My 1999 Honda s2000 - My Journey, Beware it's a Long Read.
Discussion
chrismc1977 said:
Won’t go far wrong with PAW tending to the mechanical bits.
I’m very fortunate that they are only 15mins from me so my DC2 wants for nothing
You are very lucky. He is just over 2.5 hours away from me, but always worth it for anything major that requires doing.I’m very fortunate that they are only 15mins from me so my DC2 wants for nothing
Rich at PAW is very good indeed, took my 99 Prelude H22a8 2.2vti to him for the first time way back in 2010 after it needed an auto to manual H23 tensioner conversion. The auto tensioner collapsed.
s2000_f20 said:
You are very lucky. He is just over 2.5 hours away from me, but always worth it for anything major that requires doing.
Rich at PAW is very good indeed, took my 99 Prelude H22a8 2.2vti to him for the first time way back in 2010 after it needed an auto to manual H23 tensioner conversion. The auto tensioner collapsed.
Agreed. I’ve been going to Rich for long enough to class him as a mate now.Rich at PAW is very good indeed, took my 99 Prelude H22a8 2.2vti to him for the first time way back in 2010 after it needed an auto to manual H23 tensioner conversion. The auto tensioner collapsed.
Absolute expert in all things VTEC
Court_S said:
Great attention to detail.
I think these have aged really well. I don’t see many about these days though, there was a lad just up the road from me who had a yellow one that always looked nice despite the questionable exhaust it was fitted with.
Thanks Court_SI think these have aged really well. I don’t see many about these days though, there was a lad just up the road from me who had a yellow one that always looked nice despite the questionable exhaust it was fitted with.
I agree too, they have aged very well indeed and despite Honda selling around 8000 units in the UK from 1999 until production end 2009 you hardly see them on the road.
Hi Guys,
Here’s another update on the s2000.
Enjoy
Task 50 - Engine & Gearbox Mount Replacement
29-04-2019
For quite a while it has been noticed that there is always a slight vibration upon low rev heavy load acceleration.
The vibration symptom often occurs under load, i.e when engine is on idle and the clutch is lifted to provide load.
A rattle type vibration is heard, of course most car engine's vibrate when the engine is loaded like this, but it definitely was not a normal sound and vibrations seemed to be felt quite perceptible in the cabin.
This did not affect the way the car drove so it was not really a priority to rectify. Some basic checks were performed to see if the mounts were confirmed bad.
These checks are:
-Inspect both front engine mounts.
These mounts are fluid filled, they can rip or tear causing an orange type fluid to leak out of them.
Once the mounts are in this state, vibration can occur.
-Use a crow bar and balance it on the top suspension turret mount and lower engine mount
This can check for any excess engine movement indicating a worn or damage mount
-Exhaust assembly checked for any loose components or hangers.
The vibration can also point towards worn rear drive axles. However this particular symptom only occurs at higher acceleration speeds. Therefore this can be ruled out.
If you are experiencing a symptom like this, the solution is to swap over the drive axles.
Link in the "resources used section" below for more info.
The engine mounts on an s2000 are notoriously quite week, and even after performing all the checks above proving that the mounts are fine I was convinced they were not. The car is now 20 years old so it would benefit from having new mounts.
Once black Friday approached (Nov 2018), it was my opportunity to purchase a set of OEM Honda mounts at a discounted price. An order was placed for a set of x2 front engine mounts and x2 rear gearbox mounts.
The existing rear gearbox mounts looked fine but it made sense to replace them all.
The supplier took an age to deliver them, almost 4 months.
However, once they arrived they looked the part.
After viewing several DIY videos on the installation, the procedure looked pretty straight forward.
The only thing is that my trolley jack just doesn't go high enough, living in a flat my choice of tools are quite limited.
The trolley jack I have is the low type Clarke 1.25 ton jack which is the light weight version. Purely so I can carry it back upstairs.
So with this dilemma, I had to call my mechanic friend to help out. The same guy who helped install the facelift s2000 suspension set.
A lovely warm spring day arrived, I took the day off and grabbed the opportunity to get them installed.
I booked him in and we both got to work. He has a nice heavy duty trolley jack which lifted the s2000 pretty high up.
The process was pretty straight forward with no issues or seized bolts.
The replacement OEM mounts fitted perfectly.
Once the installation was complete the vibration was eliminated, and made the car much more pleasurable to drive at low speeds under load.
It was also noticed that the gearshift did not vibrate as much, so replacing the gearbox mounts was also a great benefit too.
A fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Front Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50810-S2A-003
Supplier: Htune
Part: Gearbox Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50806-S2A-000
Supplier: Htune
Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)
Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replace engine mounts on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75J4gXCpirc
Youtube Video
"Testing s2000 Engine Mounts"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6w4m6y3288
For info
s2ki Thread - "Vibration Upon Acceleration" (Swapping Drive Axles)
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 51 - Oil Service 2019
30-03-2019
It has almost been one year since the last oil service, so the second service was now due.
With only having driven approximately 3000 miles within this time, a basic oil and oil filter service was all that was needed.
The oil used this time round was Shell's Helix Ultra fully synthetic 5w40, and a genuine Honda s2000 filter was purchased.
Grabbed a bottle at a great price so I couldn't complain.
The previous oil used was "motul x-cess 5w40" which was also a great oil.
The next time I will try out Castrol's Edge 5w40 FST type oil.
There is alot of debate on what oil to use, check the s2ki FAQ threads.
For the oil grade, stick to Honda's recommendation or S2ki FAQ thread, or the oil grade that the car has been running on previously from its service history if it states it.
There is generally no bad or good brand of oil. The best advice is to change it regularly.
The oil change was straight forward, when finalizing and torqing up the new oil filter, a witness mark was placed on the oil filter and oil filter engine block plate. This is a clear easy indication to tell me if the oil filter starts loosening.
There have been reports of oil filters coming loose due to the high revving nature of the f20 engine.
This witness marking is a simple easy way to tell if the oil filter moves at all.
There are special clamps which can be purchased to lock the filters in place (pretty expensive for what it is), however after removing the old oil filter and with that being pretty secured, I felt that the clamp was not required. If a clamp is seen 2nd hand at a good price it will be purchased.
Whilst the service was underway, I also decided to remove and check all spark plugs.
Being the iridium type and only replaced last year, they had a mountain of life ahead of them.
All spark plugs were checked and none of them were loose prior to removal.
(There also had been reports of spark plugs coming loose, Honda has since revised the torque specs of the spark plug to combat this)
A quick wire brush showed that all spark plugs were in good condition and sparking well.
The PCV valve was also removed , checked and cleaned.
If shaken, you should be able to hear a rattle which confirms that the PCV valve is in good working order.
The rattle was present, a quick spray of brake cleaner and it was re-installed.
The map sensor was also removed, checked and clean.
Special CRC cleaning spray was used for this component. Brake cleaner will be too harsh and can possibly damage this device.
Everything looked good, with only 3000 miles it was hardly surprising but it was good to see everything in good functional order.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Shell Helix 5w40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Helix Ultra 5w40
Supplier: Opie OIls
Part: Genuine s2000 Honda OEM Oil Filter
Honda Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune
Part: CRC Sensor Spray
Part Number: 30498
Supplier: Ebay
Part: Brake Cleaner (normfest Mc1)
Part Number: NOR2897333500
Supplier: Eurocarparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Potential Oil Filter Clamp (from tegiwa)
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-s2000-oil-fil...
Info on Spark Plugs coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/ev...
TSB from Honda: https://www.s2ki.com/public/library/TSB/A02-042/in...
Info on Oil Filters coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Info on PCV Valve
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/i-...
s2000 Oil/Oil Filter Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/sp...
Correct oil for your s2000
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 52 - Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500
30-03-2019
The brakes on the s2000 are adequate to say the least and could do with some improvements.
At the moment, the brake setup is completely stock, although all brake callipers, brake discs and pads including the fluid were overhauled/replaced last year.
You could spend thousands on brake upgrades but a great upgrade is improving the brake pads.
Wanting abit more bite, I decided to go for a set of upgraded pads.
Having previously used Ferrodo's DS2500 type brake pad on my previously owned 1999 Honda Prelude 2.2 vti, I found them to have excellent bite when working hard and fantastic bite from cold. A great all rounder.
The only downfall was alot more brake dusting compared to OEM pads.
I managed to pick them up at a great price, again on black Friday (Nov 2018), but waited until now to get them fitted once the weather improved.
Brake pad change on the s2000 is super simple, with DIYguys YouTube video reminding me of the procedure.
The calliper and carrier setup is almost identical to my facelift 2006 Honda Accord ictdi.
Sliders were checked, cleaned and re-greased and all pad shims from the OEM brake pad were re-used on the ds2500 version to help stop any squealing.
Silicone grease used for the sliders and copper grease used for the rear of pads and shims.
Original OEM pads removed
DS2500 pads fitted
The results was a vast improvement over the stock OEM pads, and a highly recommended upgrade.
If additional funds allow, the brake lines would benefit from an upgrade to stainless items to further help in improving the brake feel. If even more funds allow, it would be nice to upgrade the brake discs to Stop-Tech grooved type.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pad Set
Part Number: FCP1444H
Supplier: JJC Race and Rally (via ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replacing Front Brake Pads on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHQ9Wy35CWg
Task 53 - Replace Missing Catalytic Heat Shield Bolt
30-03-2019
A metallic high pitched vibration was found during high speed acceleration, and it was confirmed during last month's MOT session.
The cause of the vibration is the catalytic converter heat shield has a missing fastening bolt.
A quick check on s2ki confirmed the hole size and recommended sized bolt to use to re-fasten the heat shield.
Once the size was confirmed, a quick check on for a suitable nut and bolt was sourced.
Parts Purchased:
Part: M6 Nut and Bolt (Stainless)
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283194357921
Part: M6 Shake Proof Washer
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221304059508
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Catalytic Converter Heat Shield Bolt Size"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 54 - Upgrade to AP2 Valve Retainers/Keepers on Intake
Upgrade Oil jet Bolts and Upgrade Brake Line to Stainless Type
04-05-2019
With the s2000 being an early model and one of the first ones manufactured, there were a number of TSB (technical service bulletins). I believe it only affected s2000's manufactured between 1999 and 2000. Later models already had the changes implemented within their build.
These service bulletins flagged a few issues with the s2000 F20 engine.
The bulletins were the rectification of the valve retainers on the intake side of the engine (Upgrade to AP2 type), and the upgrade of the oil jet bolts from twin port to quad port outlet for better cooling.
Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If mechanically over revved, valve retainers can crack.
(Mechanically over rev is where you drop down into the incorrect gear and you over rev) not to be confused by just revving out the engine and letting it bounce on the limiter)
Results: Cracked retainers and fall into the chamber and destroy the engine.
Solution: Install stronger AP2 type retainers/keepers for intake side only.
Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If car is run at high RPM's for long periods of time, overheating of the lower section of the engine can occur.
Results: Severe engine damage to bottom end.
Solution: Install revised 4 port oil jet bolt for better cooling.
Currently the engine runs smoothly with no issues what so ever. However, with the car being 20 years old and having had several previous owners there has always been a possibility that that the car may have been over revved at some point in its life. For peace of mind, it would make sense to get this work done.
Due to how the cracks appear, they tend to occur on the underside of the retainer so generally very difficult to see on a visual inspection when the rocker cover is off.
It is only recommended to upgrade the retainers of the intake side of the engine. Due to the heavier weight of the AP2 if the exhaust side is also upgraded this can cause valve float.
Rich at performance Autoworks explains "Valve Float" below and the issues surrounding the retainers on the early f20c engine.
“Valve Float occurs when the valve spring can no longer control the valve, which means the valve can still be open when it is off the cam lobe.
This can happen for various reasons such as
-On stock valve trains when over revved,
-If replacement heavier valves and retainers are used with stock valve springs (mostly at higher rpms)
-If high lift cams are installed without uprated valve springs.
The AP2 retainers are heavier than the AP1 items but the stock Intake valve springs can cope with this, the exhaust side springs are softer and with high rpms can allow the valve to float (with AP2 retainers).
As the exhaust side isn’t really an issue on the AP1 it makes sense to only do the intake retainer”
In hindsight, this should have been performed at my first visit to Performance Autoworks where they checked and adjusted all the clearances.
With the above in mind, I also decided to get the oil jet bolt upgrade performed too.
Upon reading many threads online, the oil jet bolt upgrade is not generally 100% required.
You would not expose the engine to a prolonged high rpm use on a normal road unless you did it deliberately.
Honda decided to release this TSB most likely to protect themselves, and for different countries as they would have different driving habits.
If you are running a turbo or super charger then it would be 100% required.
I wanted peace of mind, so this would be a great opportunity to get this work done at the same time as the retainer upgrade. It would also be an opportunity to have a peer around the bottom end of the engine for any noticeable issues.
Once these two jobs are complete, the original f20c flaw's should now be covered.
(with the exception of the infamous TCT "timing chain tensioner") It's still holding up pretty well.
From a visual inspection of it, it seems it is the original tensioner unit.
With the oil jet bolt upgrade, the oil sump would have to be removed so fresh oil would be needed.
Again, in hindsight I should have held back on the oil service last month.
Not to worry, I can now try out Castrol Edge FST 5w40 oil.
I decided that the retainer and oil jet bolt upgrade is to be performed by Performance Autoworks.
There would be no chance of me performing this type of work in an open car park.
Whilst the car is in, Performance Autoworks will also upgrade the brake lines. The original rubber brake lines have definitely seen better days so I thought instead of replacing them why not upgrade them to stainless versions. This would also match well with the Ferrodo DS2500 pad setup currently on the car.
The brake lines I have chosen are the Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit.
An order for the genuine Honda retainers and oil jet bolts were placed.
The Goodridge stainless brake lines were also ordered and arrived within a few days.
My brother also needed some maintenance work performing on his 1994 B16 powered Honda Civic coupe.
We dropped that one off first and then mine a week later.
Rich at Performance Autoworks reported no issues, and all jobs went well without a hitch.
He reported that the engine is very healthy, with no debris or any cause for concern after performing a full inspection with the oil sump removed. It was also noticed that the engine runs much more smoother, although it could be due to the Castrol edge oil being used or the fresh valve adjustment that was performed.
The original retainers and oil jet bolts were closely examined after they were removed.
It was confirmed that the oil jet bolts were the original 2 port design.
It was also confirmed that the original retainers had no signs of cracking or defects, and were in overall excellent condition. This was also confirmation that the engine had not had a mechanical over rev within its history.
Stainless Steel Lines
As always, Rich did a fantastic job.
A great result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (1 litre)
Part Number: React Brake Fluid
Supplier: Rich at Performance Autoworks Supplied this for me.
Part: Castrol Edge FST 5w/40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Edge 5w40
Supplier: Opie Oils
Part: Genuine Honda AP2 Retainer (x8) & Keeper Upgrade (x16)
Honda Part Number: 14765-PRB-A01 & 14781-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune
Part: Genuine Honda Oil Jet Bolt Upgrade
Part Number: 15290-PCX-000
Supplier: Htune
Part: Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit (in Black)
Part Number: SHD1010-4P
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Unit 13
Horcott Industrial Estate
Horcott Road
Fairford
Gloucestershire
GL7 4BX
Phone: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
http://www.performance-autoworks.co.uk/contact.php
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "AP2 Retainer Upgrade"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/how-criti...
s2ki Thread - "Oil Jet Bolt Info"
https://h-tune.co.uk/club/threads/oil-jet-bolt-rep...
Task 55 - Upgrade Front Roof Latches to Hardtop Version
12-05-2019
The existing front roof latches are the original for the soft top, and therefore they are pretty worn out.
Since the hardtop roof had been fitted, the roof has a tendency to rattle quite abit whilst driving over rough or bumpy roads. Honda offered the hard top version of the latch which is slightly thicker and provides a more tighter clamp thus eliminating the hardtop rattle.
Here are photos showing soft top latch vs the hard top latch
Many members just perform the washer mod, basically a couple of washers to lift the latch further away from the roof line to provide a tighter clamping force. The issue here is that it can cause some distortion due to the rigidity of the hard top roof. The soft top is quite flexible hence why you can get away with it for soft top use.
I preferred to do it properly as the hardtop roof would be semi permanent for now, or until a suitable storage solution can be found for the hardtop itself in the future.
A pair was ordered and they came within good time.
Installation was super easy. I recently installed the washer mod last year (Task 7) to help eliminate the soft top wind noise. DIY guys provided an excellent easy to follow guide in removing the trim to gain access to these latches.
Installation was a breeze and using the existing screws, reinstallation of all the trim was straight forward with no issues.
New strikers installed
All trim re-installed
Whilst performing this task, the hardtop roof seals were all re-greased using shin enstui silicon rubber grease to help reduce rubbing sounds and also keep all seals supple.
Once the latches were installed, the hardtop was clamped in place. There was a noticeable stiffer feeling in clamping giving that sense of greater strength in pulling down the hardtop roof. This was a positive feeling as it was looking very likely this would resolve my hardtop rattling issues.
Finally, no more rattling. There are some very minor noises, as it is a removable roof you will always get some noises due to the fact the roof is not a part of the car. However it is a night and day difference as the rattling noises were super annoying and would drive you mad on a long drive.
All trims were re-installed.
Very happy with a fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Hard Top Front Roof Latches
Part Number: 86270-S2A-902 (x2 required)
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "s2000 soft top roof washer Mod"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU
Task 56 - Strip Down OEM Head unit and Reflow Connector Terminals
15-05-2019
On a random drive to work, it was noticed that the sound system had a slight issue.
The issue was with the left side speaker, the speaker would slightly crackle with a reduce volume on random occasions. On a previous task, the head unit was just removed and checked. However the issue was not experienced at the time and everything looked in good condition.
This time round, I thought it would be a good time to dive alittle further.
With the head unit so easy to remove, I brought it indoors to have a little diagnosis session.
The head unit came apart nicely, with every part of the assembly well thought out to aid ease of production.
It really was a nice unit to work on.
With the head unit fully stripped down, I could remove the main PCB from the chassis.
A visual inspection of the main input connector and CD changer terminals was performed, along with the terminals of the main power output MOSFET component. The solder fillets looked generally ok, although it would benefit from a reflow on the main connector.
I got out my Weller WSD81 soldering station and some flux, and got to work reflowing these 3 main areas.
After reflowing, all terminals looked good.
Re-assembly was a breeze and the head unit was re-installed back into the car without any issues.
Upon power up, everything worked fine with the issue not being present.
The situation will be monitored to see if it re-occurred but so far so good.
It may be worth checking out the CD changer at a later date to see if any issues are apparent on this assembly.
I know it is probably easier to just buy a modern head unit, but I just love the OEM originality.
With the car not being the daily, a modern head unit is not really required.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 57 - Revert Air Filter from K&N Back to OEM
19-05-2019
After a good amount of time using the K&N drop in filter, my conclusion is that it provides very little benefits.
With the original air box modified slightly in task 52 to provide alittle more sound without compromising on power, there was very little or none at all differences between the two filters.
The K&N filter does increase bhp by 1 or2 horse power, but has to sacrifice some filtration.
To be fair, 1 or 2 horse power would be very hard to feel, especially with there being so many factors and variations in driving conditions, air temperatures and state of the car.
There also has been reports of K&N filters damaging MAP sensors, although I am unable to confirm if this is true.
The only real benefit of having the K&N filter is that it is washable and re-usable. However seeing that the s2000 is not a daily and only used sparingly, the OEM paper filter would not need to be changed as often.
Even if the car was used as a daily, I would be quite concerned about letting in more debris everyday on your commute for the sake of negligible increase in response.
To this degree, I have decided that the original Honda OEM filter will be re-installed.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 58 – Novice Track Day Preparation
01-06-2019
Earlier in the year, me and brother decided that it was time to get the cars out on a track day.
Not wanting the track day to be too aggressive, we both decided to do a novice evening.
The track I have always wanted to do was Brands Hatch, together with the s2000 it would be a personal bucket list moment.
Together with this, my s2000 is 20 years old this year. What an event to celebrate its 20th birthday.
The track day was booked for the 5th June 2019.
All the tasks leading up to the track day help prepare the car, and cover all the basics to ensure the car stayed reliable on the day.
Final checks were done which included
-Torque on all Spark plugs
-All fluid checks
-Brake fluid moisture content check (less than 1%) – Pass
(using a Laser 4875 brake fluid tester)
-Engine visual inspection (no leaks or loose clips or connectors)
-All wheels removed, visual inspection performed
-All body works secured
-Exhaust items secured, no loose bolts
-Wheel bolts torqued up
-Tyre pressures checked
-Front tow hook check and fitted
-All tools/equipment and trolley jack loaded in boot
-Car cleaned
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 59 – Novice Track Day Evening @ Brand Hatch
05-06-2019
The day finally arrived.
With all the works performed on the s2000, it was ready for some fun.
In attendance was:
-Myself in my 1999 Honda s2000
-My brother in his B16a powered 1994 Honda Civic Coupe
-An old friend in his 2013 BMW M135i
-Another old friend tagging along as a passenger in my s2000.
Due to the nature of these events and the value of the s2000, I decided on getting track day insurance.
From sky insurance it was a reasonable £97 cover for the day.
Incidents on track day events are usually quite rare, but it is great peace of mind just in case anything were to happen.
Great website, purchase online and receive your certificate in minutes
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-day-insurance...
Absolutely epic day, fun was had by all and I did not want it to end.
Naturally we all felt slightly nervous at the beginning, but we all gained confidence in our cars as the evening went on.
The Honda s2000 performed flawlessly throughout all 4 sessions.
What a machine the s2000 is, Honda was on top of their game back in 1999 when they designed this car.
The chassis inspired confidence on every turn, coupled with its lovely gearbox, rev match on the down shift was a joy to execute when I could.
That f20 engine never missed a beat and revved flawlessly to 9k rpm every time I asked it too. What an engine, what a machine!
The s2000 stayed flat around the corners and flex of the whole car was barely noticeable. Just goes to show that x-bone frame was a master piece of design and engineering.
I was amazed at the capability of such a standard stock OEM car on road tyres (with the exception of slightly upgraded pads and stainless brake lines)
The brake performance was fantastic, no fade was felt and bite was excellent. It does goes to show all you need is good brake fluid (Castrol React Performance) and better than OEM pads (in this case ds2500 pads).
There were some lovely cars on track, most of which were alot faster than the s2000. Some were also alot slower consisting of a standard mini cooper and even a standard tdci Mondeo.
I think the closest competition I had was with a 2003 Porsche Boxster. His car seemed quite serious as it had a roll cage, but the s2000 kept up with it even around the corners despite the s2000 being stock.
The s2000 just felt at home on circuit, I am really glad I managed to take my s2000 on track as it was intended for.
I know track days aren’t for everyone. The pitfalls and expensive drama’s that can result in such event, but I would highly recommend it to anyone to fully feel the capability of the s2000.
Thanks to Matt Clay for taking the photos on the first session whilst we were queuing in the pit lane and out on track.
What an incredible day.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
MSV Track Days
https://www.msvtrackdays.com/car
Track Day Insurance
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-day-insurance...
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list
To-do List
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)
Long Term To-Do
-Rectify lower arch rust issues
-Respray bonnet and boot lid due to paint surface defects
-Maybe colour code headlight washers and rear bumper lower lip section
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading guys
09-06-19
Here’s another update on the s2000.
Enjoy
Task 50 - Engine & Gearbox Mount Replacement
29-04-2019
For quite a while it has been noticed that there is always a slight vibration upon low rev heavy load acceleration.
The vibration symptom often occurs under load, i.e when engine is on idle and the clutch is lifted to provide load.
A rattle type vibration is heard, of course most car engine's vibrate when the engine is loaded like this, but it definitely was not a normal sound and vibrations seemed to be felt quite perceptible in the cabin.
This did not affect the way the car drove so it was not really a priority to rectify. Some basic checks were performed to see if the mounts were confirmed bad.
These checks are:
-Inspect both front engine mounts.
These mounts are fluid filled, they can rip or tear causing an orange type fluid to leak out of them.
Once the mounts are in this state, vibration can occur.
-Use a crow bar and balance it on the top suspension turret mount and lower engine mount
This can check for any excess engine movement indicating a worn or damage mount
-Exhaust assembly checked for any loose components or hangers.
The vibration can also point towards worn rear drive axles. However this particular symptom only occurs at higher acceleration speeds. Therefore this can be ruled out.
If you are experiencing a symptom like this, the solution is to swap over the drive axles.
Link in the "resources used section" below for more info.
The engine mounts on an s2000 are notoriously quite week, and even after performing all the checks above proving that the mounts are fine I was convinced they were not. The car is now 20 years old so it would benefit from having new mounts.
Once black Friday approached (Nov 2018), it was my opportunity to purchase a set of OEM Honda mounts at a discounted price. An order was placed for a set of x2 front engine mounts and x2 rear gearbox mounts.
The existing rear gearbox mounts looked fine but it made sense to replace them all.
The supplier took an age to deliver them, almost 4 months.
However, once they arrived they looked the part.
After viewing several DIY videos on the installation, the procedure looked pretty straight forward.
The only thing is that my trolley jack just doesn't go high enough, living in a flat my choice of tools are quite limited.
The trolley jack I have is the low type Clarke 1.25 ton jack which is the light weight version. Purely so I can carry it back upstairs.
So with this dilemma, I had to call my mechanic friend to help out. The same guy who helped install the facelift s2000 suspension set.
A lovely warm spring day arrived, I took the day off and grabbed the opportunity to get them installed.
I booked him in and we both got to work. He has a nice heavy duty trolley jack which lifted the s2000 pretty high up.
The process was pretty straight forward with no issues or seized bolts.
The replacement OEM mounts fitted perfectly.
Once the installation was complete the vibration was eliminated, and made the car much more pleasurable to drive at low speeds under load.
It was also noticed that the gearshift did not vibrate as much, so replacing the gearbox mounts was also a great benefit too.
A fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Front Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50810-S2A-003
Supplier: Htune
Part: Gearbox Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50806-S2A-000
Supplier: Htune
Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)
Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replace engine mounts on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75J4gXCpirc
Youtube Video
"Testing s2000 Engine Mounts"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6w4m6y3288
For info
s2ki Thread - "Vibration Upon Acceleration" (Swapping Drive Axles)
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 51 - Oil Service 2019
30-03-2019
It has almost been one year since the last oil service, so the second service was now due.
With only having driven approximately 3000 miles within this time, a basic oil and oil filter service was all that was needed.
The oil used this time round was Shell's Helix Ultra fully synthetic 5w40, and a genuine Honda s2000 filter was purchased.
Grabbed a bottle at a great price so I couldn't complain.
The previous oil used was "motul x-cess 5w40" which was also a great oil.
The next time I will try out Castrol's Edge 5w40 FST type oil.
There is alot of debate on what oil to use, check the s2ki FAQ threads.
For the oil grade, stick to Honda's recommendation or S2ki FAQ thread, or the oil grade that the car has been running on previously from its service history if it states it.
There is generally no bad or good brand of oil. The best advice is to change it regularly.
The oil change was straight forward, when finalizing and torqing up the new oil filter, a witness mark was placed on the oil filter and oil filter engine block plate. This is a clear easy indication to tell me if the oil filter starts loosening.
There have been reports of oil filters coming loose due to the high revving nature of the f20 engine.
This witness marking is a simple easy way to tell if the oil filter moves at all.
There are special clamps which can be purchased to lock the filters in place (pretty expensive for what it is), however after removing the old oil filter and with that being pretty secured, I felt that the clamp was not required. If a clamp is seen 2nd hand at a good price it will be purchased.
Whilst the service was underway, I also decided to remove and check all spark plugs.
Being the iridium type and only replaced last year, they had a mountain of life ahead of them.
All spark plugs were checked and none of them were loose prior to removal.
(There also had been reports of spark plugs coming loose, Honda has since revised the torque specs of the spark plug to combat this)
A quick wire brush showed that all spark plugs were in good condition and sparking well.
The PCV valve was also removed , checked and cleaned.
If shaken, you should be able to hear a rattle which confirms that the PCV valve is in good working order.
The rattle was present, a quick spray of brake cleaner and it was re-installed.
The map sensor was also removed, checked and clean.
Special CRC cleaning spray was used for this component. Brake cleaner will be too harsh and can possibly damage this device.
Everything looked good, with only 3000 miles it was hardly surprising but it was good to see everything in good functional order.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Shell Helix 5w40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Helix Ultra 5w40
Supplier: Opie OIls
Part: Genuine s2000 Honda OEM Oil Filter
Honda Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune
Part: CRC Sensor Spray
Part Number: 30498
Supplier: Ebay
Part: Brake Cleaner (normfest Mc1)
Part Number: NOR2897333500
Supplier: Eurocarparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Potential Oil Filter Clamp (from tegiwa)
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-s2000-oil-fil...
Info on Spark Plugs coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/ev...
TSB from Honda: https://www.s2ki.com/public/library/TSB/A02-042/in...
Info on Oil Filters coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Info on PCV Valve
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/i-...
s2000 Oil/Oil Filter Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/sp...
Correct oil for your s2000
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 52 - Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500
30-03-2019
The brakes on the s2000 are adequate to say the least and could do with some improvements.
At the moment, the brake setup is completely stock, although all brake callipers, brake discs and pads including the fluid were overhauled/replaced last year.
You could spend thousands on brake upgrades but a great upgrade is improving the brake pads.
Wanting abit more bite, I decided to go for a set of upgraded pads.
Having previously used Ferrodo's DS2500 type brake pad on my previously owned 1999 Honda Prelude 2.2 vti, I found them to have excellent bite when working hard and fantastic bite from cold. A great all rounder.
The only downfall was alot more brake dusting compared to OEM pads.
I managed to pick them up at a great price, again on black Friday (Nov 2018), but waited until now to get them fitted once the weather improved.
Brake pad change on the s2000 is super simple, with DIYguys YouTube video reminding me of the procedure.
The calliper and carrier setup is almost identical to my facelift 2006 Honda Accord ictdi.
Sliders were checked, cleaned and re-greased and all pad shims from the OEM brake pad were re-used on the ds2500 version to help stop any squealing.
Silicone grease used for the sliders and copper grease used for the rear of pads and shims.
Original OEM pads removed
DS2500 pads fitted
The results was a vast improvement over the stock OEM pads, and a highly recommended upgrade.
If additional funds allow, the brake lines would benefit from an upgrade to stainless items to further help in improving the brake feel. If even more funds allow, it would be nice to upgrade the brake discs to Stop-Tech grooved type.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pad Set
Part Number: FCP1444H
Supplier: JJC Race and Rally (via ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replacing Front Brake Pads on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHQ9Wy35CWg
Task 53 - Replace Missing Catalytic Heat Shield Bolt
30-03-2019
A metallic high pitched vibration was found during high speed acceleration, and it was confirmed during last month's MOT session.
The cause of the vibration is the catalytic converter heat shield has a missing fastening bolt.
A quick check on s2ki confirmed the hole size and recommended sized bolt to use to re-fasten the heat shield.
Once the size was confirmed, a quick check on for a suitable nut and bolt was sourced.
Parts Purchased:
Part: M6 Nut and Bolt (Stainless)
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283194357921
Part: M6 Shake Proof Washer
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221304059508
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Catalytic Converter Heat Shield Bolt Size"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 54 - Upgrade to AP2 Valve Retainers/Keepers on Intake
Upgrade Oil jet Bolts and Upgrade Brake Line to Stainless Type
04-05-2019
With the s2000 being an early model and one of the first ones manufactured, there were a number of TSB (technical service bulletins). I believe it only affected s2000's manufactured between 1999 and 2000. Later models already had the changes implemented within their build.
These service bulletins flagged a few issues with the s2000 F20 engine.
The bulletins were the rectification of the valve retainers on the intake side of the engine (Upgrade to AP2 type), and the upgrade of the oil jet bolts from twin port to quad port outlet for better cooling.
Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If mechanically over revved, valve retainers can crack.
(Mechanically over rev is where you drop down into the incorrect gear and you over rev) not to be confused by just revving out the engine and letting it bounce on the limiter)
Results: Cracked retainers and fall into the chamber and destroy the engine.
Solution: Install stronger AP2 type retainers/keepers for intake side only.
Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If car is run at high RPM's for long periods of time, overheating of the lower section of the engine can occur.
Results: Severe engine damage to bottom end.
Solution: Install revised 4 port oil jet bolt for better cooling.
Currently the engine runs smoothly with no issues what so ever. However, with the car being 20 years old and having had several previous owners there has always been a possibility that that the car may have been over revved at some point in its life. For peace of mind, it would make sense to get this work done.
Due to how the cracks appear, they tend to occur on the underside of the retainer so generally very difficult to see on a visual inspection when the rocker cover is off.
It is only recommended to upgrade the retainers of the intake side of the engine. Due to the heavier weight of the AP2 if the exhaust side is also upgraded this can cause valve float.
Rich at performance Autoworks explains "Valve Float" below and the issues surrounding the retainers on the early f20c engine.
“Valve Float occurs when the valve spring can no longer control the valve, which means the valve can still be open when it is off the cam lobe.
This can happen for various reasons such as
-On stock valve trains when over revved,
-If replacement heavier valves and retainers are used with stock valve springs (mostly at higher rpms)
-If high lift cams are installed without uprated valve springs.
The AP2 retainers are heavier than the AP1 items but the stock Intake valve springs can cope with this, the exhaust side springs are softer and with high rpms can allow the valve to float (with AP2 retainers).
As the exhaust side isn’t really an issue on the AP1 it makes sense to only do the intake retainer”
In hindsight, this should have been performed at my first visit to Performance Autoworks where they checked and adjusted all the clearances.
With the above in mind, I also decided to get the oil jet bolt upgrade performed too.
Upon reading many threads online, the oil jet bolt upgrade is not generally 100% required.
You would not expose the engine to a prolonged high rpm use on a normal road unless you did it deliberately.
Honda decided to release this TSB most likely to protect themselves, and for different countries as they would have different driving habits.
If you are running a turbo or super charger then it would be 100% required.
I wanted peace of mind, so this would be a great opportunity to get this work done at the same time as the retainer upgrade. It would also be an opportunity to have a peer around the bottom end of the engine for any noticeable issues.
Once these two jobs are complete, the original f20c flaw's should now be covered.
(with the exception of the infamous TCT "timing chain tensioner") It's still holding up pretty well.
From a visual inspection of it, it seems it is the original tensioner unit.
With the oil jet bolt upgrade, the oil sump would have to be removed so fresh oil would be needed.
Again, in hindsight I should have held back on the oil service last month.
Not to worry, I can now try out Castrol Edge FST 5w40 oil.
I decided that the retainer and oil jet bolt upgrade is to be performed by Performance Autoworks.
There would be no chance of me performing this type of work in an open car park.
Whilst the car is in, Performance Autoworks will also upgrade the brake lines. The original rubber brake lines have definitely seen better days so I thought instead of replacing them why not upgrade them to stainless versions. This would also match well with the Ferrodo DS2500 pad setup currently on the car.
The brake lines I have chosen are the Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit.
An order for the genuine Honda retainers and oil jet bolts were placed.
The Goodridge stainless brake lines were also ordered and arrived within a few days.
My brother also needed some maintenance work performing on his 1994 B16 powered Honda Civic coupe.
We dropped that one off first and then mine a week later.
Rich at Performance Autoworks reported no issues, and all jobs went well without a hitch.
He reported that the engine is very healthy, with no debris or any cause for concern after performing a full inspection with the oil sump removed. It was also noticed that the engine runs much more smoother, although it could be due to the Castrol edge oil being used or the fresh valve adjustment that was performed.
The original retainers and oil jet bolts were closely examined after they were removed.
It was confirmed that the oil jet bolts were the original 2 port design.
It was also confirmed that the original retainers had no signs of cracking or defects, and were in overall excellent condition. This was also confirmation that the engine had not had a mechanical over rev within its history.
Stainless Steel Lines
As always, Rich did a fantastic job.
A great result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (1 litre)
Part Number: React Brake Fluid
Supplier: Rich at Performance Autoworks Supplied this for me.
Part: Castrol Edge FST 5w/40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Edge 5w40
Supplier: Opie Oils
Part: Genuine Honda AP2 Retainer (x8) & Keeper Upgrade (x16)
Honda Part Number: 14765-PRB-A01 & 14781-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune
Part: Genuine Honda Oil Jet Bolt Upgrade
Part Number: 15290-PCX-000
Supplier: Htune
Part: Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit (in Black)
Part Number: SHD1010-4P
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Unit 13
Horcott Industrial Estate
Horcott Road
Fairford
Gloucestershire
GL7 4BX
Phone: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
http://www.performance-autoworks.co.uk/contact.php
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "AP2 Retainer Upgrade"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/how-criti...
s2ki Thread - "Oil Jet Bolt Info"
https://h-tune.co.uk/club/threads/oil-jet-bolt-rep...
Task 55 - Upgrade Front Roof Latches to Hardtop Version
12-05-2019
The existing front roof latches are the original for the soft top, and therefore they are pretty worn out.
Since the hardtop roof had been fitted, the roof has a tendency to rattle quite abit whilst driving over rough or bumpy roads. Honda offered the hard top version of the latch which is slightly thicker and provides a more tighter clamp thus eliminating the hardtop rattle.
Here are photos showing soft top latch vs the hard top latch
Many members just perform the washer mod, basically a couple of washers to lift the latch further away from the roof line to provide a tighter clamping force. The issue here is that it can cause some distortion due to the rigidity of the hard top roof. The soft top is quite flexible hence why you can get away with it for soft top use.
I preferred to do it properly as the hardtop roof would be semi permanent for now, or until a suitable storage solution can be found for the hardtop itself in the future.
A pair was ordered and they came within good time.
Installation was super easy. I recently installed the washer mod last year (Task 7) to help eliminate the soft top wind noise. DIY guys provided an excellent easy to follow guide in removing the trim to gain access to these latches.
Installation was a breeze and using the existing screws, reinstallation of all the trim was straight forward with no issues.
New strikers installed
All trim re-installed
Whilst performing this task, the hardtop roof seals were all re-greased using shin enstui silicon rubber grease to help reduce rubbing sounds and also keep all seals supple.
Once the latches were installed, the hardtop was clamped in place. There was a noticeable stiffer feeling in clamping giving that sense of greater strength in pulling down the hardtop roof. This was a positive feeling as it was looking very likely this would resolve my hardtop rattling issues.
Finally, no more rattling. There are some very minor noises, as it is a removable roof you will always get some noises due to the fact the roof is not a part of the car. However it is a night and day difference as the rattling noises were super annoying and would drive you mad on a long drive.
All trims were re-installed.
Very happy with a fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Hard Top Front Roof Latches
Part Number: 86270-S2A-902 (x2 required)
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "s2000 soft top roof washer Mod"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU
Task 56 - Strip Down OEM Head unit and Reflow Connector Terminals
15-05-2019
On a random drive to work, it was noticed that the sound system had a slight issue.
The issue was with the left side speaker, the speaker would slightly crackle with a reduce volume on random occasions. On a previous task, the head unit was just removed and checked. However the issue was not experienced at the time and everything looked in good condition.
This time round, I thought it would be a good time to dive alittle further.
With the head unit so easy to remove, I brought it indoors to have a little diagnosis session.
The head unit came apart nicely, with every part of the assembly well thought out to aid ease of production.
It really was a nice unit to work on.
With the head unit fully stripped down, I could remove the main PCB from the chassis.
A visual inspection of the main input connector and CD changer terminals was performed, along with the terminals of the main power output MOSFET component. The solder fillets looked generally ok, although it would benefit from a reflow on the main connector.
I got out my Weller WSD81 soldering station and some flux, and got to work reflowing these 3 main areas.
After reflowing, all terminals looked good.
Re-assembly was a breeze and the head unit was re-installed back into the car without any issues.
Upon power up, everything worked fine with the issue not being present.
The situation will be monitored to see if it re-occurred but so far so good.
It may be worth checking out the CD changer at a later date to see if any issues are apparent on this assembly.
I know it is probably easier to just buy a modern head unit, but I just love the OEM originality.
With the car not being the daily, a modern head unit is not really required.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 57 - Revert Air Filter from K&N Back to OEM
19-05-2019
After a good amount of time using the K&N drop in filter, my conclusion is that it provides very little benefits.
With the original air box modified slightly in task 52 to provide alittle more sound without compromising on power, there was very little or none at all differences between the two filters.
The K&N filter does increase bhp by 1 or2 horse power, but has to sacrifice some filtration.
To be fair, 1 or 2 horse power would be very hard to feel, especially with there being so many factors and variations in driving conditions, air temperatures and state of the car.
There also has been reports of K&N filters damaging MAP sensors, although I am unable to confirm if this is true.
The only real benefit of having the K&N filter is that it is washable and re-usable. However seeing that the s2000 is not a daily and only used sparingly, the OEM paper filter would not need to be changed as often.
Even if the car was used as a daily, I would be quite concerned about letting in more debris everyday on your commute for the sake of negligible increase in response.
To this degree, I have decided that the original Honda OEM filter will be re-installed.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 58 – Novice Track Day Preparation
01-06-2019
Earlier in the year, me and brother decided that it was time to get the cars out on a track day.
Not wanting the track day to be too aggressive, we both decided to do a novice evening.
The track I have always wanted to do was Brands Hatch, together with the s2000 it would be a personal bucket list moment.
Together with this, my s2000 is 20 years old this year. What an event to celebrate its 20th birthday.
The track day was booked for the 5th June 2019.
All the tasks leading up to the track day help prepare the car, and cover all the basics to ensure the car stayed reliable on the day.
Final checks were done which included
-Torque on all Spark plugs
-All fluid checks
-Brake fluid moisture content check (less than 1%) – Pass
(using a Laser 4875 brake fluid tester)
-Engine visual inspection (no leaks or loose clips or connectors)
-All wheels removed, visual inspection performed
-All body works secured
-Exhaust items secured, no loose bolts
-Wheel bolts torqued up
-Tyre pressures checked
-Front tow hook check and fitted
-All tools/equipment and trolley jack loaded in boot
-Car cleaned
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 59 – Novice Track Day Evening @ Brand Hatch
05-06-2019
The day finally arrived.
With all the works performed on the s2000, it was ready for some fun.
In attendance was:
-Myself in my 1999 Honda s2000
-My brother in his B16a powered 1994 Honda Civic Coupe
-An old friend in his 2013 BMW M135i
-Another old friend tagging along as a passenger in my s2000.
Due to the nature of these events and the value of the s2000, I decided on getting track day insurance.
From sky insurance it was a reasonable £97 cover for the day.
Incidents on track day events are usually quite rare, but it is great peace of mind just in case anything were to happen.
Great website, purchase online and receive your certificate in minutes
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-day-insurance...
Absolutely epic day, fun was had by all and I did not want it to end.
Naturally we all felt slightly nervous at the beginning, but we all gained confidence in our cars as the evening went on.
The Honda s2000 performed flawlessly throughout all 4 sessions.
What a machine the s2000 is, Honda was on top of their game back in 1999 when they designed this car.
The chassis inspired confidence on every turn, coupled with its lovely gearbox, rev match on the down shift was a joy to execute when I could.
That f20 engine never missed a beat and revved flawlessly to 9k rpm every time I asked it too. What an engine, what a machine!
The s2000 stayed flat around the corners and flex of the whole car was barely noticeable. Just goes to show that x-bone frame was a master piece of design and engineering.
I was amazed at the capability of such a standard stock OEM car on road tyres (with the exception of slightly upgraded pads and stainless brake lines)
The brake performance was fantastic, no fade was felt and bite was excellent. It does goes to show all you need is good brake fluid (Castrol React Performance) and better than OEM pads (in this case ds2500 pads).
There were some lovely cars on track, most of which were alot faster than the s2000. Some were also alot slower consisting of a standard mini cooper and even a standard tdci Mondeo.
I think the closest competition I had was with a 2003 Porsche Boxster. His car seemed quite serious as it had a roll cage, but the s2000 kept up with it even around the corners despite the s2000 being stock.
The s2000 just felt at home on circuit, I am really glad I managed to take my s2000 on track as it was intended for.
I know track days aren’t for everyone. The pitfalls and expensive drama’s that can result in such event, but I would highly recommend it to anyone to fully feel the capability of the s2000.
Thanks to Matt Clay for taking the photos on the first session whilst we were queuing in the pit lane and out on track.
What an incredible day.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
MSV Track Days
https://www.msvtrackdays.com/car
Track Day Insurance
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-day-insurance...
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list
To-do List
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)
Long Term To-Do
-Rectify lower arch rust issues
-Respray bonnet and boot lid due to paint surface defects
-Maybe colour code headlight washers and rear bumper lower lip section
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading guys
09-06-19
Olivera said:
Good job OP.
It just goes to show just how much maintenance a ~20 year old car needs, even a Honda, to keep it in good condition.
Thanks Olivera, they do indeed. It seems car's that dont get used often tend to really need alot of maintenance.It just goes to show just how much maintenance a ~20 year old car needs, even a Honda, to keep it in good condition.
helix402 said:
A great write up and lovely attention to detail.
Thanks helix402TotalControl said:
Awesome write up. Really enjoyed reading that.
Thanks totalcontrol, glad you enjoyed it CABC said:
looks like a really good base car op.
S2000 looks like a contender for the over engineered thread. certainly well engineered.
Thanks CABC, it certainly needed abit of attention from the start. I think by doing the work I really got to know how the car is put together.S2000 looks like a contender for the over engineered thread. certainly well engineered.
They certainly wouldn't make a car like this ever again.
I don't even own an S2K (a good mate of mine does though), but I've just read this entire thread.
Props to you! I admire the attention to detail. Fancy looking after my CL7 for 6 months? Hehe.
I all seriousness though, have you maintained your daily in a similar vein? Its an '06 Accord isn't it?
Would be really interested in similar jobs done to keep that in good nick, as they'd probably apply to my car too.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with the S!
Props to you! I admire the attention to detail. Fancy looking after my CL7 for 6 months? Hehe.
I all seriousness though, have you maintained your daily in a similar vein? Its an '06 Accord isn't it?
Would be really interested in similar jobs done to keep that in good nick, as they'd probably apply to my car too.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with the S!
Kewy said:
I don't even own an S2K (a good mate of mine does though), but I've just read this entire thread.
Props to you! I admire the attention to detail. Fancy looking after my CL7 for 6 months? Hehe.
I all seriousness though, have you maintained your daily in a similar vein? Its an '06 Accord isn't it?
Would be really interested in similar jobs done to keep that in good nick, as they'd probably apply to my car too.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with the S!
Thanks for your kind words Kewy. Really glad you enjoyed reading it. Props to you! I admire the attention to detail. Fancy looking after my CL7 for 6 months? Hehe.
I all seriousness though, have you maintained your daily in a similar vein? Its an '06 Accord isn't it?
Would be really interested in similar jobs done to keep that in good nick, as they'd probably apply to my car too.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with the S!
Yeah I have a 7th Gen Accord I-CTDI diesel Accord EX as the daily, I do love the CL7 and would have bought it if I didn't need the range of the i-ctdi diesel.
As a matter of fact I was pretty in-depth with the Accord when I bought it back in 2014, I did pretty much the same as i did to the s2000 to bring it back to a high standard. I bought the Accord pretty cheap back then and it was a punt but it has paid off. It was in a pretty poor condition.
Since doing all the work on the Accord, I haven't really done much to it since 2016 now, as I am very happy with its standard, everything just works and its now at 205k miles and still running and driving beautifully.
Its just a matter of keeping it maintained to a high standard with 6000 mile oil changes/ EGR cleans and other fluid cheanges with the mileage I do.
Heres my thread on "type Accord" if your interested.
I might port it over to Piston Heads one day.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/17195-my-honda...
s2000_f20 said:
Kewy said:
I don't even own an S2K (a good mate of mine does though), but I've just read this entire thread.
Props to you! I admire the attention to detail. Fancy looking after my CL7 for 6 months? Hehe.
I all seriousness though, have you maintained your daily in a similar vein? Its an '06 Accord isn't it?
Would be really interested in similar jobs done to keep that in good nick, as they'd probably apply to my car too.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with the S!
Thanks for your kind words Kewy. Really glad you enjoyed reading it. Props to you! I admire the attention to detail. Fancy looking after my CL7 for 6 months? Hehe.
I all seriousness though, have you maintained your daily in a similar vein? Its an '06 Accord isn't it?
Would be really interested in similar jobs done to keep that in good nick, as they'd probably apply to my car too.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with the S!
Yeah I have a 7th Gen Accord I-CTDI diesel Accord EX as the daily, I do love the CL7 and would have bought it if I didn't need the range of the i-ctdi diesel.
As a matter of fact I was pretty in-depth with the Accord when I bought it back in 2014, I did pretty much the same as i did to the s2000 to bring it back to a high standard. I bought the Accord pretty cheap back then and it was a punt but it has paid off. It was in a pretty poor condition.
Since doing all the work on the Accord, I haven't really done much to it since 2016 now, as I am very happy with its standard, everything just works and its now at 205k miles and still running and driving beautifully.
Its just a matter of keeping it maintained to a high standard with 6000 mile oil changes/ EGR cleans and other fluid cheanges with the mileage I do.
Heres my thread on "type Accord" if your interested.
I might port it over to Piston Heads one day.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/17195-my-honda...
You've just made my day. Gives me a good bit of lunchtime reading.
I've been fairly good to mine over the last few years to be fair. More the bigger bits like suspension refresh, driveshafts, brakes and brake lines and so on. You're inspiring me to start looking at the often overlooked areas now though. Rubber seal treatment etc. It does get washed once a week almost religiously, including wheel arches, door seals and the like.
Which reminds me, I need to order a new Euro R badge as the one on the back of my car is only being held on by the 'R' now!
Kewy said:
I've just read the entirety of your Accord thread.
How much to book you and your knowledge for a weekend?! Haha. So many jobs added to the to-do list, not that I have the tools or expertise for a lot of them.
Haha, thats magic How much to book you and your knowledge for a weekend?! Haha. So many jobs added to the to-do list, not that I have the tools or expertise for a lot of them.
Really glad you enjoyed reading that too.I think most of that thread and the knowledge, was due to the helpful members of the forum and another forum called Honda Karma.
They both were dedicated Accord forums and really helped me with everything there was to know about the Accord.
I didnt mod the Accord but added a few handy features. I think the reverse camera was my top addition followed by the auto boot open.
I also have a thread for my once owned Honda Prelude 1999 2.2 vti if your interested. lol
Might have to also port that over to Piston Heads one day.
s2000_f20 said:
Haha, thats magic Really glad you enjoyed reading that too.
I think most of that thread and the knowledge, was due to the helpful members of the forum and another forum called Honda Karma.
They both were dedicated Accord forums and really helped me with everything there was to know about the Accord.
I didnt mod the Accord but added a few handy features. I think the reverse camera was my top addition followed by the auto boot open.
I also have a thread for my once owned Honda Prelude 1999 2.2 vti if your interested. lol
Might have to also port that over to Piston Heads one day.
Ah yeah I'm part of the Karma bunch on FB but don't bother with any other forums than this one to be honest. I should probably get involved but I remember when I checked in before the updates were quite sparse! Really glad you enjoyed reading that too.I think most of that thread and the knowledge, was due to the helpful members of the forum and another forum called Honda Karma.
They both were dedicated Accord forums and really helped me with everything there was to know about the Accord.
I didnt mod the Accord but added a few handy features. I think the reverse camera was my top addition followed by the auto boot open.
I also have a thread for my once owned Honda Prelude 1999 2.2 vti if your interested. lol
Might have to also port that over to Piston Heads one day.
Yeh some great work done on the Accord mate, props! I've added a few of those jobs to my project list, the Shin Etsu grease is on my shopping list along with some CRC spray! Also need to check my aux belt routing, not sure if it would still apply to my K20 but would like to re-route it if I can. I've already replaced the alternator once.
I've booked marked all the guides and would love to do the boot opening mod but it doesn't look like a straight forward job haha. Do you know how fast the boot flings open if you just add the springs without the gas struts?
Yeh fire away with the Prelude thread, I could read in-depth car blogs like that all day long
Kewy said:
Ah yeah I'm part of the Karma bunch on FB but don't bother with any other forums than this one to be honest. I should probably get involved but I remember when I checked in before the updates were quite sparse!
Yeh some great work done on the Accord mate, props! I've added a few of those jobs to my project list, the Shin Etsu grease is on my shopping list along with some CRC spray! Also need to check my aux belt routing, not sure if it would still apply to my K20 but would like to re-route it if I can. I've already replaced the alternator once.
I've booked marked all the guides and would love to do the boot opening mod but it doesn't look like a straight forward job haha. Do you know how fast the boot flings open if you just add the springs without the gas struts?
Yeh fire away with the Prelude thread, I could read in-depth car blogs like that all day long
Thanks Kewy,Yeh some great work done on the Accord mate, props! I've added a few of those jobs to my project list, the Shin Etsu grease is on my shopping list along with some CRC spray! Also need to check my aux belt routing, not sure if it would still apply to my K20 but would like to re-route it if I can. I've already replaced the alternator once.
I've booked marked all the guides and would love to do the boot opening mod but it doesn't look like a straight forward job haha. Do you know how fast the boot flings open if you just add the springs without the gas struts?
Yeh fire away with the Prelude thread, I could read in-depth car blogs like that all day long
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