E90 M3 - V8 saloon
Discussion
Update time, with pictures!
Firstly, that troublesome door locking problem wasn't as bad as I thought. I had a rummage in the fuse box behind the glovebox, (which isn't easy when you can only access the car from the driver's door!) and I found a dead fuse relating to the central locking. That sprang three doors and the petrol flap back in to life
The driver's front door is still kaput. It now seems to reliably unlock ok but not lock. No matter, I've got a new one to fit 
Yesterday found me in a familiar position, namely on axle stands in my friend Andy's garage:
One very expensive box of bits to play with in the back of the boot, and if you remember from an earlier update, I've got an expensive jiffy bag full of exhaust bolts/O-rings/clamps too. Forgot to bring them with me last time I was in Andy's garage.
Another thing. That boot carpet looks minging. I'll do something about that later...
I won't bore you with too many underside shots, as you've seen them up there ^ somewhere. We popped the exhaust, heatshields and then the prop off the car so I could replace the CV joint I didn't have last time. It was definitely causing some vibration, so I'd rather replace it and then all the serviceable bits on the prop are brand new:
Brand new one installed on the end of the prop and lots of Moly grease packed in:
The end cap presented a minor problem. It's just a push fit in to the end of the CV to keep the grease in place, except it's a really tight fit. We decided the best way to do this was to use the diff flange to press it in place as we tightened the CV bolts:
Now for a 'while you're there' job. Gearbox oil. According to my service history it had been done in 2019, but I wanted to do it myself to make sure the right stuff was in there. The car was already up on stands and access was good, so oil came as part of my expensive box of bits. According to t'internet you need 'about 2.5L' for an oil change. BMW supplied me with 2L so we erred on the side of caution and caught some old oil in a clean milk carton in case we desperately needed to top up:
The old oil doesn't look particularly good. Was it even changed in 2019? Who knows:
2x good stuff, (yes I know, only one pictured):
You can just about make out the drain and refill points here. We made sure the filler came off before draining for obvious reasons:
Pumping in the new stuff. Guess who was right - interweb or main dealer for oil capacity? Of course it was the main dealer! I got right to the very bottom of my second litre of oil and was beginning to doubt I'd been supplied enough only to see the start of the trickle of brand new oil flowing back out of the fill point. Hurrah, no old oil has to go back in!
Buttoning everything back up - nice shiny new O-rings for the mainfolds and new bolts with the proper copper nuts too:
No pictures of the new clamps that seal the centre section to backbox but trust me, they're on there!
FInally, I always take a picture of the mileage once I've done some work to remind me to update my spreadsheet of service items/cost/mileage etc
One successful test drive later, no vibraton felt. Everything feels very tight, and to top it off, the gear change is extra slick now
Firstly, that troublesome door locking problem wasn't as bad as I thought. I had a rummage in the fuse box behind the glovebox, (which isn't easy when you can only access the car from the driver's door!) and I found a dead fuse relating to the central locking. That sprang three doors and the petrol flap back in to life
The driver's front door is still kaput. It now seems to reliably unlock ok but not lock. No matter, I've got a new one to fit Yesterday found me in a familiar position, namely on axle stands in my friend Andy's garage:
One very expensive box of bits to play with in the back of the boot, and if you remember from an earlier update, I've got an expensive jiffy bag full of exhaust bolts/O-rings/clamps too. Forgot to bring them with me last time I was in Andy's garage.
Another thing. That boot carpet looks minging. I'll do something about that later...
I won't bore you with too many underside shots, as you've seen them up there ^ somewhere. We popped the exhaust, heatshields and then the prop off the car so I could replace the CV joint I didn't have last time. It was definitely causing some vibration, so I'd rather replace it and then all the serviceable bits on the prop are brand new:
Brand new one installed on the end of the prop and lots of Moly grease packed in:
The end cap presented a minor problem. It's just a push fit in to the end of the CV to keep the grease in place, except it's a really tight fit. We decided the best way to do this was to use the diff flange to press it in place as we tightened the CV bolts:
Now for a 'while you're there' job. Gearbox oil. According to my service history it had been done in 2019, but I wanted to do it myself to make sure the right stuff was in there. The car was already up on stands and access was good, so oil came as part of my expensive box of bits. According to t'internet you need 'about 2.5L' for an oil change. BMW supplied me with 2L so we erred on the side of caution and caught some old oil in a clean milk carton in case we desperately needed to top up:
The old oil doesn't look particularly good. Was it even changed in 2019? Who knows:
2x good stuff, (yes I know, only one pictured):
You can just about make out the drain and refill points here. We made sure the filler came off before draining for obvious reasons:
Pumping in the new stuff. Guess who was right - interweb or main dealer for oil capacity? Of course it was the main dealer! I got right to the very bottom of my second litre of oil and was beginning to doubt I'd been supplied enough only to see the start of the trickle of brand new oil flowing back out of the fill point. Hurrah, no old oil has to go back in!
Buttoning everything back up - nice shiny new O-rings for the mainfolds and new bolts with the proper copper nuts too:
No pictures of the new clamps that seal the centre section to backbox but trust me, they're on there!
FInally, I always take a picture of the mileage once I've done some work to remind me to update my spreadsheet of service items/cost/mileage etc
One successful test drive later, no vibraton felt. Everything feels very tight, and to top it off, the gear change is extra slick now
Long time, no update. Stuff has happened and pictures were taken, so I shall carry on below:
Firstly, that door lock. It needed to be changed, although after I'd replaced it I realised I hadn't replaced a fuse as the new lock didn't work at first... I'm sure the original was faulty though or it wouldn't have packed up in the first place. I only have about 1% doubt that I wasted ~£200 on a new lock though. Note to self: check fuses thoroughly and make sure they're back in the right place...
Off with the door card:
Door internals:
I think I got a bit carried away after that as there aren't any pictures of the old lock coming out or the new one going in.
The car was due a service now, and I'd not replaced the spark plugs during my ownership of nearly two years so I thought it best to swap them out and be sure they're all in good condition:
Airbox off. This takes about five minutes now I know how it's done:
Just to give you an idea, the coil packs are a tight fit, and the plugs are a fair way down in the cylinder heads:
Cylinder 8 was awkward to do but not that bad. Then we got to cylinder 4! This is the rear-most cylinder on the driver's side and there's a gnat's whisker of space to play with. Spot the extension socket on the end of the plug:
Alternate view that makes it look easy, but it really isn't:
See what I mean about no space?
We got there with less hassle than it actually looked, and I was relieved to see that all the spark plugs that came out were A) correct spec, and B) in really good condition, further confirming this car's been really well looked after before me.
Sample of spark plugs, sir?
Everything back together again and looking semi-pretty after a quick oily rag session:
Last but not least, the oil change:
The usual Castrol 10/60 was used but I'm considering changing to 10/50 on the next service so that the oil is just a bit thinner when cold and hot. I'm following M539 Restorations on Youtube and he's been using it for years and many miles so it looks worth a go.
More bits and pieces to follow soon. There's always something to tinker with
Firstly, that door lock. It needed to be changed, although after I'd replaced it I realised I hadn't replaced a fuse as the new lock didn't work at first... I'm sure the original was faulty though or it wouldn't have packed up in the first place. I only have about 1% doubt that I wasted ~£200 on a new lock though. Note to self: check fuses thoroughly and make sure they're back in the right place...
Off with the door card:
Door internals:
I think I got a bit carried away after that as there aren't any pictures of the old lock coming out or the new one going in.
The car was due a service now, and I'd not replaced the spark plugs during my ownership of nearly two years so I thought it best to swap them out and be sure they're all in good condition:
Airbox off. This takes about five minutes now I know how it's done:
Just to give you an idea, the coil packs are a tight fit, and the plugs are a fair way down in the cylinder heads:
Cylinder 8 was awkward to do but not that bad. Then we got to cylinder 4! This is the rear-most cylinder on the driver's side and there's a gnat's whisker of space to play with. Spot the extension socket on the end of the plug:
Alternate view that makes it look easy, but it really isn't:
See what I mean about no space?
We got there with less hassle than it actually looked, and I was relieved to see that all the spark plugs that came out were A) correct spec, and B) in really good condition, further confirming this car's been really well looked after before me.
Sample of spark plugs, sir?
Everything back together again and looking semi-pretty after a quick oily rag session:
Last but not least, the oil change:
The usual Castrol 10/60 was used but I'm considering changing to 10/50 on the next service so that the oil is just a bit thinner when cold and hot. I'm following M539 Restorations on Youtube and he's been using it for years and many miles so it looks worth a go.
More bits and pieces to follow soon. There's always something to tinker with
Small update! Not a lot has happened to the M3 of late. I've been using it for trips here and there, most noteable of late was driving from Kent to Oulton Park race circuit and back to watch some GT racing with a friend. There's definitely a drivetrain vibration again. I'm pretty sure it's the diff this time. Like the E46's, one side of the diff ends up with free play, and I reckon that's the issue. My diff is definitely worn so needs a rebuild anyway - it doesn't really lock any more, so I've bought a rebuild kit from Racing Diffs at a not-inconsiderable cost. It'll solve the problem as they include a compression washer that the OEM setup doesn't have, which means you don't have any free play on one side of the diff. Of course that meant I needed to buy a 12 ton floor standing press and a large vice too... Just need to build my work bench and I can crack on! The car now lives in a garage too as I've moved house:
I'll update once the diff is in pieces
I'll update once the diff is in pieces
Long time no update!
I'm pleased to say that I didn't end up selling the car or even SORNing it. I just drove it occasionally and remembered why it's excellent. Nothing between the last update and now has happened really. It had the usual yearly service that I give it regardless of mileage and passed its MOT again with no advisories. I couldn't believe I've spent next to no time or money maintaining the car this year as it's not really needed anything. It was about time that not working on this car changed! I had a job stored up for a long time that I really wanted to get stuck in to, but the new house renovation project kept pulling me away from; namely the diff rebuild. Well, I pulled my finger out and got on with it!
Not before a trip to Spa over the summer to watch some racing. Twice
I found a nice bit of countryside very near the circuit for a good shot of the car. I also tested my diff out, knowing I was going to schedule some time soon and rebuild it. I don't think it did number 11's very well.
With the racing trips finished it was time to get serious. I've never dropped the diff before, or any diff to be precise. I knew it was supposed to be fairly straightforward on this particular flavour of M3 but even so, this was silly quick. Less than two hours including faffing around jacking the car up, having a chat and probably a tea break for good measure and the car was looking like this:
Now, the bit that actually takes time if you haven't done it before. Taking the internals of the diff apart, replacing worn clutch stack in the 'LS' part of the LSD and also replacing all bearings and seals while in there.
Measuring backlash before touching anything, just so I had some kind of idea:
Professional image++ Makes me look like I know what I'm doing, doesn't it
I then took the LSD out of the casing, leaving only the pinion shaft/gear:
This is where it gets really scary. I had to grind out a small 'security' ball bearing that stops you undoing the ring that holds the LSD unit together. Big boy pants required here, brave pills etc. Once that was dealt with I used the special tool to undo the ring on top of the unit:
This then allows you to take the internals of the LSD apart. Here we have the viscous coupler unit, clutch stack and the top spider gear in the middle:
Looking inside the casing at the rest of the spider gears. This is the 'open diff' part:
Spider gears removed. Just a bare case now:
Here they are ready for cleaning:
Now, change of underwear required again as you have to grind the old bearing races off, after physically breaking the old bearing cages and letting all the roller bearings fall out everywhere. It's the only way to remove them:
Pressing the new bearing on was much less scary:
Here's the old clutch stack. Smooth plate followed by friction plate. Rinse and repeat through the stack. The washer on the left sits at the bottom of the LSD casing under the first spider gear. My rebuild kit replaces that flat washer with a spring washer variant. This eliminates the slop you get in the passenger side output flange as the diff wears during normal use. That was another major reason for doing this rebuild, and probably the main cause of vibration I could feel under acceleration.
On to the pinion shaft. This little bugger took a full 10 ton of pressure (out of 12 available on my press
) to remove. Boy, did it go BANG when it let go. More underwear... The reason it didn't want to let go soon became clear. The bearing on the input side of the pinion had some corrosion somehow on the side of the race pressed up on to the pinion shaft:
More grinding of old bearing races. This one you had to be particularly careful with as the bearing race gets much thicker towards the pinion gear where it's a double bearing of different diameters. I really, really didn't want to start slicing the shaft itself up, so concentrated very hard on this one!
Pressing out the old bearing races in the diff casing proved to be awkward for one of them. I bodged my way around that one with a Heath-Robinson setup on my press, but it worked!
Once all the bearings were sorted it was just a case of pressing in the pinion shaft, one input and two output oil seals, and then the LSD unit could be slotted back in the casing. After checking the correct breakaway torque had been achieved, or course. I wasn't 100% sure I'd got it right the first time so I took the LSD unit apart again just to be sure. I also needed to measure the rotational torque of the pinion shaft with the new bearings and crush washer. I was happy that I'd got it as good as it was possible to get so sealed the unit up and put some fresh oil in while it was still on the bench, Much easier than when it's back on the car!
All complete:
I gave the casing the worst paint job ever after this pic, just to protect from the worst of the weather. It'll be coming off again at some point in the future as I intend to do an underside refurb.
Here's the diff back in the car, exhaust back on etc, ready to drive:
So, does it work better? Is it still clunky? Well, there's no noise apart from a bit of groaning from the clutch discs when doing tight turns, which i expect to go away as everything wears in. There's no vibration at all now and no clunking either. Not from the diff at least. The fact that it's in perfect condition has highlighted that it's the gearbox which also has a small amount of slop. The whine I was experiencing is still there so I'm now sure it's the gearbox at fault. It's barely noticeable in third gear and quite loud in fourth. Who can blame it at 155k miles? New bearings required in there too methinks. I've got a plan up my sleeve for that, but we'll have to see how much over time I can do at work to pay for it!
I'm pleased to say that I didn't end up selling the car or even SORNing it. I just drove it occasionally and remembered why it's excellent. Nothing between the last update and now has happened really. It had the usual yearly service that I give it regardless of mileage and passed its MOT again with no advisories. I couldn't believe I've spent next to no time or money maintaining the car this year as it's not really needed anything. It was about time that not working on this car changed! I had a job stored up for a long time that I really wanted to get stuck in to, but the new house renovation project kept pulling me away from; namely the diff rebuild. Well, I pulled my finger out and got on with it!
Not before a trip to Spa over the summer to watch some racing. Twice
I found a nice bit of countryside very near the circuit for a good shot of the car. I also tested my diff out, knowing I was going to schedule some time soon and rebuild it. I don't think it did number 11's very well.
With the racing trips finished it was time to get serious. I've never dropped the diff before, or any diff to be precise. I knew it was supposed to be fairly straightforward on this particular flavour of M3 but even so, this was silly quick. Less than two hours including faffing around jacking the car up, having a chat and probably a tea break for good measure and the car was looking like this:
Now, the bit that actually takes time if you haven't done it before. Taking the internals of the diff apart, replacing worn clutch stack in the 'LS' part of the LSD and also replacing all bearings and seals while in there.
Measuring backlash before touching anything, just so I had some kind of idea:
Professional image++ Makes me look like I know what I'm doing, doesn't it
I then took the LSD out of the casing, leaving only the pinion shaft/gear:
This is where it gets really scary. I had to grind out a small 'security' ball bearing that stops you undoing the ring that holds the LSD unit together. Big boy pants required here, brave pills etc. Once that was dealt with I used the special tool to undo the ring on top of the unit:
This then allows you to take the internals of the LSD apart. Here we have the viscous coupler unit, clutch stack and the top spider gear in the middle:
Looking inside the casing at the rest of the spider gears. This is the 'open diff' part:
Spider gears removed. Just a bare case now:
Here they are ready for cleaning:
Now, change of underwear required again as you have to grind the old bearing races off, after physically breaking the old bearing cages and letting all the roller bearings fall out everywhere. It's the only way to remove them:
Pressing the new bearing on was much less scary:
Here's the old clutch stack. Smooth plate followed by friction plate. Rinse and repeat through the stack. The washer on the left sits at the bottom of the LSD casing under the first spider gear. My rebuild kit replaces that flat washer with a spring washer variant. This eliminates the slop you get in the passenger side output flange as the diff wears during normal use. That was another major reason for doing this rebuild, and probably the main cause of vibration I could feel under acceleration.
On to the pinion shaft. This little bugger took a full 10 ton of pressure (out of 12 available on my press
) to remove. Boy, did it go BANG when it let go. More underwear... The reason it didn't want to let go soon became clear. The bearing on the input side of the pinion had some corrosion somehow on the side of the race pressed up on to the pinion shaft:More grinding of old bearing races. This one you had to be particularly careful with as the bearing race gets much thicker towards the pinion gear where it's a double bearing of different diameters. I really, really didn't want to start slicing the shaft itself up, so concentrated very hard on this one!
Pressing out the old bearing races in the diff casing proved to be awkward for one of them. I bodged my way around that one with a Heath-Robinson setup on my press, but it worked!
Once all the bearings were sorted it was just a case of pressing in the pinion shaft, one input and two output oil seals, and then the LSD unit could be slotted back in the casing. After checking the correct breakaway torque had been achieved, or course. I wasn't 100% sure I'd got it right the first time so I took the LSD unit apart again just to be sure. I also needed to measure the rotational torque of the pinion shaft with the new bearings and crush washer. I was happy that I'd got it as good as it was possible to get so sealed the unit up and put some fresh oil in while it was still on the bench, Much easier than when it's back on the car!
All complete:
I gave the casing the worst paint job ever after this pic, just to protect from the worst of the weather. It'll be coming off again at some point in the future as I intend to do an underside refurb.
Here's the diff back in the car, exhaust back on etc, ready to drive:
So, does it work better? Is it still clunky? Well, there's no noise apart from a bit of groaning from the clutch discs when doing tight turns, which i expect to go away as everything wears in. There's no vibration at all now and no clunking either. Not from the diff at least. The fact that it's in perfect condition has highlighted that it's the gearbox which also has a small amount of slop. The whine I was experiencing is still there so I'm now sure it's the gearbox at fault. It's barely noticeable in third gear and quite loud in fourth. Who can blame it at 155k miles? New bearings required in there too methinks. I've got a plan up my sleeve for that, but we'll have to see how much over time I can do at work to pay for it!
Thanks everyone! It took me a while of watching the Youtube video that Racing Diffs made showing how to rebuild this, to fully understand what was going on. Once I got my head around it I was happy to take mine to pieces and now I've done a full rebuild on it I'm confident it wouldn't take half the time if I did another. I was being extra careful and double checking everything first time around.
Running costs wise, I wouldn't say it's been bad at all. My main spends on this car have been the suspension refresh, rod bearings and the diff rebuild. It's just 'old car' stuff that needed doing to bring it back to excellent condition. I bet there aren't many out there with this level of work and yet they'll sell for loads more than my car simply for being lower mileage examples. The tax cost grates a bit; it's much more than my insurance for the year! Petrol cost is a consideration but you don't buy a car like this for MPG returns
Running costs wise, I wouldn't say it's been bad at all. My main spends on this car have been the suspension refresh, rod bearings and the diff rebuild. It's just 'old car' stuff that needed doing to bring it back to excellent condition. I bet there aren't many out there with this level of work and yet they'll sell for loads more than my car simply for being lower mileage examples. The tax cost grates a bit; it's much more than my insurance for the year! Petrol cost is a consideration but you don't buy a car like this for MPG returns
About time for another update. That was a swift 8 months 
What's happened since September then? A few bits and pieces actually. I was STILL chasing a slight vibration in the drive train and decided to rule out drive shafts too by having them refurbed:
That didn't make the slightest bit of difference either but at least I now know they're definitely ok, along with the diff and prop shaft. The gearbox whine isn't that bad, but of course I'm tuned in to it so I notice it. It's not likely to be the source of a vibration in itself. The last option on my list was the flywheel, seeing as I had no history of it or the clutch being changed. Even if it had been changed before, at 156k miles it would probably want a new one anyway. These cars have self adjusting clutches which take in to account the wear on the friction plates (there are two), so that the biting point is always roughly the middle of the pedal as per a new clutch. That means you don't really notice the wear unless it's properly dead. Mine felt fine, but I decided it was good preventative maintenance anyway to have a new clutch/flywheel combo. I didn't want to get the 'box out on the floor of my garage as it's a bit awkward to do without a ramp so I sent it off to a mate who runs a garage. He confirmed the old clutch was nearly finished and the flywheel was completely dead. YES! We found the source of vibration at long last. He also said the gearbox was serviceable but did have a bit of wear so we left it as it was for now. A test drive confirmed all was well, so I now have a very sorted car. It was in good company at the garage:
Fast forward a bit and my windscreen washer jets stopped working. The headlight washers were fine though. I bought a replacement windscreen washer pump and set about changing it. We've been here before when I changed the bottle right at the start of my ownership:
Pump swapped and everything buttoned back up:
Another small thing that had started to bug was the fact that the handbrake wasn't very good any more. A quick strip down revealed the problem straight away:
The lever that the handbrake cable pulls on to actuate the brake shoes was seized and very rusty. This was soon sorted with a replacement. I did both sides, just in case you were wondering!
The only outstanding bit of maintenance to do is flush the brake fluid as it's been just over two years since I last did it and the dash is shouting at me to sort it out. I'm making an effort to actually use this car a bit more as it did hardly any miles between its last couple of MOT's. I've just realised I'm not far off the next MOT and I've done under 2,000 miles this year...
What's happened since September then? A few bits and pieces actually. I was STILL chasing a slight vibration in the drive train and decided to rule out drive shafts too by having them refurbed:
That didn't make the slightest bit of difference either but at least I now know they're definitely ok, along with the diff and prop shaft. The gearbox whine isn't that bad, but of course I'm tuned in to it so I notice it. It's not likely to be the source of a vibration in itself. The last option on my list was the flywheel, seeing as I had no history of it or the clutch being changed. Even if it had been changed before, at 156k miles it would probably want a new one anyway. These cars have self adjusting clutches which take in to account the wear on the friction plates (there are two), so that the biting point is always roughly the middle of the pedal as per a new clutch. That means you don't really notice the wear unless it's properly dead. Mine felt fine, but I decided it was good preventative maintenance anyway to have a new clutch/flywheel combo. I didn't want to get the 'box out on the floor of my garage as it's a bit awkward to do without a ramp so I sent it off to a mate who runs a garage. He confirmed the old clutch was nearly finished and the flywheel was completely dead. YES! We found the source of vibration at long last. He also said the gearbox was serviceable but did have a bit of wear so we left it as it was for now. A test drive confirmed all was well, so I now have a very sorted car. It was in good company at the garage:
Fast forward a bit and my windscreen washer jets stopped working. The headlight washers were fine though. I bought a replacement windscreen washer pump and set about changing it. We've been here before when I changed the bottle right at the start of my ownership:
Pump swapped and everything buttoned back up:
Another small thing that had started to bug was the fact that the handbrake wasn't very good any more. A quick strip down revealed the problem straight away:
The lever that the handbrake cable pulls on to actuate the brake shoes was seized and very rusty. This was soon sorted with a replacement. I did both sides, just in case you were wondering!
The only outstanding bit of maintenance to do is flush the brake fluid as it's been just over two years since I last did it and the dash is shouting at me to sort it out. I'm making an effort to actually use this car a bit more as it did hardly any miles between its last couple of MOT's. I've just realised I'm not far off the next MOT and I've done under 2,000 miles this year...
Well, I've decided that it's time to sell. I've had almost four years of excellent service from one of the best sounding engines ever. If I had sufficient storage space I'd probably just park it in a corner for a while, but I don't. I'm not using it loads as it's a spare car really, so lets see if anyone else wants to use it some more
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d_a_n1979 said:
Ah; hadn't clicked that was you on Cutters pal
GLWTS; it's a stunning looking car
Thanks! Didn't realise you were on there either GLWTS; it's a stunning looking car
Sofa said:
That is lovely- if I could man-maths my way into one of these (believe me, I've tried) then I'd probably be getting in touch with you! Sparkling Graphite is one of my favourite colours from this era of BMW, love the little pop of purple it has in the sun.
Good luck with the sale, looks like whoever buys it will be getting a really good example.
You need to try harder with the man-maths in that case!! I don't think you'll find a more sorted car out there unless you want to spend a *lot* more. The mileage on mine is what holds the price back, which is absurd as I'll be willing to bet it's in better condition than many more expensive examples. Good luck with the sale, looks like whoever buys it will be getting a really good example.
My car hasn't sold yet. I'm not trying particularly hard and I do like driving it so if it stays a spare car I guess that's not really the end of the world, is it! Since the last update it passed the MOT without a single advisory again, and I've stuck two new Continental SportContact 7's on the rear. I actually went for 255/35/19 instead of OEM size of 265/35 as the price difference was quite large and the rolling circumference was only 1% different. My front tyres are Eagle F1's but are showing their age even though they've got over 5mm tread left. I'll replace those before the year is out I expect.
In the mean time, I've done a random 280 mile round trip to meet a friend in a Wetherspoons of all places for an quick evening of catch up and food. I've got a road trip to Germany next week, and then I'll be on show at the PH25 event in August. Hope to see some of you there in person!
In the mean time, I've done a random 280 mile round trip to meet a friend in a Wetherspoons of all places for an quick evening of catch up and food. I've got a road trip to Germany next week, and then I'll be on show at the PH25 event in August. Hope to see some of you there in person!
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