more difficult to delicately install the new part, but the insulation jacket around the CVV makes it much larger.
The guides all said it was do-able with the inlet manifold in situ, you just had to angle it right, so after a couple of hours I tried to be a little more forceful and then, ooops....
Broke the new one!
The guides specifically say if a garage is saying the inlet manifold needs to come off, they are scamming you etc, but I just couldn't do it. So off with the inlet manifold.
Then it was much easier (but still not really "easy) to get the new unit (arrowed) installed. Even if I'd of got it installed in situ, I dread to think how I would've connected the hoses up.
With the inlet manifold off, I needed to think about the inlet manifold gaskets
Not really that bad, although there's some small split on one edge, so they got replaced.
I also cleaned the throttle body and replaced the dipstick o-ring at the same time.
Put it all back together, started it up and after a little hesitation was back to normal. Feeling triumphant, reverse off the drive and the check engine light comes on...
Drove ok but when scanned with INPA had a fault for the tank vent valve and the oil pressure sensor.
When looking online I could see something looked a little different - I'd plugged them in the wrong way round!
Every connector on the wiring I'd removed was keyed differently - except for two sensors right next to each other, with identical connectors.
Swapped it over, cleared the errors and it looks ok so far.
Edited by Jakg on Sunday 12th January 00:15
Service history said the aux & ac belt were last changed in 2012 and from above they looked a bit cracked.
Initially was struggling to work out how to get them out, but after removing the undertray and working from below it became pretty obvious.
Belts were actually ok after all, but replaced anyway - dated 2011 so time for a replacement.
Initially was struggling to work out how to get them out, but after removing the undertray and working from below it became pretty obvious.
Belts were actually ok after all, but replaced anyway - dated 2011 so time for a replacement.
rooflesstyrant said:
Are you still on runflats even after the suspension upgrade and the trackday? Probably need a dry track day or two to wear out those tyres.
I was kind of hoping the track day would've killed them, but it was too wet! I have some fronts in the right size in the shed waiting. I'm sure I can find a way to wear them out...NorthernSky said:
Oh and as others have said, treat the car to new tyres all round and get them aligned, ditch the runflats. Hopeless on UK potholed roads!
Sticks. said:
I kept my rfts for quite a while. Although getting rid is an improvement, it's nothing like an E46 on mismatched tyres.
Not just tramlining though, the car felt less unsettled my small bumps, more planted, almost lower. In short, like you'd have expected it to.
Not just tramlining though, the car felt less unsettled my small bumps, more planted, almost lower. In short, like you'd have expected it to.
Braintax said:
Like the earlier poster in this thread, my car's steering would tighten up in the summer and it really, really wasn't pleasant. As others have mentioned, the best thing I ever did was to switch to non-runflat tyres, I went through Falken FK452s and Uniroyal Rain Sport 3s, both of which were pretty excellent and really transformed the car.
CousinDupree said:
Great progress. Can't help but think you are still missing a trick though.
Fitting a new set of good tyres is the most cost effective improvement you can make, especially if you are junking runflats.
It's all a bit of a crapshoot until you do that. A new set of F1 Assym 3s transformed my Z4 3.2. Steering, ride, traction, tramlining....
Not expensive either!
Fitting a new set of good tyres is the most cost effective improvement you can make, especially if you are junking runflats.
It's all a bit of a crapshoot until you do that. A new set of F1 Assym 3s transformed my Z4 3.2. Steering, ride, traction, tramlining....
Not expensive either!
rooflesstyrant said:
Are you still on runflats even after the suspension upgrade and the trackday? Probably need a dry track day or two to wear out those tyres.
Can you sense a consensus?Runflats have gone, now on a set of Vredestein Ultrac Vorti's. Used Vredesteins for years and really rate them.
Tramlining disappeared, and ride is better.
Getting the tyres fitted was a bit of a disaster, though. I've used the same tyre fitters for years - they used to do decent prices on tyres, but they started quoting silly prices (i.e. £50 a corner more than I could buy online) but were happy to fit ones I supplied. A while ago I went in and the boss served me, who moaned the entire time about how I was supplying tyres and it left a really sour taste. But later they were fine.
Four tyres won't fit in a Z4 (I could get one in the boot, one in the front) so a friend dropped the other two off and I got served by the boss again - as soon as I mentioned I had tyres, he signed and demanded to see the car, see the wheels, see the tyres, moaned about me supplying tyres and was just generally difficult. And then said it'd be £20+VAT a corner - normally it's £10!
If I could've put the tyres back in the car I'd of left then and there but I was stuck so had to put up with it.
2 and a half hours later the cars done, and I immediately notice some damage on the wheel. The boss is a bit evasive about letting me look at the car before paying and when I mention what I've seen, out comes the sighs again
By fluke I had a picture of the wheel from the other day
And now
At the top there's clearly a fresh bit of impact damage that's gone through the lacquer, and then the rest of the lacquer has started to peel.
They couldn't claim they hadn't done it, so then the paint finish on the wheels was blamed. Couldn't really argue the point so now I'm stuck.
Overall, left a sour taste and definitely won't be going back.
Moving on...
MOT failed on a drop link split boot so that got changed
Old one
Probably could just've reseated the boot but I've got this far
Always annoying that aftermarket parts use different sized bolts to standard ones - half way through an 18mm spanner had to be slimmed down to counter hold.
Shiny new one fitted
Got a chip in the windscreen and it turns out I don't have windscreen cover - ooops.
AutoGlass wanted £70 to fix a chip (?!?!) so I'd planned on leaving it but I saw someone mention the cheap repair kits and thought I'd try it.
Difficult to photo the before / after but it's done a fantastic job - the piston pushes the resin into the spider cracks so they disappear and there's only a faint mark visible of the centre of the chip. Not bad for a fiver and 20 minutes.
Scanning with INPA showed a fault code for one of the cylinder so after swapping coilpacks around to diagnose, two new ones were fitted.
Finally, it's got another driveway friend
I now have two very different 6 cylinder BMWs - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Also, you can tell I really need to wash cars more often.
Edited by Jakg on Wednesday 24th August 10:10
C70R said:
Can you share a link for the windscreen chip kit you used? I have a very annoying one that isn't quite an MOT failure, and I quite like the idea of spending a couple of quid on an 'ok' fix.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Premium-Car-Windscreen-Repair-Kit-Crack-Chip-Windshield-Glass-Window-Screen/153688776924The recommendation I saw on Facebook was from someone who bought the same kit in Asda for about a fiver if you prefer to shop local.
Sycamore said:
Could you shine some light on the cable you use to connect the car to INPA?
I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312801859524I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
The switch swaps two pins and that is the key I think - I had a similar unit before where I added the switch myself and after that it worked on my MG ZT & the Z4. This is probably why yours isn't working?
Plus you need the right version of the software (I think the version included is ok), and to ensure that the COM ports are configured correctly (i.e. that the interface software is pointing at the COM port associated with the cable).
Was driving along a while ago and the battery light came on and lost power steering.
Thought it was just lack of use, so took it out later and it was fine.
Stopped on the way back to make a phone call and noticed the roof wouldn't go up. And then the power steering stopped working again.
Very luckily I wasn't far from home, started to run poorly before eventually conking out on the drive.
Although it was on the drive, unfortunately it was blocking my other car - and had the roof down - so I tried jumping it and it started fine.
With the engine running, the problem is obvious
Airbox out
Alternator off
I thought it'd be a straight replacement, but it was a bit more expensive than I was expecting - the fitment is unique to the Z4, but I suspect any M54 one would fit - even then it was £130 for the cheapest recon unit.
I took a chance and replaced just the voltage regulator for £30.
And sucess
Unfortunately, while poking around I found a suspicious coolant puddle on the undertray
First thought was the expansion tank, so I pulled that out to find out it'd already been replaced in 2015 (that was in the service history, ooops).
I noticed the seals on the expansion tank cap were looking a bit worn out, but that wouldn't explain that much coolant.
Some more poking around and I spotted a little bit of coolant around the temperature sensor
Pulled it out and it looks fine
Having looked online they never leak... unless they've been in there a while, then if they are ever removed they never seal again.
I removed it when doing the VANOS seals so fair enough.
The O-Ring isn't a separate part, and all the measurements I could fine online were imperial, so I got a new one for £15.
I originally thought the leak was from the thermostat above, but although I'd realised it wasn't, I got a brand new Wahler one on eBay for £15 so I thought I'd change it anyway.
The bolts were really rusty, and there was coolant stains around the outside of the gasket so I think it has been leaking for a while, although probably not badly. And obviously new bolts too.
Baby monitor makes nap time, car time
Put it all back together, trying to bleed the system and the stupid plastic bleed screw rounded
I get why it's plastic, and i'm probably guilty of overtightening it slightly, but I think the real problem is that I don't know what tool is best to use on it.
It's a cross head, but no depth so you can't use a crosshead screwdriver.
And if you use a flat head it needs to be really wide but also thin to fit in the grooves without putting the torque in the weak centre.
I borrowed the one off my 335d to bleed it and then replaced both cars with brass ones
I've bled the system before but this time I wasn't happy with the heat coming out of the vents, it was probably the scare stories of the M54 being difficult to bleed.
One suggestion was to raise the front - I couldn't be bothered to jack it up so found a nearby incline instead.
I think the drive probably did the job though as it was fine when I got there!
I worked out how many miles it's done this year and i'm genuinely embarrassed… need to drive it more, pandemic dependant.
Thought it was just lack of use, so took it out later and it was fine.
Stopped on the way back to make a phone call and noticed the roof wouldn't go up. And then the power steering stopped working again.
Very luckily I wasn't far from home, started to run poorly before eventually conking out on the drive.
Although it was on the drive, unfortunately it was blocking my other car - and had the roof down - so I tried jumping it and it started fine.
With the engine running, the problem is obvious
Airbox out
Alternator off
I thought it'd be a straight replacement, but it was a bit more expensive than I was expecting - the fitment is unique to the Z4, but I suspect any M54 one would fit - even then it was £130 for the cheapest recon unit.
I took a chance and replaced just the voltage regulator for £30.
And sucess
Unfortunately, while poking around I found a suspicious coolant puddle on the undertray
First thought was the expansion tank, so I pulled that out to find out it'd already been replaced in 2015 (that was in the service history, ooops).
I noticed the seals on the expansion tank cap were looking a bit worn out, but that wouldn't explain that much coolant.
Some more poking around and I spotted a little bit of coolant around the temperature sensor
Pulled it out and it looks fine
Having looked online they never leak... unless they've been in there a while, then if they are ever removed they never seal again.
I removed it when doing the VANOS seals so fair enough.
The O-Ring isn't a separate part, and all the measurements I could fine online were imperial, so I got a new one for £15.
I originally thought the leak was from the thermostat above, but although I'd realised it wasn't, I got a brand new Wahler one on eBay for £15 so I thought I'd change it anyway.
The bolts were really rusty, and there was coolant stains around the outside of the gasket so I think it has been leaking for a while, although probably not badly. And obviously new bolts too.
Baby monitor makes nap time, car time
Put it all back together, trying to bleed the system and the stupid plastic bleed screw rounded
I get why it's plastic, and i'm probably guilty of overtightening it slightly, but I think the real problem is that I don't know what tool is best to use on it.
It's a cross head, but no depth so you can't use a crosshead screwdriver.
And if you use a flat head it needs to be really wide but also thin to fit in the grooves without putting the torque in the weak centre.
I borrowed the one off my 335d to bleed it and then replaced both cars with brass ones
I've bled the system before but this time I wasn't happy with the heat coming out of the vents, it was probably the scare stories of the M54 being difficult to bleed.
One suggestion was to raise the front - I couldn't be bothered to jack it up so found a nearby incline instead.
I think the drive probably did the job though as it was fine when I got there!
I worked out how many miles it's done this year and i'm genuinely embarrassed… need to drive it more, pandemic dependant.
Edited by Jakg on Saturday 27th January 20:19
The wipers never parked properly and always ended up a little way up the screen.
It's a common fault - usually fixed by cleaning the contacts on the wiper motor, but I did this a while ago and it didn't help.
Remembered I still hadn't resolved it so swapped the relay over which seems to have fixed it.
Finding the relays was a little tricky - the fusebox is behind the glovebox, and the relays are on the back, but are only accessible once you remove a couple of screws and the whole thing drops down.
My wifes been driving my E91 a lot more and while it has a spare key, the (rechargeable) battery is dead. I can't solder, so sent it off to someone on eBay to replace. Same situation for the Z4 so did both.
The spare was missing the BMW badge so bought one on eBay.
It made the original key look shabby so I swapped that too. I used some superglue to help hold it, but every time I use superglue I always end up gluing myself to something - and this was no exception!
Despite all the work last time, the coolant light came on again, quick look and I still have a problem...
The coolant was only on the expansion tank - so probably that.
Pulled it out for a proper look but couldn't see anything. I've mentioned before it was swapped in 2015 - seems to be one of those "OE with the logo ground off parts".
Swapped it for a new Meyle one anyway - just a shame that was just £31, but I then spent £25 on coolant again - should've swapped it last time!
Hopefully that cures it.
Also put some fuel in for the first time this year... need to get it out more!
It's a common fault - usually fixed by cleaning the contacts on the wiper motor, but I did this a while ago and it didn't help.
Remembered I still hadn't resolved it so swapped the relay over which seems to have fixed it.
Finding the relays was a little tricky - the fusebox is behind the glovebox, and the relays are on the back, but are only accessible once you remove a couple of screws and the whole thing drops down.
My wifes been driving my E91 a lot more and while it has a spare key, the (rechargeable) battery is dead. I can't solder, so sent it off to someone on eBay to replace. Same situation for the Z4 so did both.
The spare was missing the BMW badge so bought one on eBay.
It made the original key look shabby so I swapped that too. I used some superglue to help hold it, but every time I use superglue I always end up gluing myself to something - and this was no exception!
Despite all the work last time, the coolant light came on again, quick look and I still have a problem...
The coolant was only on the expansion tank - so probably that.
Pulled it out for a proper look but couldn't see anything. I've mentioned before it was swapped in 2015 - seems to be one of those "OE with the logo ground off parts".
Swapped it for a new Meyle one anyway - just a shame that was just £31, but I then spent £25 on coolant again - should've swapped it last time!
Hopefully that cures it.
Also put some fuel in for the first time this year... need to get it out more!
The interior light was always a bit intermittent, the circuit board inside was a bit distorted. Luckily an E46 part so very cheap.
New spark plugs
Saw a tip online about greasing the shifter pivot bearing.
The leather on the handbrake gaiter wasn't seated correctly and wasn't folded over. I took it to bits and saw a cable tie and thought "oh no, someone's bodged this before", but it turns out that's how it is from the factory - easy to cut it off, reseat and replace though at least.
The door pull trims are a chromed plastic with a matt layer over the top.
Mine have some scratches, but I couldn't seem to find any second hand and are too expensive new to justify.
I saw some recommended from AliExpress and I thought I'd give them a go for £30 - I was nervous the "aluminium" finish might look cheap so went for the carbon option (they are just dipped plastic).
Bit garish up close but blends in well with the rest of the interior.
New spark plugs
Saw a tip online about greasing the shifter pivot bearing.
The leather on the handbrake gaiter wasn't seated correctly and wasn't folded over. I took it to bits and saw a cable tie and thought "oh no, someone's bodged this before", but it turns out that's how it is from the factory - easy to cut it off, reseat and replace though at least.
The door pull trims are a chromed plastic with a matt layer over the top.
Mine have some scratches, but I couldn't seem to find any second hand and are too expensive new to justify.
I saw some recommended from AliExpress and I thought I'd give them a go for £30 - I was nervous the "aluminium" finish might look cheap so went for the carbon option (they are just dipped plastic).
Bit garish up close but blends in well with the rest of the interior.
Edited by Jakg on Wednesday 24th August 10:13
The centre caps were trashed, so I thought I'd try a £5 set off eBay - quite impressed for the price.
I do a lot of driving on country roads and find that fog lights help to illuminate verges at night, so I wired up a previous car so that when the main beam comes on, the front fogs do too - there I used a relay but the wiring wasn't simple.
Spurred on by a post on here, I had a look at a wiring diagram and realised I could do it on the Z4 using a diode between two wires between the light switch module and the fusebox/relays.
Removed the light switch module and got the wiring out so I could test it
All wrapped up
Net result - the fogs work independently as before, but when you put the main beam on they come on too
I do a lot of driving on country roads and find that fog lights help to illuminate verges at night, so I wired up a previous car so that when the main beam comes on, the front fogs do too - there I used a relay but the wiring wasn't simple.
Spurred on by a post on here, I had a look at a wiring diagram and realised I could do it on the Z4 using a diode between two wires between the light switch module and the fusebox/relays.
Removed the light switch module and got the wiring out so I could test it
All wrapped up
Net result - the fogs work independently as before, but when you put the main beam on they come on too
Jakg said:
Moved it.
After years of working on the drive I was super excited to finally get a garage - I had one years ago but never measured it before moving in and realised only the first 15 feet of the car would fit!Edited by Jakg on Friday 2nd July 19:36
Unfortunately, despite being a double, there's not loads of space with tools and a car in there and I've already dropped something on it so I'm trying a car cover - we'll see how annoying it gets for a car I'd like to be using weekly!
I took advantage of an eBay offer and got a new rubber inlet hose - they tear and unmetered air gets in which doesn't help the engine running. I've checked mine before and it looked ok, but this was cheap enough I thought I'd change it.
On the plus side, having access to all of your tools a few steps away is very handy, although the garage needs a lot more lighting.
I removed the airbox/DISA to get it out, although apparently you can do it in situ.
I dropped a bolt, and rather than it disappearing into the gravel, never to be seen again, it was just sitting on the floor. Bliss!
Looking critically, there were some small tears but they didn't look too bad.
Having put it back together though, there's a noticeable difference.
It used to take a few seconds for the idle to level out when it'd been left for a while and that's gone, and I'm sure it sounds better too - but this is probably more noise coming through the sound generator than anything functional.
When I first got it, it was a right pain to fill with fuel - it'd click off after a couple of litres and would only take fuel at a funny angle.
It seemed to get better over time but it still clicks off every now and again and I'd seen online a faulty fuel vent valve solenoid could cause this, so I swapped it as they are cheap and easy to get to.
The next time I tried to start it, the battery was flat so I put it on charge.
Next time I came to use it, it was a bit rough when starting but figured it was lack of use, but it didn't really clear up and sounded like it was running on 5 cylinders.
Luckily had some tools with me, INPA confirmed a misfire, but when I swapped the coilpacks around the fault codes didn't come back but was still running badly.
Was half hoping it was a battery issue, but thought I'd try cleaning up the idle air control valve first as at idle was where it was worst.
Removed from the car, cleaned with brake cleaner and then left to soak in oil to lubricate it internally.
It was dirty, but not enough to cause a real problem - but as I was working near the intake I was getting a strong smell of fuel...
I'd noticed one of the hoses coming off the fuel vent solenoid seemed to have a lot of slack, a quick tug and it became apparent why
Yep, I'd pulled it off the other end, which was causing the running issues.
Still, how hard can reattaching a hose be, right?
It slides onto a nipple on the back of the inlet manifold - which is inaccessible when installed. When Googling lots of people seem to have this problem when fitting a new solenoid.
I could *just* get my fingers on the nipple with the throttle body removed, but I couldn't see what I was doing, let alone slide the hose on, but it was frustratingly close for an hour.
I refused to remove the inlet manifold fully as it was getting late so I removed some more bits enough to pop it up a bit, and I got the hose on in a couple of seconds (albeit still blind).
3 hours of frustrating garage time later and it's running fine again.
It seemed to get better over time but it still clicks off every now and again and I'd seen online a faulty fuel vent valve solenoid could cause this, so I swapped it as they are cheap and easy to get to.
The next time I tried to start it, the battery was flat so I put it on charge.
Next time I came to use it, it was a bit rough when starting but figured it was lack of use, but it didn't really clear up and sounded like it was running on 5 cylinders.
Luckily had some tools with me, INPA confirmed a misfire, but when I swapped the coilpacks around the fault codes didn't come back but was still running badly.
Was half hoping it was a battery issue, but thought I'd try cleaning up the idle air control valve first as at idle was where it was worst.
Removed from the car, cleaned with brake cleaner and then left to soak in oil to lubricate it internally.
It was dirty, but not enough to cause a real problem - but as I was working near the intake I was getting a strong smell of fuel...
I'd noticed one of the hoses coming off the fuel vent solenoid seemed to have a lot of slack, a quick tug and it became apparent why
Yep, I'd pulled it off the other end, which was causing the running issues.
Still, how hard can reattaching a hose be, right?
It slides onto a nipple on the back of the inlet manifold - which is inaccessible when installed. When Googling lots of people seem to have this problem when fitting a new solenoid.
I could *just* get my fingers on the nipple with the throttle body removed, but I couldn't see what I was doing, let alone slide the hose on, but it was frustratingly close for an hour.
I refused to remove the inlet manifold fully as it was getting late so I removed some more bits enough to pop it up a bit, and I got the hose on in a couple of seconds (albeit still blind).
3 hours of frustrating garage time later and it's running fine again.
Cars been getting quite lazy to unlock - I thought it was the lock mechs so I'd put it off because I didn't want to dismantle the doors.
Saw a mention of the GM5 module (body ECU) online - apparently the relays fail, causing the same symptoms.
Out it comes...
Send to a bloke on eBay who replaced the relays and all good now
Winter, lockdowns, WFH, messing around in the garage etc has left me with a flat battery a couple of times. My favourite being getting the car stuck just outside of the garage, unable to close the garage door, in the rain, needing to go out, and trying desperately to push it back inside uphill before digging out the jump leads...
I've got a trickle charger, but connecting it was a pain so I never used it.
It's an old Banner that uses the TM71 connector - while I couldn't use the Ctek quick comfort connectors everyone raves about, I could use the Optimate equivalent. Mounted in the boot direct the battery, with the boot closed on the cable it seals nicely.
I've previously extended the 12v lead so for now it runs into the roof and then drops down for the car.
I can guarantee I'll drive off with it connected so I've wrapped it in foil / blue tape to make it more visible.
Now officially a garage queen...
Long term my garage needs sorting out, more sockets etc - but it'll do for now.
Saw a mention of the GM5 module (body ECU) online - apparently the relays fail, causing the same symptoms.
Out it comes...
Send to a bloke on eBay who replaced the relays and all good now
Winter, lockdowns, WFH, messing around in the garage etc has left me with a flat battery a couple of times. My favourite being getting the car stuck just outside of the garage, unable to close the garage door, in the rain, needing to go out, and trying desperately to push it back inside uphill before digging out the jump leads...
I've got a trickle charger, but connecting it was a pain so I never used it.
It's an old Banner that uses the TM71 connector - while I couldn't use the Ctek quick comfort connectors everyone raves about, I could use the Optimate equivalent. Mounted in the boot direct the battery, with the boot closed on the cable it seals nicely.
I've previously extended the 12v lead so for now it runs into the roof and then drops down for the car.
I can guarantee I'll drive off with it connected so I've wrapped it in foil / blue tape to make it more visible.
Now officially a garage queen...
Long term my garage needs sorting out, more sockets etc - but it'll do for now.
I've fitted hidden USB chargers for phones in various cars, I usually use these as they can be hidden and charge at a decent speed. Plus they are like £3.
The car came with one already fitted for a centre console USB port, I added another wired off this.
But they don't support fast charge (i.e. my iPhone will take a max of 10w).
I was looking for a USB C equivalent that'd support fast charge - I looked everywhere for a module I could hide, but I just couldn't find one.
I found some panel mount ones but after buying one found out it needs to be turned on first... every time. So that was out.
Eventually I gave up and went for the simple option - a panel mount 12v socket and a cigarette lighter USB C adaptor.
I fitted it in the glovebox. Panel mount was a bit tricky as there's not much space in the Z4 behind the glovebox
Careful positioning later and when closed it fits around the fusebox and dash supports
And fitted
Now I can charge my phone at 15w
And as a bonus, I can charge my USB-C MacBook as well (albeit at 18w)
(this is actually taken in my 335d, but I've done the same job on both cars...)
The car came with one already fitted for a centre console USB port, I added another wired off this.
But they don't support fast charge (i.e. my iPhone will take a max of 10w).
I was looking for a USB C equivalent that'd support fast charge - I looked everywhere for a module I could hide, but I just couldn't find one.
I found some panel mount ones but after buying one found out it needs to be turned on first... every time. So that was out.
Eventually I gave up and went for the simple option - a panel mount 12v socket and a cigarette lighter USB C adaptor.
I fitted it in the glovebox. Panel mount was a bit tricky as there's not much space in the Z4 behind the glovebox
Careful positioning later and when closed it fits around the fusebox and dash supports
And fitted
Now I can charge my phone at 15w
And as a bonus, I can charge my USB-C MacBook as well (albeit at 18w)
(this is actually taken in my 335d, but I've done the same job on both cars...)
The brake fluid reservoir has an integrated level sensor, the sensor is glued to the reservoir itself. Only mine wasn't glued anymore...
The reservoirs are available separately but I couldn't find one at a reasonable price, but loads of servos+reservoirs were available.
They are common to early E46's as well, but the design was slightly different - the extra blanked off bit on the bottom of mine wasn't present. I didn't want to risk it so ended up finding a Z4 one.
I left the servo in place and just swapped over the reservoirs which was quite simple once I'd sucked all the brake fluid out.
The reservoirs are available separately but I couldn't find one at a reasonable price, but loads of servos+reservoirs were available.
They are common to early E46's as well, but the design was slightly different - the extra blanked off bit on the bottom of mine wasn't present. I didn't want to risk it so ended up finding a Z4 one.
I left the servo in place and just swapped over the reservoirs which was quite simple once I'd sucked all the brake fluid out.
Edited by Jakg on Wednesday 22 March 11:44
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