Shed money Clio 172
Discussion
Kaveney said:
Looks like a good day and the Clio held up well .
I have done Brands Hatch Indy a few time but all ways find it very busy .
Still an ace track tho .
What is the next track outing going to be for the Clio ?
Any day you can drive to the track, hammer round and then drive home again is a good day in my book. I have done Brands Hatch Indy a few time but all ways find it very busy .
Still an ace track tho .
What is the next track outing going to be for the Clio ?
I've not got anything booked, but I'd love to have a go at Donnington as I've not been there before, and cadwell as I've not been there for over a year.
I have to say, I've been impressed with Opentrack. Having used a few TDOs, they've always been competitive on price, well marshalled days, free tuition, make really easy to cancel and re-book (if your car is dripping brake fluid). Plus they provide a barbeque in the evening, snacks during the day and the photographer they use is really good.
The rear of the clio was still clunking over bumps, and given the state of the roads, that is a lot of noise.
I can't feel any play in the bearings, struts or beam but the exhaust is very close to the rear subframe, so that's the prime suspect.
There's not much more adjustment at the rear, unless i get a blowtorch and start modifying the hanger. However, i spotted that the Renault center bush is a bit feeble, although it's in ok condition.
BTT motorsport offer a poly bush for the center, which is basically a polyurethane brick with a few holes drilled in it. However, crude as it may be, it holds the exhaust higher...
While i had the car up on stands i gave it a quick look over. The PFC pads still have a trackday or two left. However, looking for replacements suggests that PFC no longer make them for the clio 1*2, so I'll have to try something different soon. Hopefully I'll find something a less dusty but still as effective. PBS? Mintex M1155?
And my favourite tool is having issues. The battery in my cordless impact no longer holds charge overnight. Which is annoying.
I can't feel any play in the bearings, struts or beam but the exhaust is very close to the rear subframe, so that's the prime suspect.
There's not much more adjustment at the rear, unless i get a blowtorch and start modifying the hanger. However, i spotted that the Renault center bush is a bit feeble, although it's in ok condition.
BTT motorsport offer a poly bush for the center, which is basically a polyurethane brick with a few holes drilled in it. However, crude as it may be, it holds the exhaust higher...
While i had the car up on stands i gave it a quick look over. The PFC pads still have a trackday or two left. However, looking for replacements suggests that PFC no longer make them for the clio 1*2, so I'll have to try something different soon. Hopefully I'll find something a less dusty but still as effective. PBS? Mintex M1155?
And my favourite tool is having issues. The battery in my cordless impact no longer holds charge overnight. Which is annoying.
A little update on the clio.
It had felt a but like it had lost a bit of zip from the engine. I'd been using a washable Ramair panel filter, and washing it every year. But I suspected this could be the reason, so for now I've replaced it with a good quality OEM.
Just to mention, the filters for my legacy are £7 and need 2 clips undoing to fit to fit. This was £23 and needed 7 torx head screws to open the Airbox.
For my last order on opie I needed a small thing to get my order into "free delivery" category, so I've replaced the air filter. I enjoyed picking all the leaves and spider webs out of here far too much.
But the main reason for getting the tools out was to have Another Look at the rear. There is still a clunk, from the drivers side. I've checked that I put the fuel tank back in the right place after changing the beam bushes, and made sure there is no play in the new bushes, taken the spare wheel and tool kit out, made sure all the seats are clicked into place, tightened everything, used a pry bar on all the moving parts, checked the caliper, wheel bearing, made sure the exhaust isn't hitting anything and the strut bushes/mounts. As a last resort I've swapped the B14 shocks on the rear for my old cup versions. It's made absolutely no difference.
I'm confident nothing is about to fall off, but I'm grinding my teeth trying to get to the bottom of this.
It had felt a but like it had lost a bit of zip from the engine. I'd been using a washable Ramair panel filter, and washing it every year. But I suspected this could be the reason, so for now I've replaced it with a good quality OEM.
Just to mention, the filters for my legacy are £7 and need 2 clips undoing to fit to fit. This was £23 and needed 7 torx head screws to open the Airbox.
For my last order on opie I needed a small thing to get my order into "free delivery" category, so I've replaced the air filter. I enjoyed picking all the leaves and spider webs out of here far too much.
But the main reason for getting the tools out was to have Another Look at the rear. There is still a clunk, from the drivers side. I've checked that I put the fuel tank back in the right place after changing the beam bushes, and made sure there is no play in the new bushes, taken the spare wheel and tool kit out, made sure all the seats are clicked into place, tightened everything, used a pry bar on all the moving parts, checked the caliper, wheel bearing, made sure the exhaust isn't hitting anything and the strut bushes/mounts. As a last resort I've swapped the B14 shocks on the rear for my old cup versions. It's made absolutely no difference.
I'm confident nothing is about to fall off, but I'm grinding my teeth trying to get to the bottom of this.
Kaveney said:
Does the knocking happen at speed or when you are slowing on the brakes .
I had a rear end knock on my old 172 when braking and it was the rear caliper that was partially seized so it wasn't applying an even braking pressure on the rear disk causing it to knock .
It's mainly at low speed on rough roads (most of them in cambridge). I'll try to work out if it gets better or worse under braking I had a rear end knock on my old 172 when braking and it was the rear caliper that was partially seized so it wasn't applying an even braking pressure on the rear disk causing it to knock .
darkyoung1000 said:
It’s a strange question, but does your fuel gauge work? There is a random knocking in the AX caused by something in the fuel tank (presumably the sender to the gauge) floating around on the fuel and banging on the plastic. It was driving me mad, and took weeks to work out what it was.
I identified it by jumping up and down on the sills with the door open eventually!
Good luck hunting it down.
Well, I haven't run out of fuel, but the noise is from that general area. I can't replicate it when the car is on the driveway, so I'll give the enhanced sill test a go...I identified it by jumping up and down on the sills with the door open eventually!
Good luck hunting it down.
Cambs_Stuart said:
Kaveney said:
Does the knocking happen at speed or when you are slowing on the brakes .
I had a rear end knock on my old 172 when braking and it was the rear caliper that was partially seized so it wasn't applying an even braking pressure on the rear disk causing it to knock .
It's mainly at low speed on rough roads (most of them in cambridge). I'll try to work out if it gets better or worse under braking I had a rear end knock on my old 172 when braking and it was the rear caliper that was partially seized so it wasn't applying an even braking pressure on the rear disk causing it to knock .
Jumping up and down on the sill didn't replicate the noise, which makes me think it's not related to mechanical bits banging around.
Cambs_Stuart said:
Cambs_Stuart said:
Kaveney said:
Does the knocking happen at speed or when you are slowing on the brakes .
I had a rear end knock on my old 172 when braking and it was the rear caliper that was partially seized so it wasn't applying an even braking pressure on the rear disk causing it to knock .
It's mainly at low speed on rough roads (most of them in cambridge). I'll try to work out if it gets better or worse under braking I had a rear end knock on my old 172 when braking and it was the rear caliper that was partially seized so it wasn't applying an even braking pressure on the rear disk causing it to knock .
Jumping up and down on the sill didn't replicate the noise, which makes me think it's not related to mechanical bits banging around.
An easy fix after a few months of head scratching and at least one unnecessary suspension change.
The current to do list is:
1. Reduce the amount of fluid that is escaping. I think I've got a minor PS fluid leak, coolant leak and several engine oil leaks.
2. Need to change the top mounts.
3. Some winter-proofing and rust prevention. Although with the oils leaks, the Clio appears to be trying to do this by itself.
I've got my eye on a track day at Cadwell on the 20th October so hoping to get some of these issues fixed in time for that.
The current to do list is:
1. Reduce the amount of fluid that is escaping. I think I've got a minor PS fluid leak, coolant leak and several engine oil leaks.
2. Need to change the top mounts.
3. Some winter-proofing and rust prevention. Although with the oils leaks, the Clio appears to be trying to do this by itself.
I've got my eye on a track day at Cadwell on the 20th October so hoping to get some of these issues fixed in time for that.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Friday 22 September 12:03
I've has a go at one of the fluid leaks
The thermostat was looking crusty and would explain why i was losing a few hundred ml of coolant a month.
Fortunately the thermostat is cheap and easy to access. Wip the airbox out, then three bolts. The thermostat looked like the original 20 year old, 110,000 mile unit from the factory so was pretty crusty. So I gave everything a good scrub with a wire brush to help reduce the risk of leaks.
I had the tools out so also took off the inlet and had a look at the plugs. They're looking a bit old, but the gaps are all in tolerance.
Possibly one to do when the cam cover comes off to re-seal it.
I've given all the oil leaks a clean in the hope of tracing them. At the moment it looks like the rear of the cam cover, crank seal and the high pressure power steering pipe. None of which I fancy tackling at home..
The thermostat was looking crusty and would explain why i was losing a few hundred ml of coolant a month.
Fortunately the thermostat is cheap and easy to access. Wip the airbox out, then three bolts. The thermostat looked like the original 20 year old, 110,000 mile unit from the factory so was pretty crusty. So I gave everything a good scrub with a wire brush to help reduce the risk of leaks.
I had the tools out so also took off the inlet and had a look at the plugs. They're looking a bit old, but the gaps are all in tolerance.
Possibly one to do when the cam cover comes off to re-seal it.
I've given all the oil leaks a clean in the hope of tracing them. At the moment it looks like the rear of the cam cover, crank seal and the high pressure power steering pipe. None of which I fancy tackling at home..
Last MOT the old OZ wheels drew the attention of the tester:
They were looking tatty. I think they had been rattle canned when I bought the car, now they had a lot of brake dust baked on, the paint was patchy, I'd kurbed a couple and the tyres were perishing.
So they've been sold. They're are a lot of cars out there that take a 4 x100 15 inch wheel so they didn't take long to sell, and I've bought some beautiful OZ wheels, with almost new PS3s from a really nice chap in canvey island!
So these will need a good coating, then they'll be my wet weather wheels. Any recommendations for wheel protection?
They were looking tatty. I think they had been rattle canned when I bought the car, now they had a lot of brake dust baked on, the paint was patchy, I'd kurbed a couple and the tyres were perishing.
So they've been sold. They're are a lot of cars out there that take a 4 x100 15 inch wheel so they didn't take long to sell, and I've bought some beautiful OZ wheels, with almost new PS3s from a really nice chap in canvey island!
So these will need a good coating, then they'll be my wet weather wheels. Any recommendations for wheel protection?
I'd hoped to do a few jobs on the clio today, but everyone in my family is ill so I've had to be content with getting the wheels ready in between fetching lemsip and hot water bottles.
After spending too long looking at different types of sealant I went with the first one mentioned, the chemical guys:
As usual with this kind of thing, prep is important so even though the wheels where sparkling I gave them a good clean with a panel wipe first. The green goop went on like curdling butter.
Bizarrely one wheel had the mounting face power coated, so I got the sander out and gently took it back to aluminum. Hopefully it's still flat.
I'm not going to make cadwell on the 20th, but I'm hoping to be out on track a couple of times his winter...
After spending too long looking at different types of sealant I went with the first one mentioned, the chemical guys:
As usual with this kind of thing, prep is important so even though the wheels where sparkling I gave them a good clean with a panel wipe first. The green goop went on like curdling butter.
Bizarrely one wheel had the mounting face power coated, so I got the sander out and gently took it back to aluminum. Hopefully it's still flat.
I'm not going to make cadwell on the 20th, but I'm hoping to be out on track a couple of times his winter...
I haven't put the new wheels on, or sorted anything on the to do list, but when the rain stopped I popped out and replaced the o rings on the inlet sensors.
When changed the thermostat a few weeks ago they were only just staying in place:
Checking the oil level when cold, it's about 0.5L away from max, which means that (given I changed the oil in June) even though it's a bit messy, I'm not actually losing that much oil.
When changed the thermostat a few weeks ago they were only just staying in place:
Checking the oil level when cold, it's about 0.5L away from max, which means that (given I changed the oil in June) even though it's a bit messy, I'm not actually losing that much oil.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Monday 23 October 16:28
As it's half term I had a day off, arranged a playdate for my son and stuck the new wheels on. They're really nice.
Not sure i want to drive it in the wet now.
Anyway, 73mm spigot rings, cleaned the hubs, a smear of copper grease, checked all the pressures and they're on.
The only thing is that as they are multi fit wheels, one of the unsused holes now lines up with the disc retaining screw. It's covered in copper for now, but I'd like some sort of cover for it...
Not sure i want to drive it in the wet now.
Anyway, 73mm spigot rings, cleaned the hubs, a smear of copper grease, checked all the pressures and they're on.
The only thing is that as they are multi fit wheels, one of the unsused holes now lines up with the disc retaining screw. It's covered in copper for now, but I'd like some sort of cover for it...
I've done a track day!
The preparation was:
Fresh old and filter:
I'd recommend these boxes of oil, easy to pour with no "glugging".
I had my first go at using an ezibleed kit. It was indeed, very easy.
I only bled the fronts as the rears were thoroughly flushed when I had all the issues with the brake calliper. The first fluid that came out looked a lot like tizer, so I carried on until I was confident all the old was replaced with fresh ATE. TYP200. I've put 1.5 L through which should be more than enough.
Then gave it a wash and put the ugly old blue wheels on. The forecast was good, which meant I could spare the gold wheels from the clouds of brake dust the PFC pads usually generate...
The weather at Bedford yesterday was perfect, dry, cold and sunny. The dew on the track evaporated quickly and the day was on:
It was an absolutely fantastic day. Lots of really interesting cars, friendly people in the pits, driving standards were really good, the marshals were spot on and the Clio did 220 miles on track without a hiccup. Just great fun.
I think there was only one red flag and two or three short lived yellows all day.
I've had faster, better built, more glamourous cars, but I can't think of one that I've owned that I've had this much enjoyment out of:
Long live the Clio.
The preparation was:
Fresh old and filter:
I'd recommend these boxes of oil, easy to pour with no "glugging".
I had my first go at using an ezibleed kit. It was indeed, very easy.
I only bled the fronts as the rears were thoroughly flushed when I had all the issues with the brake calliper. The first fluid that came out looked a lot like tizer, so I carried on until I was confident all the old was replaced with fresh ATE. TYP200. I've put 1.5 L through which should be more than enough.
Then gave it a wash and put the ugly old blue wheels on. The forecast was good, which meant I could spare the gold wheels from the clouds of brake dust the PFC pads usually generate...
The weather at Bedford yesterday was perfect, dry, cold and sunny. The dew on the track evaporated quickly and the day was on:
It was an absolutely fantastic day. Lots of really interesting cars, friendly people in the pits, driving standards were really good, the marshals were spot on and the Clio did 220 miles on track without a hiccup. Just great fun.
I think there was only one red flag and two or three short lived yellows all day.
I've had faster, better built, more glamourous cars, but I can't think of one that I've owned that I've had this much enjoyment out of:
Long live the Clio.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Tuesday 7th November 13:55
I did try the sill jumping, but that confused me even more as it didn't make any noise...
Anyway after the fun on Monday I've put the gold wheels back on the car and the AD08s in the shed.
These tyres never seem to get a particularly good press. There are probably grippier track days tyres out there, but I think I've done between 1500 to 2000 miles on track with these, plus a few road miles and they've still got plenty of life left.
Anyway after the fun on Monday I've put the gold wheels back on the car and the AD08s in the shed.
These tyres never seem to get a particularly good press. There are probably grippier track days tyres out there, but I think I've done between 1500 to 2000 miles on track with these, plus a few road miles and they've still got plenty of life left.
I'd had hoped to get another track day booked in Decembe, but finding one at a track nearby, on a day when I didn't have something big on at work, and when I wasn't needed for childcare proved impossible.
So I've bitten the bullet and got the sills repaired.
Ever since I poked a hole in the sill I'd been meaning to sort this out, but when a chap at worked mentioned a good mobile welder I got him booked.
Rotten bits chopped out.
New bits added in
And it looks smarter already.
So the front jack point has been rebuilt with 3mm, the hole at the rear cut out and replaced, all drainage holes re-made and cleared as well. Plus cavity wax hosed over everything.
The rear drainage holes were crushed and blocked, which is why this side was so much worse than the passengers.
So I've bitten the bullet and got the sills repaired.
Ever since I poked a hole in the sill I'd been meaning to sort this out, but when a chap at worked mentioned a good mobile welder I got him booked.
Rotten bits chopped out.
New bits added in
And it looks smarter already.
So the front jack point has been rebuilt with 3mm, the hole at the rear cut out and replaced, all drainage holes re-made and cleared as well. Plus cavity wax hosed over everything.
The rear drainage holes were crushed and blocked, which is why this side was so much worse than the passengers.
DickP said:
If you can take the rear passenger side panels out as this gives access to the inside of the wings, wheel arch and you can also see inside the sill from there. You can then spray wax or other corrosion inhibitor into the cavity and lower wheel arch areas that can sometimes rust from the inside.
That's basically how I found out I needed the repair. I took the rear card off and found this. 
And then made the mistake of giving it a poke:
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