Discussion
Camaro said:
That shows the wonders of the Youtube algorithms, I've already Subscribed to your channel but not seen any of these updates!
Yeah youtube doesn’t like my content for whatever reason. Latest video was only uploaded yesterday and seems to be doing better at the moment
Thanks for subscribing
Jaffman said:
DodgyGeezer said:
youtube link with [youtube][/youtube] around it and you'll be golden - looks very impressive
[youtube] What Colour is it? - 1UZ V8 Ford Focus - The Flexus Build Episode 73https://youtu.be/OzapFoXtZyY[/youtube]
Try that.
Got told off for posting links last time lol
Think they've relaxed the rules on this now.
Thanks for the encouraging comments, I appreciate it considering the amount of work that’s been put into this car.
I’m well happy with the colour too. It’s not anywhere near finished yet but at least putting the outside together and getting to see the fruits of a fair bit of labour has been worth every second
I can’t stop looking at it lol
I’m well happy with the colour too. It’s not anywhere near finished yet but at least putting the outside together and getting to see the fruits of a fair bit of labour has been worth every second
I can’t stop looking at it lol
3 months again - I swear I don’t do it on purpose, I just get an itch to check up on here to let everyone know how it’s coming along!
Doesn’t look like I’ve done much, but I’ve done loads. It’s acting like a car now instead of something thrown together for a quick video before Christmas
Doesn’t look like I’ve done much, but I’ve done loads. It’s acting like a car now instead of something thrown together for a quick video before Christmas
RobXjcoupe said:
That drivers seat, you need to carefully steam that bolster to plump it up and lose that crease. I was looking for good seats for my own mk1 focus (not as nice as yours)
In the end I just reupholstered what I had. Picture below. Just used original standard seats
Yeah I’ll sort them out at some point. That’s low hanging fruit for a weekend when the car all works though In the end I just reupholstered what I had. Picture below. Just used original standard seats
Jaffman said:
RobXjcoupe said:
That drivers seat, you need to carefully steam that bolster to plump it up and lose that crease. I was looking for good seats for my own mk1 focus (not as nice as yours)
In the end I just reupholstered what I had. Picture below. Just used original standard seats
Yeah I’ll sort them out at some point. That’s low hanging fruit for a weekend when the car all works though In the end I just reupholstered what I had. Picture below. Just used original standard seats
I know, i know, twice in one month, what's wrong with me?
well, i need some help!
first of all, can anyone identify what kind of signal this is...
Its the tacho output from one of the ignitors on the 1uz and I would like to read it with an Arduino so I can work some magic with it.
obviously being the tacho signal it will change with engine revolutions but the above was taken at idle. I don't know if its a PWM signal (unlikely) or just a simple drop to earth every time the ignitor fires. if someone knows how I can read that with an Arduino that will be much help.
Also if anyone knows how J1850PWM CAN protocol used by Ford as part of their SCP in the 90's early 00's before CAN was standardised across manufacturers works id love to pick your brains. I've worked a lot of it out and I can communicate with the dash with varying degrees of success, id just like it to be a little more successful
well, i need some help!
first of all, can anyone identify what kind of signal this is...
Its the tacho output from one of the ignitors on the 1uz and I would like to read it with an Arduino so I can work some magic with it.
obviously being the tacho signal it will change with engine revolutions but the above was taken at idle. I don't know if its a PWM signal (unlikely) or just a simple drop to earth every time the ignitor fires. if someone knows how I can read that with an Arduino that will be much help.
Also if anyone knows how J1850PWM CAN protocol used by Ford as part of their SCP in the 90's early 00's before CAN was standardised across manufacturers works id love to pick your brains. I've worked a lot of it out and I can communicate with the dash with varying degrees of success, id just like it to be a little more successful
*crunches knuckles*....
Right then, lets consult my big load of notes...
Tacho is 4-cylinder type as the 1UZ ign system is in effect two 4 cylinder engines (two ign generations/coils/dizzys), tacho signal is a simple mirror of the coil input. Pretty trivial to work with.
J1850PWM isn't CAN. Or at least it isn't CANBUS (we can argue all day if it is a Controller Area Network) , I've had a play with Mazda ISO 15765-4 CAN but that is trivial as you can buy CAN transceivers. You can use an ELM327 to communicate and they're pretty easy to use to scan data. If you get a USB ELM327 and connect via a serial terminal you can manually set the settings to what you want and just dump all the activity on the bus. Trouble is there that you need a "live" car to do it on and as far as I'm aware you don't have one.... If you have a Focus you can borrow then commands for the ELM327 are here.
https://www.elmelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/...
To read J1850 PWM I'd do this (notes on what the commands do with the # lines
# Reset
AT Z
# Set 115.2kbps
AT PP 0C SV 23
# Turn on 115.2 setting
AT PP 0C ON
# Reset
AT Z
# Disable in-frame responses (not really needed tbh)
AT IFR0
# Monitor all messages
AT MA
Can then play about with looking at the data.
As for writing it the advantage as the J1850 PWM as a 5V bus you can use an arduino easily, disadvantage is you may need to bit bang. I've never tried as CAN is *way* easier.
Right then, lets consult my big load of notes...
Tacho is 4-cylinder type as the 1UZ ign system is in effect two 4 cylinder engines (two ign generations/coils/dizzys), tacho signal is a simple mirror of the coil input. Pretty trivial to work with.
J1850PWM isn't CAN. Or at least it isn't CANBUS (we can argue all day if it is a Controller Area Network) , I've had a play with Mazda ISO 15765-4 CAN but that is trivial as you can buy CAN transceivers. You can use an ELM327 to communicate and they're pretty easy to use to scan data. If you get a USB ELM327 and connect via a serial terminal you can manually set the settings to what you want and just dump all the activity on the bus. Trouble is there that you need a "live" car to do it on and as far as I'm aware you don't have one.... If you have a Focus you can borrow then commands for the ELM327 are here.
https://www.elmelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/...
To read J1850 PWM I'd do this (notes on what the commands do with the # lines
# Reset
AT Z
# Set 115.2kbps
AT PP 0C SV 23
# Turn on 115.2 setting
AT PP 0C ON
# Reset
AT Z
# Disable in-frame responses (not really needed tbh)
AT IFR0
# Monitor all messages
AT MA
Can then play about with looking at the data.
As for writing it the advantage as the J1850 PWM as a 5V bus you can use an arduino easily, disadvantage is you may need to bit bang. I've never tried as CAN is *way* easier.
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