2004 BMW Z4 3.0
Discussion
The car has always used oil, which seemed to be a characteristic of the engine.
Since replacing the rocker gasket and swapping to 5w40 oil, it's been much reduced, but is still there.
The next thing on my list was to swap the CVV - crankcase ventilation valve, PCV, oil separator, breather - whatever you want to to call it.
There are two kits - the "regular" valve and a "cold climate" one that has extra insulation to reduce condensation at low temperatures.
The "cold climate" kit wasn't much more and I bought all the new hoses to go with it, too.
Even from the right angle with the engine at rest you can't see it at all.
After removing the inlet pipework, dipstick, airbox, throttle body & lots of wiring, I removed the old unit using brute force.
Sludging wasn't too bad I don't think, but I'd already destroyed the old one getting it out so onwards
Unfortunately, getting the new unit in was much, much harder.
Not only was it more difficult to delicately install the new part, but the insulation jacket around the CVV makes it much larger.
The guides all said it was do-able with the inlet manifold in situ, you just had to angle it right, so after a couple of hours I tried to be a little more forceful and then, ooops....
Broke the new one!
The guides specifically say if a garage is saying the inlet manifold needs to come off, they are scamming you etc, but I just couldn't do it. So off with the inlet manifold.
Then it was much easier (but still not really "easy) to get the new unit (arrowed) installed. Even if I'd of got it installed in situ, I dread to think how I would've connected the hoses up.
With the inlet manifold off, I needed to think about the inlet manifold gaskets
Not really that bad, although there's some small split on one edge, so they got replaced.
I also cleaned the throttle body and replaced the dipstick o-ring at the same time.
Put it all back together, started it up and after a little hesitation was back to normal. Feeling triumphant, reverse off the drive and the check engine light comes on...
Drove ok but when scanned with INPA had a fault for the tank vent valve and the oil pressure sensor.
When looking online I could see something looked a little different - I'd plugged them in the wrong way round!
Every connector on the wiring I'd removed was keyed differently - except for two sensors right next to each other, with identical connectors.
Swapped it over, cleared the errors and it looks ok so far.
Since replacing the rocker gasket and swapping to 5w40 oil, it's been much reduced, but is still there.
The next thing on my list was to swap the CVV - crankcase ventilation valve, PCV, oil separator, breather - whatever you want to to call it.
There are two kits - the "regular" valve and a "cold climate" one that has extra insulation to reduce condensation at low temperatures.
The "cold climate" kit wasn't much more and I bought all the new hoses to go with it, too.
Even from the right angle with the engine at rest you can't see it at all.
After removing the inlet pipework, dipstick, airbox, throttle body & lots of wiring, I removed the old unit using brute force.
Sludging wasn't too bad I don't think, but I'd already destroyed the old one getting it out so onwards
Unfortunately, getting the new unit in was much, much harder.
Not only was it more difficult to delicately install the new part, but the insulation jacket around the CVV makes it much larger.
The guides all said it was do-able with the inlet manifold in situ, you just had to angle it right, so after a couple of hours I tried to be a little more forceful and then, ooops....
Broke the new one!
The guides specifically say if a garage is saying the inlet manifold needs to come off, they are scamming you etc, but I just couldn't do it. So off with the inlet manifold.
Then it was much easier (but still not really "easy) to get the new unit (arrowed) installed. Even if I'd of got it installed in situ, I dread to think how I would've connected the hoses up.
With the inlet manifold off, I needed to think about the inlet manifold gaskets
Not really that bad, although there's some small split on one edge, so they got replaced.
I also cleaned the throttle body and replaced the dipstick o-ring at the same time.
Put it all back together, started it up and after a little hesitation was back to normal. Feeling triumphant, reverse off the drive and the check engine light comes on...
Drove ok but when scanned with INPA had a fault for the tank vent valve and the oil pressure sensor.
When looking online I could see something looked a little different - I'd plugged them in the wrong way round!
Every connector on the wiring I'd removed was keyed differently - except for two sensors right next to each other, with identical connectors.
Swapped it over, cleared the errors and it looks ok so far.
Edited by Jakg on Sunday 12th January 00:15
Service history said the aux & ac belt were last changed in 2012 and from above they looked a bit cracked.
Initially was struggling to work out how to get them out, but after removing the undertray and working from below it became pretty obvious.
Belts were actually ok after all, but replaced anyway - dated 2011 so time for a replacement.
Initially was struggling to work out how to get them out, but after removing the undertray and working from below it became pretty obvious.
Belts were actually ok after all, but replaced anyway - dated 2011 so time for a replacement.
Really good thread OP 
Great to see you doing most of the work.
On both previous E39 530i cars, I’ve removed the inlet mani to do the CCV kit, just makes life easier and it can all be really well cleaned too with it out of the way. Like you, new Elring gaskets fitted and no more issues
I did the DISA on my current 530i touring and the thing was hard to get apart, I don’t have the luxury of a oiled drill, so used brute force to get it apart to rebuild it. That plastic cog is a bugger to get off in one piece!
Great to see you doing most of the work.On both previous E39 530i cars, I’ve removed the inlet mani to do the CCV kit, just makes life easier and it can all be really well cleaned too with it out of the way. Like you, new Elring gaskets fitted and no more issues
I did the DISA on my current 530i touring and the thing was hard to get apart, I don’t have the luxury of a oiled drill, so used brute force to get it apart to rebuild it. That plastic cog is a bugger to get off in one piece!
rooflesstyrant said:
Are you still on runflats even after the suspension upgrade and the trackday? Probably need a dry track day or two to wear out those tyres.
I was kind of hoping the track day would've killed them, but it was too wet! I have some fronts in the right size in the shed waiting. I'm sure I can find a way to wear them out...shalmaneser said:
Looking at this pic I reckon a strut brace would really help the stiffness of the chassis! The scuttle is a lot further back than in the coupe - I'm sure there's much more flex.
Nice thread. I've always had a soft spot for the Z4 and can relate totally to your initial intention not to modify anything and then end up doing loads. Looks like you've got a decent set of tools which helps.
I really like the brake and suspension upgrades you've done and hope you feel your efforts rewarded with an improved drive. Those Z4 alloys are my favourite wheels fitted to any car and those brakes only help to enhance the looks.
Ben
I really like the brake and suspension upgrades you've done and hope you feel your efforts rewarded with an improved drive. Those Z4 alloys are my favourite wheels fitted to any car and those brakes only help to enhance the looks.
Ben
NorthernSky said:
Oh and as others have said, treat the car to new tyres all round and get them aligned, ditch the runflats. Hopeless on UK potholed roads!
Sticks. said:
I kept my rfts for quite a while. Although getting rid is an improvement, it's nothing like an E46 on mismatched tyres.
Not just tramlining though, the car felt less unsettled my small bumps, more planted, almost lower. In short, like you'd have expected it to.
Not just tramlining though, the car felt less unsettled my small bumps, more planted, almost lower. In short, like you'd have expected it to.
Braintax said:
Like the earlier poster in this thread, my car's steering would tighten up in the summer and it really, really wasn't pleasant. As others have mentioned, the best thing I ever did was to switch to non-runflat tyres, I went through Falken FK452s and Uniroyal Rain Sport 3s, both of which were pretty excellent and really transformed the car.
CousinDupree said:
Great progress. Can't help but think you are still missing a trick though.
Fitting a new set of good tyres is the most cost effective improvement you can make, especially if you are junking runflats.
It's all a bit of a crapshoot until you do that. A new set of F1 Assym 3s transformed my Z4 3.2. Steering, ride, traction, tramlining....
Not expensive either!
Fitting a new set of good tyres is the most cost effective improvement you can make, especially if you are junking runflats.
It's all a bit of a crapshoot until you do that. A new set of F1 Assym 3s transformed my Z4 3.2. Steering, ride, traction, tramlining....
Not expensive either!
rooflesstyrant said:
Are you still on runflats even after the suspension upgrade and the trackday? Probably need a dry track day or two to wear out those tyres.
Can you sense a consensus?Runflats have gone, now on a set of Vredestein Ultrac Vorti's. Used Vredesteins for years and really rate them.
Tramlining disappeared, and ride is better.
Getting the tyres fitted was a bit of a disaster, though. I've used the same tyre fitters for years - they used to do decent prices on tyres, but they started quoting silly prices (i.e. £50 a corner more than I could buy online) but were happy to fit ones I supplied. A while ago I went in and the boss served me, who moaned the entire time about how I was supplying tyres and it left a really sour taste. But later they were fine.
Four tyres won't fit in a Z4 (I could get one in the boot, one in the front) so a friend dropped the other two off and I got served by the boss again - as soon as I mentioned I had tyres, he signed and demanded to see the car, see the wheels, see the tyres, moaned about me supplying tyres and was just generally difficult. And then said it'd be £20+VAT a corner - normally it's £10!
If I could've put the tyres back in the car I'd of left then and there but I was stuck so had to put up with it.
2 and a half hours later the cars done, and I immediately notice some damage on the wheel. The boss is a bit evasive about letting me look at the car before paying and when I mention what I've seen, out comes the sighs again
By fluke I had a picture of the wheel from the other day
And now
At the top there's clearly a fresh bit of impact damage that's gone through the lacquer, and then the rest of the lacquer has started to peel.
They couldn't claim they hadn't done it, so then the paint finish on the wheels was blamed. Couldn't really argue the point so now I'm stuck.
Overall, left a sour taste and definitely won't be going back.
Moving on...
MOT failed on a drop link split boot so that got changed
Old one
Probably could just've reseated the boot but I've got this far
Always annoying that aftermarket parts use different sized bolts to standard ones - half way through an 18mm spanner had to be slimmed down to counter hold.
Shiny new one fitted
Got a chip in the windscreen and it turns out I don't have windscreen cover - ooops.
AutoGlass wanted £70 to fix a chip (?!?!) so I'd planned on leaving it but I saw someone mention the cheap repair kits and thought I'd try it.
Difficult to photo the before / after but it's done a fantastic job - the piston pushes the resin into the spider cracks so they disappear and there's only a faint mark visible of the centre of the chip. Not bad for a fiver and 20 minutes.
Scanning with INPA showed a fault code for one of the cylinder so after swapping coilpacks around to diagnose, two new ones were fitted.
Finally, it's got another driveway friend
I now have two very different 6 cylinder BMWs - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Also, you can tell I really need to wash cars more often.
Edited by Jakg on Wednesday 24th August 10:10
I've been doing that for just over 5 years now and there isn't anything I would rather have. Big fan of the car, and your willingness to get grubby. I've come close to picking one of these up a few times, but ended up plumping for a Mini instead.
Can you share a link for the windscreen chip kit you used? I have a very annoying one that isn't quite an MOT failure, and I quite like the idea of spending a couple of quid on an 'ok' fix.
Can you share a link for the windscreen chip kit you used? I have a very annoying one that isn't quite an MOT failure, and I quite like the idea of spending a couple of quid on an 'ok' fix.
C70R said:
Can you share a link for the windscreen chip kit you used? I have a very annoying one that isn't quite an MOT failure, and I quite like the idea of spending a couple of quid on an 'ok' fix.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Premium-Car-Windscreen-Repair-Kit-Crack-Chip-Windshield-Glass-Window-Screen/153688776924The recommendation I saw on Facebook was from someone who bought the same kit in Asda for about a fiver if you prefer to shop local.
Could you shine some light on the cable you use to connect the car to INPA?
I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
Sycamore said:
Could you shine some light on the cable you use to connect the car to INPA?
I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312801859524I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
The switch swaps two pins and that is the key I think - I had a similar unit before where I added the switch myself and after that it worked on my MG ZT & the Z4. This is probably why yours isn't working?
Plus you need the right version of the software (I think the version included is ok), and to ensure that the COM ports are configured correctly (i.e. that the interface software is pointing at the COM port associated with the cable).
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