A Slightly Fettled BMW Z4 35i
Discussion
It might actually be a little more than 360, the dyno run was done straight after remapping and warming the engine up. They said it'd feel stronger still as the car adapted to it and on the drive back that was definitely noticeable.
The torque really gets bumped up though, that went from roughly 330lbft at 2400prm to holding 400lbft in almost a perfect flat line from 3000 to 4250rpm, if you're within that range in any gear it'll get a move on pretty well.
I think I'll have to take some more interior photos too!
The torque really gets bumped up though, that went from roughly 330lbft at 2400prm to holding 400lbft in almost a perfect flat line from 3000 to 4250rpm, if you're within that range in any gear it'll get a move on pretty well.
I think I'll have to take some more interior photos too!
Looks like you've got 18's on yours, have you tried switching from the run flats to a regular tyre?
Having just fitted the 19 inch wheels tonight I'm pleased and slightly relieved to report that so far there's no discernable difference between the 18's and 19's!
I suspect this is largely down to the tyres as they are now 235/35 R19 on the front and 275/30 R19 on the rear, up from 225/40 R18 and 255/35 R18. The extra width means I've only lost roughly 6mm out of the side wall so the ride is pretty much the same.
I'm also a big fan of Goodyear's Eagle F1 tyres, I find they've got 99% of the grip of Michelin tyres but are much quieter and have noticeably more give over bumps, well worth a go unless you really want the grippiest thing out there in which case Michelin all the way.
Having just fitted the 19 inch wheels tonight I'm pleased and slightly relieved to report that so far there's no discernable difference between the 18's and 19's!
I suspect this is largely down to the tyres as they are now 235/35 R19 on the front and 275/30 R19 on the rear, up from 225/40 R18 and 255/35 R18. The extra width means I've only lost roughly 6mm out of the side wall so the ride is pretty much the same.
I'm also a big fan of Goodyear's Eagle F1 tyres, I find they've got 99% of the grip of Michelin tyres but are much quieter and have noticeably more give over bumps, well worth a go unless you really want the grippiest thing out there in which case Michelin all the way.
Can I ask why you went with H&R anti roll bars rather than Eibach? Price?
I've read there is an issue getting the H&R ARB into the stiffest setting. Did you experience this?
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1292...
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1353...
I've read there is an issue getting the H&R ARB into the stiffest setting. Did you experience this?
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1292...
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1353...
Edited by scz4 on Saturday 3rd November 12:03
I made up some droplinks very similar to those in your second link. Though the primary reason for doing so was because the standard item doesn't have any metal bushing for a bolt to go through on the lower part of the link.
This means that if you push a bolt through the rubber and put a nut on the roll bar side, there's nothing solid for it all to tighten up against so it all pushes around within the drop link bushing when the car leans.
Without solidifying it somewhere, there's absolutely no point in an aftermarket rear bar because your mountings aren't fixed!
Availability was the main reason at the time. I don't know what it's like now but when I was doing this, there weren't any Eibach rear bars I could find within a reasonable lead time.
As previously mentioned, I'd rather have used bmw bits but they certainly do a good job and at the front at least there was no discernable difference between the M3 roll bar and H&R's one (apart from weight).
This means that if you push a bolt through the rubber and put a nut on the roll bar side, there's nothing solid for it all to tighten up against so it all pushes around within the drop link bushing when the car leans.
Without solidifying it somewhere, there's absolutely no point in an aftermarket rear bar because your mountings aren't fixed!
Availability was the main reason at the time. I don't know what it's like now but when I was doing this, there weren't any Eibach rear bars I could find within a reasonable lead time.
As previously mentioned, I'd rather have used bmw bits but they certainly do a good job and at the front at least there was no discernable difference between the M3 roll bar and H&R's one (apart from weight).
SamJB said:
I made up some droplinks very similar to those in your second link. Though the primary reason for doing so was because the standard item doesn't have any metal bushing for a bolt to go through on the lower part of the link.
This means that if you push a bolt through the rubber and put a nut on the roll bar side, there's nothing solid for it all to tighten up against so it all pushes around within the drop link bushing when the car leans.
Without solidifying it somewhere, there's absolutely no point in an aftermarket rear bar because your mountings aren't fixed!
Availability was the main reason at the time. I don't know what it's like now but when I was doing this, there weren't any Eibach rear bars I could find within a reasonable lead time.
As previously mentioned, I'd rather have used bmw bits but they certainly do a good job and at the front at least there was no discernable difference between the M3 roll bar and H&R's one (apart from weight).
Thanks again for that. Do you know if you can buy "customised\up-rated" drop links? I'm sure I saw a link to ones on Turner Motorsport site, but can't find that reference now. This means that if you push a bolt through the rubber and put a nut on the roll bar side, there's nothing solid for it all to tighten up against so it all pushes around within the drop link bushing when the car leans.
Without solidifying it somewhere, there's absolutely no point in an aftermarket rear bar because your mountings aren't fixed!
Availability was the main reason at the time. I don't know what it's like now but when I was doing this, there weren't any Eibach rear bars I could find within a reasonable lead time.
As previously mentioned, I'd rather have used bmw bits but they certainly do a good job and at the front at least there was no discernable difference between the M3 roll bar and H&R's one (apart from weight).
Any motorsport parts place will sell bits for making up droplinks, I took some adjustable Porsche ones apart and used some rod ends just because that's what I had available. I plan to replace them every two years going forward.
If you make them the same length as the existing ones with adjustment for +/- 25mm in the same style as that second thread linked then you can't go far wrong.
If you make them the same length as the existing ones with adjustment for +/- 25mm in the same style as that second thread linked then you can't go far wrong.
SamJB said:
Any motorsport parts place will sell bits for making up droplinks, I took some adjustable Porsche ones apart and used some rod ends just because that's what I had available. I plan to replace them every two years going forward.
If you make them the same length as the existing ones with adjustment for +/- 25mm in the same style as that second thread linked then you can't go far wrong.
That's way beyond my engineering skills If you make them the same length as the existing ones with adjustment for +/- 25mm in the same style as that second thread linked then you can't go far wrong.
But as you say, even if running on soft or medium to avoid the rubbing issue, they will be of limited benefit without this modification, so I'll contact Turner.... If they don't have anything then i'd probably just go Eibach springs and M3 parts... or just coilovers on their own, KW V1...
What's next then?
Edited by scz4 on Saturday 3rd November 23:14
It's not too tricky, just need to be careful of getting the lengths right.
Overall though the rear bar is a bit of a pain to get working!
You'd absolutely get a good result just by doing the front end, I'd suggest doing the front M3 bits and front roll bar first. Then decide if springs or coilovers are needed.
Just waiting on the M4 brake calipers to get here then I'll be repainting them and changing discs/pads all round as they're due.
It does look like I've gotten hold of a reasonably priced supply of bmw's 370/380 four piston calipers so could put kits together to bolt onto Z4's and presumably E9x's too if there's interest?
As far as discs/pads go, at the moment I'm assuming I can't go too far wrong with TRW or Brembo?
Overall though the rear bar is a bit of a pain to get working!
You'd absolutely get a good result just by doing the front end, I'd suggest doing the front M3 bits and front roll bar first. Then decide if springs or coilovers are needed.
Just waiting on the M4 brake calipers to get here then I'll be repainting them and changing discs/pads all round as they're due.
It does look like I've gotten hold of a reasonably priced supply of bmw's 370/380 four piston calipers so could put kits together to bolt onto Z4's and presumably E9x's too if there's interest?
As far as discs/pads go, at the moment I'm assuming I can't go too far wrong with TRW or Brembo?
Morning,
Found the reference, do you think that would solve both issues?
"Don't use OEM end links. Order the E46 adjustable rear links from Turner Motorsport. OEM are bad news. I had binding issues and my rear end was twitchy. I run the loosest setting (end of the bar, last hole). Also when fully unsprung, the sway bar can make contact points with suspension components. The rod end send up can be set up to solve all of that."
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096...
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-53-e36e46-rear-...
Found the reference, do you think that would solve both issues?
"Don't use OEM end links. Order the E46 adjustable rear links from Turner Motorsport. OEM are bad news. I had binding issues and my rear end was twitchy. I run the loosest setting (end of the bar, last hole). Also when fully unsprung, the sway bar can make contact points with suspension components. The rod end send up can be set up to solve all of that."
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096...
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-53-e36e46-rear-...
Edited by scz4 on Sunday 4th November 08:55
Julian Thompson said:
Yes thanks I checked it today and they are 18. Not tried anything yet so that sounds like a good plan. Do you have pics of it now on the 19s?
I didn't give it a clean because the weather's been rubbish all weekend but did grab a picture or two, nothing too pretty I'm afraid but the last one gives a good show of where they sit in the wheelarch. 
They're actually replica's, the genuine ones are wider again so don't quite fit as well.
You can find out more about them here; https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?p...
I was a little sceptical of replica's however these have loads of people running around on them without issue and since there isn't a set of original 19'' Z4 wheels for sale that aren't either cracked or been repaired, they can't be much worse surely?
You can find out more about them here; https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?p...
I was a little sceptical of replica's however these have loads of people running around on them without issue and since there isn't a set of original 19'' Z4 wheels for sale that aren't either cracked or been repaired, they can't be much worse surely?
Time for an update and the brakes are on!
As I think has been previously mentioned, the calipers are off of an M4 and discs are the 370mm performance discs from a 340i/440i etc.
It's still in the process of bedding in somewhat but the pedal does feel a little more solid, certainly feels as though there's a lot of potential there as they bed in properly.
The calipers themselves aren't that much larger then the old ones and so don't feel any different in terms of weight, if anything they are a bit lighter perhaps? Anything gained there is likely offset by the larger discs however picking them up side by side, I'd say there isn't that much between them.
The biggest difference is in the pads themselves as the contact patch on the M4 calipers is a lot larger than the original pads.
Very pleased with them so far, shall update when they're properly bedded in.
As I think has been previously mentioned, the calipers are off of an M4 and discs are the 370mm performance discs from a 340i/440i etc.
It's still in the process of bedding in somewhat but the pedal does feel a little more solid, certainly feels as though there's a lot of potential there as they bed in properly.
The calipers themselves aren't that much larger then the old ones and so don't feel any different in terms of weight, if anything they are a bit lighter perhaps? Anything gained there is likely offset by the larger discs however picking them up side by side, I'd say there isn't that much between them.
The biggest difference is in the pads themselves as the contact patch on the M4 calipers is a lot larger than the original pads.
Very pleased with them so far, shall update when they're properly bedded in.
Not too much to report on as spare time has been going to the VX220 in this thread:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Over New Year it did hit the 100K mark however! I have to say BMW put together a really solid car with this one, not looking too shabby for just over four laps of the planet XD
A quick oil and filter service will be coming up, otherwise business as usual.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Over New Year it did hit the 100K mark however! I have to say BMW put together a really solid car with this one, not looking too shabby for just over four laps of the planet XD
A quick oil and filter service will be coming up, otherwise business as usual.
Simon182 said:
Were those brakes ever available as an option on the Z4?
On the F30 there are a number of coding options available for the brakes, particularly if the car has the optional m-sport brakes fitted. I'm not sure what the coding does in regards to pedal feel etc.
Nope, never an option. They were robbed off of an M4 and are the same caliper fitted to 440i, 340i, M3's etc. I'm not too sure about the coding either, bias isn't electrically controlled surely? Pedal feel is excellent (in my opinion) regardless, very similar to Boxster/Cayman/911's.On the F30 there are a number of coding options available for the brakes, particularly if the car has the optional m-sport brakes fitted. I'm not sure what the coding does in regards to pedal feel etc.
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