Hold(en) my beer - Monaro, Ute and Commodore content
Discussion
Can't remember if I mentioned it in here, I suspect not, we picked up a Subaru BRZ for my partner a couple of months ago.
The E36 water pump went and although we still have the fine looking original pump, we're a bit sick of the car now to be honest, so took the 'opportunity' to actually just get something really nice to use daily and that she'll enjoy driving and that can at least make threatening gestures at a rice pudding skin.
I may fix the compact, have just been offering it to some friends as a good condition shell for £500 but it may just end up getting scrapped to be honest.
Anyway, the BRZ is amazing fun, I wish I'd bought one years ago!
With the Monaro back on wheels, the quickjacks were free, and as the brake pedal on the Scoob was a little squishy decided to replace the brake fluid at the weekend and it's much nicer now. One of the hydraulic fittings on the quickjack started to leak, so took this apart and sorted it with some PTFE tape.
I then had a significant dumbass moment of figuring that using a car battery for the quickjack was inconvenient when in the garage, so why not just wire it up to a mains plug. batteries famously being DC and mains supply famously not being.
Unsurprisingly, this lasted however long it took to trip the circuit breaker, during which time the relay managed to weld itself closed
I managed to take it apart, free it up and put it back together, so crisis averted and the Monaro is back up in the air where it belongs so I can finally bite the bullet and try and test this ABS sensor wiring.
I unplugged the big ABS connector (the one that I filled with the magic water proof gel goop about 300 posts ago
) and it seems to have been relatively unintrusive.
I checked the various bits of loom, the wheel well bits and then the actual wheel well to ABS connector bits. All seemed to report negligible resistance.
For reference, the meter leads just by themselves read ~0.3 / 0.4Ohm.
The wheel well sections measured 0.4Ohm both sides, the wheel well to ABS module loom on the driver's side (the short run) measured 0.5 Ohm, and over to the passenger side (the long run, and the one I'm most suspicious of) read 0.5 and 0.6 Ohm for each pin. This difference of 0.1 seems incredibly small but it is consistently there.
I do not know if that is of a significant scale to cause grumpy readings from the (hall effect) sensor.
I understand how the sensors work in terms of an induced current from the ring gear teeth producing a sinusoidal wave, but have no experience of how that sort of tiny difference in wire resistance would impact the signal that the ABS module would see.
What it wasn't was some sort of obvious vast difference that would have more confidently pointed towards a wiring SNAFU on my part. Realistically, I'm not sure I'm going to learn much more without a Tech2 plugged in and a live display of the data.
I gave everything a spray with contact cleaner and will have a good inspection around the pins / ABS connector etc. but beyond that it's borrow a Tech2 time, unless I can get the laptop based one working again!
The E36 water pump went and although we still have the fine looking original pump, we're a bit sick of the car now to be honest, so took the 'opportunity' to actually just get something really nice to use daily and that she'll enjoy driving and that can at least make threatening gestures at a rice pudding skin.
I may fix the compact, have just been offering it to some friends as a good condition shell for £500 but it may just end up getting scrapped to be honest.
Anyway, the BRZ is amazing fun, I wish I'd bought one years ago!
With the Monaro back on wheels, the quickjacks were free, and as the brake pedal on the Scoob was a little squishy decided to replace the brake fluid at the weekend and it's much nicer now. One of the hydraulic fittings on the quickjack started to leak, so took this apart and sorted it with some PTFE tape.
I then had a significant dumbass moment of figuring that using a car battery for the quickjack was inconvenient when in the garage, so why not just wire it up to a mains plug. batteries famously being DC and mains supply famously not being.
Unsurprisingly, this lasted however long it took to trip the circuit breaker, during which time the relay managed to weld itself closed
I managed to take it apart, free it up and put it back together, so crisis averted and the Monaro is back up in the air where it belongs so I can finally bite the bullet and try and test this ABS sensor wiring.I unplugged the big ABS connector (the one that I filled with the magic water proof gel goop about 300 posts ago
) and it seems to have been relatively unintrusive. I checked the various bits of loom, the wheel well bits and then the actual wheel well to ABS connector bits. All seemed to report negligible resistance.
For reference, the meter leads just by themselves read ~0.3 / 0.4Ohm.
The wheel well sections measured 0.4Ohm both sides, the wheel well to ABS module loom on the driver's side (the short run) measured 0.5 Ohm, and over to the passenger side (the long run, and the one I'm most suspicious of) read 0.5 and 0.6 Ohm for each pin. This difference of 0.1 seems incredibly small but it is consistently there.
I do not know if that is of a significant scale to cause grumpy readings from the (hall effect) sensor.
I understand how the sensors work in terms of an induced current from the ring gear teeth producing a sinusoidal wave, but have no experience of how that sort of tiny difference in wire resistance would impact the signal that the ABS module would see.
What it wasn't was some sort of obvious vast difference that would have more confidently pointed towards a wiring SNAFU on my part. Realistically, I'm not sure I'm going to learn much more without a Tech2 plugged in and a live display of the data.
I gave everything a spray with contact cleaner and will have a good inspection around the pins / ABS connector etc. but beyond that it's borrow a Tech2 time, unless I can get the laptop based one working again!
Tidied up this PCV hose so it runs along the top coolant pipe and is a bit neater / not floating in front of the cylinder head.
As the factory idle map only has so much scope for adjustment, it meant the extra 10% capacity and the fancy heads and the lumpy cam etc. was limiting the amount of idle air adjustment it could make, as it was already operating near the top of its window.
To this end I'd previously put in a 1.5mm hole into the throttle blade. This helps put the idle adjustments back towards the middle of their range, and means the throttle isn't as cracked open at idle, which gives a big increase in airflow with tiny pedal inputs.
This had improved the manners a bit, so I went up to a 2mm hole. My tuner advised to try 3mm from the off but I was apprehensive as it's hard to put the metal back on...
Cleaned up the various ABS connector contacts as best I could, plugged it all back in and tried it:
So far, no light. I have made sure not to say the f#x#d word out loud as I don't want to upset it, so for the moment I'm just saying that currently the light is not on.
It doesn't scrape on the drive, and it made it up and down the road about 50m also without the warning light coming on. It was also a lot happier returning to idle it seemed and not hunting, although that's based on about 30 seconds so we shall see.
I was too distracted to pay any attention to the ride, although the fact I didn't notice anything makes me mildly optimistic for the potential comfort level. Leaving for work this morning the BRZ is noticeably 'stiffer' / more 'this car is on coilovers' so we shall see.
It's quite possibly MOT time, I don't think I have any other excuses
As the factory idle map only has so much scope for adjustment, it meant the extra 10% capacity and the fancy heads and the lumpy cam etc. was limiting the amount of idle air adjustment it could make, as it was already operating near the top of its window.
To this end I'd previously put in a 1.5mm hole into the throttle blade. This helps put the idle adjustments back towards the middle of their range, and means the throttle isn't as cracked open at idle, which gives a big increase in airflow with tiny pedal inputs.
This had improved the manners a bit, so I went up to a 2mm hole. My tuner advised to try 3mm from the off but I was apprehensive as it's hard to put the metal back on...
Cleaned up the various ABS connector contacts as best I could, plugged it all back in and tried it:
So far, no light. I have made sure not to say the f#x#d word out loud as I don't want to upset it, so for the moment I'm just saying that currently the light is not on.
It doesn't scrape on the drive, and it made it up and down the road about 50m also without the warning light coming on. It was also a lot happier returning to idle it seemed and not hunting, although that's based on about 30 seconds so we shall see.
I was too distracted to pay any attention to the ride, although the fact I didn't notice anything makes me mildly optimistic for the potential comfort level. Leaving for work this morning the BRZ is noticeably 'stiffer' / more 'this car is on coilovers' so we shall see.
It's quite possibly MOT time, I don't think I have any other excuses
Edited by SturdyHSV on Monday 15th April 08:43
Shuffled things around on the drive yesterday and having sat untouched since the last post, the ABS light was immediately back on before even starting the engine.
My suspicions have temporarily turned to the battery. It's 7 years odl, it's had a hard life, the cars are fussy about battery voltages and it was completely dead a couple of months ago and required a couple of attempts to recharge (trickle charger refused the first time). It had been on trickle the whole time prior to the previous post when there was consistently no fault light for a while, and now having sat outside for a little while, the light is on.
It's a bit of a long shot as it still cranks the engine absolutely fine, but we shall see.
My suspicions have temporarily turned to the battery. It's 7 years odl, it's had a hard life, the cars are fussy about battery voltages and it was completely dead a couple of months ago and required a couple of attempts to recharge (trickle charger refused the first time). It had been on trickle the whole time prior to the previous post when there was consistently no fault light for a while, and now having sat outside for a little while, the light is on.
It's a bit of a long shot as it still cranks the engine absolutely fine, but we shall see.
So I replaced the battery on Saturday, ABS light went back out again, yay.
Noticed the bit of surface corrosion bottom left there, so wire wheeled that back
Kurust was applied, but in the end I wired that back off and just gave it a couple of coats of etch primer
Will throw some paint over that this evening assuming it isn't raining, just seemed to be a random breakout so easily sorted at least. Quite possibly something was spilt in the boot once.
As part of this little process, I turned the ignition back on again just to test the ABS light stayed out, annnd it came back on
The ground above perhaps isn't as tidy as it could be, and the crimped end on the cable did come off and is now held on by the wrapping tape, so I have ordered a replacement for that (something I'd been meaning to do anyway) but at this point I need to get a Tech2 on it and find out what's going on because just continually firing the parts cannon at it is a bit silly
Noticed the bit of surface corrosion bottom left there, so wire wheeled that back
Kurust was applied, but in the end I wired that back off and just gave it a couple of coats of etch primer
Will throw some paint over that this evening assuming it isn't raining, just seemed to be a random breakout so easily sorted at least. Quite possibly something was spilt in the boot once.
As part of this little process, I turned the ignition back on again just to test the ABS light stayed out, annnd it came back on
The ground above perhaps isn't as tidy as it could be, and the crimped end on the cable did come off and is now held on by the wrapping tape, so I have ordered a replacement for that (something I'd been meaning to do anyway) but at this point I need to get a Tech2 on it and find out what's going on because just continually firing the parts cannon at it is a bit silly
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