Saab 9-5 2.0t auto saloon 2001
Discussion
Yours sits well on those wheels - looks to be in very good condition.
I think you'll be OK with removing the ECU if you follow the guides UKSaabs.co.uk and various others have posted. Tricky part apparently is removing the 2 nuts that hold the ECU in place as if they fall they can end up behind the dash on the glovebox. That was the only stage I didn't have to do to get the immobiliser code from the ECU.
I've heard the 5 speed auto fitted to these can be a be a bit prone to some issued with the solenoids but mine is all good at the moment so will keep an eye out for any symptoms in the future.
I think you'll be OK with removing the ECU if you follow the guides UKSaabs.co.uk and various others have posted. Tricky part apparently is removing the 2 nuts that hold the ECU in place as if they fall they can end up behind the dash on the glovebox. That was the only stage I didn't have to do to get the immobiliser code from the ECU.
I've heard the 5 speed auto fitted to these can be a be a bit prone to some issued with the solenoids but mine is all good at the moment so will keep an eye out for any symptoms in the future.
£2,500 running costs including depreciation is pretty good over 3 years. Even a basic new car would cost £200-£300 per month so more than £2,500 in one year.
Regarding the codes you need to send Karl for an ECU - you need to remove the wiring plug that attached to the top of the ECU as the immobiliser code that Karl needs to programme the new ECU to your car is under there. it is on a label on the ECU under the connector. If you ask Karl he will send you a link of how to access it. I used the video setting on my camera phone to see the code rather than remove the ECU as I only want to remove it when I am fitting the new ECU.
I found that the postman had delivered the new wheel bolts yesterday and left them in a safe place so fitted them today.
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New:
Regarding the codes you need to send Karl for an ECU - you need to remove the wiring plug that attached to the top of the ECU as the immobiliser code that Karl needs to programme the new ECU to your car is under there. it is on a label on the ECU under the connector. If you ask Karl he will send you a link of how to access it. I used the video setting on my camera phone to see the code rather than remove the ECU as I only want to remove it when I am fitting the new ECU.
I found that the postman had delivered the new wheel bolts yesterday and left them in a safe place so fitted them today.
Old:
New:
The Saab has gone to Abbot Racing this evening ready for the sump drop, clean and oil service tomorrow. Once again there were a nice selection of Saabs there being worked on.
They kindly lent me a car while mine is with them - a 2008 9-5 Aero 2.3T auto. It's nice to compare another 9-5 to mine as I haven't driven many. It feels a lot more urgent than mine and the torque pulls the car along very well! Being an auto like mine, there is a slight delay between pressing the accelerator and the gearbox kicking down and power being delivered, but once it does it really takes off. The torque band feels broad and it accelerates very strongly from 30 right up to the speed limits.(and beyond I imagine...).
The seats are more supportive than mine but mine are more comfortable overall but I can see why they have the extra support as the suspension is firmer and lets you corner with more G-force. It still has great refinement and when cruising at 50-60 on A and B roads it feels very composed and the power is there waiting when you want it.
Interesting to see they ditched the fuel flap button on the drivers door on the later models and just have a manual opening flap that I guess locks with the central locking.
Overall it is a superior car to my 9-5 and is very much what the M-Sport (rather than full on "M" cars) and "S" cars are to BMW and Audi and a very capable sports saloon.
They kindly lent me a car while mine is with them - a 2008 9-5 Aero 2.3T auto. It's nice to compare another 9-5 to mine as I haven't driven many. It feels a lot more urgent than mine and the torque pulls the car along very well! Being an auto like mine, there is a slight delay between pressing the accelerator and the gearbox kicking down and power being delivered, but once it does it really takes off. The torque band feels broad and it accelerates very strongly from 30 right up to the speed limits.(and beyond I imagine...).
The seats are more supportive than mine but mine are more comfortable overall but I can see why they have the extra support as the suspension is firmer and lets you corner with more G-force. It still has great refinement and when cruising at 50-60 on A and B roads it feels very composed and the power is there waiting when you want it.
Interesting to see they ditched the fuel flap button on the drivers door on the later models and just have a manual opening flap that I guess locks with the central locking.
Overall it is a superior car to my 9-5 and is very much what the M-Sport (rather than full on "M" cars) and "S" cars are to BMW and Audi and a very capable sports saloon.
The wheel bolts are from ebay (Tech World Direct) - £23.79 a set including the 4 locking bolts. You can buy cheaper ones but these are made in the EU and are TUV approved.
Nice drive to work this morning in the Aero - the heated seats are properly toasty and it happily wafts along B-roads at 50-60 in almost silence. One overtake was required and the torque pulled me past easily without feeling like I had to thrash it. Very nice. The seats are definitely a little too firm/snug for me (I am 6ft2 and 16 stone!) and the suspension firmer than mine so for a daily commute I prefer my set up, but no doubt this would be quicker through the twisties.
I hope when I fit the Noobtune ECU it will give me similar overtaking ability - the Aero is stated as 258lb/ft of torque and the Noobtune is quoted as 265lb/ft. The Aero has 256bhp against 220ish BHP in the Noob.
Nice drive to work this morning in the Aero - the heated seats are properly toasty and it happily wafts along B-roads at 50-60 in almost silence. One overtake was required and the torque pulled me past easily without feeling like I had to thrash it. Very nice. The seats are definitely a little too firm/snug for me (I am 6ft2 and 16 stone!) and the suspension firmer than mine so for a daily commute I prefer my set up, but no doubt this would be quicker through the twisties.
I hope when I fit the Noobtune ECU it will give me similar overtaking ability - the Aero is stated as 258lb/ft of torque and the Noobtune is quoted as 265lb/ft. The Aero has 256bhp against 220ish BHP in the Noob.
It's a shame the newer Saabs fall into the high tax bands. My car is certainly at its best cruising at 50-60. Would I be right in saying Abbott Racing do exhausts for the 95. That's the only thing my car may need in the future, as at the last MOT there was an advisory re the condition of my current one.
Yes Abbott do exhausts. You sometimes see them for sale second hand as they are good quality systems that last a long time. I would have a good look at your exhaust before replacing it though as the genuine back boxes are double skinned and even if the outer skin deteriorates the box could still have plenty of life left in it.
Just had a call from Abbott to say they have done the sump clean and there was a fair build up of sludge in there so glad I got it done. They also noticed a cracked ABS ring so are changing that while it's with them. I did notice a slight buzz occasionally when braking and suspected it could be an ABS ring issue as I had the same feeling (but much worse) on a 206 GTi I owned a few years back that was also a cracked ABS ring. I would have investigated it and sorted it myself eventually but while it's up on the ramps I'm happy for Abbott to do it.
If mine feels as punchy as the Aero after I change the ECU I'll be very happy. I didn't buy it to be an all out sports saloon, but a comfy Arc spec with the feeling of power not far off the Aero will be great and certainly more than I was expecting. I may well do the ECU change tonight if I get time and will report on the results once done. Very handy having the Aero just before I do the change so I can compare my standard 2.0t, the Aero and then my Stage 1 2.0t on the same day.
Watch this space...
Just had a call from Abbott to say they have done the sump clean and there was a fair build up of sludge in there so glad I got it done. They also noticed a cracked ABS ring so are changing that while it's with them. I did notice a slight buzz occasionally when braking and suspected it could be an ABS ring issue as I had the same feeling (but much worse) on a 206 GTi I owned a few years back that was also a cracked ABS ring. I would have investigated it and sorted it myself eventually but while it's up on the ramps I'm happy for Abbott to do it.
If mine feels as punchy as the Aero after I change the ECU I'll be very happy. I didn't buy it to be an all out sports saloon, but a comfy Arc spec with the feeling of power not far off the Aero will be great and certainly more than I was expecting. I may well do the ECU change tonight if I get time and will report on the results once done. Very handy having the Aero just before I do the change so I can compare my standard 2.0t, the Aero and then my Stage 1 2.0t on the same day.
Watch this space...
Edited by DanG355 on Tuesday 25th September 13:27
I picked the car up from Abbott Racing and was pleased with the work they had carried out, even keeping the old ABS ring for me to look at.
My car parked up with a few other cars they had on site.
I drove the car home and it felt very smooth but a lot less power than the Aero - I had to put it into sport mode to feel like it had a bit more urgency but soon got use to it again.
On returning home I fitted the Noobtune ECU. Pretty straight forward to do and no issued other than a slight crack in the plastic panel than you have to bend to access the ECU. I had to clear some leaf debris from the ECU bay.
Once fitted I set off on a test drive and took it easy. All felt well and I could feel the car had more power even at small to medium throttle openings. Once all warmed up I decided to open it up. I was at about 30MPH and pushed the throttle wide open. The car pulled hard and then at about 40MPH-ish stuttered and cut power. The EML was flashing as well. Not good! I backed off and within a few seconds the light stopped flashing and all felt OK again. I waited about a minute and then accelerated at about half throttle - no problems. I then floored it again but had the same problem with power cutting and the EML flashing.
If felt like engine was boosting strongly then the ECU was cutting the power. I suspect it is over boosting and the ECU senses it and cuts the power but that's only a guess and a forum search has suggested checking the spark plugs, replacing the DI cassette, looking for air leaks and a few other options.
Rather than start blindly looking for the issue I have emailed Karl at Noobtune with the symptoms and will see what he suggests. I don't think it is the ECU as he has years of experience and many happy customers so I reckon the extra boost & fuelling has highlighted a weakness somewhere else.
Hopefully I can get it resolved quickly as the part openings of the throttle revealed the potential for much stronger performance.
My car parked up with a few other cars they had on site.
I drove the car home and it felt very smooth but a lot less power than the Aero - I had to put it into sport mode to feel like it had a bit more urgency but soon got use to it again.
On returning home I fitted the Noobtune ECU. Pretty straight forward to do and no issued other than a slight crack in the plastic panel than you have to bend to access the ECU. I had to clear some leaf debris from the ECU bay.
Once fitted I set off on a test drive and took it easy. All felt well and I could feel the car had more power even at small to medium throttle openings. Once all warmed up I decided to open it up. I was at about 30MPH and pushed the throttle wide open. The car pulled hard and then at about 40MPH-ish stuttered and cut power. The EML was flashing as well. Not good! I backed off and within a few seconds the light stopped flashing and all felt OK again. I waited about a minute and then accelerated at about half throttle - no problems. I then floored it again but had the same problem with power cutting and the EML flashing.
If felt like engine was boosting strongly then the ECU was cutting the power. I suspect it is over boosting and the ECU senses it and cuts the power but that's only a guess and a forum search has suggested checking the spark plugs, replacing the DI cassette, looking for air leaks and a few other options.
Rather than start blindly looking for the issue I have emailed Karl at Noobtune with the symptoms and will see what he suggests. I don't think it is the ECU as he has years of experience and many happy customers so I reckon the extra boost & fuelling has highlighted a weakness somewhere else.
Hopefully I can get it resolved quickly as the part openings of the throttle revealed the potential for much stronger performance.
Karl has replied to my email already (within a few minutes of me sending it) - great service!
He has suggested I look for air leaks due to vac pipes being blown off from being old or perished and then see if the intercooler hoses are split or loose.
Next would be to check the spark plugs to ensure they are not old or incorrect (NGK BCPR7ES are recommended) and are correctly gapped.
If it is not these then I am to check the DI for cracks between the turrets.
Good advice from Karl starting with things that won't cost anything to check and then the cheaper parts before the DI cassette. I may get time to start looking tomorrow evening but if not it will be the weekend.
Although the car is not working 100% I am pleased Karl has pointed me in the right direction and is just something that can happen when you put more boost through the components - some of which are probably the originals from 17 years ago!
He has suggested I look for air leaks due to vac pipes being blown off from being old or perished and then see if the intercooler hoses are split or loose.
Next would be to check the spark plugs to ensure they are not old or incorrect (NGK BCPR7ES are recommended) and are correctly gapped.
If it is not these then I am to check the DI for cracks between the turrets.
Good advice from Karl starting with things that won't cost anything to check and then the cheaper parts before the DI cassette. I may get time to start looking tomorrow evening but if not it will be the weekend.
Although the car is not working 100% I am pleased Karl has pointed me in the right direction and is just something that can happen when you put more boost through the components - some of which are probably the originals from 17 years ago!
I'll be very surprised if it's more than the plugs, my 9-5 Did exactly the same when it was 1st mapped, if you check on the display in the mode you can access now it will show you a misfire count, it's normal to get a few but if the number is massively high it will very probably be plugs or coil pack.
That's a shame it as nt gone as smooth as hoped. As you say it won't be the ECU at fault. But I also fear my car may have similar issues if I go down the remap route. And the Saab is my only car, missus wouldn't be happy if I blew it up. Let's hope you get the issue resolved quickly and cheaply. I will mention all the things you have suggested to my garage tomorrow.
My bet would be an air leak or boost control valve. After that, try a new set of plugs. Less likely to be the DI cassette as the spark is no different after the remap.
I’ve just has all the vacuum pipes replaced on mine because it wasn’t boosting properly and throwing an eml.
I’ve just has all the vacuum pipes replaced on mine because it wasn’t boosting properly and throwing an eml.
Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 25th September 21:14
I've ordered some vacuum hose and a new set of NGK BCPR7ES plugs as the combined price for these is £20 and gives me some parts to try when I look at it.
Just took it for another quick run and the problem is still there but it feels very strong until it hits the problem. I won't drive it again until I've looked into the issue in case it causes another issue or damages something. I'm confident it will all soon be well...
Just took it for another quick run and the problem is still there but it feels very strong until it hits the problem. I won't drive it again until I've looked into the issue in case it causes another issue or damages something. I'm confident it will all soon be well...
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