g3org3y's shedtastic £900 BMW E46 330Ci
Discussion
Not very exciting update.
ASC/ABS light still on intermittently. I'm sure I'll get round to sorting.
Just to say, had a very sticky driver's side door handle. Used this Youtube tutorial to fix and it worked perfectly. Simple fix and definitely worth a go if your door handle is playing up.
ASC/ABS light still on intermittently. I'm sure I'll get round to sorting.
Just to say, had a very sticky driver's side door handle. Used this Youtube tutorial to fix and it worked perfectly. Simple fix and definitely worth a go if your door handle is playing up.
Update...
Against official Shed rules, but had to spend some money for aesthetic purposes.
During a home visit at work, I noticed the right side grill was very loose. Checked and it appeared all the clips were buggered. Decided it was better to remove completely than have it fall out while driving along.
Couldn't leave the car like this so spent £22 on a new grill from eBay.
Normal service resumed:
Thought I'd take the opportunity today to change the oil and do the spark plugs (I don't think the latter had been done for many miles/years).
I was a bit worried about the spark plugs being seized and breaking on removal but thought I'd give it a go regardless.
Got it all jacked up and on axle stands
Top tip, Alpina alloys make good door stops
One of the thing that bothers me when changing spark plugs is the rubber insert on the removal tool. Gets stuck on the plug when you don't want it to.Tried to remove plug #1 and it seemed rock solid. Not a good start. Bugger. Thought I'd try plug #2. This came out much easier but wouldn't attach to the tool to allow removal. I then realised the rubber insert was still attached on plug #1. Double bugger. Sprayed a load of PlusGas down all the spark plug holes in the hope it'd help loosen things. Seems to have helped as #1 came out (with the rubber insert). In fact, all seemed to come out ok so big relief.
Quite a difference:
One of the little niggles with the car was the oil level light. On start up,, it would illuminate for 5-10 seconds and go out. The car was actually supplied with a replacement oil level sensor. It's quite straightforward to replace (stuck into the bottom of the sump) but to access you need to remove the metal undertray.
8x 16mm bolts. With a breaker bar and some effort got it off.
Oil drained. Sump plug surprisingly problem free to undo. I did notice however it was lacking the copper crush washer (which I did replace as it comes with the Mann oil filter).
3x10mm nuts and the old oil level sensor came out with no bother.
Oil filter was stuck like a mofo on the housing. Never had that before in all my years of working on BMWs with these kinds of filters. Actually had to cut it off with a stanley knife (didn't want to risk damaging the housing or insert).
All in all quite straighforward.
Car started, no misfire and hasn't pissed oil everywhere, so result!
- Yet to do the diff or gearbox oil.
- ASC/ABS light still intermittently on/off. Bought a replacement, looked easy enough to do. I tried to unscrew the sensor (allen key head iirc) but the f
king bolt managed to snap midway down the shaft! Will probably have to take to the mechanic to kindly sort.
Still check engine light on. Same codes, though now I noticed a new code: 7b Activation, map cooling
Research suggests this is to do with a thermostat electrical heating circuit failure and requires thermostat replacement, so that's on the list. Water pump was last done October 2017. Wonder whether it's worth doing that at the same time.
If I'm motivated tomorrow, I may check the proximal rubber boot on the intake and see if there are any cracks on that. I think I might need to remove the DISA valve to access.
The delights of old cars...!
Against official Shed rules, but had to spend some money for aesthetic purposes.
During a home visit at work, I noticed the right side grill was very loose. Checked and it appeared all the clips were buggered. Decided it was better to remove completely than have it fall out while driving along.
Couldn't leave the car like this so spent £22 on a new grill from eBay.
Normal service resumed:
Thought I'd take the opportunity today to change the oil and do the spark plugs (I don't think the latter had been done for many miles/years).
I was a bit worried about the spark plugs being seized and breaking on removal but thought I'd give it a go regardless.
Got it all jacked up and on axle stands
Top tip, Alpina alloys make good door stops
One of the thing that bothers me when changing spark plugs is the rubber insert on the removal tool. Gets stuck on the plug when you don't want it to.Tried to remove plug #1 and it seemed rock solid. Not a good start. Bugger. Thought I'd try plug #2. This came out much easier but wouldn't attach to the tool to allow removal. I then realised the rubber insert was still attached on plug #1. Double bugger. Sprayed a load of PlusGas down all the spark plug holes in the hope it'd help loosen things. Seems to have helped as #1 came out (with the rubber insert). In fact, all seemed to come out ok so big relief.
Quite a difference:
One of the little niggles with the car was the oil level light. On start up,, it would illuminate for 5-10 seconds and go out. The car was actually supplied with a replacement oil level sensor. It's quite straightforward to replace (stuck into the bottom of the sump) but to access you need to remove the metal undertray.
8x 16mm bolts. With a breaker bar and some effort got it off.
Oil drained. Sump plug surprisingly problem free to undo. I did notice however it was lacking the copper crush washer (which I did replace as it comes with the Mann oil filter).
3x10mm nuts and the old oil level sensor came out with no bother.
Oil filter was stuck like a mofo on the housing. Never had that before in all my years of working on BMWs with these kinds of filters. Actually had to cut it off with a stanley knife (didn't want to risk damaging the housing or insert).
All in all quite straighforward.
Car started, no misfire and hasn't pissed oil everywhere, so result! - Yet to do the diff or gearbox oil.
- ASC/ABS light still intermittently on/off. Bought a replacement, looked easy enough to do. I tried to unscrew the sensor (allen key head iirc) but the f
king bolt managed to snap midway down the shaft! Will probably have to take to the mechanic to kindly sort.Still check engine light on. Same codes, though now I noticed a new code: 7b Activation, map cooling
Research suggests this is to do with a thermostat electrical heating circuit failure and requires thermostat replacement, so that's on the list. Water pump was last done October 2017. Wonder whether it's worth doing that at the same time.
If I'm motivated tomorrow, I may check the proximal rubber boot on the intake and see if there are any cracks on that. I think I might need to remove the DISA valve to access.
The delights of old cars...!
Enjoying this thread, as a BMW fan, and owner of a couple of E36's previously (one being a 328i coupe which I regret selling).
Now driving an E91 320d m sport touring, which is also getting on a bit (2006), and as such has started to show the usual common faults (crank position sensor like yours too lol they don't seem to change with model).
Keep updating the thread matey, it's good reading !
Now driving an E91 320d m sport touring, which is also getting on a bit (2006), and as such has started to show the usual common faults (crank position sensor like yours too lol they don't seem to change with model).
Keep updating the thread matey, it's good reading !
Enthused by yesterday's activities, did a bit more in the garage over the evening.
I've already mentioned the check engine light and codes. I noticed that the idle first thing was also a bit lumpy. Was fine if you drove away immediately though. Also a few occasions of the last couple of weeks where the idle pulses when coming to standstill.
My plan was to remove the proximal rubber boot and replace and see if that had cracked or been damaged when the crankshaft sensor was replaced.
Bit fiddly to get to, necessitates removal of the DISA valve. Also ease of removal can very much depend on the orientation of the jubilee clips left by whoever worked on the car last.
Removed, needed a long socket to squeeze through a gap but managed it.
Annoyingly, looked fine (new on the left, old on the right)
DISA valve seemed to hold vacuum ok.
I did notice the deterioration of the gasket around the frame. Could that be an issue? I'm not sure. I also understand that the gasket at the base also degrades over time and causes an issue.
Have ordered a new one (went for Febi-Bilstein rather than a cheapo eBay special), so we'll see how that works out.
I've already mentioned the check engine light and codes. I noticed that the idle first thing was also a bit lumpy. Was fine if you drove away immediately though. Also a few occasions of the last couple of weeks where the idle pulses when coming to standstill.
My plan was to remove the proximal rubber boot and replace and see if that had cracked or been damaged when the crankshaft sensor was replaced.
Bit fiddly to get to, necessitates removal of the DISA valve. Also ease of removal can very much depend on the orientation of the jubilee clips left by whoever worked on the car last.
Removed, needed a long socket to squeeze through a gap but managed it.
Annoyingly, looked fine (new on the left, old on the right)
DISA valve seemed to hold vacuum ok.
I did notice the deterioration of the gasket around the frame. Could that be an issue? I'm not sure. I also understand that the gasket at the base also degrades over time and causes an issue.
Have ordered a new one (went for Febi-Bilstein rather than a cheapo eBay special), so we'll see how that works out.
Re the DISA, I’d personally rebuild it using the X8R kit and fit their replacement gasket that goes between the valve and intake body. Peace of mind then and it’s only c£60 and 30 mins job
Re the water pump, if it’s already been replaced, it’ll more than likely be a metal impeller which is what you want, if it’s the original one, personally, for c£30, I’d change it for the Meyle metal impeller water pump. The OEM ones are plastic and they do like to randomly fail...!
Cracking project though I keep looking for one that’s local and c£1k to buy, do up and give to the wife. Unfortunately the ones I’ve seen have been ravaged by tin worm
Re the water pump, if it’s already been replaced, it’ll more than likely be a metal impeller which is what you want, if it’s the original one, personally, for c£30, I’d change it for the Meyle metal impeller water pump. The OEM ones are plastic and they do like to randomly fail...!
Cracking project though
I keep looking for one that’s local and c£1k to buy, do up and give to the wife. Unfortunately the ones I’ve seen have been ravaged by tin worm
A bit of fun trivia for the BMW geeks. Originally the E46 Coupe was launched with the 318Ci, 320Ci, 323Ci and 328Ci. The 330Ci was released a little later. It looks like these early 330Cis were supplied with the regular manual which covers the aforementioned models, but also has a second supplementary manal covering the stats related to the 330Ci.
Edited by g3org3y on Monday 13th January 17:30
Leins said:
Very nice G3org3y, these are a fine car
Re the 18” MV1s, E46s with these are very sensitive to tyre choices, so I’d try to avoid mismatching. I had a mix of Bridgestones and Dunlops f/r for a brief while years ago and the DSC couldn’t handle it, making the car almost undriveable. Swapping to the Dunlops all round instantly cured the issue
Just had a quick look and Openeo.co.uk seem to have ContiSport 5s in these sizes, which from memory is a 225/40 18 on the front
That's really odd. I ran thousands of miles with mixed front/rear pairs on mine without any issues.Re the 18” MV1s, E46s with these are very sensitive to tyre choices, so I’d try to avoid mismatching. I had a mix of Bridgestones and Dunlops f/r for a brief while years ago and the DSC couldn’t handle it, making the car almost undriveable. Swapping to the Dunlops all round instantly cured the issue
Just had a quick look and Openeo.co.uk seem to have ContiSport 5s in these sizes, which from memory is a 225/40 18 on the front
Agreed that they are decent cars, but I'd say that having had a pair of sports 330s.
Gut feel for me was that they suited the auto box better. The smooth engine and heavy feel made them a great cruiser and London car for me.
wombleh said:
Often wondered if those night breaker bulbs were a worthwhile upgrade, ordered some for my e61 based on your comment.
Lovely car, I had the 320ci. Was great other than in the snow/ice so cross climates will be worthwhile!
They are definitely v decent bulbs. If you're stuck with halogens, worthwhile upgrade. Can't comment on their longevity but we'll see.Lovely car, I had the 320ci. Was great other than in the snow/ice so cross climates will be worthwhile!
C70R said:
Gut feel for me was that they suited the auto box better. The smooth engine and heavy feel made them a great cruiser and London car for me.
I've always felt the bigger engined sixes worked well as either manual or autos. The autos of this (and slightly later) era definitely stunt the economy though. I'd say my manual Z4 (3.0Si) is more economical than my wife's auto E91 330i.Speaking of which, because I've been working on the E46 330, the Z4 has been my daily over the last couple of days.
It may be over a decade old but I still think it looks fresh. Down in the village this morning:
Ph1listine said:
Incredible VFM, top shedding OP!
If only E46 M3 values had gone in a similar direction.
To be honest, this is kind of how non-M BMWs tend to go.If only E46 M3 values had gone in a similar direction.
They bomb at ~20yrs, once even the most aspirational tightwads have moved onto the newer model.
Then you have a mix of special/unique cars that start to climb in value, and a bunch of deluded souls with very ordinary cars who think they are 'saving a classic'.
As the former owner of two of the latter, I'd expect that the ordinary 330s (SEs/autos/saloons/low spec/silver/early cars/high milers) will still be languishing in the <£2k region for a while.
New DISA + all new rubber inlet boots fitted yesterday.
Difference made to the cold idle? fk all. Still bumpy from cold but if you drive off immediately it's fine.
Check engine light came back on today after I reset it. Same codes as before.
Engine does seem more eager though since the changes. Difficult to describe, just seems more punchy when you put your foot down.
Not sure what's next on the list to try and solve the idle/check engine light problem. Might just leave it.
Difference made to the cold idle? f
k all. Still bumpy from cold but if you drive off immediately it's fine. Check engine light came back on today after I reset it. Same codes as before.
Engine does seem more eager though since the changes. Difficult to describe, just seems more punchy when you put your foot down.
Not sure what's next on the list to try and solve the idle/check engine light problem. Might just leave it.
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