g3org3y's shedtastic £900 BMW E46 330Ci
Discussion
You could do with getting INPA and cable for a proper diagnostic to see whats going on. I'd be willing to put money on it being a vacuum leak somewhere which you could verify by seeing if your short term fuel trims are more than a few percent positive which then return to near zero when holding the revs higher.
Common sources of vacuum leaks on these cars are:
Rocker cover gasket, CCV system and all related pipes, Dipstick O ring, DISA valve O ring, intake boots, all vac hoses, 3 ports at back of inlet manifold (yours will probably have 1 blanked, 1 going to SAP and 1 going to exhaust butterfly gas chamber) etc etc.
I would suggest a smoke test through the inlet and crankcase to find any leaks and fix the relevant gasket/seal/pipe. Remove the SAP and blank it off, my 2001 330i didn't have one from factory and its another source of vacuum leak.
I have gone through all this twice with my 325ti and now with a 330i engine in my 325ti, these drive bloody lovely when working tip top but require lots of tinkering at this age.
VANOS seals are another cheap DIY that improve driveability no end that most people ignore.
Common sources of vacuum leaks on these cars are:
Rocker cover gasket, CCV system and all related pipes, Dipstick O ring, DISA valve O ring, intake boots, all vac hoses, 3 ports at back of inlet manifold (yours will probably have 1 blanked, 1 going to SAP and 1 going to exhaust butterfly gas chamber) etc etc.
I would suggest a smoke test through the inlet and crankcase to find any leaks and fix the relevant gasket/seal/pipe. Remove the SAP and blank it off, my 2001 330i didn't have one from factory and its another source of vacuum leak.
I have gone through all this twice with my 325ti and now with a 330i engine in my 325ti, these drive bloody lovely when working tip top but require lots of tinkering at this age.
VANOS seals are another cheap DIY that improve driveability no end that most people ignore.
craigjm said:
Sell it and buy something decent you tight fisted t
t 
You know since the arrival of the baby I'm even poorer than I was before. t 
PaulGT3 said:
Good advice
Thanks for all that Paul, appreciate it. 
I suppose it's a combo of time and being arsed that puts me off to a certain extent. 3 month baby, I don't necessarily want to be spending every weekend trying to troubleshoot a niggley car (Cue shouts from the audience - why did you buy a 20 year old BMW then!? - good point
).Aluminati said:
Italian tune up on the A12 George. Avoiding Boreham. 
Gave it a bit of grief last night after the check engine light came on again. Honestly, it picks up well and has very good power all the way to the top end.Finally, some progress. 
Quickly just to go back re some points in the previous post.
Sorted a new vacuum line to replace the cracked bit. Thanks Halfords
This are the details of the (Febi Bilstein) DISA value I bought:
As mentioned, neither seemed to improve the situation.
Over the weekend I had the idea of seeing how the car would be with the MAF unplugged. I'd been suspicious about the MAF since the first Check Engine light came after the airbox change. I'd used a decent amount of MAF cleaner on it a while back but it didn't make any difference.
Anyway, MAF unplugged and the car started very cleanly. Idle stable. No pulsing idle when coming to standstill. Basically car was running as I would expect it to.
With the MAF unplugged, I understand the car defaults to preset fuelling maps but will typically run rich. Thought I'd drive it for a few days and see what would happen. The car ran fine and the Check Engine light never came on. This suggested to me that the problem indeed more than likely lay with the MAF.
I read the codes:
Cooling map activation - thermostat as discussed previously.
MAF signal - as expected given it was unplugged.
When the MAF was plugged back in, within a day or so got the same Trim Bank codes and Check Engine light again.
Decided to crack on and get a new MAF. Plenty of cheap crap on eBay for £20. OE BMW is Siemens. I ended up going for an alternative (read slightly cheaper) OEM - Hella.
When I previously installed the MAF (when replacing the boots/DISA), I was never 100% happy with the alignment. Now with the new MAF I decided to dismantle everything and start again.
I came across a thread (on E46fanatics) that suggested most people don't put the lower boot on properly as they don't line up the tab in the specific gap.
I was very careful to orientate the hose in the correct place. I also changed the location of the jubilee clip. Ended up putting it towards the back facing up as you can see here:
In order to access this I bought a special flexible extension fitted with a 6mm socket. First time I tightened it, the socket got stuck and fell off the end (luckily through the gaps and onto the floor) Decided to gaffer tape it to the end to stop that happening again.
Worked really well in the end and got the hose sited properly. Reinstalled everything else. I found some of this stuff really helped to get the hoses on easily
With the lower intake boot in the correct orientation, everything come together much better. New MAF was installed.
Car started and the idle was perfect. Took it for a drive by the end of which I'd expect it to give the 'Trim Bank' codes. Now all I get is:
Car drives great, pulls very well all the way to the red line. It actually now feels faster than my E36 328.
Anyone else feel the temptation to keep old parts...'just in case'.
Fingers crossed this situation is sorted! Luckily I had my motivational mug to keep me going.
Quickly just to go back re some points in the previous post.
Sorted a new vacuum line to replace the cracked bit. Thanks Halfords
This are the details of the (Febi Bilstein) DISA value I bought:
As mentioned, neither seemed to improve the situation.
Over the weekend I had the idea of seeing how the car would be with the MAF unplugged. I'd been suspicious about the MAF since the first Check Engine light came after the airbox change. I'd used a decent amount of MAF cleaner on it a while back but it didn't make any difference.
Anyway, MAF unplugged and the car started very cleanly. Idle stable. No pulsing idle when coming to standstill. Basically car was running as I would expect it to.
With the MAF unplugged, I understand the car defaults to preset fuelling maps but will typically run rich. Thought I'd drive it for a few days and see what would happen. The car ran fine and the Check Engine light never came on. This suggested to me that the problem indeed more than likely lay with the MAF.
I read the codes:
Cooling map activation - thermostat as discussed previously.
MAF signal - as expected given it was unplugged.
When the MAF was plugged back in, within a day or so got the same Trim Bank codes and Check Engine light again.
Decided to crack on and get a new MAF. Plenty of cheap crap on eBay for £20. OE BMW is Siemens. I ended up going for an alternative (read slightly cheaper) OEM - Hella.
When I previously installed the MAF (when replacing the boots/DISA), I was never 100% happy with the alignment. Now with the new MAF I decided to dismantle everything and start again.
I came across a thread (on E46fanatics) that suggested most people don't put the lower boot on properly as they don't line up the tab in the specific gap.
I was very careful to orientate the hose in the correct place. I also changed the location of the jubilee clip. Ended up putting it towards the back facing up as you can see here:
In order to access this I bought a special flexible extension fitted with a 6mm socket. First time I tightened it, the socket got stuck and fell off the end (luckily through the gaps and onto the floor) Decided to gaffer tape it to the end to stop that happening again.
Worked really well in the end and got the hose sited properly. Reinstalled everything else. I found some of this stuff really helped to get the hoses on easily
With the lower intake boot in the correct orientation, everything come together much better. New MAF was installed.
Car started and the idle was perfect. Took it for a drive by the end of which I'd expect it to give the 'Trim Bank' codes. Now all I get is:
Car drives great, pulls very well all the way to the red line. It actually now feels faster than my E36 328.
Anyone else feel the temptation to keep old parts...'just in case'.
Fingers crossed this situation is sorted! Luckily I had my motivational mug to keep me going.
Another thing sorted today.
Ever since I got this car, the parking sensors didn't work. When putting the car into reverse, it'd just do one long beep.
Code reader didn't seem to indicate which sensor(s) was the problem.
Read online about testing the sensors:
- Put the into reverse with the ignition in position 2.
- If working sensors should emit a clicking sound with your ear up against.
On doing this I found that sensor 1&3 didn't work so went about ordering a couple of new ones from eBay.
Luckily to access the sensors on the non Sport coupe is quite straightforward. You just remove the black trim strip (flat blade crew driver to undo the clips) and it pops out.
New eBay specials installed:
When installed, all 4 sensors clicked and there was no long sensor tone when putting into reverse. In fact, there was no tone whatsoever.
Helix402 advised that in fact eBay cheapo sensors don't often work. Taking his advice, bought a couple of second hand OEM BMW items:
Installed:
Success, parking sensors now work fine. Those with OCD will have noticed I now have 2 round sensors and two rectangular ones...but I can live with that
Ever since I got this car, the parking sensors didn't work. When putting the car into reverse, it'd just do one long beep.
Code reader didn't seem to indicate which sensor(s) was the problem.
Read online about testing the sensors:
- Put the into reverse with the ignition in position 2.
- If working sensors should emit a clicking sound with your ear up against.
On doing this I found that sensor 1&3 didn't work so went about ordering a couple of new ones from eBay.
Luckily to access the sensors on the non Sport coupe is quite straightforward. You just remove the black trim strip (flat blade crew driver to undo the clips) and it pops out.
New eBay specials installed:
When installed, all 4 sensors clicked and there was no long sensor tone when putting into reverse. In fact, there was no tone whatsoever.
Helix402 advised that in fact eBay cheapo sensors don't often work. Taking his advice, bought a couple of second hand OEM BMW items:
Installed:
Success, parking sensors now work fine. Those with OCD will have noticed I now have 2 round sensors and two rectangular ones...but I can live with that
Edited by g3org3y on Thursday 23 January 13:23
g3org3y said:
Another thing sorted today.
Ever since I got this car, the parking sensors didn't work. When putting the car into reverse, it'd just do one long beep.
Code reader didn't seem to indicate which sensor(s) was the problem.
Read online about testing the sensors:
- Put the into reverse with the ignition in position 2.
- If working sensors should emit a clicking sound with your ear up against.
On doing this I found that sensor 1&3 didn't work so went about ordering a couple of new ones from eBay.
Luckily to access the sensors on the non Sport coupe is quite straightforward. You just remove the black trim strip (flat blade crew driver to undo the clips) and it pops out.
New eBay specials installed:
When installed, all 4 sensors clicked and there was no long sensor tone when putting into reverse. In fact, there was no tone whatsoever.
Helix402 advised that in fact eBay cheapo sensors don't often work. Taking his advice, bought a couple of second hand OEM BMW items:
Where did you get 2 nd hand ones as I need one too?
Installed:
Success, parking sensors now work fine. Those with OCD will have noticed I now have 2 round sensors and two rectangular ones...but I can live with that
Ever since I got this car, the parking sensors didn't work. When putting the car into reverse, it'd just do one long beep.
Code reader didn't seem to indicate which sensor(s) was the problem.
Read online about testing the sensors:
- Put the into reverse with the ignition in position 2.
- If working sensors should emit a clicking sound with your ear up against.
On doing this I found that sensor 1&3 didn't work so went about ordering a couple of new ones from eBay.
Luckily to access the sensors on the non Sport coupe is quite straightforward. You just remove the black trim strip (flat blade crew driver to undo the clips) and it pops out.
New eBay specials installed:
When installed, all 4 sensors clicked and there was no long sensor tone when putting into reverse. In fact, there was no tone whatsoever.
Helix402 advised that in fact eBay cheapo sensors don't often work. Taking his advice, bought a couple of second hand OEM BMW items:
Where did you get 2 nd hand ones as I need one too?
Installed:
Success, parking sensors now work fine. Those with OCD will have noticed I now have 2 round sensors and two rectangular ones...but I can live with that
Edited by g3org3y on Thursday 23 January 13:23
craigjm said:
A diet? Oh dear
I thought everyone was on a diet in January. Engine seems to be fine. No Check Engine light and everything seems to be running well. ASC/ABS light back on (now more often then not) so need to get that sorted. Out of interest, could different tyre brands (and treadwear) across the front axle cause the sensor to misread?
Last week did home visit on a patient. Unfortunately they live down a private road which resembles those 3rd world dust tracks that are oft seen in Top Gear Specials. Not very sympathetic to the suspension. Next day when braking to a standstill heard a clunk. Sounded like it may have been coming from the rear.
Inspecting the rear ride height:
NS Rear
OS Rear
Looks like the OS is sitting lower. Broken spring perhaps? When I get the chance I'll get it jacked up and see what's what.
Following on from the above, decided it was worth getting a pair of springs. Decided if I was going to do the springs, I might as well do the shocks and the top mounts at the same time.
I found www.autodoc.co.uk to be a really helpful resource with regards to finding the correct part numbers for aftermarket kit.
As I understand it, all coupes came with Sports suspension (S226A). I ended up going for Bilstein B3 (38-233715) and Sachs 556-882. Also bought the BMW 'top mount repair kit'.
As part of the overhaul I needed the various shims and plates, not the kind of things you can buy from ECP. I also wanted the rubber spring holders which sit at the top and bottom of the spring. There was a seller on eBay who did aftermarket items but they were surprisingly expensive.
I found on the BMW website their official parts store: https://shop.bmw.co.uk/bmw-uk-responsive/en_GB/gen...
You're able to search for your car via VIN and identify the parts you need through the same diagrams as RealOEM which is really helpful. You order and they get sent direct for free. It looks like the parts come from the same place (Park Lane) as when you buy OEM BMW parts from the official BMW eBay shop.
MUCH cheaper than a lot of aftermarket places on eBay (for washers, clips, random rubber bits etc).
I found www.autodoc.co.uk to be a really helpful resource with regards to finding the correct part numbers for aftermarket kit.
As I understand it, all coupes came with Sports suspension (S226A). I ended up going for Bilstein B3 (38-233715) and Sachs 556-882. Also bought the BMW 'top mount repair kit'.
As part of the overhaul I needed the various shims and plates, not the kind of things you can buy from ECP. I also wanted the rubber spring holders which sit at the top and bottom of the spring. There was a seller on eBay who did aftermarket items but they were surprisingly expensive.
I found on the BMW website their official parts store: https://shop.bmw.co.uk/bmw-uk-responsive/en_GB/gen...
You're able to search for your car via VIN and identify the parts you need through the same diagrams as RealOEM which is really helpful. You order and they get sent direct for free. It looks like the parts come from the same place (Park Lane) as when you buy OEM BMW parts from the official BMW eBay shop.
MUCH cheaper than a lot of aftermarket places on eBay (for washers, clips, random rubber bits etc).
Got the car jacked up to have a look at the rear suspension. Have to park the car skewed in the garage so I can actually access the driver's side.
Looks like the shocks have been done before with the same Sachs kit:
Original BMW bumpstops still in situ. I wonder if these are the original 20 year old items!
Surprisingly, the springs were actually not too bad. I note the blue stripes
Driver's side:
Passenger side:
Based on that, decided to hold fire for a bit on replacing everything and instead concentrate on the front wheel speed sensor (which I suspected was causing the ASC/ABS light).
Looks like the shocks have been done before with the same Sachs kit:
Original BMW bumpstops still in situ. I wonder if these are the original 20 year old items!
Surprisingly, the springs were actually not too bad. I note the blue stripes
Driver's side:
Passenger side:
Based on that, decided to hold fire for a bit on replacing everything and instead concentrate on the front wheel speed sensor (which I suspected was causing the ASC/ABS light).
I already mentioned on a previous post that when trying to remove the sensor the head of the bolt sheared.
Rather than buying cheapo eBay pattern parts, I try to get decent OE or equivalent parts. Ordered a Bosch wheel speed sensor
And a replacement bolt. I notice BMW have changed the design of this from allen bolt to hex bolt.
Old sensor:
Clearer view of the sheared bolt
Given there is no thread on the sensor itself, I thought it may be possible to prise the sensor off and then hopefully be able to remove the headless bolt once exposed. Unfortunately it was stuck solid. I've soaked it in PlusGas and may give it another go tomorrow but I must admit I don't want to force things too much as I may make the situation a lot worse!
I notice the rear tyres are needing replacement. Seriously unsure whether to make the drop to 225/45 R17s all round. Would be more comfortable and the tyres cheaper, but I must admit I really like the 18 inch MVs. It's one of the classic E46 wheels I associate with the model. Looking at the options, I'll probably go for Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetric.
Rather than buying cheapo eBay pattern parts, I try to get decent OE or equivalent parts. Ordered a Bosch wheel speed sensor
And a replacement bolt. I notice BMW have changed the design of this from allen bolt to hex bolt.
Old sensor:
Clearer view of the sheared bolt
Given there is no thread on the sensor itself, I thought it may be possible to prise the sensor off and then hopefully be able to remove the headless bolt once exposed. Unfortunately it was stuck solid. I've soaked it in PlusGas and may give it another go tomorrow but I must admit I don't want to force things too much as I may make the situation a lot worse!
I notice the rear tyres are needing replacement. Seriously unsure whether to make the drop to 225/45 R17s all round. Would be more comfortable and the tyres cheaper, but I must admit I really like the 18 inch MVs. It's one of the classic E46 wheels I associate with the model. Looking at the options, I'll probably go for Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetric.
Edited by g3org3y on Saturday 30th May 12:06
Edited by g3org3y on Sunday 31st May 06:12
g3org3y said:
Following on from the above, decided it was worth getting a pair of springs. Decided if I was going to do the springs, I might as well do the shocks and the top mounts at the same time.
I found www.autodoc.co.uk to be a really helpful resource with regards to finding the correct part numbers for aftermarket kit.
As I understand it, all coupes came with Sports suspension (S226A). I ended up going for Bilstein B3 (38-233715) and Sachs 556-882. Also bought the BMW 'top mount repair kit'.
As part of the overhaul I needed the various shims and plates, not the kind of things you can buy from ECP. I also wanted the rubber spring holders which sit at the top and bottom of the spring. There was a seller on eBay who did aftermarket items but they were surprisingly expensive.
I found on the BMW website their official parts store: https://shop.bmw.co.uk/bmw-uk-responsive/en_GB/gen...
You're able to search for your car via VIN and identify the parts you need through the same diagrams as RealOEM which is really helpful. You order and they get sent direct for free. It looks like the parts come from the same place (Park Lane) as when you buy OEM BMW parts from the official BMW eBay shop.
MUCH cheaper than a lot of aftermarket places on eBay (for washers, clips, random rubber bits etc).
On the E36 I put the Z3 reinforcement plates in when I swapped the rear shocks. Not sure if that's a worthwhile mod on the E46s but worth checking as it's relatively inexpensive and quick.I found www.autodoc.co.uk to be a really helpful resource with regards to finding the correct part numbers for aftermarket kit.
As I understand it, all coupes came with Sports suspension (S226A). I ended up going for Bilstein B3 (38-233715) and Sachs 556-882. Also bought the BMW 'top mount repair kit'.
As part of the overhaul I needed the various shims and plates, not the kind of things you can buy from ECP. I also wanted the rubber spring holders which sit at the top and bottom of the spring. There was a seller on eBay who did aftermarket items but they were surprisingly expensive.
I found on the BMW website their official parts store: https://shop.bmw.co.uk/bmw-uk-responsive/en_GB/gen...
You're able to search for your car via VIN and identify the parts you need through the same diagrams as RealOEM which is really helpful. You order and they get sent direct for free. It looks like the parts come from the same place (Park Lane) as when you buy OEM BMW parts from the official BMW eBay shop.
MUCH cheaper than a lot of aftermarket places on eBay (for washers, clips, random rubber bits etc).
Finally got round to putting up the TV I'd planned at the end of last year. Decided to put it on the wall between the doors. Makes it more accessible than the original planned location. It's high enough that cars can get in and out the garage with no issues, plus on a swivel bracket so can move it left/right easily.
Works fine. All I needed was a new remote (£4.98 from eBay) and some bolts/plugs etc (<£3). Need to get some long cables (power and HDMI) and will probably have them attached to the wall over the right garage door.
Happy with how it's worked out.
Works fine. All I needed was a new remote (£4.98 from eBay) and some bolts/plugs etc (<£3). Need to get some long cables (power and HDMI) and will probably have them attached to the wall over the right garage door.
Happy with how it's worked out.
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