Shed money Clio 172
Discussion
An easy fix after a few months of head scratching and at least one unnecessary suspension change.
The current to do list is:
1. Reduce the amount of fluid that is escaping. I think I've got a minor PS fluid leak, coolant leak and several engine oil leaks.
2. Need to change the top mounts.
3. Some winter-proofing and rust prevention. Although with the oils leaks, the Clio appears to be trying to do this by itself.
I've got my eye on a track day at Cadwell on the 20th October so hoping to get some of these issues fixed in time for that.
The current to do list is:
1. Reduce the amount of fluid that is escaping. I think I've got a minor PS fluid leak, coolant leak and several engine oil leaks.
2. Need to change the top mounts.
3. Some winter-proofing and rust prevention. Although with the oils leaks, the Clio appears to be trying to do this by itself.
I've got my eye on a track day at Cadwell on the 20th October so hoping to get some of these issues fixed in time for that.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Friday 22 September 12:03
I've has a go at one of the fluid leaks
The thermostat was looking crusty and would explain why i was losing a few hundred ml of coolant a month.
Fortunately the thermostat is cheap and easy to access. Wip the airbox out, then three bolts. The thermostat looked like the original 20 year old, 110,000 mile unit from the factory so was pretty crusty. So I gave everything a good scrub with a wire brush to help reduce the risk of leaks.
I had the tools out so also took off the inlet and had a look at the plugs. They're looking a bit old, but the gaps are all in tolerance.
Possibly one to do when the cam cover comes off to re-seal it.
I've given all the oil leaks a clean in the hope of tracing them. At the moment it looks like the rear of the cam cover, crank seal and the high pressure power steering pipe. None of which I fancy tackling at home..
The thermostat was looking crusty and would explain why i was losing a few hundred ml of coolant a month.
Fortunately the thermostat is cheap and easy to access. Wip the airbox out, then three bolts. The thermostat looked like the original 20 year old, 110,000 mile unit from the factory so was pretty crusty. So I gave everything a good scrub with a wire brush to help reduce the risk of leaks.
I had the tools out so also took off the inlet and had a look at the plugs. They're looking a bit old, but the gaps are all in tolerance.
Possibly one to do when the cam cover comes off to re-seal it.
I've given all the oil leaks a clean in the hope of tracing them. At the moment it looks like the rear of the cam cover, crank seal and the high pressure power steering pipe. None of which I fancy tackling at home..
Last MOT the old OZ wheels drew the attention of the tester:
They were looking tatty. I think they had been rattle canned when I bought the car, now they had a lot of brake dust baked on, the paint was patchy, I'd kurbed a couple and the tyres were perishing.
So they've been sold. They're are a lot of cars out there that take a 4 x100 15 inch wheel so they didn't take long to sell, and I've bought some beautiful OZ wheels, with almost new PS3s from a really nice chap in canvey island!
So these will need a good coating, then they'll be my wet weather wheels. Any recommendations for wheel protection?
They were looking tatty. I think they had been rattle canned when I bought the car, now they had a lot of brake dust baked on, the paint was patchy, I'd kurbed a couple and the tyres were perishing.
So they've been sold. They're are a lot of cars out there that take a 4 x100 15 inch wheel so they didn't take long to sell, and I've bought some beautiful OZ wheels, with almost new PS3s from a really nice chap in canvey island!
So these will need a good coating, then they'll be my wet weather wheels. Any recommendations for wheel protection?
Love the Gold wheels and will look lovely on the car .
I have used this stuff before and was very impressed .
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&...
I have used this stuff before and was very impressed .
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&...
I'd hoped to do a few jobs on the clio today, but everyone in my family is ill so I've had to be content with getting the wheels ready in between fetching lemsip and hot water bottles.
After spending too long looking at different types of sealant I went with the first one mentioned, the chemical guys:
As usual with this kind of thing, prep is important so even though the wheels where sparkling I gave them a good clean with a panel wipe first. The green goop went on like curdling butter.
Bizarrely one wheel had the mounting face power coated, so I got the sander out and gently took it back to aluminum. Hopefully it's still flat.
I'm not going to make cadwell on the 20th, but I'm hoping to be out on track a couple of times his winter...
After spending too long looking at different types of sealant I went with the first one mentioned, the chemical guys:
As usual with this kind of thing, prep is important so even though the wheels where sparkling I gave them a good clean with a panel wipe first. The green goop went on like curdling butter.
Bizarrely one wheel had the mounting face power coated, so I got the sander out and gently took it back to aluminum. Hopefully it's still flat.
I'm not going to make cadwell on the 20th, but I'm hoping to be out on track a couple of times his winter...
I haven't put the new wheels on, or sorted anything on the to do list, but when the rain stopped I popped out and replaced the o rings on the inlet sensors.
When changed the thermostat a few weeks ago they were only just staying in place:
Checking the oil level when cold, it's about 0.5L away from max, which means that (given I changed the oil in June) even though it's a bit messy, I'm not actually losing that much oil.
When changed the thermostat a few weeks ago they were only just staying in place:
Checking the oil level when cold, it's about 0.5L away from max, which means that (given I changed the oil in June) even though it's a bit messy, I'm not actually losing that much oil.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Monday 23 October 16:28
As it's half term I had a day off, arranged a playdate for my son and stuck the new wheels on. They're really nice.
Not sure i want to drive it in the wet now.
Anyway, 73mm spigot rings, cleaned the hubs, a smear of copper grease, checked all the pressures and they're on.
The only thing is that as they are multi fit wheels, one of the unsused holes now lines up with the disc retaining screw. It's covered in copper for now, but I'd like some sort of cover for it...
Not sure i want to drive it in the wet now.
Anyway, 73mm spigot rings, cleaned the hubs, a smear of copper grease, checked all the pressures and they're on.
The only thing is that as they are multi fit wheels, one of the unsused holes now lines up with the disc retaining screw. It's covered in copper for now, but I'd like some sort of cover for it...
Cambs_Stuart said:
The only thing is that as they are multi fit wheels, one of the unsused holes now lines up with the disc retaining screw. It's covered in copper for now, but I'd like some sort of cover for it...
Having recently had to drill out a couple of disk retaining bolts, I've decided that checking they can be undone is now a regular service item. Your wheels sound ideal for that, but I can't imagine you'll have issues with disk retaining bolts that have been untouched for eleven years.
I've done a track day!
The preparation was:
Fresh old and filter:
I'd recommend these boxes of oil, easy to pour with no "glugging".
I had my first go at using an ezibleed kit. It was indeed, very easy.
I only bled the fronts as the rears were thoroughly flushed when I had all the issues with the brake calliper. The first fluid that came out looked a lot like tizer, so I carried on until I was confident all the old was replaced with fresh ATE. TYP200. I've put 1.5 L through which should be more than enough.
Then gave it a wash and put the ugly old blue wheels on. The forecast was good, which meant I could spare the gold wheels from the clouds of brake dust the PFC pads usually generate...
The weather at Bedford yesterday was perfect, dry, cold and sunny. The dew on the track evaporated quickly and the day was on:
It was an absolutely fantastic day. Lots of really interesting cars, friendly people in the pits, driving standards were really good, the marshals were spot on and the Clio did 220 miles on track without a hiccup. Just great fun.
I think there was only one red flag and two or three short lived yellows all day.
I've had faster, better built, more glamourous cars, but I can't think of one that I've owned that I've had this much enjoyment out of:
Long live the Clio.
The preparation was:
Fresh old and filter:
I'd recommend these boxes of oil, easy to pour with no "glugging".
I had my first go at using an ezibleed kit. It was indeed, very easy.
I only bled the fronts as the rears were thoroughly flushed when I had all the issues with the brake calliper. The first fluid that came out looked a lot like tizer, so I carried on until I was confident all the old was replaced with fresh ATE. TYP200. I've put 1.5 L through which should be more than enough.
Then gave it a wash and put the ugly old blue wheels on. The forecast was good, which meant I could spare the gold wheels from the clouds of brake dust the PFC pads usually generate...
The weather at Bedford yesterday was perfect, dry, cold and sunny. The dew on the track evaporated quickly and the day was on:
It was an absolutely fantastic day. Lots of really interesting cars, friendly people in the pits, driving standards were really good, the marshals were spot on and the Clio did 220 miles on track without a hiccup. Just great fun.
I think there was only one red flag and two or three short lived yellows all day.
I've had faster, better built, more glamourous cars, but I can't think of one that I've owned that I've had this much enjoyment out of:
Long live the Clio.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Tuesday 7th November 13:55
I did try the sill jumping, but that confused me even more as it didn't make any noise...
Anyway after the fun on Monday I've put the gold wheels back on the car and the AD08s in the shed.
These tyres never seem to get a particularly good press. There are probably grippier track days tyres out there, but I think I've done between 1500 to 2000 miles on track with these, plus a few road miles and they've still got plenty of life left.
Anyway after the fun on Monday I've put the gold wheels back on the car and the AD08s in the shed.
These tyres never seem to get a particularly good press. There are probably grippier track days tyres out there, but I think I've done between 1500 to 2000 miles on track with these, plus a few road miles and they've still got plenty of life left.
I'd had hoped to get another track day booked in Decembe, but finding one at a track nearby, on a day when I didn't have something big on at work, and when I wasn't needed for childcare proved impossible.
So I've bitten the bullet and got the sills repaired.
Ever since I poked a hole in the sill I'd been meaning to sort this out, but when a chap at worked mentioned a good mobile welder I got him booked.
Rotten bits chopped out.
New bits added in
And it looks smarter already.
So the front jack point has been rebuilt with 3mm, the hole at the rear cut out and replaced, all drainage holes re-made and cleared as well. Plus cavity wax hosed over everything.
The rear drainage holes were crushed and blocked, which is why this side was so much worse than the passengers.
So I've bitten the bullet and got the sills repaired.
Ever since I poked a hole in the sill I'd been meaning to sort this out, but when a chap at worked mentioned a good mobile welder I got him booked.
Rotten bits chopped out.
New bits added in
And it looks smarter already.
So the front jack point has been rebuilt with 3mm, the hole at the rear cut out and replaced, all drainage holes re-made and cleared as well. Plus cavity wax hosed over everything.
The rear drainage holes were crushed and blocked, which is why this side was so much worse than the passengers.
If you can take the rear passenger side panels out as this gives access to the inside of the wings, wheel arch and you can also see inside the sill from there. You can then spray wax or other corrosion inhibitor into the cavity and lower wheel arch areas that can sometimes rust from the inside.
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