Fiesta ST MK7.5 Track car
Discussion
The car is now starting to get there but i still have a lot do get done before August as i am looking to do the cars first track day at Castle Combe and then look to head to Spa in September .
The next job done was to fit an Airtec 13 row oil cooler and thermostat housing to keep oil temps in check .
As im running the Airtec stage 3 intercooler the Airtec oil cooler mounts to this with the fixing plate .
Test fitting the oil pipes .
PTFE tape
OEM oil cooler removed
Oil pipes and oil cooler installed
thermostat housing and pipes installed with pipe fixing brackets
The next job done was to fit an Airtec 13 row oil cooler and thermostat housing to keep oil temps in check .
As im running the Airtec stage 3 intercooler the Airtec oil cooler mounts to this with the fixing plate .
Test fitting the oil pipes .
PTFE tape
OEM oil cooler removed
Oil pipes and oil cooler installed
thermostat housing and pipes installed with pipe fixing brackets
Next part done is new oil and filter .
Stock Ford oil filter and the stock oil is a 5W20 or 5W30 grade but as the car is going to be on track for most of its life i have gone with a thicker 5W40 grade to give more protection on track .
Just looking at Spa in September / October and its all sold out so i might head back to the Nurburgring or look to do 3-4 days in the UK this year .
Stock Ford oil filter and the stock oil is a 5W20 or 5W30 grade but as the car is going to be on track for most of its life i have gone with a thicker 5W40 grade to give more protection on track .
Just looking at Spa in September / October and its all sold out so i might head back to the Nurburgring or look to do 3-4 days in the UK this year .
Im starting to get there i think after having the car in the garage up on axle stands for the last 2 months im getting close to getting the car back on the road and then on track for the first time .
Next job now done was to upgrade the front braking system as the stock system is good for road use and still ok running 300 + BHP on the road but overheats on track part due to the smaller OEM discs not being able to deal with the extra heat .
The stock front brakes are a single piston set up with 278mm discs .
I have got a new AP racing set up that i have replaced the stock front OEM brakes with that improve braking power and combat any heat issues .
The new caliper is a AP racing 4 pot set up .
And next to the stock OEM unit
Adapter alloy brackets
and some thread lock just to be safe .
The front discs are a 2 piece 330mm size with a floating disc and J hook set up
|https://thumbsnap.com/J2xdcf4J[/url]
Stock OEM vs new
And installed
New Hell braided brake lines to replace Mountune longer units
Pagid RS29 pads
Stock and OEM front pads vs new Pagid RS29 pads
[url]
Some fresh Motul RBF 660 brake fluid
And all installed
Next job now done was to upgrade the front braking system as the stock system is good for road use and still ok running 300 + BHP on the road but overheats on track part due to the smaller OEM discs not being able to deal with the extra heat .
The stock front brakes are a single piston set up with 278mm discs .
I have got a new AP racing set up that i have replaced the stock front OEM brakes with that improve braking power and combat any heat issues .
The new caliper is a AP racing 4 pot set up .
And next to the stock OEM unit
Adapter alloy brackets
and some thread lock just to be safe .
The front discs are a 2 piece 330mm size with a floating disc and J hook set up
|https://thumbsnap.com/J2xdcf4J[/url]Stock OEM vs new
And installed
New Hell braided brake lines to replace Mountune longer units
Pagid RS29 pads
Stock and OEM front pads vs new Pagid RS29 pads
[url]Some fresh Motul RBF 660 brake fluid
And all installed
Many thanks for the info as i have not fitted an oil cooler before so was thinking PTFE would be good to stop any leeks but can now see that this is not needed after reading in to AN fitting types and how they work .
I owe you a beer
I owe you a beer
E-bmw said:
You have shown PTFE thread tape in use on your oil cooler fittings, you don't want that on there.
If you undo the fitting & take it off you will see why, it threads up & can get drawn in in strings & cause blockages.
PTFE tape should only ever be used on tapered thread forms such as BSP(T) or NPT as it is the threads that for the seal, on the AN fittings that you have used the cone on the top of the fitting is the sealing surface.
If you undo the fitting & take it off you will see why, it threads up & can get drawn in in strings & cause blockages.
PTFE tape should only ever be used on tapered thread forms such as BSP(T) or NPT as it is the threads that for the seal, on the AN fittings that you have used the cone on the top of the fitting is the sealing surface.
So last night i removed the PTFE tape from the oil cooler AN fixing and re fitted all the fixing as per E-BMW advise .
I also had some time to fit some new Airtec brake cooling guides .
As the stock set up struggles on track with heat they should help out a lot combined with the bigger brakes and pads .
Ad installed a nice easy upgrade .
Its the same type as the Boomba unit below that shows how the help with the airflow .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO57QlTn_e4
I also had some time to fit some new Airtec brake cooling guides .
As the stock set up struggles on track with heat they should help out a lot combined with the bigger brakes and pads .
Ad installed a nice easy upgrade .
Its the same type as the Boomba unit below that shows how the help with the airflow .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO57QlTn_e4
Edited by kaveney on Thursday 11th July 13:32
Think i can live with the weight of around 0.5 Kg for the fog lights as the car will not be a striped out car ( iv done that before ) and will still be driven to all tracks so some road driving and as the air deflectors do the same job whats the point of getting ducting .
geeks said:
It's a track car, what use are fog lights beyond weight and something to break? I mean each to their own, it's your car but even so... seems a bit pointless..
I will see how i get on and if i get any cooling issues but it is something i have seen before along with drilling holes in the front bumper .
its only 3 years old so i would rather not attack the bodywork just yet but will see how we go .
Noted on the grammar and i will try and not get pulled by the spelling police again
its only 3 years old so i would rather not attack the bodywork just yet but will see how we go .
Noted on the grammar and i will try and not get pulled by the spelling police again
ChocolateFrog said:
A good read so far. Looks like the front grille is partially blocked off? Might be worth opening up the blanking off.
Without wanting to sound too much like a patronising dick you mix up your leeks and leaks, cheep and cheap.
Without wanting to sound too much like a patronising dick you mix up your leeks and leaks, cheep and cheap.
Looks to flow air well enough in the below vid to the discs but we will see .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO57QlTn_e4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO57QlTn_e4
alex98uk said:
I felt like those wind deflectors likely wouldn't do anything. There isn't really enough channeling to effectively move air to a target as far as I can see.
But, to be honest, I haven't scientifcally tested anything, so my solution could also be pants. It was easy though, 3 screws per fog light and a plug. Could do it by unscrewing a bit of the arch liner.
But, to be honest, I haven't scientifcally tested anything, so my solution could also be pants. It was easy though, 3 screws per fog light and a plug. Could do it by unscrewing a bit of the arch liner.
Good Shout and i will look to get some high temp hose to protect the ABS cable .
SlimJim16v said:
Without the shield, the cable for the ABS will get heated on-track by the disc and start to melt. Either cut the piece of shield that goes between disc and cable and refit, or fit high temp cable/hose covers.
Ask me how I know
Ask me how I know
Got a few more bits done at the weekend .
I have been told that the OEM rear rear beam to chassis bush is a bit soft and can move a bit so have replaced this with a Powerflex unit .
New Powerflex unit
|https://thumbsnap.com/Jm9pOkMk[/url]
Getting the old unit out was easy enough .
[url]
New Powerflex unit installed
I have been told that the OEM rear rear beam to chassis bush is a bit soft and can move a bit so have replaced this with a Powerflex unit .
New Powerflex unit
|https://thumbsnap.com/Jm9pOkMk[/url]Getting the old unit out was easy enough .
[url]New Powerflex unit installed
You need to unbolt the stock mount but the stock bolt will not clear the fuel tank so you need to unbolt the mounting plate x 3 bolts and then unbolt the suspension and drop the rear beam so you can get the bolt out .
Drill or press out the stock rubber mount and then replace with new powerflex one and bolt everything back together .
Easy enough to do and worth it im told by Collins performance .
Drill or press out the stock rubber mount and then replace with new powerflex one and bolt everything back together .
Easy enough to do and worth it im told by Collins performance .
alex98uk said:
Mind giving me a quick explanation so I know for the future? Just what I need to unbolt etc...
The best set up IMO is 32 Front and 25 rear hot but this is on 215/40/17 ADO8r but keep an eye on temps as when i was last there i had to drop the pressure a few times on my old MR2 track car .
gashead1105 said:
Sorry for another highjack but was hoping you could help. I'm off to Bedford on Monday for a trackday. Car is standard so running the OE Bridgestone RE050As. Do you have any suggestions for where I should be aiming to keep the tyre pressures (hot)? Manual is saying 39 front and 28 rear (PSI) for consistent motorway running at autobahn speeds, but that seems to high on the front in particular - esp as 39 PSI cold is likely over 50PSI hot! I was thinking of starting at 33/26 and seeing what happens...
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