My Shed Mk1 Focus Ghia
Discussion
MC Bodge said:
My current 1.5 Ecoboost Mondeo would struggle to do that, without driving at 50mph. In fact, I've turned off the fuel consumption indicator and try not to think about it.
Quite a heavy car the Mondeo, but I do feel these modern small capacity turbos don't deliver on fuel economy. The 1.0 Ecoboost focus I had on hire had to be driven very carefully to get 50+MPG real MPG (the trip computer said 54!) Not really a huge advance when you think about it in 20 years over an old school n/a petrol!!greenarrow said:
MC Bodge said:
My current 1.5 Ecoboost Mondeo would struggle to do that, without driving at 50mph. In fact, I've turned off the fuel consumption indicator and try not to think about it.
Quite a heavy car the Mondeo, but I do feel these modern small capacity turbos don't deliver on fuel economy. The 1.0 Ecoboost focus I had on hire had to be driven very carefully to get 50+MPG real MPG (the trip computer said 54!) Not really a huge advance when you think about it in 20 years over an old school n/a petrol!!The 1.0 Ecoboost is very different to the 1.5, and superior.
The VAG TSI 1.4/5 engines are far better.
hmm..
I've had my head turned this morning by a 2004 Focus Mk1 Zetec 1.6 which has popped up on my Facebay page. Its only done 62,000 miles, has never failed an MOT in its life (no advisories on last 3 MOTs!) and a fully stamped service book. At £875 its at the top end of the price range for Focus Mk1s, but its mighty tempting. Not sure if Mrs GA would agree. Now do I stick with my old car that I know well, or chop it for a slightly newer, lower mileage one. Decisions....decisions... what is clear is that low mileage Mk1s with that kind of MOT history are very rare these days.....
greenarrow said:
hmm..
I've had my head turned this morning by a 2004 Focus Mk1 Zetec 1.6 which has popped up on my Facebay page. Its only done 62,000 miles, has never failed an MOT in its life (no advisories on last 3 MOTs!) and a fully stamped service book. At £875 its at the top end of the price range for Focus Mk1s, but its mighty tempting. Not sure if Mrs GA would agree. Now do I stick with my old car that I know well, or chop it for a slightly newer, lower mileage one. Decisions....decisions... what is clear is that low mileage Mk1s with that kind of MOT history are very rare these days.....
Stick with yours. I've had my head turned this morning by a 2004 Focus Mk1 Zetec 1.6 which has popped up on my Facebay page. Its only done 62,000 miles, has never failed an MOT in its life (no advisories on last 3 MOTs!) and a fully stamped service book. At £875 its at the top end of the price range for Focus Mk1s, but its mighty tempting. Not sure if Mrs GA would agree. Now do I stick with my old car that I know well, or chop it for a slightly newer, lower mileage one. Decisions....decisions... what is clear is that low mileage Mk1s with that kind of MOT history are very rare these days.....
MC Bodge said:
greenarrow said:
hmm..
I've had my head turned this morning by a 2004 Focus Mk1 Zetec 1.6 which has popped up on my Facebay page. Its only done 62,000 miles, has never failed an MOT in its life (no advisories on last 3 MOTs!) and a fully stamped service book. At £875 its at the top end of the price range for Focus Mk1s, but its mighty tempting. Not sure if Mrs GA would agree. Now do I stick with my old car that I know well, or chop it for a slightly newer, lower mileage one. Decisions....decisions... what is clear is that low mileage Mk1s with that kind of MOT history are very rare these days.....
Stick with yours. I've had my head turned this morning by a 2004 Focus Mk1 Zetec 1.6 which has popped up on my Facebay page. Its only done 62,000 miles, has never failed an MOT in its life (no advisories on last 3 MOTs!) and a fully stamped service book. At £875 its at the top end of the price range for Focus Mk1s, but its mighty tempting. Not sure if Mrs GA would agree. Now do I stick with my old car that I know well, or chop it for a slightly newer, lower mileage one. Decisions....decisions... what is clear is that low mileage Mk1s with that kind of MOT history are very rare these days.....
greenarrow said:
MC Bodge said:
greenarrow said:
hmm..
I've had my head turned this morning by a 2004 Focus Mk1 Zetec 1.6 which has popped up on my Facebay page. Its only done 62,000 miles, has never failed an MOT in its life (no advisories on last 3 MOTs!) and a fully stamped service book. At £875 its at the top end of the price range for Focus Mk1s, but its mighty tempting. Not sure if Mrs GA would agree. Now do I stick with my old car that I know well, or chop it for a slightly newer, lower mileage one. Decisions....decisions... what is clear is that low mileage Mk1s with that kind of MOT history are very rare these days.....
Stick with yours. I've had my head turned this morning by a 2004 Focus Mk1 Zetec 1.6 which has popped up on my Facebay page. Its only done 62,000 miles, has never failed an MOT in its life (no advisories on last 3 MOTs!) and a fully stamped service book. At £875 its at the top end of the price range for Focus Mk1s, but its mighty tempting. Not sure if Mrs GA would agree. Now do I stick with my old car that I know well, or chop it for a slightly newer, lower mileage one. Decisions....decisions... what is clear is that low mileage Mk1s with that kind of MOT history are very rare these days.....
I'd change the springs if I wanted Zetec style suspension.
Yep, keep your one. You could spend a lot of effort on another one, that looks lovely on the surface.
I'd be looking to refresh the suspension anyway, if it's to be enjoyed for a few years.
The newer downsized turbo motors aren't a lot better on mpg. But that comes with more torque everywhere, shifting more weight, giving the opportunity to burn more energy.
I'd be looking to refresh the suspension anyway, if it's to be enjoyed for a few years.
The newer downsized turbo motors aren't a lot better on mpg. But that comes with more torque everywhere, shifting more weight, giving the opportunity to burn more energy.
When it comes to shedding, better the car you already have. I'd only swap if you've been over the new car in minute detail to work out if it's actually better than what you currently have. It'll probably cost more in the long run to swap over, depending on the current state of your car, which of course you already know 
I'd stick too, That's 16 year old car versus 20 year old. Not much in it unless the new one has a heated screen that stills works and yours isn't Euro 4.
A colleague had a 1.6 mk1, had done less miles than the one I was driving at the time, he mentioned how much better mine drove and sounded. Mine had regular oil and sparks changed and given some revs and long NSL drives, his was mostly used in the city and driven gently.
Low millage isn't always the holy grail. (Just took my Alfa Gtv to 160002 miles today, the drive train was sweet)
A colleague had a 1.6 mk1, had done less miles than the one I was driving at the time, he mentioned how much better mine drove and sounded. Mine had regular oil and sparks changed and given some revs and long NSL drives, his was mostly used in the city and driven gently.
Low millage isn't always the holy grail. (Just took my Alfa Gtv to 160002 miles today, the drive train was sweet)
I would change your car if you have rust setting in. Then if the slightly newer car is good, body and mechanics make sure you refill the cavities with more wax to make sure no rust for the rest of the ownership. Mentioned before as these cars are old now they do need suspension bushes changed. To say no advisories in the last 3 mots, if there is no proof of maintenance I would say the mot man is missing stuff on a 16 year old car. Anything with a bit of surface rust is duly noted these days on mots and perished rubber bushes. I’m about to change all the suspension components on my 04 estate and that’s on 64k Miles. My 20 year old fiesta has just had new front suspension arms and bushes and that’s only covered 30k from new. Makes a noticeable difference I must say
That Focus sold by 4PM yesterday! It only went on first thing in the morning. Amazed at how fast cars are selling during these Covid times..... It appeared a very genuine car. As I say, it had never failed an MOT, which is almost unheard of on a 16 year old car. There was a stamped history book and accompanying receipts and no advisories since 2017. The MOT history suggested a car where only a thousand miles or so a year were being done, so looked like a car owned by an OAP and garaged.
As for my car, there has yet to be a rust advisory for an MOT, but there is rust on the bottom of one of the rear doors in the usual place and slightly bubbling on inside rear wheel arch. After bought it I did however get my local garage to stick it on a ramp to give it a good once over (I have that sort of relationship with my local indie who give me free checks on my cars!!) and the MOT tester who I know is thorough and does normally point out any surface rust, did not flag anything other than a defective rear brake light...............perhaps rust on inside of arches and bottom of doors does not get flagged on the MOT? So I am hoping it will go through the MOT this year ok and maybe I will move it on before things deteriorate.
As for my car, there has yet to be a rust advisory for an MOT, but there is rust on the bottom of one of the rear doors in the usual place and slightly bubbling on inside rear wheel arch. After bought it I did however get my local garage to stick it on a ramp to give it a good once over (I have that sort of relationship with my local indie who give me free checks on my cars!!) and the MOT tester who I know is thorough and does normally point out any surface rust, did not flag anything other than a defective rear brake light...............perhaps rust on inside of arches and bottom of doors does not get flagged on the MOT? So I am hoping it will go through the MOT this year ok and maybe I will move it on before things deteriorate.
Edited by greenarrow on Wednesday 10th June 10:13
My last mk1 estate I moved it on as the rust had started creeping into the body. It was a smart colour combo. State blue exterior and a mid grey leather interior. When clean it looked fab, the state blue colour was a pearlescent mica rather than a regular metallic paint.
Downside was sill back edges starting to show signs of rust. Rear tailgate had lost most of the sealant keeping the inner and outer panels clinch water tight. I was regularly spraying penetrating oil on it to stop any rust forming. The bonnet underside was exactly the same. As if previous owners where the slamming of doors type.
I bought my current facelift estate as it was low mileage and generally very clean and straight panel wise. I paid the premium price for it but it was only £1800. That was 3 years ago. Mechanically the only failure has been a leaking thermostat housing. That cost more to replace the coolant than a replacement part.
I enjoy the tinkering and keep on top of the maintenance so it’s never a massive surprise. Front brake calipers tend to stick on the rubber slides if the grease has dried up. The actual brake piston gets stuck if not wound in and out once a year regardless of changing discs or pads. 6 groove front discs running in reverse gets rid of road use brake fade using genuine ford pads. Rear disc calipers pad I find stick to the warm disc when parked up and pull bits of pad off when the hand brake is released. Gives the impression of a siezed caliper as the disc shows incomplete wear grooves where the pad is missing. I park up and leave in gear now rather than use the hand brake.
Downside was sill back edges starting to show signs of rust. Rear tailgate had lost most of the sealant keeping the inner and outer panels clinch water tight. I was regularly spraying penetrating oil on it to stop any rust forming. The bonnet underside was exactly the same. As if previous owners where the slamming of doors type.
I bought my current facelift estate as it was low mileage and generally very clean and straight panel wise. I paid the premium price for it but it was only £1800. That was 3 years ago. Mechanically the only failure has been a leaking thermostat housing. That cost more to replace the coolant than a replacement part.
I enjoy the tinkering and keep on top of the maintenance so it’s never a massive surprise. Front brake calipers tend to stick on the rubber slides if the grease has dried up. The actual brake piston gets stuck if not wound in and out once a year regardless of changing discs or pads. 6 groove front discs running in reverse gets rid of road use brake fade using genuine ford pads. Rear disc calipers pad I find stick to the warm disc when parked up and pull bits of pad off when the hand brake is released. Gives the impression of a siezed caliper as the disc shows incomplete wear grooves where the pad is missing. I park up and leave in gear now rather than use the hand brake.
I've appreciated all the comments on my thread.
From my perspective, my car is a cheap as chips shed bought with no history, for bargain basement money. My attitude is that if it dies, I've had 7 months good motoring out of it and I will sell it for scrap, say £150 and its cost me about £400 in depreciation, plus running costs. I don't think its really economically viable to start throwing money at suspension refreshing. I did that on an old Mazda 6 that I owned several years back. Must have spent £500 all in on new front lower arm bushes and front shocks and yes I could tell the difference, but you know what, it didn't really go round corners any faster and at the end of the day I sold the car within a year and got only £400 for it, so I felt I had wasted a lot of money!
My car has some rust, but as far as I know its not major and again, I'll just keep running the car and get shot of it, if there are advisories on the next MOT. The joy of bangernomics, is that you can just move a car on and find another one whenever you want.
For now, I am enjoying carefree motoring with an old but enormously rewarding and enjoyable car; but I keep reading the classifieds and when I get bored or something comes up that I think could be better value than what I have, I will simply move on! Viva La Shed Focus!!
From my perspective, my car is a cheap as chips shed bought with no history, for bargain basement money. My attitude is that if it dies, I've had 7 months good motoring out of it and I will sell it for scrap, say £150 and its cost me about £400 in depreciation, plus running costs. I don't think its really economically viable to start throwing money at suspension refreshing. I did that on an old Mazda 6 that I owned several years back. Must have spent £500 all in on new front lower arm bushes and front shocks and yes I could tell the difference, but you know what, it didn't really go round corners any faster and at the end of the day I sold the car within a year and got only £400 for it, so I felt I had wasted a lot of money!
My car has some rust, but as far as I know its not major and again, I'll just keep running the car and get shot of it, if there are advisories on the next MOT. The joy of bangernomics, is that you can just move a car on and find another one whenever you want.
For now, I am enjoying carefree motoring with an old but enormously rewarding and enjoyable car; but I keep reading the classifieds and when I get bored or something comes up that I think could be better value than what I have, I will simply move on! Viva La Shed Focus!!
I've been planning to move my mk1 on for years but starting to consider keeping it till next year, the MOT extension means it's not due till October. It flew through last year's MOT without any advisories and my mechanic said thats a keeper lol If it goes through again this year I think it deserves to be kept on!
Question on rust prevention- is it even possible with these cars and if so, would it require significant financial outlay? Everything else to an extent is within my control, had the coolant housing replaced and belts+spark plugs done last year but every year I have that niggle at MOT time about rust rearing it's rusty head!
Question on rust prevention- is it even possible with these cars and if so, would it require significant financial outlay? Everything else to an extent is within my control, had the coolant housing replaced and belts+spark plugs done last year but every year I have that niggle at MOT time about rust rearing it's rusty head!
VR99 said:
I've been planning to move my mk1 on for years but starting to consider keeping it till next year, the MOT extension means it's not due till October. It flew through last year's MOT without any advisories and my mechanic said thats a keeper lol If it goes through again this year I think it deserves to be kept on!
Question on rust prevention- is it even possible with these cars and if so, would it require significant financial outlay? Everything else to an extent is within my control, had the coolant housing replaced and belts+spark plugs done last year but every year I have that niggle at MOT time about rust rearing it's rusty head!
All cars rust from the inside out. It’s a mater of how quick. It can be slowed down though hence galvanised panel, seams sealed, cavity wax. Also if used during salt on the roads time any metal on show via chips and scraps will oxide quicker as being just steel isn’t its stable form. Firstly to prevent rust you have to be honest and look at what you have. Any cheap crash repairs, do you clean the underside thoroughly during the winter road salt, do you store the car in a damp place. Question on rust prevention- is it even possible with these cars and if so, would it require significant financial outlay? Everything else to an extent is within my control, had the coolant housing replaced and belts+spark plugs done last year but every year I have that niggle at MOT time about rust rearing it's rusty head!
If you have a good body on your car you need to take parts off. Bumpers off for starters. Headlights, rear lights, exhaust pipes, heat shields, Interior door cards off, boot trim off. This gives access to body cavities so you can visually see where your rust is forming already. It will need treating and resealing before any new wax or paint goes on. Also even before that, especially the underside a steam clean in all nooks and crannies as salt will be hiding there. You don’t want to seal the salt in.
I would say if you did all yourself it’s just time. Products wouldn’t be that much it’s the time and preparation you put in.
It applies to any machine/car if well maintained and repaired accordingly it will last a long time.
RobXjcoupe said:
VR99 said:
I've been planning to move my mk1 on for years but starting to consider keeping it till next year, the MOT extension means it's not due till October. It flew through last year's MOT without any advisories and my mechanic said thats a keeper lol If it goes through again this year I think it deserves to be kept on!
Question on rust prevention- is it even possible with these cars and if so, would it require significant financial outlay? Everything else to an extent is within my control, had the coolant housing replaced and belts+spark plugs done last year but every year I have that niggle at MOT time about rust rearing it's rusty head!
All cars rust from the inside out. It’s a mater of how quick. It can be slowed down though hence galvanised panel, seams sealed, cavity wax. Also if used during salt on the roads time any metal on show via chips and scraps will oxide quicker as being just steel isn’t its stable form. Firstly to prevent rust you have to be honest and look at what you have. Any cheap crash repairs, do you clean the underside thoroughly during the winter road salt, do you store the car in a damp place. Question on rust prevention- is it even possible with these cars and if so, would it require significant financial outlay? Everything else to an extent is within my control, had the coolant housing replaced and belts+spark plugs done last year but every year I have that niggle at MOT time about rust rearing it's rusty head!
If you have a good body on your car you need to take parts off. Bumpers off for starters. Headlights, rear lights, exhaust pipes, heat shields, Interior door cards off, boot trim off. This gives access to body cavities so you can visually see where your rust is forming already. It will need treating and resealing before any new wax or paint goes on. Also even before that, especially the underside a steam clean in all nooks and crannies as salt will be hiding there. You don’t want to seal the salt in.
I would say if you did all yourself it’s just time. Products wouldn’t be that much it’s the time and preparation you put in.
It applies to any machine/car if well maintained and repaired accordingly it will last a long time.
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