Mercedes SL320 R129 - Part 2
Discussion
I had previously taken it to Stronachlachar.
It's lovely there, but the road from Kinlochard to Stronachlachar is in a pretty shocking state and gave the old Merc good rattling.
Loch Arklet on the road to Stronachlachar
One of the worst offenders for squeaking was the triangular trim piece on the nearside door. It didn't fit properly and on the way home the squeaking annoyed me that much that I took it off.
So, that was next on the list.
I noticed that the top of the door trim was bowed out a bit just below the triangular trim so decided that was contributing to the problem.
Flushed with the success of removing the OS door trim I decided it was worth a look.
The first surprise on removing the door trim was this .......
Now, I'm no audio expert, but could this be causing the lack of bass form the nearside .............
A quick rummage around my garage revealed an old pioneer speaker which is older than the car.
I blew the dust of it, fitted some suitable wiring connectors and made some retaining brackets. Lined the frame with some sticky back cloth foam stuff and it works (mostly).
Like I said, I'm no audio expert but it is definitely better.
Forgot to mention, only the radio currently works. I can load CD's but get an error message and the discs pop back out.
The radio is ok but loses reception when I head off to the hills. I may change the unit at some point ...... or not.
When the roof is down there is a fair bit of noise and trying to listen to music over that is not very appealing to me.
I don't listen to music when biking and the Discovery has a fantastic sound system if that's what I need.
The car had been fitted with a Parrot system at some point. I don't know if it works. I found part of it jammed down the side of the seat where it had been squashed I assume by the seat being moved. If I change the head unit I will also pull all the extra wiring associated with the parrot.
Back to the door trim repair.
I found that I could not get the top of the door trim, near the front, to stay in it's clips. I think it has been bent out for too long as is now set with a curve that is stronger than the retaining clips.
The little retaining tang at the bottom of the triangular piece was broken and only held in place by the vinyl trim.
I repaired it with a bent strip of aluminium (for weight saving) and some araldite.
The squeak appeared to be from the two pieces of trim rubbing together so I fitted some pieces of the sticky back cloth stuff to see if that would help keep them apart.
It worked.
But, I wish I had been a bit neater with trimming the foam. Time will tell if I leave it like that or if I go back for another go.
Over the months I have had a few goes at cleaning the inside and each time it gets a wee bit better. Being so light coloured, it does not hide marks well.
It has taken me a while but I am now used to the bright interior.
Heading into Inveraray the other day, I got a wave from a gent in a silver SL.
I've not had that for a long time. Happens all the time with bikers but I think I would need to go back to my time with the old beetle or the series 3 Land Rover when that was common place.
What's next?
Clock up some miles with the roof down.
Future jobs?
The front shocks have been changed but I think the rears are original. They feel fine when driving so will stay for now.
I should keep on top of the bits of rust around the car so may remove the rear arch liners and tidy it up.
I did notice when putting the car back together that the underseal under the battery had a wee bit of a crunch when pushed.
I decided to ignore it for now. I suspect that will need further investigation come winter time.
The car would ideally get a respray but that would mean sorting the front wings.
The NS arch was scraped against something before I got it and was bare metal. For now I have ground it down, treated it and covered it in black paint. It'll do for now.
The front bumper is riddled with chips and has been broken and repaired before. I might DIY it to tidy it up.
Two of the tyres go down slowly and all four need replaced before much longer. I may get the wheels refurbed at the same time.
Just remembered - I kept the old rear springs but swapped them over. I also swapped the rubber cups on the front springs when I fitted the second set of LCA's. The car now sits pretty level.
And that's me up to date.
Maintenance spend tracker - £1,519
It is a nice car to drive. Well suited to country roads and plenty fast enough for me. I'm getting 30mpg but I do drive quite sedately.
I would say it is a practical classic. It is very easy to live with and so far has been quite easy to work on (apart from getting teh subframe off).
I like the engineered solid build.
I like wee things like the fact that the brake back shields are still solid after 19 years. It's good to be spending time working on a car that is not winding down it's last few years.
My time wandering around the classic shows left me encouraged that I had made a good choice with the SL.
The quality aspect suits me and the usability of the car is good.
The back seat is a perfect size for my daughters dachshund..... and not much else really.
It's lovely there, but the road from Kinlochard to Stronachlachar is in a pretty shocking state and gave the old Merc good rattling.
Loch Arklet on the road to Stronachlachar
One of the worst offenders for squeaking was the triangular trim piece on the nearside door. It didn't fit properly and on the way home the squeaking annoyed me that much that I took it off.
So, that was next on the list.
I noticed that the top of the door trim was bowed out a bit just below the triangular trim so decided that was contributing to the problem.
Flushed with the success of removing the OS door trim I decided it was worth a look.
The first surprise on removing the door trim was this .......
Now, I'm no audio expert, but could this be causing the lack of bass form the nearside .............
A quick rummage around my garage revealed an old pioneer speaker which is older than the car.
I blew the dust of it, fitted some suitable wiring connectors and made some retaining brackets. Lined the frame with some sticky back cloth foam stuff and it works (mostly).
Like I said, I'm no audio expert but it is definitely better.
Forgot to mention, only the radio currently works. I can load CD's but get an error message and the discs pop back out.
The radio is ok but loses reception when I head off to the hills. I may change the unit at some point ...... or not.
When the roof is down there is a fair bit of noise and trying to listen to music over that is not very appealing to me.
I don't listen to music when biking and the Discovery has a fantastic sound system if that's what I need.
The car had been fitted with a Parrot system at some point. I don't know if it works. I found part of it jammed down the side of the seat where it had been squashed I assume by the seat being moved. If I change the head unit I will also pull all the extra wiring associated with the parrot.
Back to the door trim repair.
I found that I could not get the top of the door trim, near the front, to stay in it's clips. I think it has been bent out for too long as is now set with a curve that is stronger than the retaining clips.
The little retaining tang at the bottom of the triangular piece was broken and only held in place by the vinyl trim.
I repaired it with a bent strip of aluminium (for weight saving) and some araldite.
The squeak appeared to be from the two pieces of trim rubbing together so I fitted some pieces of the sticky back cloth stuff to see if that would help keep them apart.
It worked.
But, I wish I had been a bit neater with trimming the foam. Time will tell if I leave it like that or if I go back for another go.
Over the months I have had a few goes at cleaning the inside and each time it gets a wee bit better. Being so light coloured, it does not hide marks well.
It has taken me a while but I am now used to the bright interior.
Heading into Inveraray the other day, I got a wave from a gent in a silver SL.
I've not had that for a long time. Happens all the time with bikers but I think I would need to go back to my time with the old beetle or the series 3 Land Rover when that was common place.
What's next?
Clock up some miles with the roof down.
Future jobs?
The front shocks have been changed but I think the rears are original. They feel fine when driving so will stay for now.
I should keep on top of the bits of rust around the car so may remove the rear arch liners and tidy it up.
I did notice when putting the car back together that the underseal under the battery had a wee bit of a crunch when pushed.
I decided to ignore it for now. I suspect that will need further investigation come winter time.
The car would ideally get a respray but that would mean sorting the front wings.
The NS arch was scraped against something before I got it and was bare metal. For now I have ground it down, treated it and covered it in black paint. It'll do for now.
The front bumper is riddled with chips and has been broken and repaired before. I might DIY it to tidy it up.
Two of the tyres go down slowly and all four need replaced before much longer. I may get the wheels refurbed at the same time.
Just remembered - I kept the old rear springs but swapped them over. I also swapped the rubber cups on the front springs when I fitted the second set of LCA's. The car now sits pretty level.
And that's me up to date.
Maintenance spend tracker - £1,519
It is a nice car to drive. Well suited to country roads and plenty fast enough for me. I'm getting 30mpg but I do drive quite sedately.
I would say it is a practical classic. It is very easy to live with and so far has been quite easy to work on (apart from getting teh subframe off).
I like the engineered solid build.
I like wee things like the fact that the brake back shields are still solid after 19 years. It's good to be spending time working on a car that is not winding down it's last few years.
My time wandering around the classic shows left me encouraged that I had made a good choice with the SL.
The quality aspect suits me and the usability of the car is good.
The back seat is a perfect size for my daughters dachshund..... and not much else really.
There has been a lot of talk for a lot of years about prices increasing but from what I have seen prices seem to be pretty steady which is probably for the best.
There seems to be lots for sale around £4 or £5k and while some of them will be poor, I would imagine there are some good buys out there.
Dealers have the £15 to £20k or more cars but they do seem to have them for a long time.
Mine is effectively a big toy, bought as a more practical version of a motorbike where it’s more suited to the weather and for walking around a destination. My bike boots and all the clobber are not good for walking about.
There seems to be lots for sale around £4 or £5k and while some of them will be poor, I would imagine there are some good buys out there.
Dealers have the £15 to £20k or more cars but they do seem to have them for a long time.
Mine is effectively a big toy, bought as a more practical version of a motorbike where it’s more suited to the weather and for walking around a destination. My bike boots and all the clobber are not good for walking about.
Hi J,
Impressive memory! Looking back at the receipts, the front shocks were indeed replaced in 2011.
I can understand how your wife managed to bump the bumper. If you look back at the Jedburgh picture on page one of the thread, I had not intended to park that far forward. The reg plate was actually under the metal barrier.
I hope your cabriolet is going well and that we get some better weather soon.
Impressive memory! Looking back at the receipts, the front shocks were indeed replaced in 2011.
I can understand how your wife managed to bump the bumper. If you look back at the Jedburgh picture on page one of the thread, I had not intended to park that far forward. The reg plate was actually under the metal barrier.
I hope your cabriolet is going well and that we get some better weather soon.
With the lovely weather we have had recently, the car has had a few runs. Nothing major, mostly just pottering about for the sake of it.
In June, on a day when it was 23 deg, I took a run to Castle Semple at Lochwinnoch for an ice cream. Perfect temperature for a liesurely drive. No need for the wind deflector or the side windows.
Returned via Quarriers Village.
If you like church conversions, there are some lovely houses built into what was Mount Zion Church
Stopped off for a picture in the perfect environment ..... for my other car.
I wanted to drive to the top of the hill but was too scared an angry farmer might come along.
While turning the heating off, the screen went a bit funny. I have since found that if I press the surround it returns to normal so I am in no hurry to mess with it. It doesn't affect the operation, just looks bad.
Having kind of repaired the speaker as previously mentioned, I have been looking at replacement units.
However, I decided to have a look at the non working CD player first.
When I insert a CD, the unit displays an error message and pops the CD back out.
I started with the optimistic approach that if I tried it many times it might just start working.
Optimism and reality - that did not work.
Next, I tried removing the unit. With it out of the dash, I tried inserting a CD again.
This time, when it ejected I noticed something else was in there.
I unplugged it and took it to the bench to remove the top and this is what I found.
PS - Don't tell anybody my radio code, it's a secret!
While we are on the interior, what are the slots in the centre console for?
I thought they would be for CD's but I cannot figure out how they would fit?
Sorry for the poor pictures but hopefully you get the idea.
While I had the CD out, I decided to remove the Parrot system. I was not planning to use it and the small controller had been squashed and broken down the side of the seat.
As an aside to removing the Parrot, the radio now shows the station name rather than the frequency which I am fairly sure is all it displayed before.
One dead parrot.
|https://thumbsnap.com/AIYlUszX[/url]
Last weekend I went to the beach at Seamill.
In the picture you might just be able to see my daughters wee dog in the back seat. The dog and the back "seat" are a good match.
In the background you might also spot a 124 Cab.
And very smart it was too
[url]
Jobs to be done .....
It will need tyres fairly soon, particularly as two of them lose pressure quite quickly.
I may, or may not, get the wheels refurbished at the same time.
The place that powder coated the subframe and other parts were excellent but I wasn't happy with the shade of silver that he was using. Picky? Me?
It does have some some squeaks and rattles but these have been a lot less of a concern since I got the CD working....
I haven't used it much with the roof up, but when I do I am aware of the faded rear plastic windows. Also, a small split has started in one of the small windows. I don't suppose that will get any better.
I managed to replace some missing stitching but I think that a full replacement might be beyond my skill and patience level.
I spotted a lovely 91 SL320 in Largs. Very good condition and with very clear windows. Sorry, no pictures.
In June, on a day when it was 23 deg, I took a run to Castle Semple at Lochwinnoch for an ice cream. Perfect temperature for a liesurely drive. No need for the wind deflector or the side windows.
Returned via Quarriers Village.
If you like church conversions, there are some lovely houses built into what was Mount Zion Church
Stopped off for a picture in the perfect environment ..... for my other car.
I wanted to drive to the top of the hill but was too scared an angry farmer might come along.
While turning the heating off, the screen went a bit funny. I have since found that if I press the surround it returns to normal so I am in no hurry to mess with it. It doesn't affect the operation, just looks bad.
Having kind of repaired the speaker as previously mentioned, I have been looking at replacement units.
However, I decided to have a look at the non working CD player first.
When I insert a CD, the unit displays an error message and pops the CD back out.
I started with the optimistic approach that if I tried it many times it might just start working.
Optimism and reality - that did not work.
Next, I tried removing the unit. With it out of the dash, I tried inserting a CD again.
This time, when it ejected I noticed something else was in there.
I unplugged it and took it to the bench to remove the top and this is what I found.
PS - Don't tell anybody my radio code, it's a secret!
While we are on the interior, what are the slots in the centre console for?
I thought they would be for CD's but I cannot figure out how they would fit?
Sorry for the poor pictures but hopefully you get the idea.
While I had the CD out, I decided to remove the Parrot system. I was not planning to use it and the small controller had been squashed and broken down the side of the seat.
As an aside to removing the Parrot, the radio now shows the station name rather than the frequency which I am fairly sure is all it displayed before.
One dead parrot.
|https://thumbsnap.com/AIYlUszX[/url]Last weekend I went to the beach at Seamill.
In the picture you might just be able to see my daughters wee dog in the back seat. The dog and the back "seat" are a good match.
In the background you might also spot a 124 Cab.
And very smart it was too
[url]Jobs to be done .....
It will need tyres fairly soon, particularly as two of them lose pressure quite quickly.
I may, or may not, get the wheels refurbished at the same time.
The place that powder coated the subframe and other parts were excellent but I wasn't happy with the shade of silver that he was using. Picky? Me?
It does have some some squeaks and rattles but these have been a lot less of a concern since I got the CD working....
I haven't used it much with the roof up, but when I do I am aware of the faded rear plastic windows. Also, a small split has started in one of the small windows. I don't suppose that will get any better.
I managed to replace some missing stitching but I think that a full replacement might be beyond my skill and patience level.
I spotted a lovely 91 SL320 in Largs. Very good condition and with very clear windows. Sorry, no pictures.
Also, still not sure this is the car for me. Actually, I'm not sure a convertible is for me.
I bought this as a practical alternative to replace my motorbike.
Not sure I am ready for that yet and have been looking at replacing my bike with a newer one.
If I do decide to sell it, no doubt I will wait until winter when nobody is looking to buy.
I bought this as a practical alternative to replace my motorbike.
Not sure I am ready for that yet and have been looking at replacing my bike with a newer one.
If I do decide to sell it, no doubt I will wait until winter when nobody is looking to buy.
I took the car for a run on one of the sunny days. Ended up at Crarae Gardens approx 10 miles past Inverary. Very pleasant it was too.
I had the little dog as a travelling companion but you can see the car in the background.
As mentioned a few times, I bought the convertible as a practical alternative to the motorbike but I don't really think open top motoring is for me.
And, well, you know how it is ..... rather than sell my bike, I kept looking at new ones and ..... not surprisingly, I have ordered a new one.
On that basis, I am going to advertise the SL and see if I get a buyer.
Decisions, decisions. I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure.
I had the little dog as a travelling companion but you can see the car in the background.
As mentioned a few times, I bought the convertible as a practical alternative to the motorbike but I don't really think open top motoring is for me.
And, well, you know how it is ..... rather than sell my bike, I kept looking at new ones and ..... not surprisingly, I have ordered a new one.
On that basis, I am going to advertise the SL and see if I get a buyer.
Decisions, decisions. I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure.
Thank guys.
Prices for these are all over the place. They seem to be advertised anywhere from £3k to over £20k.
I think I paid a fair price for it and I hope to get that back although I have added nearly £1,500 in parts.
Part of the reason I chose the R129 was the comments I had read about how the Mercs of this era were built.
I have enjoyed working on a car that was not built with a short life and disposability in mind.
I know that most buyers don't care what happens to their brand new car after three years so why should a manufacturer build for long life.
It might seem odd, but it's wee things that appeal to me - even after 19 years, the brake back plates are still in excellent condition.
I have had other cars where at 10 years old you can wiggle off the last crusty remains of the back plates.
It would appear that they had not heard of the term "value engineering" when these were built.
Prices for these are all over the place. They seem to be advertised anywhere from £3k to over £20k.
I think I paid a fair price for it and I hope to get that back although I have added nearly £1,500 in parts.
Part of the reason I chose the R129 was the comments I had read about how the Mercs of this era were built.
I have enjoyed working on a car that was not built with a short life and disposability in mind.
I know that most buyers don't care what happens to their brand new car after three years so why should a manufacturer build for long life.
It might seem odd, but it's wee things that appeal to me - even after 19 years, the brake back plates are still in excellent condition.
I have had other cars where at 10 years old you can wiggle off the last crusty remains of the back plates.
It would appear that they had not heard of the term "value engineering" when these were built.
I have advertised it on PH and Car & Classic.
Only had one email asking if I am flexible on price.
Quarriers is an unusual place. Friends used to live there in one of the converted houses and I like the Three Sisters Bake Coffee shop / Restaurant.
Why is the convertible not for me?
I'm embarrassed to admit it but I feel a bit conspicuous and self conscious when I'm in it. I tend to avoid towns where possible and head for the country roads which it is well suited to. A bit daft really as quite frankly, who cares.
I don't drive it that fast apart from the odd burst of acceleration or powering up a hill. It does drive very well.
Initially, the steering feels light but you soon adjust to it and it feels great through the bends. Equally, the brakes are quite confidence inspiring.
Each tank of fuel has worked out at 31mpg.
I can't recall if I mentioned it but it does not roll back on a hill when in drive. A very handy feature and all the more so since my modern 8 speed auto Discovery does roll back. Is that called progress?
If you do see me out and about in it, be sure to wave or flash the lights.
And, any excuse to add a picture. Just along the road from Coulport.
Only had one email asking if I am flexible on price.
Quarriers is an unusual place. Friends used to live there in one of the converted houses and I like the Three Sisters Bake Coffee shop / Restaurant.
Why is the convertible not for me?
I'm embarrassed to admit it but I feel a bit conspicuous and self conscious when I'm in it. I tend to avoid towns where possible and head for the country roads which it is well suited to. A bit daft really as quite frankly, who cares.
I don't drive it that fast apart from the odd burst of acceleration or powering up a hill. It does drive very well.
Initially, the steering feels light but you soon adjust to it and it feels great through the bends. Equally, the brakes are quite confidence inspiring.
Each tank of fuel has worked out at 31mpg.
I can't recall if I mentioned it but it does not roll back on a hill when in drive. A very handy feature and all the more so since my modern 8 speed auto Discovery does roll back. Is that called progress?
If you do see me out and about in it, be sure to wave or flash the lights.
And, any excuse to add a picture. Just along the road from Coulport.
New issue with the car.
Back around April when out for one of the first runs after doing the rear subframe refresh, the BAS / ESP amber light illuminated.
I switched the engine off, restarted it and it has been fine since then. I had forgotten about it.
Saturday evening, while out for a 100 mile round trip, the BAS / ESP light came on again.
I carried on driving and some other issues appeared.
At first it was fine, but after about 10 miles the cruise control started switching itself off. I could reset it and it would be okay for a while but the frequency of resets increased until I stopped using it.
Also, for a split second the gauges dropped to zero. It happened very quickly and only a few times so it was hard to be completely sure what happened but I think I saw the petrol and oil temp gauges drop momentarily.
Then, when braking firmly, the three adjacent lights came on. Two ambers and one red.
I carried on with some caution as I was nearly home.
After about 5 minutes the three additional lights went off again.
I garaged the car.
The next day I took it out and washed it. The obvious thing to do when a car has a fault.
I took it for a short run to dry off the brakes. Initially there were no lights but before I got home the BAS / ESP light was on again.
It's back in the garage while I consider my options.
I have an OBDII scanner that I have never actually used.
My car does not have an OBDII socket but has the 38 pin port under the bonnet. I have ordered an adapter cable to see if that works.
Other options ......
Get the correct scanner - Seems to be a lot of confusing options, choices and misinformation.
Get the local Indy to read the codes to see if that answers the question or gives a clue.
Get under the car - I was not entirely confident in the way the rear ABS cables connected in the plug that is under the rear seat. Might be worth a wee look.
More time reading multiple post on the internet.
Picture of the offending lights. The first three are amber, the last one is red.
Back around April when out for one of the first runs after doing the rear subframe refresh, the BAS / ESP amber light illuminated.
I switched the engine off, restarted it and it has been fine since then. I had forgotten about it.
Saturday evening, while out for a 100 mile round trip, the BAS / ESP light came on again.
I carried on driving and some other issues appeared.
At first it was fine, but after about 10 miles the cruise control started switching itself off. I could reset it and it would be okay for a while but the frequency of resets increased until I stopped using it.
Also, for a split second the gauges dropped to zero. It happened very quickly and only a few times so it was hard to be completely sure what happened but I think I saw the petrol and oil temp gauges drop momentarily.
Then, when braking firmly, the three adjacent lights came on. Two ambers and one red.
I carried on with some caution as I was nearly home.
After about 5 minutes the three additional lights went off again.
I garaged the car.
The next day I took it out and washed it. The obvious thing to do when a car has a fault.
I took it for a short run to dry off the brakes. Initially there were no lights but before I got home the BAS / ESP light was on again.
It's back in the garage while I consider my options.
I have an OBDII scanner that I have never actually used.
My car does not have an OBDII socket but has the 38 pin port under the bonnet. I have ordered an adapter cable to see if that works.
Other options ......
Get the correct scanner - Seems to be a lot of confusing options, choices and misinformation.
Get the local Indy to read the codes to see if that answers the question or gives a clue.
Get under the car - I was not entirely confident in the way the rear ABS cables connected in the plug that is under the rear seat. Might be worth a wee look.
More time reading multiple post on the internet.
Picture of the offending lights. The first three are amber, the last one is red.
Thank you for the tips.
I had come across the brake light switch suggestions and at that price it's probably a good idea to fit a new one to eliminate it.
While I don't like having problems, I do like to hear the solutions and how they were identified.
How does the car know that the brake light switch is not working?
It would need to know that the brakes have been applied and also that the brake light switch has not been activated. Clever.
I have not been back out to test it, but I wondered if the extra three lights came on as an extra warning when I braked firmly.
It would be good to have access to one of the programmers who setup the logic for all the circuits on these cars. It can seem complicated but is probably quite simple when you know what is actually going on.
An example being when my roof stopped going up or down. It was because the window mechanism had stripped some teeth.
At first that might seem odd and not relevant but when I found out that the roof controller needs to know where the windows are before working that made perfect sense.
I believe the 129 did suffer from decomposing wiring problems along with other models but it was around 95. My car should not be affected.
Just checked, the battery terminals are all tight.
Next time the light comes on I will try the steering full left to full right tip.
As an aside on OBD's, from what I have found it appears that a US 129 at the age of mine, 2000, would have the OBDII port under the steering column but it was not introduced on UK SL's until the R230.
From what I have read, the 38 pin OBD port under the bonnet on my car is using the same comms language as OBDII so hopefully my code reader will work.
I had come across the brake light switch suggestions and at that price it's probably a good idea to fit a new one to eliminate it.
While I don't like having problems, I do like to hear the solutions and how they were identified.
How does the car know that the brake light switch is not working?
It would need to know that the brakes have been applied and also that the brake light switch has not been activated. Clever.
I have not been back out to test it, but I wondered if the extra three lights came on as an extra warning when I braked firmly.
It would be good to have access to one of the programmers who setup the logic for all the circuits on these cars. It can seem complicated but is probably quite simple when you know what is actually going on.
An example being when my roof stopped going up or down. It was because the window mechanism had stripped some teeth.
At first that might seem odd and not relevant but when I found out that the roof controller needs to know where the windows are before working that made perfect sense.
I believe the 129 did suffer from decomposing wiring problems along with other models but it was around 95. My car should not be affected.
Just checked, the battery terminals are all tight.
Next time the light comes on I will try the steering full left to full right tip.
As an aside on OBD's, from what I have found it appears that a US 129 at the age of mine, 2000, would have the OBDII port under the steering column but it was not introduced on UK SL's until the R230.
From what I have read, the 38 pin OBD port under the bonnet on my car is using the same comms language as OBDII so hopefully my code reader will work.
OK, so I got the cable to connect the under bonnet round socket to my OBDII cable. It appears to have worked.
This is the first one which looks like something to do with the connections to the transmission.
I have come across a few threads about trans fluid in the electrical connector.
And the second one - Appears to be a transmission speed sensor and may, or may not, be connected with the above possibility.
More time required trawling the internet.
I don't want to risk disabling the car at the moment as I will need to be able to get the motorbike out this week to swap it for the new one.
This is the first one which looks like something to do with the connections to the transmission.
I have come across a few threads about trans fluid in the electrical connector.
And the second one - Appears to be a transmission speed sensor and may, or may not, be connected with the above possibility.
More time required trawling the internet.
I don't want to risk disabling the car at the moment as I will need to be able to get the motorbike out this week to swap it for the new one.
Well, I got my new bike on the 4th and it's already over 1,500 miles.
I think the Merc has taken a bit of a huff as the only use it gets is being moved out the garage to get the bike out.
The first sign of trouble was when nothing happened when turning the key to start the engine. It happened once but started fine at the next turn of the key. I thought I had imagined it or turned the key incorrectly.
Over the next few shunts in and out the garage it became obvious that there was indeed a problem. All the ignition lights come on but nothing happens when turning to the start position.
It appears to be linked to the gearbox limit switch as moving the gear lever has so far always allowed it to start.
On one occasion it seemed to have quite a bump when selecting reverse or drive but was back to normal the next day.
I should stop playing with my new toy and get it sorted.
The new toy - a bargists version of a motorbike - electric window, heated steering, heated seats front and rear, cruise control, remote central locking.
I think the Merc has taken a bit of a huff as the only use it gets is being moved out the garage to get the bike out.
The first sign of trouble was when nothing happened when turning the key to start the engine. It happened once but started fine at the next turn of the key. I thought I had imagined it or turned the key incorrectly.
Over the next few shunts in and out the garage it became obvious that there was indeed a problem. All the ignition lights come on but nothing happens when turning to the start position.
It appears to be linked to the gearbox limit switch as moving the gear lever has so far always allowed it to start.
On one occasion it seemed to have quite a bump when selecting reverse or drive but was back to normal the next day.
I should stop playing with my new toy and get it sorted.
The new toy - a bargists version of a motorbike - electric window, heated steering, heated seats front and rear, cruise control, remote central locking.
A little update......
DOH
The car was sitting in the drive while I was out on the bike and it rained while I was away.
Not wanting to put the car away with lots of standing water on it I decided to use the rubber blade of an ice scraper to sweep most of the water off.
It worked a treat.
Until a short time later when the sun came out and I could see that I had created a thousand little scratches straight down the bonnet at right across the boot lid.
DOH
I gave the car a wash and dried it off properly and put it back in the garage.
I used Autoglyms Paint Renovator which helped a bit but I think I used too much and was too heavy handed as that removed the scratches but created some new finer ones.
I went over it again a bit more carefully before finishing it off with Autoglym Super Resin Polish.
It feels lovely now and almost all the scratches have gone.
When viewed in daylight it may have a little haze in the colour .... or that might just me my paranoia.
Back to the BAS/EPC warning light.
It had added a few other issues.
Occasionally it will not start. The dash lights up but nothing when I turn the key to start the engine. If I move the gear lever it then starts so I assume there is an issue with the inhibitor switch.
It's hard to spot, but occasionally while driving, some of the gauges drop for a split second. It happens very quickly and is hard to spot. It's not advisable to stare at your gauges while driving!!
On two occasions over the last hundred miles it has given one or two hard gear changes. Very random.
Based on the error code and the fact that it has had an odd hard shift when selecting reverse or drive to get it in and out the garage and with guidance from the internet ....... I decided to change the conductor plate in the gearbox.
I collected together the parts and got on with it. A slightly messy job not helped by the fact that I could not shift the drain plug.
I decided not to persevere with that and just removed the sump pan to drain the oil.
As I don't have a parts washer I decide not to mess with the solenoid valves and just swapped over the conductor plate.
I also fitted a new wiring connector. There were no signs of oil leaking into the old one.
I do like the way the bonnet opens right up,
The bonnet pad may be past it's best.
The old conductor plate and plug
Put it all back together and took it for a test run .......
No difference whatsoever!
With the collection of small issues I am wondering if they are all connected.
So, I took it to the local Indy specialist and it is booked to go in for a check later this month.
In the meantime.
On my test drive I had the hood up which is not something I normally do. I noticed that one of the little vibration rattles was louder than usual which prompted me to investigate.
I found that this bit of plastic was partially detached.
Out with the Araldite and assorted clamps
All sorted and that little repair has been one of the best improvements that I have done to the car!!!!
I was aware of the rattle before and it seemed to be a minor irritation but was hard to spot when driving with the roof down.
It has brought a whole new level of calm to the driving experience.
There are still the odd noises here and there but for the most part, it is remarkably peaceful even with the roof down.
I hadn't really looked under these flaps before but I am guessing that somebody else has been trying to stop rattles as there is what looks like one side of a velcro fastener stuck to these flaps on both sides of the car? Doesn't look factory.
It was a lovely but cold day yesterday so I put the dog in the passenger seat, turned up the heating and went to Largs for a walk along the front. Ideal.
Please excuse the lamp post and bin in the picture. It's all about the composition.
DOH
The car was sitting in the drive while I was out on the bike and it rained while I was away.
Not wanting to put the car away with lots of standing water on it I decided to use the rubber blade of an ice scraper to sweep most of the water off.
It worked a treat.
Until a short time later when the sun came out and I could see that I had created a thousand little scratches straight down the bonnet at right across the boot lid.
DOH
I gave the car a wash and dried it off properly and put it back in the garage.
I used Autoglyms Paint Renovator which helped a bit but I think I used too much and was too heavy handed as that removed the scratches but created some new finer ones.
I went over it again a bit more carefully before finishing it off with Autoglym Super Resin Polish.
It feels lovely now and almost all the scratches have gone.
When viewed in daylight it may have a little haze in the colour .... or that might just me my paranoia.
Back to the BAS/EPC warning light.
It had added a few other issues.
Occasionally it will not start. The dash lights up but nothing when I turn the key to start the engine. If I move the gear lever it then starts so I assume there is an issue with the inhibitor switch.
It's hard to spot, but occasionally while driving, some of the gauges drop for a split second. It happens very quickly and is hard to spot. It's not advisable to stare at your gauges while driving!!
On two occasions over the last hundred miles it has given one or two hard gear changes. Very random.
Based on the error code and the fact that it has had an odd hard shift when selecting reverse or drive to get it in and out the garage and with guidance from the internet ....... I decided to change the conductor plate in the gearbox.
I collected together the parts and got on with it. A slightly messy job not helped by the fact that I could not shift the drain plug.
I decided not to persevere with that and just removed the sump pan to drain the oil.
As I don't have a parts washer I decide not to mess with the solenoid valves and just swapped over the conductor plate.
I also fitted a new wiring connector. There were no signs of oil leaking into the old one.
I do like the way the bonnet opens right up,
The bonnet pad may be past it's best.
The old conductor plate and plug
Put it all back together and took it for a test run .......
No difference whatsoever!
With the collection of small issues I am wondering if they are all connected.
So, I took it to the local Indy specialist and it is booked to go in for a check later this month.
In the meantime.
On my test drive I had the hood up which is not something I normally do. I noticed that one of the little vibration rattles was louder than usual which prompted me to investigate.
I found that this bit of plastic was partially detached.
Out with the Araldite and assorted clamps
All sorted and that little repair has been one of the best improvements that I have done to the car!!!!
I was aware of the rattle before and it seemed to be a minor irritation but was hard to spot when driving with the roof down.
It has brought a whole new level of calm to the driving experience.
There are still the odd noises here and there but for the most part, it is remarkably peaceful even with the roof down.
I hadn't really looked under these flaps before but I am guessing that somebody else has been trying to stop rattles as there is what looks like one side of a velcro fastener stuck to these flaps on both sides of the car? Doesn't look factory.
It was a lovely but cold day yesterday so I put the dog in the passenger seat, turned up the heating and went to Largs for a walk along the front. Ideal.
Please excuse the lamp post and bin in the picture. It's all about the composition.
TR4man may be onto something there ....... or, have you seen the film Christine?
From the start of Sept when I got the new bike I had not had a single journey where the BAS ESP light had not come on.
As mentioned above, I had tried a few things with no success and had booked it into the local Merc indy specialist.
Well, on the way there ..... no BAS ESP light. The journey was certainly long enough to have triggered it based on the previous six weeks journeys.
I left it with the garage and went back later that day to collect it.
They gave it a good check over, read all the codes, cleared the codes and took it for a test drive.
No BAS ESP light and no new codes showing.
Obviously, my code reader is of very limited use on this car.
Here are the reports showing the stored codes.
It's very detailed, even including the problems with the CD player.
The guy talked me through it.
The Canbus issues and the gauges dropping will be hard to resolve. May even need a new instrument cluster which is not available from Mercedes.
He suggested that the most likely source of the BAS ESP light was the OSR ABS sensor / ABS ring. He noted that the ABS ring was lifting a bit due to corrosion.
He suggested the ring was around £30 but that the ABS sensor is no longer available from Mercedes.
He also pointed out that one of the front strut top mount rubbers was cracked.
I called Mercedes parts.
The ABS ring - Not sold as a separate item - That only comes with a new driveshaft. £800!!!!
I had a look at the car and to my amateur eyes it still looks quite clean and neat. Not sure what to do about this as yet.
I ordered two new front top mounts.
I also ordered a new throttle position sensor. I think I mentioned before that there is a VERY slight stickiness in the throttle pedal. I find it a wee bit irritating as the car is quite sensitive to a bit of throttle.
I have already changed the cable which helped a bit so I am hoping that this cures it as it is £190 wasted otherwise.
The car had several good runs on Sunday and Monday, still with no BAS ESP light, I didn't see the gauges drop and not a single bumpy gearchange. A self healing car?
On Sunday I was at the Lochwinnoch car show. They had a lovely day for it and had a good turn out.
On Monday I went to get a quote for getting the wheels refurbished. They are in fairly good condition with only minor scuffs and some corrosion under the paint but as two do not hold pressure and as all four tyres need replaced I decided to get them tidied up.
I also went to a local trimmers for a quote to get the three plastic windows replaced. There are some very minor cracks that will only get worse and they are a bit opaque making it quite hard to see through.
My attempt at repairing the section of broken stitching has convinced me that a full DIY replacement is not a good idea.
The trimmer told me that he will remove the rear section from the car to do the work. I didn't know it was in two sections.
I will probably go ahead with the repair when I can get it organised.
Priority is the front strut mounts, wheels & tyres and an MoT due within a month.
The other code that I was interested in is B1706-002 which mentions the rear window defroster. When I got the car the hardtop was attached and I remember thinking that the heated rear window did not work.
However, I have no idea how to "Check control line to component N10/2" ........ or what N10/2 is ...... or what is a control line.
Pesky Canbus stuff.
This did have me looking at the Stags at the show, envious of their simple old 12V electrics. Obviously, the two that were there were not rusty wrecks like quite a few of them are.
In other news, some of the plastic trims along the top of the screen were cracked.
I'm struggling to justify £36 for each sun visor hinge cover so I had a go with some superglue.
OS before
OS after
NS after (no before picture)
I tried to do this centre trim in situ but without success
Did I mention the film Christine?
For the first 11 months that I have owned the car, opening the centre cubby was a two finger job. One to press the button and the other to push the lid up at the same time.
Well, it has sorted itself ...........
The car is probably still for sale but don't let it know!!
Probably the wrong time of year and it's due an Mot.
The advert on PH disappeared (I assumed wrongly that it stayed until I cancelled it) and I have deleted the advert from C&C.
From the start of Sept when I got the new bike I had not had a single journey where the BAS ESP light had not come on.
As mentioned above, I had tried a few things with no success and had booked it into the local Merc indy specialist.
Well, on the way there ..... no BAS ESP light. The journey was certainly long enough to have triggered it based on the previous six weeks journeys.
I left it with the garage and went back later that day to collect it.
They gave it a good check over, read all the codes, cleared the codes and took it for a test drive.
No BAS ESP light and no new codes showing.
Obviously, my code reader is of very limited use on this car.
Here are the reports showing the stored codes.
It's very detailed, even including the problems with the CD player.
The guy talked me through it.
The Canbus issues and the gauges dropping will be hard to resolve. May even need a new instrument cluster which is not available from Mercedes.
He suggested that the most likely source of the BAS ESP light was the OSR ABS sensor / ABS ring. He noted that the ABS ring was lifting a bit due to corrosion.
He suggested the ring was around £30 but that the ABS sensor is no longer available from Mercedes.
He also pointed out that one of the front strut top mount rubbers was cracked.
I called Mercedes parts.
The ABS ring - Not sold as a separate item - That only comes with a new driveshaft. £800!!!!
I had a look at the car and to my amateur eyes it still looks quite clean and neat. Not sure what to do about this as yet.
I ordered two new front top mounts.
I also ordered a new throttle position sensor. I think I mentioned before that there is a VERY slight stickiness in the throttle pedal. I find it a wee bit irritating as the car is quite sensitive to a bit of throttle.
I have already changed the cable which helped a bit so I am hoping that this cures it as it is £190 wasted otherwise.
The car had several good runs on Sunday and Monday, still with no BAS ESP light, I didn't see the gauges drop and not a single bumpy gearchange. A self healing car?
On Sunday I was at the Lochwinnoch car show. They had a lovely day for it and had a good turn out.
On Monday I went to get a quote for getting the wheels refurbished. They are in fairly good condition with only minor scuffs and some corrosion under the paint but as two do not hold pressure and as all four tyres need replaced I decided to get them tidied up.
I also went to a local trimmers for a quote to get the three plastic windows replaced. There are some very minor cracks that will only get worse and they are a bit opaque making it quite hard to see through.
My attempt at repairing the section of broken stitching has convinced me that a full DIY replacement is not a good idea.
The trimmer told me that he will remove the rear section from the car to do the work. I didn't know it was in two sections.
I will probably go ahead with the repair when I can get it organised.
Priority is the front strut mounts, wheels & tyres and an MoT due within a month.
The other code that I was interested in is B1706-002 which mentions the rear window defroster. When I got the car the hardtop was attached and I remember thinking that the heated rear window did not work.
However, I have no idea how to "Check control line to component N10/2" ........ or what N10/2 is ...... or what is a control line.
Pesky Canbus stuff.
This did have me looking at the Stags at the show, envious of their simple old 12V electrics. Obviously, the two that were there were not rusty wrecks like quite a few of them are.
In other news, some of the plastic trims along the top of the screen were cracked.
I'm struggling to justify £36 for each sun visor hinge cover so I had a go with some superglue.
OS before
OS after
NS after (no before picture)
I tried to do this centre trim in situ but without success
Did I mention the film Christine?
For the first 11 months that I have owned the car, opening the centre cubby was a two finger job. One to press the button and the other to push the lid up at the same time.
Well, it has sorted itself ...........
The car is probably still for sale but don't let it know!!
Probably the wrong time of year and it's due an Mot.
The advert on PH disappeared (I assumed wrongly that it stayed until I cancelled it) and I have deleted the advert from C&C.
r129sl - Your car is cutting power at 144!!!! Jings, that sounds fast. For two reasons that will not happen to me.
I have the economy model so it won't get to 144 and I am quite a sedate driver. I enjoy a bit of brisk driving but I am usually pretty close to the speed limit and as I am only driving in the UK, that means 70 ....ish.
Your warning lights issue does sound odd. I would love to know what causes that and what the solution would be.
Deefor62 - Thanks for the info on the N10. The cover on mine appears to be held on with 6 allen bolts and it looks like I would need to remove some of the scuttle plastics to get to it. The only problem at the moment is the heated rear window not working so I will leave it for now.
I have not decided if I will fit the hard top over winter. The car is garaged but will come out for some of the nicer days where the soft top will probably be down anyway.
So, to the update -
I ordered the TPS and the strut tops from Mercedes. Just as I was arriving at the dealership there was a late model black R129 leaving. It's always nice to see another one out and about.
The parts man was summoned from the basement where they are kept for the odd occasion a punter wants to buy parts.
The first strut top was a bit of a struggle but the second was a doddle. Easy when you know how.
When I changed the front lower arms earlier this year I was left with a grating noise when turning. Quite irritating.
There is a very small gap between the ball joint and the brake disc on my car which leaves very little room for the back plate / dust shield. I had been unable to get it just right.
So, while I had the wheels off I made a more concerted effort and with a bit of careful twisting managed to sort it.
The TPS was an easy changeover.
Well, what an improvement!
I can't put my finger on it but I think the combination of the new strut tops, sorting the grating when turning and the smoother throttle action have combined to make the car feel much better.
I have had several good runs in it with the temp gauge down at 6.5c with the roof down. It does get a bit cold when travelling quickly.
Still no sign of the BAS/ESP light and I haven't noticed the gauges dropping since the day it went to the Indy specialist.
Cured! (ok, that might be a bit optimistic)
I'm not looking for problems so I will leave that problem alone.
If it comes back I might look into aftermarket replacement ABS rings for the rear.
I had a good look at the the old and new strut tops. They have a production date stamp in the mould and looking at them I am fairly confident that my new ones which were made in 2017 came from the same mould as my original 1999 ones and that were used all the way from 1989. This is based on the positions of the stamps which are slightly irregular and match.
Picture taken near the nuclear sub base.
I ordered new tyres from Oponeo and was surprised to find that they were shipped via DPD all the way from Belgium.
The wheels are booked in for a refurb on Wednesday. They didn't really need done, but there are some minor corrosion and scuff marks and two of them lose pressure so I am hoping that refurb and new tyres will sort all that.
And, I like shiny wheels!
It's probably an age thing, but I do not get the current fashion for black alloys.
Having been surprised by the difference the new strut tops made, I have also decided to replace the rear shock absorbers. Apart from being a bit corroded they seem fine but as they are nearly 20 years old, have done 115k miles and all the other rear arms and bushes are new......
The new ones are in the post from Germany.
When I was coming to the end of the rear subframe overhaul I noticed that a bit of the underseal on the seam behind the offside rear wheel, under the battery was a bit crunchy when I pushed it.
At that point I did not want to investigate further as I had already packed the welder and paint stuff away.
An optimist might think that it will only be surface rust but past experience leads me to expect it to be worse than it looks.
While the wheels are off I will sort it out.
I have the economy model so it won't get to 144 and I am quite a sedate driver. I enjoy a bit of brisk driving but I am usually pretty close to the speed limit and as I am only driving in the UK, that means 70 ....ish.
Your warning lights issue does sound odd. I would love to know what causes that and what the solution would be.
Deefor62 - Thanks for the info on the N10. The cover on mine appears to be held on with 6 allen bolts and it looks like I would need to remove some of the scuttle plastics to get to it. The only problem at the moment is the heated rear window not working so I will leave it for now.
I have not decided if I will fit the hard top over winter. The car is garaged but will come out for some of the nicer days where the soft top will probably be down anyway.
So, to the update -
I ordered the TPS and the strut tops from Mercedes. Just as I was arriving at the dealership there was a late model black R129 leaving. It's always nice to see another one out and about.
The parts man was summoned from the basement where they are kept for the odd occasion a punter wants to buy parts.
The first strut top was a bit of a struggle but the second was a doddle. Easy when you know how.
When I changed the front lower arms earlier this year I was left with a grating noise when turning. Quite irritating.
There is a very small gap between the ball joint and the brake disc on my car which leaves very little room for the back plate / dust shield. I had been unable to get it just right.
So, while I had the wheels off I made a more concerted effort and with a bit of careful twisting managed to sort it.
The TPS was an easy changeover.
Well, what an improvement!
I can't put my finger on it but I think the combination of the new strut tops, sorting the grating when turning and the smoother throttle action have combined to make the car feel much better.
I have had several good runs in it with the temp gauge down at 6.5c with the roof down. It does get a bit cold when travelling quickly.
Still no sign of the BAS/ESP light and I haven't noticed the gauges dropping since the day it went to the Indy specialist.
Cured! (ok, that might be a bit optimistic)
I'm not looking for problems so I will leave that problem alone.
If it comes back I might look into aftermarket replacement ABS rings for the rear.
I had a good look at the the old and new strut tops. They have a production date stamp in the mould and looking at them I am fairly confident that my new ones which were made in 2017 came from the same mould as my original 1999 ones and that were used all the way from 1989. This is based on the positions of the stamps which are slightly irregular and match.
Picture taken near the nuclear sub base.
I ordered new tyres from Oponeo and was surprised to find that they were shipped via DPD all the way from Belgium.
The wheels are booked in for a refurb on Wednesday. They didn't really need done, but there are some minor corrosion and scuff marks and two of them lose pressure so I am hoping that refurb and new tyres will sort all that.
And, I like shiny wheels!
It's probably an age thing, but I do not get the current fashion for black alloys.
Having been surprised by the difference the new strut tops made, I have also decided to replace the rear shock absorbers. Apart from being a bit corroded they seem fine but as they are nearly 20 years old, have done 115k miles and all the other rear arms and bushes are new......
The new ones are in the post from Germany.
When I was coming to the end of the rear subframe overhaul I noticed that a bit of the underseal on the seam behind the offside rear wheel, under the battery was a bit crunchy when I pushed it.
At that point I did not want to investigate further as I had already packed the welder and paint stuff away.
An optimist might think that it will only be surface rust but past experience leads me to expect it to be worse than it looks.
While the wheels are off I will sort it out.
Edited by Yogioes on Monday 20th April 16:43
So, carrying on from my last update -
Time to get these fitted
A fairly straight forward job apart from the awkward access to the top nuts.
The spanner needs to go through the 3" hole that is just below the fuel filler pipe. It is doable but I could only get 1/12 of a turn at a time on the spanner so some patience was required.
I have occasionally considered buying ratchet ring spanners for just such situations but it seems a bit extravagant for the few times I actually would use them.
And job done
Next it was onto the crusty section below the battery, just behind the rear wheel.
This is what it looked like on initial inspection.
I scraped away the underseal and loose rust with a screwdriver and it seemed quite solid. For a moment I thought I might get away with some wire brushing and rust treatment.
However it did not look so good after a going over with the wire brush in the angle grinder.
So I removed the battery and the battery tray. Strangely, the two bolts and two nuts that hold in the tray were all loose. Odd.
The rust was very localised.
I cut out a rectangle with the grinder and shaped a plate to fit. Proceeded with my usual attempt at welding, got more scars on my arm from spatter while welding upside down.
Not pretty, but plenty strong enough.
I treated it with Hydrate 80 and painted it with Electrox zinc paint followed by a coating of Dynax UB on the underside.
This is it with the Electrox applied.
While it was jacked up I took the opportunity to get the wheels refurbished and the new tyres fitted.
The finish on the wheels is good but there are a few inclusions in the paint that are a bit annoying.
I fitted a new set of centre caps which were £9 off ebay. They are ok, but you get what you pay for.
I will give the originals and clean up and may refit them.
The sum total of all the changes made have resulted in the car feeling more composed on the road, particularly at speed.
Just coming up to my first year of ownership so it was time for the MoT which it passed. The guys there were quite complimentary of the condition which was nice to hear.
I have used the same local garage for Mot's for about 30 years although I think it has had about four owners over that time.
I've done about 3,200 miles in the year and my spreadsheet shows a little over £3,000 spent on it, nearly all of which is just parts with the only purchased labour being 2 hours at the local Indy and the wheel refurb.
Time to get these fitted
A fairly straight forward job apart from the awkward access to the top nuts.
The spanner needs to go through the 3" hole that is just below the fuel filler pipe. It is doable but I could only get 1/12 of a turn at a time on the spanner so some patience was required.
I have occasionally considered buying ratchet ring spanners for just such situations but it seems a bit extravagant for the few times I actually would use them.
And job done
Next it was onto the crusty section below the battery, just behind the rear wheel.
This is what it looked like on initial inspection.
I scraped away the underseal and loose rust with a screwdriver and it seemed quite solid. For a moment I thought I might get away with some wire brushing and rust treatment.
However it did not look so good after a going over with the wire brush in the angle grinder.
So I removed the battery and the battery tray. Strangely, the two bolts and two nuts that hold in the tray were all loose. Odd.
The rust was very localised.
I cut out a rectangle with the grinder and shaped a plate to fit. Proceeded with my usual attempt at welding, got more scars on my arm from spatter while welding upside down.
Not pretty, but plenty strong enough.
I treated it with Hydrate 80 and painted it with Electrox zinc paint followed by a coating of Dynax UB on the underside.
This is it with the Electrox applied.
While it was jacked up I took the opportunity to get the wheels refurbished and the new tyres fitted.
The finish on the wheels is good but there are a few inclusions in the paint that are a bit annoying.
I fitted a new set of centre caps which were £9 off ebay. They are ok, but you get what you pay for.
I will give the originals and clean up and may refit them.
The sum total of all the changes made have resulted in the car feeling more composed on the road, particularly at speed.
Just coming up to my first year of ownership so it was time for the MoT which it passed. The guys there were quite complimentary of the condition which was nice to hear.
I have used the same local garage for Mot's for about 30 years although I think it has had about four owners over that time.
I've done about 3,200 miles in the year and my spreadsheet shows a little over £3,000 spent on it, nearly all of which is just parts with the only purchased labour being 2 hours at the local Indy and the wheel refurb.
Hi J
500 miles isn’t much but time passes and there’s lots to do, especially with a young family.
I haven’t decided what I’ll do about the paintwork and bodywork yet. Maybe next year.
As it is, I’m not too precious about using it.
Hereward
When I opened the doors for the first time after reconnecting the battery the windows drop to half height. It’s just a case of winding them back to the top and holding the switch for a few seconds to let the car know where the top position is.
When I started it the bas/esp and abs lights were on. I drove to the bottom of the drive, turned the steering full left and right and drove off. The light immediately went off.
I don’t know if it was the steering or the speed that reset the lights but all good.
BMW bikes are like that every time it’s started. The brake warning lights flash until you get to about 3mph.
The only other issue was needing the radio code.
However, I would not have been able to see or feel that rust from below the battery as it was mostly under the forward facing edge of the wheel well panel and was under the seam sealer.
Probably easier to find from below, just behind the plastic wheel arch liner.
500 miles isn’t much but time passes and there’s lots to do, especially with a young family.
I haven’t decided what I’ll do about the paintwork and bodywork yet. Maybe next year.
As it is, I’m not too precious about using it.
Hereward
When I opened the doors for the first time after reconnecting the battery the windows drop to half height. It’s just a case of winding them back to the top and holding the switch for a few seconds to let the car know where the top position is.
When I started it the bas/esp and abs lights were on. I drove to the bottom of the drive, turned the steering full left and right and drove off. The light immediately went off.
I don’t know if it was the steering or the speed that reset the lights but all good.
BMW bikes are like that every time it’s started. The brake warning lights flash until you get to about 3mph.
The only other issue was needing the radio code.
However, I would not have been able to see or feel that rust from below the battery as it was mostly under the forward facing edge of the wheel well panel and was under the seam sealer.
Probably easier to find from below, just behind the plastic wheel arch liner.
Edited by Yogioes on Tuesday 19th November 17:49
It has been a while since I updated this.
Convertibles and winter don't mix well and I never did get round to fitting the hardtop.
It did get the occasional run every few weeks and I even had the roof down a couple of times.
With the current lockdown it is unlikely to see a lot of use over the next few months although I did use it today for my weekly run to deliver the messages (I know, that's a strange term for some) to my housebound mother in law.
It seemed sensible to leave the roof up.
I visited the local trimmers a few weeks ago to book it in for new soft top windows but that is now on hold.
I had previously attempted a repair to the stitching which was ok but proved that a full DIY replacement by me was unlikely to turn out well.
One of the other outstanding Jobs was the bonnet insulation pad.
I don't think it matters that much but the old one looked terrible so I decided it was time to have a go.
I had an old section of aluminium ladder that the extension builders left behind 20 years ago. I supported it at both ends and had a good bounce up and down on it to ensure it wouldn't bend too much or break!
It was a bit too long so I cut it down to 2.8m.
While finishing that off the postie arrived with the new pad, clips and adhesive. Just in Time.
I stripped the sheets off the kids beds to catch all the rubbish and started scraping off what was left of the old pad.
A horrible task.
Cleaned off as good as I was going to get it.
I lashed up my working platform and showed it to my pals Heath and Robinson. They said it looked okay to them.
I attached the pad with the pins at the top first. It was a bit awkward spraying the adhesive on both the bonnet and the pad and getting it all in position to tuck the edges in.
In hindsight, I can see that MB did not put as much adhesive on, especially around the edges. I think that would make it easier to tuck the edges into the frame.
Hey ho, it's done now.
I'm glad I wasn't getting paid to do it as the customer might have grounds for complaint!
Still it looks better despite the odd bit of adhesive overspray. It comes out the can a bit like spray string!
Convertibles and winter don't mix well and I never did get round to fitting the hardtop.
It did get the occasional run every few weeks and I even had the roof down a couple of times.
With the current lockdown it is unlikely to see a lot of use over the next few months although I did use it today for my weekly run to deliver the messages (I know, that's a strange term for some) to my housebound mother in law.
It seemed sensible to leave the roof up.
I visited the local trimmers a few weeks ago to book it in for new soft top windows but that is now on hold.
I had previously attempted a repair to the stitching which was ok but proved that a full DIY replacement by me was unlikely to turn out well.
One of the other outstanding Jobs was the bonnet insulation pad.
I don't think it matters that much but the old one looked terrible so I decided it was time to have a go.
I had an old section of aluminium ladder that the extension builders left behind 20 years ago. I supported it at both ends and had a good bounce up and down on it to ensure it wouldn't bend too much or break!
It was a bit too long so I cut it down to 2.8m.
While finishing that off the postie arrived with the new pad, clips and adhesive. Just in Time.
I stripped the sheets off the kids beds to catch all the rubbish and started scraping off what was left of the old pad.
A horrible task.
Cleaned off as good as I was going to get it.
I lashed up my working platform and showed it to my pals Heath and Robinson. They said it looked okay to them.
I attached the pad with the pins at the top first. It was a bit awkward spraying the adhesive on both the bonnet and the pad and getting it all in position to tuck the edges in.
In hindsight, I can see that MB did not put as much adhesive on, especially around the edges. I think that would make it easier to tuck the edges into the frame.
Hey ho, it's done now.
I'm glad I wasn't getting paid to do it as the customer might have grounds for complaint!
Still it looks better despite the odd bit of adhesive overspray. It comes out the can a bit like spray string!
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