Another VW Golf Mk2 16v
Discussion
Defintely will check the fuel next. Interesting note on extra advance too! 
I will investigate the WUR as it may be causing another problem...
Yesterday we had one of those "backward" days.
Buoyed by our success on Monday we confidently went out to the car today, plugged in the battery and went to start it. It churned, over and over again, but refused to catch. Looking a bit puzzled we went over everything we had tweaked in case we hadn't put something back together properly. Everything was secure. Checked dizzy, ECU, sensors, connectors, vacuum hoses... everything. Nothing was wrong.
Sat back and thought about it for a moment.
Used the light gun to check for a spark at each of the leads. All working. Popped the dizzy off to look at the insides. All good. Checked the fuel pump and ISV were buzzing as expected. All good. Checked earth straps. All good.
Tried again. Churn, nothing.
Popped off the inlet hoses and checked the engine was sucking air. All good. Has fuel, has spark, has air. Brewed cup of tea and glared at the car for 10 minutes a bit bemused. Popped the spark plugs out and checked for compression. All good. Examined the plugs. They were sooty (but car has only been run at idle). Then we noticed they were damp. Sniff. Petrol.
Engine flooded.
Took the fuel pump relay out and cranked the car over. Eventually it fired, ran for a few seconds and cut out.
Put the fuel pump relay back and and.... magic! Working again.
We went through various procedures, but we now think that a combination of the WUR/5th Injector is overfuelling the car at cold start, flooding the engine. With the 5th injector electrically disconnected everything is peachy, except idling high at 1,200 rpm at present.
Investigations ongoing!
Cheers,
Drew.
I will investigate the WUR as it may be causing another problem...Yesterday we had one of those "backward" days.
Buoyed by our success on Monday we confidently went out to the car today, plugged in the battery and went to start it. It churned, over and over again, but refused to catch. Looking a bit puzzled we went over everything we had tweaked in case we hadn't put something back together properly. Everything was secure. Checked dizzy, ECU, sensors, connectors, vacuum hoses... everything. Nothing was wrong.
Sat back and thought about it for a moment.
Used the light gun to check for a spark at each of the leads. All working. Popped the dizzy off to look at the insides. All good. Checked the fuel pump and ISV were buzzing as expected. All good. Checked earth straps. All good.
Tried again. Churn, nothing.
Popped off the inlet hoses and checked the engine was sucking air. All good. Has fuel, has spark, has air. Brewed cup of tea and glared at the car for 10 minutes a bit bemused. Popped the spark plugs out and checked for compression. All good. Examined the plugs. They were sooty (but car has only been run at idle). Then we noticed they were damp. Sniff. Petrol.
Engine flooded.
Took the fuel pump relay out and cranked the car over. Eventually it fired, ran for a few seconds and cut out.
Put the fuel pump relay back and and.... magic! Working again.
We went through various procedures, but we now think that a combination of the WUR/5th Injector is overfuelling the car at cold start, flooding the engine. With the 5th injector electrically disconnected everything is peachy, except idling high at 1,200 rpm at present.
Investigations ongoing!
Cheers,
Drew.
Edited by drewwa on Wednesday 8th April 10:48
Gallons Per Mile said:
Probably leaky 5th injector. Disconnect it and it might solve the problem completely.
I think you're right. Started up fine this morning without it! DIdn't fancy faffing about with the engine today, so did a few cosmetic bits. New spoiler/splitter and a shiny GTI badge.
Really lifts the front end.
We also need a new 21 relay, as the original is flashing the indicators so slowly that you're wondering if they're ever going to... oh, yes, there they go.
Cheers,
Drew.
So... several steps forward and quite a few back...
New 21 relay arrived for the indicators. Easy job. Indicators flash quickly. Nice. Next up was the LCD for the MFA, which had the infamous 'bleed' problem, but appeared to still be working.
DIsmantled dashboard to get at the MFA (Multi-Function-Actuator?) LCD screen. Fiddly but got there in the end.
Managed, with quite a bit of swearing, to get the dashpod out. Two electrical connections on this early car, with the speedo drive and a vacuum pipe (presumably for the MFA MPG calculation)
With that done, we could start dismantling the pod itself. This was also quite fiddly, with a disconcerting amount of leverage required to remove the tacho needle.
However, using two handy spoons as leverage, we managed it and got to the motherboard underneath, slowly taking it apart to get at the LCD panel itself. This is held in by two weird little rubber supports that somehow also convey the electrical signals to the LCD.
Fitting is the reverse of removal of course.
However, upon plugging the battery back in... it came to life... and even better, the controls for the MFA worked (time, distance, mpg, oil temp etc). The only one that looked a bit odd was the external temperature, the MFA thinks it's -40 outside for some reason.
So, to test that we'd put the tacho needle back in the right place we thought we'd fire up the car.
And.... nothing. Turning over... nothing.
Head scratching ensued once more. Pulled the fuel pump incase we'd flooded it... but no joy. Plugged in the timing lamp to see if we were getting a spark... and no spark. Ok, that explains why it's not running.... but why no spark?
Checked the coil. Good (It's handy having another Golf nearby to swap components over to!
Checked the TCI-H thingy (on top of the ECU). Good.
Traced wires down to the hall sender connector on the dizzy and found this...
An obvious culprit, which looks like it's been waiting to happen for a while. Trick is though - how to fix this? It's broken so close to the plug housing it's impossible to get at.
Plug looks like this from head on. Any suggestions on how to pull these pins out?
Cheers,
Drew.
New 21 relay arrived for the indicators. Easy job. Indicators flash quickly. Nice. Next up was the LCD for the MFA, which had the infamous 'bleed' problem, but appeared to still be working.
DIsmantled dashboard to get at the MFA (Multi-Function-Actuator?) LCD screen. Fiddly but got there in the end.
Managed, with quite a bit of swearing, to get the dashpod out. Two electrical connections on this early car, with the speedo drive and a vacuum pipe (presumably for the MFA MPG calculation)
With that done, we could start dismantling the pod itself. This was also quite fiddly, with a disconcerting amount of leverage required to remove the tacho needle.
However, using two handy spoons as leverage, we managed it and got to the motherboard underneath, slowly taking it apart to get at the LCD panel itself. This is held in by two weird little rubber supports that somehow also convey the electrical signals to the LCD.
Fitting is the reverse of removal of course.
However, upon plugging the battery back in... it came to life... and even better, the controls for the MFA worked (time, distance, mpg, oil temp etc). The only one that looked a bit odd was the external temperature, the MFA thinks it's -40 outside for some reason.
So, to test that we'd put the tacho needle back in the right place we thought we'd fire up the car.
And.... nothing. Turning over... nothing.
Head scratching ensued once more. Pulled the fuel pump incase we'd flooded it... but no joy. Plugged in the timing lamp to see if we were getting a spark... and no spark. Ok, that explains why it's not running.... but why no spark?
Checked the coil. Good (It's handy having another Golf nearby to swap components over to!
Checked the TCI-H thingy (on top of the ECU). Good.
Traced wires down to the hall sender connector on the dizzy and found this...
An obvious culprit, which looks like it's been waiting to happen for a while. Trick is though - how to fix this? It's broken so close to the plug housing it's impossible to get at.
Plug looks like this from head on. Any suggestions on how to pull these pins out?
Cheers,
Drew.
Great fix on the LCD screen!
I think you can take the individual pins out of the multiplug with a special tool - I seem to remember my friend having exactly the same problem with his car that someone posted a pic of further up this thread. I'm sure he bought new pins that clip in to the multiplug so he could solder new wire and then clip it back.
I think you can take the individual pins out of the multiplug with a special tool - I seem to remember my friend having exactly the same problem with his car that someone posted a pic of further up this thread. I'm sure he bought new pins that clip in to the multiplug so he could solder new wire and then clip it back.
Thanks to the top tips above we were able to fix the hall sender wiring, we also found a busted earth so fixed that too.
Quick test of the hall sender followed (Ignition on, main lead to dizzy disconnected, dizzy off and turned by hand to see if you get a spark) - result!
Bolted it all back up and it started! Yes. Fixed a few other bits and pieces, including the rear wiper.
Ran it up to temperature to ensure it was happy and all looks good, the MFA is now working correctly (reading both exterior temp and oil temp). We're not sure if the dash lights are working through, so will pop out later to have a look - difficult to see in the sun.
Other than replacing the front discs we're nearly ready for a run.... ah... well. Yeah...
Pretty pleased with progress now. Will reset the timing and see if we can tweak the CO2 as the engine is hunting a little at idle. We also have a sticky throttle cable to adjust. Otherwise - good to go!
Cheers,
Drew.
Quick test of the hall sender followed (Ignition on, main lead to dizzy disconnected, dizzy off and turned by hand to see if you get a spark) - result!
Bolted it all back up and it started! Yes.
Fixed a few other bits and pieces, including the rear wiper. Ran it up to temperature to ensure it was happy and all looks good, the MFA is now working correctly (reading both exterior temp and oil temp). We're not sure if the dash lights are working through, so will pop out later to have a look - difficult to see in the sun.
Other than replacing the front discs we're nearly ready for a run.... ah... well. Yeah...
Pretty pleased with progress now. Will reset the timing and see if we can tweak the CO2 as the engine is hunting a little at idle. We also have a sticky throttle cable to adjust. Otherwise - good to go!
Cheers,
Drew.
Excellent - my son's Golf needs a new one too, so we'll get a set.
Report on the dashboard illumination - there wasn't any. Pretty sure that was working before we started dicking about with the dashpod, so must have upset something... hopefully won't have to dismantle the dash again...!
Cheers,
Drew.
Report on the dashboard illumination - there wasn't any. Pretty sure that was working before we started dicking about with the dashpod, so must have upset something... hopefully won't have to dismantle the dash again...!
Cheers,
Drew.
Gallons Per Mile said:
Good stuff! Make sure when you change the cable that you set up the idle microswitch correctly (on the throttle body).
I've probably got spare dash bulbs in the garage somewhere. Let me know if you need any and I'll post them to you
Many thanks - much appreciated! I suspect we've dislodged a wire or blown a fuse somewhere as all dash illumination is off at the moment. Will start checking when I have a chance. I've probably got spare dash bulbs in the garage somewhere. Let me know if you need any and I'll post them to you
Cheers,
Drew.
Night time illumination status:
Dashpod - No
Hazard switch - Yes
Rear demister switch - No
Foglight switch - Yes
Heater Controls - No
Dismantled the dash and did some voltage checking. Good news, all circuits are getting power, so it looks like blown bulbs. Virtually all of the buggers.
The dashpod has three - continuity checked them and they're all open circuit. Mystery solved.
There is illumination power to the pod and it seems to be ok with a test LED.
Can't figure out how to dismantle the heater control illumination holder, seems to be very tightly clipped together. The grey plastic bit needs to come out of the black plastic surround to get at the bulb, but I'm missing a technique somehow - clues welcome!
Gallons Per Miles - Have sent you a PM about bulbs!
Cheers,
Drew.
Dashpod - No
Hazard switch - Yes
Rear demister switch - No
Foglight switch - Yes
Heater Controls - No
Dismantled the dash and did some voltage checking. Good news, all circuits are getting power, so it looks like blown bulbs. Virtually all of the buggers.
The dashpod has three - continuity checked them and they're all open circuit. Mystery solved.
There is illumination power to the pod and it seems to be ok with a test LED.
Can't figure out how to dismantle the heater control illumination holder, seems to be very tightly clipped together. The grey plastic bit needs to come out of the black plastic surround to get at the bulb, but I'm missing a technique somehow - clues welcome!
Gallons Per Miles - Have sent you a PM about bulbs!
Cheers,
Drew.
PM back at you! I did think of the LED upgrade, but I'm quite keen on being as standard as poss... getting the 80s driving experience. Not likely to use the car much in the dark to be honest - but I'd like to have everything working... OCD like that!
Today's task, de-fogging the supplementary grille lights. This involved taking the grille out, removing the bulbs and the back plates, then scrubbing with a bottle brush and some window spray before wiping up with some tissue.
Made quite a difference - compare with pics earlier up this page. Funny how some of the simpler jobs are so satisfying.
Cheers,
Drew.
Not likely to use the car much in the dark to be honest - but I'd like to have everything working... OCD like that!Today's task, de-fogging the supplementary grille lights. This involved taking the grille out, removing the bulbs and the back plates, then scrubbing with a bottle brush and some window spray before wiping up with some tissue.
Made quite a difference - compare with pics earlier up this page.
Funny how some of the simpler jobs are so satisfying.Cheers,
Drew.
Edited by drewwa on Friday 24th April 16:11
Thanks to Gallons per mile I received a bunch of OEM bulbs for the Golf - thanks!
Tried to fit them and discovered the holders aren't quite the same as mine... nor are the bulbs.
My Golf has a VDO engined dashpod, perhaps these came from a Motometer variant (which was slightly later on). Either way - not a direct fit. Originals on left, new ones on the right...
Anyway, the bulbs are similar enough to swap, so after a bit of fiddling I managed to extract the bulbs...
And then swap the good bulbs into the old holders...
And plug them into the car. Yes - dash lights work - nice and bright too!
Huge props to Gallons per mile for the help (he sent the bulbs for free) - Fab community.
Cheers,
Drew.
Tried to fit them and discovered the holders aren't quite the same as mine... nor are the bulbs.
My Golf has a VDO engined dashpod, perhaps these came from a Motometer variant (which was slightly later on). Either way - not a direct fit. Originals on left, new ones on the right...
Anyway, the bulbs are similar enough to swap, so after a bit of fiddling I managed to extract the bulbs...
And then swap the good bulbs into the old holders...
And plug them into the car. Yes - dash lights work - nice and bright too!
Huge props to Gallons per mile for the help (he sent the bulbs for free) - Fab community.
Cheers,
Drew.
Edited by drewwa on Thursday 30th April 15:26
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