2000 Lexus LS400 - a bit of a bargain (to buy...)
Discussion
I'm no expert, I thought they may be anti-squeal shims but on searching seems they may be anti rattle springs:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124121488949
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124121488949
I'm not sure why there'd be >1 in the pack, but the diagram I've found suggests they're wear sensor clips. Although there's only one wear sensor on the front (driver's side, inner pad) and there was no clip when I took it apart.
It looks like the jury is out on the disc-securing screws but, as Lexus put them there, I'll assume they have a purpose. Part number is 90015-60002, and they're at most a couple of pounds each. Sorting out the passenger side will need to wait until my Man can have a go, but I'll do the driver's side once they arrive.
It looks like the screws are known for shearing, so it's not as bit a deal as I thought it might be, but I'd like to get them replaced.
Quick test drive revealed no immediate squeals. I'll have to wait until the pads have beeded in to get a better idea.
It looks like the jury is out on the disc-securing screws but, as Lexus put them there, I'll assume they have a purpose. Part number is 90015-60002, and they're at most a couple of pounds each. Sorting out the passenger side will need to wait until my Man can have a go, but I'll do the driver's side once they arrive.
It looks like the screws are known for shearing, so it's not as bit a deal as I thought it might be, but I'd like to get them replaced.
Quick test drive revealed no immediate squeals. I'll have to wait until the pads have beeded in to get a better idea.
Hard to tell exactly what the clips are or where they should go... I'd have said they're pad guides, but you'd want 2 for each pad... see https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/LS400-1990-1... ("pad support" there).
The brakes should work fine without the small locating screws because, as you've said, the discs are held well in place by the wheel nuts. Missing the screws does give a chance for a bit of muck to get between the hub and the disc before the wheel is put back on, which will cause the disc to run out of true. However, realistically this is only a problem when fitting new discs... I be amazed if the discs already on there didn't take a fair bit of "persuading" with Ford Special Tool #1 before they'd move away from the hub at all
The brakes should work fine without the small locating screws because, as you've said, the discs are held well in place by the wheel nuts. Missing the screws does give a chance for a bit of muck to get between the hub and the disc before the wheel is put back on, which will cause the disc to run out of true. However, realistically this is only a problem when fitting new discs... I be amazed if the discs already on there didn't take a fair bit of "persuading" with Ford Special Tool #1 before they'd move away from the hub at all
Actually, they moved away from the hub with concerning ease....
Once everything is bolted down they are (or should be) fine, but there's still the potential for the disc to rotate a little before contacting a wheel stud. I'll see what can be done - the first challenge is to get some replacement screws.
Once everything is bolted down they are (or should be) fine, but there's still the potential for the disc to rotate a little before contacting a wheel stud. I'll see what can be done - the first challenge is to get some replacement screws.
You should - they are.
I'm having a bit of a head-scratcher this evening. Just used the car to deliver some face masks to my parents, and had to stop en route for some coolant. Signs were a flowing noise when accelerating sometimes, and no heat from the blower despite the gauge being in about the right place. I stopped ~8 miles in, found the expansion tank was nearly empty, stopped off at a garage and topped up (roughly, because I was parked on a slope and the Low & Full lines are pretty close together). About 750ml in all, so a fair bit down.
Didn't spill much, cleaned up, off down the road with heat coming up nicely.
The car didn't seem to be getting as warm inside on the way as I thought it should. Checked after parking up at home - again, not necessarily completely flat - and the amount I topped up had all gone....
I've topped up again, but that's 750ml disappeared in ~25 miles. Whether spilled or supped, that's a fair bit!
The end of the overflow hose was wet with coolant when I checked, so I've popped the old expansion cap back on in case the new one is somehow the wrong spec. I've got a medical appt to drive for tomorrow, so will have another look while I'm out, but I'm slightly puzzled (or is that worried?).
I thought I noticed a puddle under the car a few days ago, when I was out food shopping. Didn't think much of it at the time, but I wonder what's going on.
I'm having a bit of a head-scratcher this evening. Just used the car to deliver some face masks to my parents, and had to stop en route for some coolant. Signs were a flowing noise when accelerating sometimes, and no heat from the blower despite the gauge being in about the right place. I stopped ~8 miles in, found the expansion tank was nearly empty, stopped off at a garage and topped up (roughly, because I was parked on a slope and the Low & Full lines are pretty close together). About 750ml in all, so a fair bit down.
Didn't spill much, cleaned up, off down the road with heat coming up nicely.
The car didn't seem to be getting as warm inside on the way as I thought it should. Checked after parking up at home - again, not necessarily completely flat - and the amount I topped up had all gone....
I've topped up again, but that's 750ml disappeared in ~25 miles. Whether spilled or supped, that's a fair bit!
The end of the overflow hose was wet with coolant when I checked, so I've popped the old expansion cap back on in case the new one is somehow the wrong spec. I've got a medical appt to drive for tomorrow, so will have another look while I'm out, but I'm slightly puzzled (or is that worried?).
I thought I noticed a puddle under the car a few days ago, when I was out food shopping. Didn't think much of it at the time, but I wonder what's going on.
Edited by Northbrook on Monday 11th May 21:24
That was full last night. Hmm.
The pre-drive wet spot was underneath where (I think) the radiator coolant drain is - about half a forearm length in from the front bumper, about a number plate width from the centreline, on the driver's side.
The post drive spot was a forearm in, on the passenger side a little further out. Level dropped 8mm ish after 8 miles (20 mins driving) and 75 mins.
Both may - probably will - correspond to cutouts in the undertray, rather than being indicative of the leak(s) location.
I guess I'll have to get under the car, get the tray off, and see what I can see. I'll also need to remind myself of process before topping up - check if the overflow hose is wet before topping up. Because the end of the hose was wet again (oo er).
But at least, with the level dropping when not running and marking its territory, it's unlikely to be head gasket. Small mercies.
After gently getting high with the fumes from Dynax S50 while moving my W124, I got the LS400 up in the air. Ish. I was concerned about running off the end of my ramps (through my bike & large stack of timber, into the garage) so didn't quite make it all the way up the ramps, but close enough.
Ironically, I didn't need to bother.
Interestingly, the undertray has an inbuilt nappy, which looks to have been soaking up the coolant and gently releasing it.
Tray should have had 11 x 10mm bolts; mine has 9 plus two cable ties. Close enough!
Oil checked - no mayo. ATF checked - no mayo. Phew.
Air intake removed, underside checked. Some dampness, but all hoses are dry.
But what's this?
The top edge of the join betwixt plastic header and metal radiator has standing water in the crease. Rad has Toyota branding, so might even be the original.
In addition, there are two radiators in parallel (series) - air flows through one (air con?) Then through the main rad. And there's gunk between the two, over and above the factory foam anti-rattle stuff.
Underside is moist, but no drips when the engine is running.
In fact, while the leak is from the header, there are no drips when the engine is running. But there are drips afterward. Odd.
Anyway, it looks like I can get radiator & hoses from Rock Auto for a reasonable cost (Denso & Continental or Gates). Awaiting a response from my Man, and I'll get the stuff ordered up. May as well replace the hoses while the system is empty.
Ironically, I didn't need to bother.
Interestingly, the undertray has an inbuilt nappy, which looks to have been soaking up the coolant and gently releasing it.
Tray should have had 11 x 10mm bolts; mine has 9 plus two cable ties. Close enough!
Oil checked - no mayo. ATF checked - no mayo. Phew.
Air intake removed, underside checked. Some dampness, but all hoses are dry.
But what's this?
The top edge of the join betwixt plastic header and metal radiator has standing water in the crease. Rad has Toyota branding, so might even be the original.
In addition, there are two radiators in parallel (series) - air flows through one (air con?) Then through the main rad. And there's gunk between the two, over and above the factory foam anti-rattle stuff.
Underside is moist, but no drips when the engine is running.
In fact, while the leak is from the header, there are no drips when the engine is running. But there are drips afterward. Odd.
Anyway, it looks like I can get radiator & hoses from Rock Auto for a reasonable cost (Denso & Continental or Gates). Awaiting a response from my Man, and I'll get the stuff ordered up. May as well replace the hoses while the system is empty.
Well, the cooling work has been done. My Man confirmed, last week, that the rad was toast. He sourced a Nissens one in the end. I'd already grabbed a new thermostat.
And a good thing too:
The seal was totally knackered. Doing the thermostat added 10 mins to the job, which apparently was mechanically very easy with everything coming apart nicely, and the inside of the hoses & stat housing being nice and clean. The bleeding of the system was a bit of a bugger, defying the usual techniques, but got there in the end. 2.5 hours billed.
Talking about the job when I picked the car up, he picked up the old rad to demonstrate the ATF cooling tank.... and was rewarded with a handful of black ATF. He thinks it might be original so, subject to me sourcing a new ATF filter, the next job on this car will be a mini-flush of the transmission. A flushette, perhaps.
And a good thing too:
The seal was totally knackered. Doing the thermostat added 10 mins to the job, which apparently was mechanically very easy with everything coming apart nicely, and the inside of the hoses & stat housing being nice and clean. The bleeding of the system was a bit of a bugger, defying the usual techniques, but got there in the end. 2.5 hours billed.
Talking about the job when I picked the car up, he picked up the old rad to demonstrate the ATF cooling tank.... and was rewarded with a handful of black ATF. He thinks it might be original so, subject to me sourcing a new ATF filter, the next job on this car will be a mini-flush of the transmission. A flushette, perhaps.
No.
No.
The next job on this car was to tighten a hose clamp, so as to reduce - or maybe even prevent - the continuing rehoming of coolant to the wider world.
One of those jobs where I wish I'd done it myself days ago, as it was (turned out to be) so straightforward.
The coolant loss was noticeable - about a tank-inch per day - so we organised that I'd take it over this afternoon. And, sure enough, there was sufficient fugitive coolant when I arrived to demonstrate that something was amiss.
Loose clamp on a pipe/hose joint right at the top of the radiator. A turn with a screwdriver, and all was done.
While I was there, we decided on a plan for my W124, and agreed that I should probably buy a new petrol cap for this car, as the pressure equalising isn't happening - the tank takes a deep breath in when opening to fill once on quarter of a tank, and I don't think that's right.
No.
The next job on this car was to tighten a hose clamp, so as to reduce - or maybe even prevent - the continuing rehoming of coolant to the wider world.
One of those jobs where I wish I'd done it myself days ago, as it was (turned out to be) so straightforward.
The coolant loss was noticeable - about a tank-inch per day - so we organised that I'd take it over this afternoon. And, sure enough, there was sufficient fugitive coolant when I arrived to demonstrate that something was amiss.
Loose clamp on a pipe/hose joint right at the top of the radiator. A turn with a screwdriver, and all was done.
While I was there, we decided on a plan for my W124, and agreed that I should probably buy a new petrol cap for this car, as the pressure equalising isn't happening - the tank takes a deep breath in when opening to fill once on quarter of a tank, and I don't think that's right.
Thankfully, not much!
The car ticked over 262,000 miles a few days ago. No mechanical drama since the radiator, aside from a sticky speedo needle.
At some point, the (minor) rust marks will get some attention, at the same time as perhaps a couple of bits of minor paint due to minor scrapes suffered in the last few years. The car is due a cambelt, and the oil needs to be changed (I'm not sure when it was last done). Plus I have nearly-two ATF filters & gaskets - Rock Auto sent one with a mildly-damaged gasket and, when I commented on the gasket, sent me another kit. So the ATF will get done at some point. I'm waiting for my mechanic to catch up on some backlog.
Other than that, the last couple of months' motoring has been unremarkable, but in a good way. I'm just back from ~140 miles, and probably feel more relaxed than when I set off.
Here's the conveyance that's been acting as tender to the barge today - belt drive, 16" wheels, crank-mounted freewheel and all sorts of design oddities, but great fun.
The car ticked over 262,000 miles a few days ago. No mechanical drama since the radiator, aside from a sticky speedo needle.
At some point, the (minor) rust marks will get some attention, at the same time as perhaps a couple of bits of minor paint due to minor scrapes suffered in the last few years. The car is due a cambelt, and the oil needs to be changed (I'm not sure when it was last done). Plus I have nearly-two ATF filters & gaskets - Rock Auto sent one with a mildly-damaged gasket and, when I commented on the gasket, sent me another kit. So the ATF will get done at some point. I'm waiting for my mechanic to catch up on some backlog.
Other than that, the last couple of months' motoring has been unremarkable, but in a good way. I'm just back from ~140 miles, and probably feel more relaxed than when I set off.
Here's the conveyance that's been acting as tender to the barge today - belt drive, 16" wheels, crank-mounted freewheel and all sorts of design oddities, but great fun.
The car continues to run well; no breakdowns to report (yet) but some minor things have happened. In no particular order:
I went to a local independent audio place to ask about getting the aerial fixed. Having not used it in months - because it makes terrible noises when it jams on its way back down - the aerial now won't go up either! Not a significant problem, as I can cope without, but it'll get done at some point. Local place quoted £220ish to supply & fit a decent quality aerial. I'm not sure I'll go down that route.
While there, I also asked about parking sensors. I haven't crunched anything serious but I'd be happy knowing where my ends are and, if SWMBO ends up taking over the car, they'll become fairly essential. Same placed quoted £400ish for rears, £500ish for fronts, fully painted & fitted. I'm sure they'd do a good job, but..... Hmm.
What else?
Well, the auto box has perhaps, maybe, perhaps, shown some small sign of occasional reluctance to change when driving off from cold. At some point, the ATF fluid and filter will be done. Not sure if it'll be done by me or not - I reckon I could do it as long as it remains straight-forward, but I'd be stuck if something doesn't go to plan. My Man is currently working on my W124 so my mechanicking plans are a few months behind. But, hey, global pandemic - it's hardly a big problem.
Buoyed by my success, last weekend, at changing the oil & filter in my daily Skoda Roomster - the 2nd car I've done, and also with a top-mounted filter which makes everything so much easier - I've done the oil & filter in the LS this afternoon.
A few months back I bought some wind-up ramps and today was my first time trying to use them. I rapidly gave up, as I had limited time and no time to faff with them, so jacked up the front passenger side and went at it.
All went fairly smoothly - cheap electric fluid pump down the dipstick tube, 5+ litres of very hot oil out, undertray off, oil filter removed with chain wrench (first time with that, too) new filter on & tightened, then a break for a Zoom call. After that, back into the murk & rain to reinstall the undertray, new oil in and back on its wheels. Probably just over an hour to do, which I'm happy with.
I'm pondering a manual vacuum pump container jobbie as it'd undoubtedly be faster than the cheap & compromised pump I'm using, but it works well enough so I won't bother until next year. I do need to figure out where to offload the old oil, though, as my local tip will only allow 5ltrs per visit and the visits have to be booked a week in advance.
Lastly, the car did sterling service on a week away to Wales last month - 30mpg ish on the runs there and back (roughly half each motorway and twisty A roads, 220 miles each way) and perhaps 23ish on the very twisty roads in southern Snowdonia.
A few pics:
While certainly competent, I did get the impression that the car was a little on the porky side for some of the twistier bits. It managed fine, but something E class size would have been a little easier to thread through.
Lastly, a comparison in passing between this car's 235 55 17s (taken when replacing the spare tyre with a Landsail LS388 to match the rest - yes, probably not the best but I've not had any problems with them thus far) and my W124s 195 65 15.
Off to the New Forest tomorrow - I hope I tightened the new filter enough...
I went to a local independent audio place to ask about getting the aerial fixed. Having not used it in months - because it makes terrible noises when it jams on its way back down - the aerial now won't go up either! Not a significant problem, as I can cope without, but it'll get done at some point. Local place quoted £220ish to supply & fit a decent quality aerial. I'm not sure I'll go down that route.
While there, I also asked about parking sensors. I haven't crunched anything serious but I'd be happy knowing where my ends are and, if SWMBO ends up taking over the car, they'll become fairly essential. Same placed quoted £400ish for rears, £500ish for fronts, fully painted & fitted. I'm sure they'd do a good job, but..... Hmm.
What else?
Well, the auto box has perhaps, maybe, perhaps, shown some small sign of occasional reluctance to change when driving off from cold. At some point, the ATF fluid and filter will be done. Not sure if it'll be done by me or not - I reckon I could do it as long as it remains straight-forward, but I'd be stuck if something doesn't go to plan. My Man is currently working on my W124 so my mechanicking plans are a few months behind. But, hey, global pandemic - it's hardly a big problem.
Buoyed by my success, last weekend, at changing the oil & filter in my daily Skoda Roomster - the 2nd car I've done, and also with a top-mounted filter which makes everything so much easier - I've done the oil & filter in the LS this afternoon.
A few months back I bought some wind-up ramps and today was my first time trying to use them. I rapidly gave up, as I had limited time and no time to faff with them, so jacked up the front passenger side and went at it.
All went fairly smoothly - cheap electric fluid pump down the dipstick tube, 5+ litres of very hot oil out, undertray off, oil filter removed with chain wrench (first time with that, too) new filter on & tightened, then a break for a Zoom call. After that, back into the murk & rain to reinstall the undertray, new oil in and back on its wheels. Probably just over an hour to do, which I'm happy with.
I'm pondering a manual vacuum pump container jobbie as it'd undoubtedly be faster than the cheap & compromised pump I'm using, but it works well enough so I won't bother until next year. I do need to figure out where to offload the old oil, though, as my local tip will only allow 5ltrs per visit and the visits have to be booked a week in advance.
Lastly, the car did sterling service on a week away to Wales last month - 30mpg ish on the runs there and back (roughly half each motorway and twisty A roads, 220 miles each way) and perhaps 23ish on the very twisty roads in southern Snowdonia.
A few pics:
While certainly competent, I did get the impression that the car was a little on the porky side for some of the twistier bits. It managed fine, but something E class size would have been a little easier to thread through.
Lastly, a comparison in passing between this car's 235 55 17s (taken when replacing the spare tyre with a Landsail LS388 to match the rest - yes, probably not the best but I've not had any problems with them thus far) and my W124s 195 65 15.
Off to the New Forest tomorrow - I hope I tightened the new filter enough...
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