g3org3y's shedtastic £900 BMW E46 330Ci
Discussion
The E36 328i Touring is gone 
As such, a new budget daily driver was required.
Cue the £900 2000 E46 330Ci.
Next to the wife's E91 330i (which ultimately replaced the 328 as we have a baby on the way)
In SE spec, came complete with working air conditioning, leather interior, cruise control, 18 inch MV1 alloys (retrofitted by previous owner), 6 disc CD changer and most importantly, manual gearbox. Note, as this is an early model it has the 5 speed box, I believe later 330s had a 6 speed.
~150k on the clock but very decent service history.
Bodywork surprisingly good. Small rust bubble front left arch but otherwise pretty darn straight.
Some details:
Original BMW first aid kit
Working BMW glovebox torch
Nice clean boot complete with jack, warning triangle, chock and spacesaver (under the cover).
Original now complete toolkit (was missing the pliers, spark plug tool and wheel alignment pin but had spares). Just ordered the alloy wheel locking key.
Seemed to be quite a well cared for car. Apart from the retrofitted MV alloys, it had a RamAir induction kit installed.
On the drive back from collecting it, made it 95% of the way home when suddenly it had a grumble. ASC/DSC light came on and the engine would hesitate on acceleration. After parking up and trying to restart, it took quite a few turns before it'd catch and then the idle was lumpy.
Fault code was read:
Suggested the crankshaft position sensor. Not especially major and (relatively speaking) a straightforward job as it is positioned on the side of the block. MAF/hoses and some other bits need to be removed for access but nothing major. Research online suggested not to bother with any pattern parts and only use genuine BMW item.
The next morning once the engine (and sensor) had cooled, car started fine. Drove it to work daily with no issues and no recurrence of the problem. However, decided it was sensible to just replace the sensor to prevent the issue happening again.
Visit to the local dealer to get the sensor (plus bolt + o-ring)
Was going to attempt the job myself but looked a bit on the fiddly side, plus with a bolt that may be seized after 19 years issues could ensue so decided to entrust to my local mechanic. In the meantime, bought an OE airbox on ebay (+ Mann air filter). I requested when refitting the MAF/hoses following the sensor change to replace the induction kit with the airbox.
This was completed earlier this week:
Apart from that, I've just fitted new Bosch wipers and Osram Nightbreaker Laser H7 bulbs (as no xenons). They are actually very impressive and I'd recommend them to anyone struggling with rubbish OE halogen lights on their car.
Other minor issues:
- Driver's side door doesn't 'hold' in the open position
- Amber oil level light comes on for 5 seconds on starting - this is owing to a faulty sensor (checked the level manually). Seller actually included the sensor with the car. Quite straightforward to change and will do it when I change the oil.
Next steps:
- Change the manual box oil and differential oil.
- Next oil change is due in 4500 miles according to the OBC but might do it with the above and spark plugs so it's done.
- Have some 17 inch Alpina Softlines from my E36 sitting in the garage. Tempted to 'downsize' to 17s (I believe they'll fit fine) and put some Michelin CrossClimates for year round usability.
- MoT due August 2020.
Otherwise, for the time being the plan is just to drive and enjoy. Can't complain for £900 methinks.
As such, a new budget daily driver was required.
Cue the £900 2000 E46 330Ci.
Next to the wife's E91 330i (which ultimately replaced the 328 as we have a baby on the way)
In SE spec, came complete with working air conditioning, leather interior, cruise control, 18 inch MV1 alloys (retrofitted by previous owner), 6 disc CD changer and most importantly, manual gearbox. Note, as this is an early model it has the 5 speed box, I believe later 330s had a 6 speed.
~150k on the clock but very decent service history.
Bodywork surprisingly good. Small rust bubble front left arch but otherwise pretty darn straight.
Some details:
Original BMW first aid kit
Working BMW glovebox torch
Nice clean boot complete with jack, warning triangle, chock and spacesaver (under the cover).
Original now complete toolkit (was missing the pliers, spark plug tool and wheel alignment pin but had spares). Just ordered the alloy wheel locking key.
Seemed to be quite a well cared for car. Apart from the retrofitted MV alloys, it had a RamAir induction kit installed.
On the drive back from collecting it, made it 95% of the way home when suddenly it had a grumble. ASC/DSC light came on and the engine would hesitate on acceleration. After parking up and trying to restart, it took quite a few turns before it'd catch and then the idle was lumpy.
Fault code was read:
Suggested the crankshaft position sensor. Not especially major and (relatively speaking) a straightforward job as it is positioned on the side of the block. MAF/hoses and some other bits need to be removed for access but nothing major. Research online suggested not to bother with any pattern parts and only use genuine BMW item.
The next morning once the engine (and sensor) had cooled, car started fine. Drove it to work daily with no issues and no recurrence of the problem. However, decided it was sensible to just replace the sensor to prevent the issue happening again.
Visit to the local dealer to get the sensor (plus bolt + o-ring)
Was going to attempt the job myself but looked a bit on the fiddly side, plus with a bolt that may be seized after 19 years issues could ensue so decided to entrust to my local mechanic. In the meantime, bought an OE airbox on ebay (+ Mann air filter). I requested when refitting the MAF/hoses following the sensor change to replace the induction kit with the airbox.
This was completed earlier this week:
Apart from that, I've just fitted new Bosch wipers and Osram Nightbreaker Laser H7 bulbs (as no xenons). They are actually very impressive and I'd recommend them to anyone struggling with rubbish OE halogen lights on their car.
Other minor issues:
- Driver's side door doesn't 'hold' in the open position
- Amber oil level light comes on for 5 seconds on starting - this is owing to a faulty sensor (checked the level manually). Seller actually included the sensor with the car. Quite straightforward to change and will do it when I change the oil.
Next steps:
- Change the manual box oil and differential oil.
- Next oil change is due in 4500 miles according to the OBC but might do it with the above and spark plugs so it's done.
- Have some 17 inch Alpina Softlines from my E36 sitting in the garage. Tempted to 'downsize' to 17s (I believe they'll fit fine) and put some Michelin CrossClimates for year round usability.
- MoT due August 2020.
Otherwise, for the time being the plan is just to drive and enjoy. Can't complain for £900 methinks.
Very nice car, and a bit of a bargain!
My brother has had an E46 325 auto for 10 years, now on 152k. He is very particular, shall we say, about cars so that gives some indication of how good his still is with nothing beyond routine servicing and a bit of TLC now and then. I drove it 150 miles recently and it still feels fresh, plus the engine sounds lovely.
His had the MV1 wheels which looked great but tramlined badly. He swapped them for 17s and immediately noticed that the tramlining was completely gone, ride was better due to more sidewall in the tyre and tyre noise was reduced. A worthwhile swap IMHO.
Re the diff oil, an easy job but you'll need a pump to get the new oil in due to access (can dig out a link to the one I used if needed) plus do get new drain and fill plug washers on hand before you start. The washers on our car just fell apart on removal. Our diff was considerably quieter after the fluid change so well worth the effort.
My brother has had an E46 325 auto for 10 years, now on 152k. He is very particular, shall we say, about cars so that gives some indication of how good his still is with nothing beyond routine servicing and a bit of TLC now and then. I drove it 150 miles recently and it still feels fresh, plus the engine sounds lovely.
His had the MV1 wheels which looked great but tramlined badly. He swapped them for 17s and immediately noticed that the tramlining was completely gone, ride was better due to more sidewall in the tyre and tyre noise was reduced. A worthwhile swap IMHO.
Re the diff oil, an easy job but you'll need a pump to get the new oil in due to access (can dig out a link to the one I used if needed) plus do get new drain and fill plug washers on hand before you start. The washers on our car just fell apart on removal. Our diff was considerably quieter after the fluid change so well worth the effort.
That's a bargain - looks pretty rust free too which is rare.
Has the cooling system had any recent work? That was the biggest source of frustration on my old 325ti.
I'm a big fan of the E46. That and the E39 are probably the best proportioned cars that BMW made - a visitor arrived in a lovely E46 M3 today which looked lovely in the car park.
Has the cooling system had any recent work? That was the biggest source of frustration on my old 325ti.
I'm a big fan of the E46. That and the E39 are probably the best proportioned cars that BMW made - a visitor arrived in a lovely E46 M3 today which looked lovely in the car park.
Thanks all, I'm pretty happy with it 
Will keep the thread updated as I go.
Thanks IR.
Being a devoted and conscientious future father, I also bought another car with Isofix.
That's 3 cars with Isofix (all with 3 litre straight six engines). Top parenting IMO
I changed the diff oil on my old E36 (as well as the manual box fluid), pretty straightforward to do (assuming plugs undo with no issues). Just had a delivery of Castrol Syntrax and I've ordered the new plugs (with the integrated o-rings). I'll look about the washers as well.
Having taken my 328 from 126k to 214k I've had my fair share of cooling issues (went through 2 or 3 rads in that time).
Will keep the thread updated as I go.
InductionRoar said:
g3org3y said:
we have a baby on the way
Congrats. Being a devoted and conscientious future father, I also bought another car with Isofix.
That's 3 cars with Isofix (all with 3 litre straight six engines). Top parenting IMO
Benton said:
His had the MV1 wheels which looked great but tramlined badly. He swapped them for 17s and immediately noticed that the tramlining was completely gone, ride was better due to more sidewall in the tyre and tyre noise was reduced. A worthwhile swap IMHO.
Re the diff oil, an easy job but you'll need a pump to get the new oil in due to access (can dig out a link to the one I used if needed) plus do get new drain and fill plug washers on hand before you start. The washers on our car just fell apart on removal. Our diff was considerably quieter after the fluid change so well worth the effort.
Yes, the downsize to 17s is tempting. Must admit, the Alpinas are a bit worse for wear and could do with a refurb. Something to consider.Re the diff oil, an easy job but you'll need a pump to get the new oil in due to access (can dig out a link to the one I used if needed) plus do get new drain and fill plug washers on hand before you start. The washers on our car just fell apart on removal. Our diff was considerably quieter after the fluid change so well worth the effort.
I changed the diff oil on my old E36 (as well as the manual box fluid), pretty straightforward to do (assuming plugs undo with no issues). Just had a delivery of Castrol Syntrax and I've ordered the new plugs (with the integrated o-rings). I'll look about the washers as well.
Amirhussain said:
Alex from Car Throttle purchased one for....£140...
Indeed! His seems a bit worse for wear but still going!Court_S said:
Has the cooling system had any recent work? That was the biggest source of frustration on my old 325ti.
.
I think it had a waterpump not that long ago. Can't remember re the rad. IIRC, .
Having taken my 328 from 126k to 214k I've had my fair share of cooling issues (went through 2 or 3 rads in that time).
Aluminati said:
Nice one George, and congrats re the nipper on the way 
Can’t remember if Croxy had some bits lurking for one of these, shall ask.
Tom.
Thanks Tom, hope life treating you well. Can’t remember if Croxy had some bits lurking for one of these, shall ask.
Tom.
Update:
Been driving the car daily for work and so far it hasn't blown up! Split fold rear seats means it's quite useful for tip runs:
Few little bits and pieces going on though:
1) Following the installation of the OE airbox, the dash threw up a Check Engine light. Thought that as a bit odd as the engine was running fine. No lumpiness, full power all through the rev range.
Plugged in the code reader and it came up with:
Did some googling and it suggested the engine was running either rich or lean, various culprits including the rubber boots (cracked/leaking) linking the MAF, the MAF itself, O2 sensors, CCV etc.
The fact that it came on the day after the change to the OE airbox suggested an issue in the areas that were dismantled/reassembled. Perhaps one of the rubber boots became cracked and was leaking after removal and refit.
Admittedly I was quite lazy with this. As the car was starting and running fine, I didn't go out of my way to get this sorted. Every so often I'd clear the codes and extinguish the light. After a few days, the light would come back on again. Same codes. Again, running fine.
Last week, I replaced the rubber boot next to the MAF (#3 in the diagram) (was actually ok tbh) and gave the MAF a decent spray of MAF cleaner. After a few days, the light came back on. My next plan to was to look at/replace the rubber boot (#6)
Then a few days ago, the light went out of its own accord and hasn't appeared since. I wonder whether it's to do with the car's adaptations (I've read about people resetting them using OBD code readers). Perhaps it was used to the airflow from the induction kit and needed to take time adapt to the new (OE) set up.
Regardless, the light hasn't come back. Fingers crossed.
2) OS door mirror cover fell off (and disappeared somewhere). Cunning Ocado plastic bag shielding the precious electrics:
Managed to get a second hand cover on eBay for about £15. Sorted.
3) NS mirror wasn't heating up, so bought a new mirror, again ebay, less than a tenner. Works perfectly.
4) Last winter (or maybe the winter before) bought lots of screenwash on ebay at a bargain bulk buy price. Used it without any bother on my E36 (I use Genuine BMW on the E91 and Z4)
As the E46 was running low, thought I'd top it up. I noted it had red screenwash and I'd read that mixing different ones could cause problems. Given I had a couple of bottles of the stuff above and not wanting to buy any new red screenwash (tight git), I decided to run the screenwash tank to empty and take my chances.
Unfortunately, it seemed that the gamble didn't pay off. The jets weren't that great before TBH but quite quickly they became v weak indeed. They'd bubble for 5 seconds and then flow like an 80 year old with prostate problems.
Did a bit of reading and found out that it's the filters in the bottle get clogged up. Luckily they are quite accessible (unlike the later E90 which has them under the arch iirc). As such, decided to get them out and see what was going on.
There are two pumps with their own filters, one for the windscreen and one for the headlight washers.
Pumps unplug and lift up. The filter can then be removed.
Windscreen:
Headlight:
Hot water + nail brush =
Windscreen:
Headlight:
They work great now! (and I'm still using the blue screenwash).
5) CD autochanger shat itself and won't eject. Apparently can be removed and dismantled but can't be bothered tbh. Will stick to the radio for the time being.
6) Aircon still working well. Really great in the recent crappy weather keeping the windows mist free.
7) Plans: debating dropping down to 17s to get a set of Michelin CrossClimates. On the staggered 18 inch set up, the rears are 255/35R18 which is an annoying size as there isn't that much (including CrossClimates) available. On the 17s I'd be going for 225/45 R17s. We'll see...
So, overall not doing too bad for a £900 car. Doesn't look terrible when parked up in the village either despite being nearly 20 years old.
Been driving the car daily for work and so far it hasn't blown up! Split fold rear seats means it's quite useful for tip runs:
Few little bits and pieces going on though:
1) Following the installation of the OE airbox, the dash threw up a Check Engine light. Thought that as a bit odd as the engine was running fine. No lumpiness, full power all through the rev range.
Plugged in the code reader and it came up with:
Did some googling and it suggested the engine was running either rich or lean, various culprits including the rubber boots (cracked/leaking) linking the MAF, the MAF itself, O2 sensors, CCV etc.
The fact that it came on the day after the change to the OE airbox suggested an issue in the areas that were dismantled/reassembled. Perhaps one of the rubber boots became cracked and was leaking after removal and refit.
Admittedly I was quite lazy with this. As the car was starting and running fine, I didn't go out of my way to get this sorted. Every so often I'd clear the codes and extinguish the light. After a few days, the light would come back on again. Same codes. Again, running fine.
Last week, I replaced the rubber boot next to the MAF (#3 in the diagram) (was actually ok tbh) and gave the MAF a decent spray of MAF cleaner. After a few days, the light came back on. My next plan to was to look at/replace the rubber boot (#6)
Then a few days ago, the light went out of its own accord and hasn't appeared since. I wonder whether it's to do with the car's adaptations (I've read about people resetting them using OBD code readers). Perhaps it was used to the airflow from the induction kit and needed to take time adapt to the new (OE) set up.
Regardless, the light hasn't come back. Fingers crossed.
2) OS door mirror cover fell off (and disappeared somewhere). Cunning Ocado plastic bag shielding the precious electrics:
Managed to get a second hand cover on eBay for about £15. Sorted.
3) NS mirror wasn't heating up, so bought a new mirror, again ebay, less than a tenner. Works perfectly.
4) Last winter (or maybe the winter before) bought lots of screenwash on ebay at a bargain bulk buy price. Used it without any bother on my E36 (I use Genuine BMW on the E91 and Z4)
As the E46 was running low, thought I'd top it up. I noted it had red screenwash and I'd read that mixing different ones could cause problems. Given I had a couple of bottles of the stuff above and not wanting to buy any new red screenwash (tight git), I decided to run the screenwash tank to empty and take my chances.
Unfortunately, it seemed that the gamble didn't pay off. The jets weren't that great before TBH but quite quickly they became v weak indeed. They'd bubble for 5 seconds and then flow like an 80 year old with prostate problems.
Did a bit of reading and found out that it's the filters in the bottle get clogged up. Luckily they are quite accessible (unlike the later E90 which has them under the arch iirc). As such, decided to get them out and see what was going on.
There are two pumps with their own filters, one for the windscreen and one for the headlight washers.
Pumps unplug and lift up. The filter can then be removed.
Windscreen:
Headlight:
Hot water + nail brush =
Windscreen:
Headlight:
They work great now!
(and I'm still using the blue screenwash).5) CD autochanger shat itself and won't eject. Apparently can be removed and dismantled but can't be bothered tbh. Will stick to the radio for the time being.
6) Aircon still working well. Really great in the recent crappy weather keeping the windows mist free.
7) Plans: debating dropping down to 17s to get a set of Michelin CrossClimates. On the staggered 18 inch set up, the rears are 255/35R18 which is an annoying size as there isn't that much (including CrossClimates) available. On the 17s I'd be going for 225/45 R17s. We'll see...
So, overall not doing too bad for a £900 car. Doesn't look terrible when parked up in the village either despite being nearly 20 years old.
Edited by g3org3y on Saturday 16th November 20:49
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