Shed money Clio 172
Discussion
zedx19 said:
You may be aware already, but on the rust front if your rear arch - sill looked like that, you might want to check behind the rear door cards. Shine a torch down there and check for rust/holes, they rot from the inside out. Might be worth some rust prevention down there to try and slow the spread. I had a phase 1 172 which looked fine on the outside, but had holes from the inside!
I know. It's remiss of me not to check. When i do some sound insulation I'll have a peek. Cambs_Stuart said:
Just had (another) fantastic track day in the clio, back at snetterton. It was faultless yet again. As a friend put it, you've turned up in the cheapest car, had the most time on track, the most fun and the fewest issues.
When i arrived at Snetterton the pit area was full of very expensive machinery plus some liveried race cars and my heart sank. I assumed I'd spend the entire day watching my mirrors and moving out of the way. But i found other lower powered cars to have fun with espcially as the afternoon went on and more red flags came out (why is there always so many red flags after lunch? What do people eat?).
A 1930s SS100 race car dumped a load of fluid just before the Agostini corner which made the entrance to that a bit tricky and a few cars span as a result.
The only issue is the new exhaust. It sounds great bumbling around town and awesome at full throttle. But at a steady 70mph it's a horrible, droning, endurance test. I'm loathe to put the old exhaust back on, so i think the next thing to do will be some sound deadening.
I was the guy in the light blue Exige. (https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=&t=1927523)When i arrived at Snetterton the pit area was full of very expensive machinery plus some liveried race cars and my heart sank. I assumed I'd spend the entire day watching my mirrors and moving out of the way. But i found other lower powered cars to have fun with espcially as the afternoon went on and more red flags came out (why is there always so many red flags after lunch? What do people eat?).
A 1930s SS100 race car dumped a load of fluid just before the Agostini corner which made the entrance to that a bit tricky and a few cars span as a result.
The only issue is the new exhaust. It sounds great bumbling around town and awesome at full throttle. But at a steady 70mph it's a horrible, droning, endurance test. I'm loathe to put the old exhaust back on, so i think the next thing to do will be some sound deadening.
Yep, the afternoon was bizarre with the amount of red flags. Mainly mechanical problems causing them from what I could tell. The guy in the same garage as me had his entire exhaust system fall off onto the track!
I saw that exhaust and wondered where it had come from!
The SS racer caused a long delay, the fire truck had to go out, and at one point here was mud and grass all over the infield part of the track.
The lotus looked superb as it went round me and disappeared into the distance.
Good to meet you!
The SS racer caused a long delay, the fire truck had to go out, and at one point here was mud and grass all over the infield part of the track.
The lotus looked superb as it went round me and disappeared into the distance.
Good to meet you!
Court_S said:
Bummer to hear that the exhaust unbearable on a motorway cruise, especially after fitting it on the drive in the wet!
That's the main reason I'm loath to put the old one back on! I had been meaning to add some sound insulation to dampen down the noise and rattles, this has just increased the priority. 
OP - You make a little appearance right at the start of my video. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgDM54-E2rg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgDM54-E2rg
Paul_M3 said:
OP - You make a little appearance right at the start of my video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgDM54-E2rg
Thanks for that! Your lotus sounds brilliant!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgDM54-E2rg
So, the first stage of soundproofing. An 8 pack of silent coat 2mm was in the Amazon warehouse deal section and I like a bargain.
This stuff is incredibly easy to fit. Clean the area with solvent, cut to size with ordinary scissors and use a roller to make sure it's properly stuck down.
Of the 8 sheets, three went in the back under the seat and three in the boot, mainly around the wheel well. I've saved two sheets for the rear side panels, hopefully I'll get those done next lunchtime.
I even saved a few off cuts for the most annoying rattle in the car, which is the steering wheel cowl.
As a general word of advice, it appears the metal edges in the interior are much sharper than those in the engine bay!
8 sheets is not a huge amount, I think I could easily use double that. These 6 sheets I fitted took less than 45 minutes to fit.
This stuff is incredibly easy to fit. Clean the area with solvent, cut to size with ordinary scissors and use a roller to make sure it's properly stuck down.
Of the 8 sheets, three went in the back under the seat and three in the boot, mainly around the wheel well. I've saved two sheets for the rear side panels, hopefully I'll get those done next lunchtime.
I even saved a few off cuts for the most annoying rattle in the car, which is the steering wheel cowl.
As a general word of advice, it appears the metal edges in the interior are much sharper than those in the engine bay!
8 sheets is not a huge amount, I think I could easily use double that. These 6 sheets I fitted took less than 45 minutes to fit.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Wednesday 9th March 13:59
Cambs_Stuart said:
zedx19 said:
You may be aware already, but on the rust front if your rear arch - sill looked like that, you might want to check behind the rear door cards. Shine a torch down there and check for rust/holes, they rot from the inside out. Might be worth some rust prevention down there to try and slow the spread. I had a phase 1 172 which looked fine on the outside, but had holes from the inside!
I know. It's remiss of me not to check. When i do some sound insulation I'll have a peek. 
I think another winter or two and that would have become very serious indeed.
So it's been brushed back and the first coat of Kurst is on:
I may have used a bit much...
The passenger's side looked pretty good by comparison:
But it's been treated just the same.
And I've put my last two sheets of sound deadening behind the cards. Looking forward to a drive to see how it sounds.
Exact spot they always go, it'll still be crusting away behind the preventative measures you've added, should slow it though. Just keep an eye on it, I spent 650 quid ish getting one welded up (worse than that) on both sides, including some inner and outer sill work, 18 months or so back.
So the rust had three liberal coats of Kurst, at 3 hour intervals, then left for 24 hours. Followed 5 coats of direct to rust paint, at hourly intervals, left overnight and I've just soaked the area in bilt hamber. Hopefully this will keep the rust at bay for a little while longer.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Friday 11th March 13:38
Cambs_Stuart said:
So the rust had three liberal coats of Kurst, at 3 hour intervals, then left for 24 hours. Followed 5 coats of direct to rust paint, at hourly intervals, left overnight and I've just soaked the area in bilt hamber. Hopefully this will keep the rust at bay for a little while longer.
Can't go wrong with BH. Need to have look at mine also to see what condition it's in. Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Friday 11th March 13:38
Was it easy to remove the rear trim and do the rear seats need to come out?
Koolkat969 said:
Can't go wrong with BH. Need to have look at mine also to see what condition it's in.
Was it easy to remove the rear trim and do the rear seats need to come out?
I took the rear seat base out, to be honest it would have been easier with the seat backs out of the way, but i could work round it. You need to undo the rear seatbelt anchor with a 17mm socket and the front seatbelt lower mount with a torx head. The front seatbelt bar doesn't come out all the way, but with it's bolt undone you can lay the card flat on its side. Once they're undone, take the speaker out and work your way round, pulling carefully at the 20 year old brittle platstic clips. Was it easy to remove the rear trim and do the rear seats need to come out?
There isn't much space between the inner and outer skins so access is a pain.
The metal edges on mine are really sharp so my hands look like I've been fighting cats.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Friday 11th March 14:45
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